maxinout93

I was replacing my front sway bar end links Yesterday. I bought a rebuild kit from Advance auto parts for like $7.99. The rebuild kit was a MOOG brand, and it came with 2 bushings, 2 washers, and 2 screws. I got the driverside end link off and back on with no problems. Then I purchased the passenger side rebuild kit. I had so much trouble with this side, what I thought was going to be a 20 minute job, turned into a 3 hour job on just the passenger side endlink. If I put the top part in to the sway bar, there is not enough clearance for me to put the bottom screw on to the part that connects the sway bar to the control arm! Then if I start off at the bottom, then it becomes difficult to put the top of the end link into the sway bar connection, so I tried to unbolt the whole thing except for the driverside link. I got both endlinks connected, but the four middle screws that bolt the middle of the sway bar bushings were sitting to low for me to bolt them back togather. I had to undo the passenger side endlink in order for the 2 middle bushings to be bolted up completely, I got so Frustrated that I didnt even bother to try and put the new bushings on the endlink on the passenger side, until I figure out a different method, Now I am driving with just the driver side endlink bolted on, and the passenger side with no bushings, unless I figure out how to do it right! PLease help!

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

unbolt both endlinks drivers and passengers you can control it better! Loosely install one side at a time then tighten everything down!

maxinout93

Thanks I will try this method today!

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

are you sure your control arm bushings are good and not causing the arm to be misaligned thereby causing the sway bar link to be misaligned

maxinout93

Well I know for a fact that the passenger side control arm bushings are shot, there is power steering fluid leaking all over that side of the car, and I have yet to fix that problem. But I did manage to get the sway bar bushings in on both sides today after taking CMax03's advice. I will be taking her out on a test drive to see if I notice any changes. thanks again!

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

fix the leak first, then do the bushings, otherwise the bushings will absorb the fluid and get soft.

if you are lucky, it's just the crush washers on the banjo bolt on the passenger side strut tower. you would be able to see fluid leaking from that area if that's where it's all coming from. other possibilities are crush washers on the pump area itself, or leaking hoses.

manique

Installed both sway bar links a few days ago.
Now car makes a 'clicking' noise when going over bumps.
Different noise than a loose or broken link.
What could I have done wrong? What else could it be?
Suggestions?

94se5spd

iTrader: (2)

A click or a thud? If it sounds like a metal on metal thud its more likely the control arm bushings.

shiloh51933

iTrader: (5)

You might want 2 take a look at lower ball joints now or your CV joint.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

loose upper strut mount nut could do that too.

maxinout93

I think I have a bad strut mount on the passenger side, and also a bad control arm bushing. I seem to have fixed the powersteering leak with a new PS return hose. But now my crank shaft oil seal is starting to leave small spots of oil under that side of the car and also kinda coating everything in that area( cv boots, drive pulleys ect) is there any way to slow the leaking seal until I can afford to get one installed, and install a new timing belt/ waterpump and thermostat? The car runs fine but I just changed the oil after it sat for 6 months. I changed an injector, but never bothered that side of the engine except for installing a thermostat, and changing the A/C belt. It looks like there;s not enough room to do anything there. By the way the car is a 93 GXE and has 229,000 miles.