Well, I REALLY did it this time...
#86
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Right now the project is stalled while I wait on parts from Nissan. I removed the manifold studs that are screwed into the manifold to hold it to the y-pipe since they were old and had seen better days. I need to install the new ones before I can get to work reassembling the motor.
#87
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Update: The parts I needed came earlier this week while I was out of town. I will start reassembling the motor after work today. With a little luck I should have it running by the end of the weekend.
#88
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I will be reinstalling the heads tomorrow. When I was scraping off the old gasket, some small pieces of gasket material fell down the ports that surround the pistons in the block. Not sure which ones are oil vs. coolant ports, but would it be a good idea to fill the oil and coolant, run it for a short amount of time, then drain it and fill it again or should I even worry about it?
#89
how large were the pieces?
Is your oil pan leaking at all?
If the pan is still sealed, don't touch it- it'll leak forever if you pull it off. grrrr.
Definitely drain the radiator and run the coolant through a screen filter. it should be plenty fresh since we just changed it when doing the timing belt (a year?? ago).
then again, the AF is $8 a bucket. not that much to worry about in the long run so you might just change it.
but try draining the block through the plugs on each side of the block. they're pipe plugs right about where the engine mount brackets are.
Is your oil pan leaking at all?
If the pan is still sealed, don't touch it- it'll leak forever if you pull it off. grrrr.
Definitely drain the radiator and run the coolant through a screen filter. it should be plenty fresh since we just changed it when doing the timing belt (a year?? ago).
then again, the AF is $8 a bucket. not that much to worry about in the long run so you might just change it.
but try draining the block through the plugs on each side of the block. they're pipe plugs right about where the engine mount brackets are.
#90
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I drained the coolant and oil awhile back. What I think I will do is buy some cheap oil and let it flush anything that is in the oil pan, then refill it and run it 100 miles or so and change it. As for the coolant, I think I will fill it with 100% water, let the thermostat open and circulate, then drain and refill.
Does that sound like a good plan to you?
Does that sound like a good plan to you?
#91
Got compressed air ? Just blow the air in the other passages and all that crap will come out(the large passages around the cylinder are coolant)( the small round ones are oil passages)! But yes I would install water first run it check for leaks....if everything is good... flush it and refill with new antifreeze, water pump lube, and maybe even some wet wetter additive....GL
#92
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Update: I am getting closer to having it running. Made a lot of progress over the weekend. I was putting on the second component of the intake manifold last night before I called it a day and ended up snapping one of the bolts that holds it on. Fortunately, I was able to back it out, but now I am thinking that those bolts may be fatigued and could stand to be replaced. We'll see how long it takes me to get more from the dealer...
#93
Ben, sorry I didn't call you back yesterday. had the phone inside the house and was working outside all day on the barn, garage, truck, other truck, trailer, tractor, uhh mowed the lawn, etc. outside from 9am until 11pm last night. ugh. tired and sore.
anyway, if the dealer can't find them for you, I have a full set of those bolts at my place if you need some. They're in my random parts bin, but I'm pretty sure I haven't used any of them. you're welcome to bring what you need to my place and dig around in the bucket and find what you need. only have two 5 gal buckets full of metric bolts f/ various Nissans.
You can probably also order something equivalent from many of the metric parts houses locally. a socket head screw all run about the same diameter head so they shouldn't have a problem fitting in the OEM spots. a buck or ten a piece if you order them in stainless.
g'luck
anyway, if the dealer can't find them for you, I have a full set of those bolts at my place if you need some. They're in my random parts bin, but I'm pretty sure I haven't used any of them. you're welcome to bring what you need to my place and dig around in the bucket and find what you need. only have two 5 gal buckets full of metric bolts f/ various Nissans.
You can probably also order something equivalent from many of the metric parts houses locally. a socket head screw all run about the same diameter head so they shouldn't have a problem fitting in the OEM spots. a buck or ten a piece if you order them in stainless.
g'luck
#94
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Ben, sorry I didn't call you back yesterday. had the phone inside the house and was working outside all day on the barn, garage, truck, other truck, trailer, tractor, uhh mowed the lawn, etc. outside from 9am until 11pm last night. ugh. tired and sore.
anyway, if the dealer can't find them for you, I have a full set of those bolts at my place if you need some. They're in my random parts bin, but I'm pretty sure I haven't used any of them. you're welcome to bring what you need to my place and dig around in the bucket and find what you need. only have two 5 gal buckets full of metric bolts f/ various Nissans.
You can probably also order something equivalent from many of the metric parts houses locally. a socket head screw all run about the same diameter head so they shouldn't have a problem fitting in the OEM spots. a buck or ten a piece if you order them in stainless.
g'luck
anyway, if the dealer can't find them for you, I have a full set of those bolts at my place if you need some. They're in my random parts bin, but I'm pretty sure I haven't used any of them. you're welcome to bring what you need to my place and dig around in the bucket and find what you need. only have two 5 gal buckets full of metric bolts f/ various Nissans.
You can probably also order something equivalent from many of the metric parts houses locally. a socket head screw all run about the same diameter head so they shouldn't have a problem fitting in the OEM spots. a buck or ten a piece if you order them in stainless.
g'luck
If they end up being the wrong size I will definitely come see you (it's happened before!)
Project is on hold till then, but it's OK since I won't have a way to get over there anyway. The 'Vette will be at the shop for the next two or three days. Two cars and can't drive either...lol
#96
Yeah I know the feeling when there's too much on the plate or at least from other people's perspective....Once I totally finish the 3rd gen, I'll jump back on my Shelby Charger project..... in which I have 75% of the parts already and most are modded and waiting for assembly...4 vehicles 3 running, 1 under construction
#97
i beat all of you
4 cars (90 max, 89 max, 85 z31, 04 Shiitvic) and only 1 runs well enough to be driven on public roads, and the one that does run is still a POS. Might be getting another one (bare z31 shell) soon.
4 cars (90 max, 89 max, 85 z31, 04 Shiitvic) and only 1 runs well enough to be driven on public roads, and the one that does run is still a POS. Might be getting another one (bare z31 shell) soon.
#99
#100
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I made some progress yesterday, but am still wrestling with getting the Stage II LTB back on. It's slightly off center on one of the control arms and won't allow me to fit a socket into it over the nut.
#101
Stick a jack under the center of the bar while you're pressing the socket in. somtimes they need a little 'persuasion'. it's a tight fit... especially after you've whacked it on a few potholes or roadkill.
Caped.. you don't come close.
As of Saturday, I had eight vehicles, two trailers, two riding mowers, and a tractor in my yard. (All but the tractor are mine)....
Sold off one of the trucks on Sat and will be selling another truck as soon as I get the title for it. one of the trailers and one riding lawnmower will go as well when I get a chance to clean it up and get it running right.
And all but one of the cars/trucks run. The eighth was running before I pulled the engine to build it for my race car.
Caped.. you don't come close.
As of Saturday, I had eight vehicles, two trailers, two riding mowers, and a tractor in my yard. (All but the tractor are mine)....
Sold off one of the trucks on Sat and will be selling another truck as soon as I get the title for it. one of the trailers and one riding lawnmower will go as well when I get a chance to clean it up and get it running right.
And all but one of the cars/trucks run. The eighth was running before I pulled the engine to build it for my race car.
#102
Caped.. you don't come close.
As of Saturday, I had eight vehicles, two trailers, two riding mowers, and a tractor in my yard. (All but the tractor are mine)....
Sold off one of the trucks on Sat and will be selling another truck as soon as I get the title for it. one of the trailers and one riding lawnmower will go as well when I get a chance to clean it up and get it running right.
And all but one of the cars/trucks run. The eighth was running before I pulled the engine to build it for my race car.
As of Saturday, I had eight vehicles, two trailers, two riding mowers, and a tractor in my yard. (All but the tractor are mine)....
Sold off one of the trucks on Sat and will be selling another truck as soon as I get the title for it. one of the trailers and one riding lawnmower will go as well when I get a chance to clean it up and get it running right.
And all but one of the cars/trucks run. The eighth was running before I pulled the engine to build it for my race car.
#103
I have more non-running vehicles than you have total.
one 240 is wrecked. no engine
one truck is wrecked. bad rod knock
another truck is up on jack stands waiting on parts
Maxima has a blown radiator and no battery
one lawnmower hasn't started in two years. don't even know if the engine will turn over since it has no battery or key.
:P
one 240 is wrecked. no engine
one truck is wrecked. bad rod knock
another truck is up on jack stands waiting on parts
Maxima has a blown radiator and no battery
one lawnmower hasn't started in two years. don't even know if the engine will turn over since it has no battery or key.
:P
#104
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how large were the pieces?
Is your oil pan leaking at all?
If the pan is still sealed, don't touch it- it'll leak forever if you pull it off. grrrr.
Definitely drain the radiator and run the coolant through a screen filter. it should be plenty fresh since we just changed it when doing the timing belt (a year?? ago).
then again, the AF is $8 a bucket. not that much to worry about in the long run so you might just change it.
but try draining the block through the plugs on each side of the block. they're pipe plugs right about where the engine mount brackets are.
Is your oil pan leaking at all?
If the pan is still sealed, don't touch it- it'll leak forever if you pull it off. grrrr.
Definitely drain the radiator and run the coolant through a screen filter. it should be plenty fresh since we just changed it when doing the timing belt (a year?? ago).
then again, the AF is $8 a bucket. not that much to worry about in the long run so you might just change it.
but try draining the block through the plugs on each side of the block. they're pipe plugs right about where the engine mount brackets are.
I did find the one on the front side tho.
#105
#106
Basically it's in the same place on the other side of the block. look at page LC-7 in the FSM for a diagram. it's directly in front of the inboard CV boot on the axle, below the engine mount bracket.
#107
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D'oh! The car is ready to start for all accounts and purposes except for one large vacuum hose I neglected to order. The one I have has a large crack in it, so off to the dealer I go...Unfortunately, I doubt they can get it to me by tomorrow.
Another question that popped into my head: how do you determine if the engine is on its compression stroke or not?
Another question that popped into my head: how do you determine if the engine is on its compression stroke or not?
#108
D'oh! The car is ready to start for all accounts and purposes except for one large vacuum hose I neglected to order. The one I have has a large crack in it, so off to the dealer I go...Unfortunately, I doubt they can get it to me by tomorrow.
Another question that popped into my head: how do you determine if the engine is on its compression stroke or not?
Another question that popped into my head: how do you determine if the engine is on its compression stroke or not?
#109
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by the reference marks on the rear timing cover and cam sprockets or by the position of the distributor rotor (if it's pointing toward spark plug wire 1 (the post for it, not where the wire attaches... they criss cross inside the cap), then cyl 1 is under compression and ready to be ignited)
Oh, and the hose I need will be here either Saturday or Monday. Of course there are 5 at the dealers in Dallas, but none in Houston.
My mental tally is telling me that fixing the motor has cost me somewhere between $800 and 900...Ouch!
#111
Ah, I see...Retarded question. I wasn't thinking about the cams being at TDC. What made me think of it was that after rotating the crank sprocket only once the distributor is 180 from TDC. Wasn't thinking clearly, LOL.
Oh, and the hose I need will be here either Saturday or Monday. Of course there are 5 at the dealers in Dallas, but none in Houston.
My mental tally is telling me that fixing the motor has cost me somewhere between $800 and 900...Ouch!
Oh, and the hose I need will be here either Saturday or Monday. Of course there are 5 at the dealers in Dallas, but none in Houston.
My mental tally is telling me that fixing the motor has cost me somewhere between $800 and 900...Ouch!
#112
the last part is the most important imo. every time i consider buying a car, they say "and we just did the ____ and the ____ and the _____" but i always wonder in the back of my mind "did they do it right? did they use decent-quality parts?"
#113
Man, $900? You could have just bought good used heads from a wrecked Max at the JY and new gaskets.. That's quite a lot to spend just to get it running on all 6. Can't knock you for babying it with new parts though
Last edited by Hectic; 04-08-2010 at 11:33 PM.
#114
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The sad part is that I won't really get to enjoy it right away. The plan is to run a tank of gas through it (the gas that is in there has been there since last fall) then park it and drop the tranny for a new ISB. Only THEN will it be ready for daily use again.
Last edited by maxitech; 04-09-2010 at 06:39 AM.
#116
When you replace the ISB, go against your trend and don't buy it at the dealer. For one because they will charge you too much, but most of all because the OEM bearing is the one that is prone to exploding. Go to a bearing shop and buy an NSK brand or have them order it for you. I don't know the part code off hand but can go look at my outer race that I still have if you need. Should be about $25. I'm not saying an NSK won't blow up as well with time, but I'm going on over 3 years and 30k miles with mine and it's held up through all the hell i've put it through. OEM busted at 90k miles the first time I ever drove the car hard after I bought it.
#117
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Hectic, please do let me know what brand that bearing is. I need to start shopping around for a tranny shop. The one place I had quote me said $500 parts and labor. Not too bad, but I would like to check with some other places first before pulling the trigger.
Last edited by maxitech; 04-09-2010 at 07:24 AM.
#118
i just used unbent hoses from autozone and bent them to fit... some had to take wider courses to keep from kinking but they all worked in the end. i replaced every rubber hose under the hood other than PS/AC for like... $250-300 i think.
#119
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Well, a few more setbacks. The hose that I was told yesterday would be in today won't be here till Monday. And the middle piece (the plate) of the intake manifold assembly has stripped one of its threaded holes. (I was being gentle and still don't know how this happened.) So once it stops raining I need to go to the junkyard and see what I can get one off of them for. D'oh!
One other request: Can someone post a pic of that assembly with the two small vacuum hoses coming out of it that is bolted to the top middle of the firewall? Make sure it shows where those two vacuum hoses connect to, that's what I need to see...
One other request: Can someone post a pic of that assembly with the two small vacuum hoses coming out of it that is bolted to the top middle of the firewall? Make sure it shows where those two vacuum hoses connect to, that's what I need to see...
#120