hotrodder

So, if it wasnt for bad luck I would have no luck at all. Here is my new problem. Well, some "what happened" info first:

Im driving along the highway at 65ish mph. I give it some gas and change lanes to go around some slow car Im comin up on and I hear a clunk and bam its as if the car is in Neutral....so I get to the side of the road and I have zero trans...no reverse, no drive, no 1st no 2nd...When it is in P and I hit the brake I hear it clicking but as soon as I put it in gear, nothing, it goes into neutral and just revs in any gear...D 1 2 and R

Its a 93 GXE auto.....any ideas?? I just got it home (85.00 F-ing tow) and havent gotten under it yet but...linkage? solenoid? some connection? is the damn trans just shot? Any ideas?? Prior to this it had not one slip not one clunk not one peep from the trans ove the past year and 13K miles I have owned it.


Please help! Thanks guys in advance as usual...

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

are there any other noises, humming, grinding, rubbing? or does it sound like it is in park, (the way park sounded before this happened)?

hotrodder

There are no other noises...no idle change when I put it in any gear, the linkage does move through the gears with the shifter but nothing happens...the only noise I hear is the clicking when it is in park and I put my foot on the brakes.

Some things I have read indicate something called an engine revolution sensor? The basis of this is that the sensor doesnt sense the engine moving to allow it to engage a gear?? I dont know but supposedly the sensor is 350 bucks or so and very easy to get to. Problem is, if thats not it, thats a big expense for a guess.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

it shouldn't have gone "bang" if it was just a sensor going out, I don't believe.
the rev sensor is easy to get to.
have you looked at the AT section of the FSM, yet?
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/1994/at.pdf
go through the re4f02a diagnostics(starts on page 29), see what happens.

hotrodder

No, I havent gone through that but I will now...I appreciate the help man.

I assume with my luck, something internal just broke and now the trans needs rebuilt...perfect timing, when I have zero extra money due to my wedding Im saving for...but thats my luck.

Again thanks, Ill see what I come up with in the pdf you linked.

hotrodder

So, none of the manual is making sense to me...Im just too frustrated and tired to read it and comprehend it I guess but it seems I need tools or testing equipment I dont have to check things via that manual. Ill re-read it in the morning.

however, I took the air box out so I could do some visual inspections on the top of the trans just to make sure everything was connected and still in tact (dont know really what I expecetd to find but sittign doing nothing is driving me nuts) One thing I did see is that there is a hose form the top of the control valve assembly cover that connect to nothing. I assume it is just a pressure release or somthing and not supposed to be connected but thought I would ask....is this hose supposed to connect to nothing or something?

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

yes, there is such a hose. ignore it, after making sure it's the correct vent hose.
ignore anything in the consult section. I was mainly suggesting the TCU self test stuff.

edit: this one http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...nsmission.html

hotrodder

You are the man! I must have skipped over this part in the FSM you sent me..thsi is what I needed. I just have one question/clarification..

When it says put the "A/T mode to AUTO".....and then later references the "power indicator lamp"...are they both referring to the trans switch where you can select Power or Comfort...and I assume the middle position is "AUTO" ?? Or am I not looking in the right spot?

Again, thank you very much...I did search the forum but I typed in all sorts of transmission related keywords and this never came up...I guess I should have combed the FAQ too then. In any case, thank you!

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

yeah, the "auto" switch is between power and comfort. iirc, the power light on the switch blinks. I did it on my parts car, which I don't have any more, so I didn't bother remembering.

hotrodder

I did the test tonight...and got nothing which according to the directions indicates the inhibitor switch, overdrive switch, and throttle position switch circuit...so Ill have to do some more research and see what in the world that means and what I need to replace.

Again, thanks, I cant thank you enough because I was about at the end of my rope with these little things popping up. It might still be something expensive but at least it doesnt sound like it ill need a rebuild...phew (I hope)

hotrodder

Does this seem correct?

inhibitor switch - allows the car to start, telling the trans yes it is in a safe gear to start the car. (making this seem like it is not my problem since my car starts)

overdrive switch - makes overdrive work or not which it seems to do since the light comes on and off as I switch it. (also making it not the problem with my car)

throttle position switch - senses where the throttle is and coordinates that with what gear the trans should be in. (and since mine wont go into gear seems this may be the culprit)

Also seems to be plausible sinse it happened in mid-drive...it lost the signal and didnt know what the trans should be in so it puts it in neutral for safety...logical?

Unfortunately thats a 150-200 dollar part but still better than 2K for a rebuild

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Sounds like the main shaft broke

hotrodder

Main shaft internal to the trans?? or main shaft that the throttle position sensor is driven (or drives) off of?

If the main shaft internal to the trans why would the self diagnostic show this? Wouldnt it have given the checks out ok code if it was mechanical and not electrical?

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

There is no sensor on the engine which will cause your issue..The "clunk" along with no forward or reverse gears indicates to me that the main shaft in the transmission has broken in two..

maxinout93

Yup when mine died it made a loud clunk and boom sound and the car felt like it was in neutral. Mine had 225,000 miles. It started to slip in second gear, and the pump started to whine really loud before it finially blew out, plus the fluid was a little darker than normal.

hotrodder

Well my fluid is fine and my trans has never slipped or missed or anything. It shifted smoothly and always shifted prior to this so I may be a bit optimistic with this but I have to say I think you guys are wrong. Im hoping you are anyway haha....it seems to me that if it was mechanical, I would have had at least one sign somewhere prior to this and it seems too convenient that the electrical diagnoses shows a potential solution that does make sense. Ill see what happens..Im getting the sensor tonight so well see...it was only 60.00 at the local auto parts store.

hotrodder

I should clarify for a more accurate guess as to what might be broken. When I said "I heard a clunk and then bam"....I meant "I heard a clunk and the just like that"...not two seperate noises.

The clunk was the only noise I ever heard and it was a similar clunk as when the car shifts...not soo much a breaking sounding clunk but just hearing the trans shift and change rpms...then I gave it some gas and it just revved...

Maybe this paints a little clearer picture?

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

was the clunking really a sound? a transmission shouldn't make any noise when shifting, at least, none I have ever driven.

maxinout93

Well I hope u can save yours because if u have a GXE its pretty hard to find a tranny for one. Mine gave me little warning when it blew. First it was slipping a little in 1st and 2nd, then it started making a weird noise sort of like when your power steering pump is low on fluid. Then all of a sudden it was driving fine and shifting fine then Boom! and the next thing i know I smell a loud stench of burned tranny fluid and see puffs of smoke coming from the front of the car, I did manage to drive the car 30 miles on the interstate back home to where it has been sitting since October of last year, dont know what I want to do with it. All these online sites say u cant ship to a residential address only a business, and the local prices here are out ragious, they want from $400 to $600 dollars for a tranny, and thats ridiculous! It really is! So I hope yours is something simple!

hotrodder

400-600 is pretty damn good for a trans if its a perfect working trans...to rebuild one here it would be about 2500 at a small shop and double at the dealer. Used ones arent too easy to find but I have seen them in the 400-600 range. And on everdrive.com I can get one for 1299.00 with a 3 year unlimited mile warranty shipped to my door...to me that is when it gets expensive. 400-600 is good.

Im trying to think back now when it happened but my view on it at this point might be swayed by what I wanted it to sound like and what you guys are suggesting it might have sounded like.

When I accelerated, the car ramped up and took off and two seconds later, revved up with no acceleration so I let off.....there was no real clunk or bang...and I let off a bit, gassed it and all it did was rev so I moved the shifter around and kept giving it a little gas, when all it did was rev, I put on my hazards and got over to the side of the road.

That is how I recall it but like I said, may be swayed at this point. In any case, I ajm changing out the sensor today and hope for the best...Ill keep you posted.

Thanks for the replies though.

hotrodder

So, put the new throttle position sensor in and started her up...and no movement still. I am soo F-ing tired of this car...I am reading through the FSM that you linked and everything would be a thousand times easier with the right tool to check circuits and everything but I guess I just need to figure out how to check all the damn options electrically before I take the time and money to look into pulling the trans out and inspecting the internals..

Where is the A/T control unit? There are a lot of circuit voltages to check to see if the revolution sensor might be bad...then there are indicators that the torque converter may be malfunctioning...then theres symptoms it might be other sensors...I just dont know and I just do not have the time or patience to deal with this.

If this was your car..what would you check next? and how?

LvR

If that doesn't work, I would suggest you first get a pressure gage and with the FSM plumb it into the outlet side of the regulated pressure port on the box - see if at least the pump is producing enough/correct pressure - if anything is wonky here chances are you will have no gears at all - broken shaft/seal (bad) or sticking control valve assembly (possibly good)

hotrodder

So this is beyond my knowledge level but seems easy enough if I can research some more about where to plumb and check and what not.

So in the event a shaft or seal is broken, what will the result be? no pressure?

if the control valve assembly is sticking for some reason, what would the result be?

Is the broken shaft or broken anything about the only thing that seems like it could cause the neutral condition during mid-drive?? Is there any other potential causes for it going into neutral while driving with ZERO other symptoms that the trans may have issues?

LvR

Anything wrong with the pressure lines on the box (for whatever reason) will cause your problem - this is still a mechanical animal and its basic operation is governed by fluid pressure.

Broken shaft/seal can result in low/no pressure (most likely) while a sticky control valve (more than one in the box) may result in either low or high pressure on the pump side but it could also simply be feeding pressure to the wrong (more than one clutch/band) at the same time.

I would forget about the electronics for now and first check the very basics - pressure - the FSM has detail exploded connection diagrams and charts in it. This is a basic mechanical governed parameter requiring absolutely no input from the TCU so a lot can be learned about your situation from only a few pressure measurements.

hotrodder

Cool man, Ill try that next too...I dont know when Ill get to it but I will eventually since its just sitting in my premium garage space.

I have the opportunity to pick up a whole 89 GXE with 74K miles on it for 500 bucks so Im thinking that Ill just swap the trans for now (assuming it will swap 1 for 1) and dive into it after its out...can always keep it on hand as a back up!

Thanks to everyone.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

yeah, all GXE trans are the same. what's wrong with the 89?

hotrodder

the dude that currently has it slid into a curb and broke the right rear tire off of the car...so he started pulling the right rear apart, cut the strut out, took eveything off and now its sitting there with no wheel. I would buy it, fix everythin on it and drive that one but it has A LOT of rust all over the car so not worth it. But for 550.00, a 74K mile engine and trans and a nearly perfect interior make it worth picking up I think.

91_Black_Max

I had the same exact thing happen to my 91 GXE. The problem was to the tranny interior. It was cheaper to change out the tranny with a rebuild.

300zmax

my last auto when the same way, @ 65 its started to rumble and then when BOOM. but i had drive, no reverse and you could not push the car in neutral. that was the last straw and i threw in an 89 5-spd.

if you do a swap, do your motor mounts, the 50$ will go a long way.

maximagician

check the easy stuff first like the linkage
but as i have said 3-4 times on this forum

ITS YOUR TORQUE CONVETER THAT STRIPPED

and as bad as that sounds its better than teeth on the tranny side
stripping (input shaft goes into the converter)

it happened to my white 92 gxe and i swapped it myself for 200 new
i had previous exp swapping one for a 90 nissan stanza(same trans)

both cars were downshifting when a noise was heard and then no gears
would engage,and when you turn the motor off i could hear it spinning and
scraping around the input shaft believe-you-me

maximagician

this also happens when the test procedure is not done right
its confusing since it involves so much similar stuff
and the test uses the 3 sensors\units you list above

maxinout93

WOw Mine went out the same exact way! Im thinking of buying a whole parts car for $500 with a good engine and tranny and putting both in my car. But since my engine is still good and only needs some injectors and a crankshaft seal with 225,000 miles i think it would kinda be a waste of money since my mechanic wants to do the job for $600, and I only really just need a tranny to get bak on the road. Is it worth paying someone $250 and waiting nearly 3 weeks to get the car bak or is the tranny swap simple? Do you really need one of those expensive $80-100 jacks or would bricks do the job just as good? Ive already taken the driverside axle out.

hotrodder

Im weighing my options financially for now. I havent done anything yet to the car, its just sitting in the garage. I have a wedding to pay for so thats concern #1...Im waiting to meet with some more banquet halls and depending on the money Ill need for that will determine what I do with the Max. If I can afford it, I want to overhaul the entire front end as long as I have to get in there anyway. I want to pull the motor and trans, swap the trans for a used one in good working order and replace all my gaskets/seals in the engine, replace the suspension that needs it, replace the motor mounts, brakes, and powers steering lines that ae leaking and call it a day for a long time hopefully.

well see but thanks for all the replies.

ve30max

iTrader: (2)

Do you mean it would be a waste to buy the parts car and swap stuff around yourself; or would it be waste, in your mind to spend $600 for your mechanic to fix your existing problems, and not buy the parts car?

$250 for tranny repair or for your mechanic to do the swap? No you don't need one of those jack stands, if you are swapping an auto for a manual b/c the manual ways much less and can be maneuvered by two strong people. The auto is monster and not worth it, but you can also adapt a normal car jack stand to lift up one, if you are careful. The complex part of the auto to manual swap is finding all the little parts that go with the tranny.....

I would get the parts car since the trans and engine is in good condition. You have a resource for any part you need in the future, and most importantly a working engine and trans for now. Sell a few parts from it and build up a little so you can pay your mechanic to swap the stuff if you don't have the equipment.

maxinout93

thanks for the advice.