My 3rd gen is coming alive again!!
05-13-2010, 04:50 AM
#81
. It's super white and super clean too.
Last edited by Augustus Maximus; 05-13-2010 at 04:53 AM.
05-16-2010, 05:50 PM
#82
Please. Call me John. I insist
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Well, today I went to the JY and got my quarter panel and rocker panel 
and sometime this week I'm having this guy that works out of his garage look at the Max. He's done a lot of work for the local B13-14 guys and saw some of his work today and was truly impressed with his work.
Yo I got your shoe! it was actually still there so I brought it home, pics coming soon
and sometime this week I'm having this guy that works out of his garage look at the Max. He's done a lot of work for the local B13-14 guys and saw some of his work today and was truly impressed with his work. Yo I got your shoe! it was actually still there so I brought it home, pics coming soon
05-17-2010, 01:43 AM
#84
Please. Call me John. I insist
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We didn't have enough time or battery to get both quarter panels but at least I'm one step closer to getting my rust taken care of =] I definitely wait to have my 3rd gen looking mint, if only it were a 5spd but I've been driving it nearly everyday lately and I just totally missed the ride. I can be doing 120 and the damn thing feels so solid and as if I were doing 65! My 4th gen definitely feels scary past 100 lol
mmm hmm look at that shoe
mmm hmm look at that shoe
stupid perks.
05-17-2010, 10:55 AM
#87
05-17-2010, 10:58 AM
#88
Pardon me for being a noob but the next step is to weld it on his car right?
It just that that area is where I have damage from a fool that did a hit and run from me. I thought it would be the easier way to fix it if it was a "panel."
I just let a shop do it for me
It just that that area is where I have damage from a fool that did a hit and run from me. I thought it would be the easier way to fix it if it was a "panel."
I just let a shop do it for me
05-17-2010, 08:14 PM
#89
Please. Call me John. I insist
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I got it from the junk yard I used to work at back in 2008 and my buddy was the one who cut it for me. All I had to do was give buy him blades for his Milwaukee Sawzall (reciprocating saw) I'm also helping him swap his trans on Express 2500 van for helping me with this.
Correct, the next step would be to pull all the trim, windshield, door, tail light, bumper cover and reinforcement and cut out the portion on my car that I'm replacing. If any rust is behind all that, treat it and weld the new piece on. Once there is zero rust or body damages, I will have my car painted
As far as there being an easier way... I'm sure there is. Depending on the damage, you can probably get the dent popped and filled up with bondo but IMO, thats just covering up the ugly truth.
As far as there being an easier way... I'm sure there is. Depending on the damage, you can probably get the dent popped and filled up with bondo but IMO, thats just covering up the ugly truth.
05-18-2010, 07:42 PM
#92
you gonna cut it at the spot welds and put it on that way right? Eastwood makes some good spot weld cutters. You don't want to cut and butt weld splice that thing together (well except for the C pillar).
Also when you get the other side, cut the quarter a little higher. Its easier to mate up the smaller section of the c pillar (also less to warp). You will need to buy some seam sealer as well.
I speak from experience since I have replaced 3 (or is it 4...cant remember lol) quarters on 3rd gens.
Also when you get the other side, cut the quarter a little higher. Its easier to mate up the smaller section of the c pillar (also less to warp). You will need to buy some seam sealer as well.
I speak from experience since I have replaced 3 (or is it 4...cant remember lol) quarters on 3rd gens.
05-18-2010, 08:05 PM
#93
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Naperville, IL
Posts: 287
Damn man...I read this thread back when I first got my 3rd gen and didnt even realize you were in my backyard! I F-ing hate rust. May I ask...how much is all this costing you? And how much of it is taken care of via hookups? lol. I need your connections
05-19-2010, 02:16 AM
#94
Please. Call me John. I insist
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you gonna cut it at the spot welds and put it on that way right? Eastwood makes some good spot weld cutters. You don't want to cut and butt weld splice that thing together (well except for the C pillar).
Also when you get the other side, cut the quarter a little higher. Its easier to mate up the smaller section of the c pillar (also less to warp). You will need to buy some seam sealer as well.
I speak from experience since I have replaced 3 (or is it 4...cant remember lol) quarters on 3rd gens.
Also when you get the other side, cut the quarter a little higher. Its easier to mate up the smaller section of the c pillar (also less to warp). You will need to buy some seam sealer as well.
I speak from experience since I have replaced 3 (or is it 4...cant remember lol) quarters on 3rd gens.
I'm not sure how its getting installed since I'm considering having a pro install it. You wanna do it for me Mike?
Last edited by ColombianMax; 05-19-2010 at 02:38 AM.
05-19-2010, 03:59 AM
#95
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Naperville, IL
Posts: 287
Oh..so you dont know how much $$ its gonna cost to do the install yet? You got the strut towers done pretty dang cheap. And so far pretty cheap for parts. The max is in good hands...not too many people would go through this much to fix her up. Good job man. I wish I would have had the time and $$ to fix up my 3rd gen but once the trans went, it just seemed like a colossal undertaking that I just couldnt get rolling.
I want to see it when its done!
I want to see it when its done!
05-19-2010, 10:21 AM
#96
Please. Call me John. I insist
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Oh..so you dont know how much $$ its gonna cost to do the install yet? You got the strut towers done pretty dang cheap. And so far pretty cheap for parts. The max is in good hands...not too many people would go through this much to fix her up. Good job man. I wish I would have had the time and $$ to fix up my 3rd gen but once the trans went, it just seemed like a colossal undertaking that I just couldnt get rolling.
I want to see it when its done!
I want to see it when its done!
The friend who helped me with the strut tower says he's not really comfortable doing QPs because of all the prettiness required and aligning it properly and he just doesn't wanna have to deal with it I guess.
I've got someone who will be looking at it and giving me a price soon but for now I'm happy at least I have the part... I'm a lot closer than I was 1 month ago.
05-19-2010, 05:42 PM
#98
actually the quarter panel is really easy to install...there really is not much to align.
you follow all the seams and find all the spot welds (will be little indentions). Get a spot weld cutter and cut them out. Put the new panel on and it will pretty much align itself. The spot welds should be in about the same place and everything is done at a seam which makes it so easy to align.
Then you just weld up the holes where the spot welds were. The spot weld cutter will cut out the top of the spot weld but leave it underneath for you to weld to.
The only difficult thing is the C pillar. Getting it aligned and welded without warping it.
I am too far away from you to do it or I would definitely help you or have you help me.
You will pay a LOT for a shop to do it though. The back glass has to come out (so you have to figure that in the price).
I will see if I can dig up pics of when I did one of mine. Maybe it shows the spot welds etc.
you follow all the seams and find all the spot welds (will be little indentions). Get a spot weld cutter and cut them out. Put the new panel on and it will pretty much align itself. The spot welds should be in about the same place and everything is done at a seam which makes it so easy to align.
Then you just weld up the holes where the spot welds were. The spot weld cutter will cut out the top of the spot weld but leave it underneath for you to weld to.
The only difficult thing is the C pillar. Getting it aligned and welded without warping it.
I am too far away from you to do it or I would definitely help you or have you help me.
You will pay a LOT for a shop to do it though. The back glass has to come out (so you have to figure that in the price).
I will see if I can dig up pics of when I did one of mine. Maybe it shows the spot welds etc.
05-19-2010, 06:26 PM
#99
Please. Call me John. I insist
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago
Posts: 4,949
actually the quarter panel is really easy to install...there really is not much to align.
you follow all the seams and find all the spot welds (will be little indentions). Get a spot weld cutter and cut them out. Put the new panel on and it will pretty much align itself. The spot welds should be in about the same place and everything is done at a seam which makes it so easy to align.
Then you just weld up the holes where the spot welds were. The spot weld cutter will cut out the top of the spot weld but leave it underneath for you to weld to.
The only difficult thing is the C pillar. Getting it aligned and welded without warping it.
I am too far away from you to do it or I would definitely help you or have you help me.
You will pay a LOT for a shop to do it though. The back glass has to come out (so you have to figure that in the price).
I will see if I can dig up pics of when I did one of mine. Maybe it shows the spot welds etc.
you follow all the seams and find all the spot welds (will be little indentions). Get a spot weld cutter and cut them out. Put the new panel on and it will pretty much align itself. The spot welds should be in about the same place and everything is done at a seam which makes it so easy to align.
Then you just weld up the holes where the spot welds were. The spot weld cutter will cut out the top of the spot weld but leave it underneath for you to weld to.
The only difficult thing is the C pillar. Getting it aligned and welded without warping it.
I am too far away from you to do it or I would definitely help you or have you help me.
You will pay a LOT for a shop to do it though. The back glass has to come out (so you have to figure that in the price).
I will see if I can dig up pics of when I did one of mine. Maybe it shows the spot welds etc.
Kool, I'll take a look and study the area to see where the spot welds are and try to figure it out. As far as the glass coming out shouldn't be an issue as I believe I still have a "hook up" with a glass place that would buy all their glass from the JY I worked for
Thank you sir!
05-19-2010, 09:32 PM
#100
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Naperville, IL
Posts: 287
Well since you stole my bike and all...I figure why not just give you more...Michael should fly out here, stay with you a while, help with the body work and I can help too to learn how to do it. Ill throw a few bucks in to get a plane ticket
05-19-2010, 09:58 PM
#101
I miss my VE
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 2,553
Kool, I'll take a look and study the area to see where the spot welds are and try to figure it out. As far as the glass coming out shouldn't be an issue as I believe I still have a "hook up" with a glass place that would buy all their glass from the JY I worked for
Thank you sir!
Thank you sir!
05-19-2010, 10:55 PM
#103
actually getting the glass out is easy. Its putting it in where you need the glass people with their special sealant. You can buy the sealant but they have a motorized applicator since the stuff is so thick.
The GXE is easier to cut out since the trim is separate from the glass. On my SEs I took razor blades and cut it out from the inside to save the rubber trim that is attached to the glass.
The GXE is easier to cut out since the trim is separate from the glass. On my SEs I took razor blades and cut it out from the inside to save the rubber trim that is attached to the glass.
05-20-2010, 01:24 AM
#105
I miss my VE
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 2,553
actually getting the glass out is easy. Its putting it in where you need the glass people with their special sealant. You can buy the sealant but they have a motorized applicator since the stuff is so thick.
The GXE is easier to cut out since the trim is separate from the glass. On my SEs I took razor blades and cut it out from the inside to save the rubber trim that is attached to the glass.
The GXE is easier to cut out since the trim is separate from the glass. On my SEs I took razor blades and cut it out from the inside to save the rubber trim that is attached to the glass.
Believe it or not, I use to work for a shop that was too cheap to buy a motorized applicator and just used a manual quality caulking style gun, and had less come-backs for leaks then the shop that used the motorized one. It did take alot out of your forarm though.
You tell em John!
05-20-2010, 07:41 AM
#106
The special sealant is some kind of urethane, and If Im not mistaken, you can get the motorized applicator at home depot or sears.
Believe it or not, I use to work for a shop that was too cheap to buy a motorized applicator and just used a manual quality caulking style gun, and had less come-backs for leaks then the shop that used the motorized one. It did take alot out of your forarm though.
Believe it or not, I use to work for a shop that was too cheap to buy a motorized applicator and just used a manual quality caulking style gun, and had less come-backs for leaks then the shop that used the motorized one. It did take alot out of your forarm though.
05-20-2010, 10:49 AM
#107
I miss my VE
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 2,553
05-24-2010, 11:55 AM
#108
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