He emerges from his man cave!

I wasn't expecting anything from you, just curious if there was an easy explanation. I was hoping marke would follow up with a correct explanation of which wires are go where, since he discovered the appropriate setup, but he has a functioning car and has no use for us, yet............

I figured I would ask before I dive into the FSM, which probably wouldn't hurt me, but easy is as easy does.

Would using these clutch components pose a problem, such as destroying anything other than themselves? I can deal with wearing them down more, just to have to replace them eventually, but if they potentially will fail and cause disastrous effects, I may need a new one huh?

I appreciate the help, and I have atleast 3 weeks more until this information will be vital, so no rush. I find it easier to use the little yellow blobs to encourage a more fun atmosphere. If I had said "HELP!!" I may not have received a kind answer...........

 

I just used the red/black wire instead of the yellow/black one.
My flywheel had micro-cracks in it like yours, but when I had it resurfaced they went away.

 

yea i figured that out when i did mine. the FSM had a misprint (showing the back-up lamp attached to the y/b wire instead of the r/b wire)

 

So getting back to these questions.

1. With the wires appropriately arranged (r/b instead of y/b) the pic is correct and points 1 and 2 in the quoted post are correct, from what I can see.
2. Question 3 is answered by the past few posts, and thanks marke for the confirmation and testimony on the flywheel.
3. Question 4 and its sub question has yet to be answered directly, but it is explained in other threads so I kinda understand why you would take the spring off and wire the brake cancel switch to the clutch sensor furthest from the firewall.
   • So whaddup wit dat Caped?

 

k here's the "fixed" pic lol



the green/black is naturally present in the 4-pin connector and so is the brown one. just move them to appropriate positions shown in the pic
the green one is the thicker green wire from the 6-pin connector
the red/black one is also from the 6-pin connector

the clutch cancel switch (as see in the graphic i posted a page or so ago) is the 'upper' one. the 'lower' switch (firewall) is the one that you need to send thru the firewall to wire in parallel with the green/black and brown wires.

the weight of the pedal itself is SO minute compared to the weight that you put on the pedal when pressing it. I never had any issues with strain or slippage when using a springless pedal, but imo it improves feel and feedback as well as engaging smoother. I just used the adjuster on the master cylinder rod to set the pedal height so that it was just high enough to keep the cruise control switch pressed. no clunk, and a smooth taper. just adjust the clutch-start stopper up a bit so that there isn't alot of dead freeplay at the bottom of the pedal travel.

 

From what I can gather, this is what it should look like, and how the clutch start switch should be wired. It basically reconfirms what you have already drawn and taken pictures of.


I will look at my pedal and the switches more to fully understand the last paragraph and perhaps replicate the setup you have.

 

I guess my diagram is inferior if I don't get feedback.

 

@ wookiee head

actually technically the cruise control wiring doesn't go through the firewall, it goes to the little ASCD control unit up under the dash. wiring from that goes through the firewall.

but everything else looks right. just remember that the green/black and brown are a pair and that the thick green and the red/black are a pair. the reason the thick wire is important cuz that's actually the power source for the backup lights. there's no relays or anything further down the line.

now.. as far as the pedal spring thing.. basically the switches are threaded for adjustilbity. you can adjust them to set the upper and lower boundaries of the pedal travel. so what I would do is take the return spring off, then reinstall the pedal, and use the threaded rod coming thru the firewall to set the pedal height where you want it after the clutch is bled). then once you have it where you want it, adjust the cruise control switch so that the button touches the pad, but the metal shell of the switch has about 1mm gap before touching the green pad. then once you have the swap finished you can set the start switch about a half inch past where the clutch fully disengages. that way you don't have a bunch of useless travel at the bottom of the pedal.