VE timing chain info

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12-06-2009, 08:42 PM

#41

JC93SE

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Lapajgo

Where did you buy and how much was the VTC kit. Do you know good deals on it ?

I bought new VTCs from nissanparts.org.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lapajgo

Considering how much one of the peaces was eaten out - i guess it was broken off for a "quite" a while, I wonder if the knocking was the chain eating it.

No. The piece was "eaten" likely by being stationary and the friction of everything that was still moving. If the chain "ate" anything, we'd be having a different conversation.

12-06-2009, 10:45 PM

#42

Lapajgo

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Nope nothing there, it doesn't let me chose anything older year 2001. How long ago did u buy it ?

12-07-2009, 12:32 PM

#43

wpendl1

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I got mine from a local dealer at employee priceing, about $50 each. The whole unit (VTC) was $150 my price.
I finally got the engine back together and fired it up. I still have a slight VTC noise. It goes away when I ground the solinoid. So... with the results I received by rebuilding mine, I'd recomend you just buy a whole new unit. The rebuild kit comes with a new spring, new oring, new seal, and new end cap. There are other instructions around including a TSB on how to rebuild them.

I second what JC is saying, count yourself lucky there was no further damage to the timming chain system.

12-07-2009, 12:37 PM

#44

wpendl1

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Lapajgo

Nope nothing there, it doesn't let me chose anything older year 2001. How long ago did u buy it ?

You clicked on Nissan Pars & Accessories. Below that click on Replacement parts.
It will help if you call the dealer and get the part number, or do a search for the part number here and then plug it in to the nissanparts.org.

12-07-2009, 12:41 PM

#45

wpendl1

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Ah, what the heck... Here is a thread that will show you pictures of the kit, as well as give you part numbers.
http://forums.maxima.org/1st-3rd-gen...ensioners.html

And here is the rebuild kit on nissanparts.org:
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...gOEM&siteid=49
Dang, they are getting cheaper.

12-07-2009, 08:35 PM

#46

Lapajgo

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Quick question, do I have put lifters in the same places ? I want to clean them, but I don't wanna do it one by one.

Last edited by Lapajgo; 12-07-2009 at 10:01 PM.

12-07-2009, 09:17 PM

#47

mszilves

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Quote:

Originally Posted by wpendl1

My head tells me to ignore the chain marks since they won't line up again after the first revolution but I am torn as to why would the instructions say to use the chain if it is wrong. Also note that the instructions say 12 rollers between cam marks, I have to decrease it to 11 rollers to get the marks to line up.

Don't worry about the marks lining up with the cam caps, as long as the timing marks (dots) on the sprockets line up with the silver links, and you have 12 rollers in between them (like you do as stated by the FSM), that is the proper timing. This can all be avoided though by marking the chains before you take off the old VTC sprockets. I replaced both VTC's this past spring, and since I didn't mark it properly when I did it, I had to go through a similar process, but got the same result: timing marks lined up with silver links and 12 links in between. Engine runs quiet and strong!

As to the silver links lining up with the sprocket marks (dots), they will only line up every few revolutions (can't remember exact number), so if you keep turning the crank, they will line up again at some point.

Last edited by mszilves; 12-07-2009 at 09:20 PM.

12-08-2009, 08:21 AM

#48

wpendl1

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I could have used that reasurance last week!

This is what I ended up doing. The engine runs so much better! Nice and strong. And the process started the same way as it did for you. Took the VTCs off without making marks. I saw the marks on the cam and I assumed they lined up with the arrows. Then I couldn't get the cams to line up with the arrows like I thought during re-assymbly. I guess I'm to used to timing belts where they have timing marks that line up.

12-08-2009, 04:05 PM

#49

JC93SE

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Quote:

Originally Posted by wpendl1

I guess I'm to used to timing belts where they have timing marks that line up.

The timing marks on the VG don't exactly line up either- you use the marks on the new belt.

12-08-2009, 04:36 PM

#50

maximo018

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if someone wouldn't mind refreshing me as to where the piston is 120 degrees before TDC I would appreciate the info. Lined up all chains and marks just want to make sure that the bottom end is in sync with the top end.

12-09-2009, 10:37 AM

#51

JC93SE

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Quote:

Originally Posted by maximo018

Not sure what you're asking. If the marks on the gears line up with the correct links on the chains- that's "in sync".

No. 1 at 120 deg btdc just gets the pistons all down enough in their holes so that there's no valve contact when you put heads/cams back on until you can get everything buttoned down and get the cams where they need to be.

12-09-2009, 12:19 PM

#52

wpendl1

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To ensure bottom end sync with top end, you use the crang timing mark at TDC. The only reason the instruction reference 120 BTDC is that is where you want to put the chain on for the rear cams. At 120 BTDC like JC said, the pistons are not all the way up as to not cause interferance, and none of the rear valves are depressed which takes the presure off of the cams.

With the Crank at TDC #1 and #4 piston should be all the way up (highest point in travel). The cams marks willl only line up every other revolution at TDC. The cams rotate 1/2 the speed as the Crankshaft.

12-09-2009, 07:43 PM

#53

Lapajgo

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Anybody have experience with changing valve seals w/o thaking the heads off of a VE30DE ?

And do you think I should put the lifters exactly on the same spots I took em off - after I clean them with parts cleaner ?

12-09-2009, 08:37 PM

#54

maximo018

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Quote:

Originally Posted by wpendl1

I appreciate it. I sat down a lil while after writing that and drew out a lil diagram to help me understand it a lil better. After all I didn't line up the chain marks since all they did was just help set timing. Could of helped but I was just out to prove that I could still do it without lining them up. Hey they are the same as the rest of the other links.

12-09-2009, 08:41 PM

#55

maximo018

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Lapajgo

It would be easier if you took them off. Plus you could check to see if theres any other problems or future issues.

12-09-2009, 08:44 PM

#56

CMax03

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The crank is set 120 degrees BTDC so that the slack of the chain is taken out while turning and applying pressure to the tensioners and the marks should be aligned to thier perspective points

12-09-2009, 09:44 PM

#57

JC93SE

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Quote:

Originally Posted by CMax03

The crank is set 120 degrees BTDC so that the slack of the chain is taken out while turning and applying pressure to the tensioners and the marks should be aligned to thier perspective points

1993 Nissan Maxima Service Manual, Page EM-60, Item 17.:
" Turn crankshaft until No. 1 piston is set at approximately 120 deg. before T.D.C. on compression stroke to prevent interference of valves and pistons." This is before #18 that says "Install Cylinder heads...". By the book, the cams are then installed and positioned, the rear VTC, rear sprocket (with chain understood) and rear tensioner. #24 says turn crank to TDC, then the front gets done in further steps.

The tensioners take up any slack in the chain when they're installed, and I'm not sure what you mean "applying pressure to the tensioners".

12-09-2009, 11:56 PM

#58

maximo018

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Yeah because when you unhook the latch for the tensioner it engages. But I think what CMax03 is talking about is when oil is pumped up to the tensioner they stiffen up even more. But I'm not sure if so or not that difference is a tooth on the sprocket or not. I doubt it.

12-11-2009, 03:16 PM

#59

Lapajgo

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Just changed one valve seal w/o removing the head, BUT it's such a hassle with the tool I have from Autozone - anyone have good advice for spring compressor that is easy to use in VE30DE ?

12-13-2009, 08:53 PM

#60

wpendl1

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Lapajgo

Just changed one valve seal w/o removing the head, BUT it's such a hassle with the tool I have from Autozone - anyone have good advice for spring compressor that is easy to use in VE30DE ?

I have both head gaskets, and all three IM gaskets I'll sell you cheap. All are from Nissan. $65 + shipping for all of them.

There is a way to use an air compressor to put pressure in the cylinder to hold up the valves while you pull the springs off to replace the seals, but you probably already know this since you've done one already.

01-08-2010, 11:29 AM

#61

Lapajgo

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Hey guys I just put the the car together after rebuilding everything even the heads and I'll put pictures later, but I have a question:

Is it normal for the car to run like a DRAGSTER under 3000 RPMs if the VTC solenoids are disconnected ? Do I have to reopen the engine and re-do the timing or it's just that the VTC are not on.

The connectors of the VTC solenoids are in bad shape and probably I have to REPLACE them. (I don't think they make any connection when I connect them)

01-10-2010, 12:36 AM

#62

Lapajgo

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Rebuild work:
$22 - Parts cleaner solvent
$65 - Full gasket set
$60 - VTC spring kits, 23 each + S&H
$53 - VTC, Chain tensioner and Knock sensor from junkyard
$13 - main front seal
$7 - Power steering fluid
$7 - Vacuum hoses
$4 - gasket RTV (for oil sealing)
$3 - water pump RTV (for water sealing)
$4 - valve polishing compound
$1 - plumber T-shaped adapter - for aiding the valve spring compressor

-Knock sensor - from junkyard from a 97 Maxima(they are all the same) - when I removed the old KS it crumbled in my fingers. Looks like WASHING THE ENGINE cracks the plastic, a lot of water collects there and I had to scrape half an Inch of RUST !!!
-Vacuum hoses - new
-Valve cover gaskets - new
-Plenum, intake, throttle body gaskets - new
-PCV valve - cleaned
-Lifters - cleaned (like new)
-Chain tensioners - cleaned (with parts cleaner - one was in good shape, one got from the junkyard pretty good shape)
-VTC - one in good shape, one from the junkyard - both look like brand new from the dealership. Cleaned and Changed the spring/seal/cap anyway, just in case.
-Valve seals - new
-Head gaskets - new
-Exhaust gaskets - new
-Main front seal - new
-Alternator - cleaned
-Power steering pump - new (they looks like they degrade easily)

Last edited by Lapajgo; 01-10-2010 at 12:52 AM.

01-10-2010, 12:49 AM

#63

Lapajgo

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01-10-2010, 12:56 AM

#64

Lapajgo

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Anybody ?

I finally put the car together and there is this ONE thing still holding it on the stands.

01-14-2010, 04:05 PM

#65

wpendl1

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What do you mean run like a dragster??? When the car is idling, the VTC solinoids are not "on". So they are in the same state as if you didn't have them connected. Under load, at about 2500RPMs, the soiliniods are supplied with ground and activated. This allows them to be presurized by oil and advance the Intake cam by about 10 degrees.
So to answer your question, no, having the VTC solinoids disconected would not effect the normal operation of the engine at idle, or even below the aprox 2500 rpms. Under load and in the higher rpms the engine would run as if it were retarded, literally. So it would be slower to rev.

I haven't looked at the pictures yes, but sounds like you did the right thing by replaceing the knock sensor. Did this resolve your VTC noise? When I rebuilt mine it did not. So I have just grounded mine, I'm not ready to put another $300 into the car to replace the VTCs with new ones.