Alright work with me I'm going to try to explain what been going on for the last couple of weeks. I have of course 93 VE 5spd that I've been overhauling. She runs now and I'm doing body work. At the same time when trying to move her around I notice I put her in 1st get all the way off the clutch and give a lil gas and she slowly creeps away. (Not at all the torquie take off of a 5spd) When putting in reverse she moves back about 2 feet then stops rolling. (motor still running) Give her some gas and nothing. Put back in 1st then into reverse another 2 feet then stops rolling. Bled the hell out of my clutch through bleeder. My mechanic tried it and said it seemed as if the clutch were slipping. Its a brand new ACT street clutch with their pressure plate & tob along with a fidanza flywheel. Brief description: Clutch engages but not all the way. Its not popping out of gear b/c when I hold it and look at the gauges rpms and speedo match 5 mph. So gears are moving in the tranny just not matching at the wheels. I've been texting James and talking with Cmax03 for the last 2 weeks or so to try and figure this out. ITS DRIVING ME CRAZY!

I have been googling my issue and searching on the org the whole time trying to find an answer. I do know that what ever it is its something simple that I probably wouldn't think it would be. My linkage seems fine. As far as I'm concerned it only hooks up one way since I only disconnected at transmission. Shifter bushing? Who's isn't worn out after almost 20 years. The only thing missing in the equation would be that engine plate that goes b/w flywheel and block. Matt and James know what I'm talking about since I couldn't find one. (Mine got misplaced) Everything was done by the FSM. I'm lost on what it could be. I tried holding out on making a thread hoping changing this and that would fix it. But I can't get it on my own. Any advice or experiences would help. Thanks.

 

Take it back down.

 

Thats exactly what I want to avoid. I see it as a last resort but if it has to be done then so be it.

 

Release bearing not properly fitted (or too wide), causing it to push on the pressure plate?

My bet is definately that something is fitted wrong, as both clutch disc and pressure plate is ATC (Decent brand, isn't it?).

I don't believe the shifter linkage has anything to do with it, pretty hard to fit that one the wrong way..

And taking the tranny and clutch assembly out is about 2-3 hours of work. I say do it.

 

True but the throw out bearing is also ACT. Their a good brand I just have to figure out whats wrong with mine.

 

take a look very carefully at how you re-installed the transmission.

When I first put in my ACT, MrGone and I hit one of the aluminum guides. The trans was a few mm short of going all the way on. We couldn't figure it out for a couple of hours. After we realized it, MrGone got out his dremel and cut away half of the guide so the trans would fit all the way on. I think there is a picture on my cardomain, but I haven't check that in probably a year.

It's just something to look for. Obviously, there is something not quite right for you. Good luck with it, that stuff is always frustrating.

 

Not having the spacer (or engine plate) installed would cause the tob to push the pp more than normal. Adjusting your clutch should fix your problem, but I would recommend installing the spacer. Not having the spacer may cause other issues...

One time I forgot to install the spacer when I did a clutch job. I didn't feel like completely pulling the tranny and removing the flywheel again, so I improvised. I cut the spacer in half and then installed each half. The spacer is normally "O" shaped. After I cut it in half I was left with 2 "C" shaped pieces that would slide in between the flywheel and engine block. They were a pita to install, but it was a quick solution. I ended up replacing them with a whole spacer when I recently upgraded the clutch.

 

That I will do. Its true about the frustrating part though. I'll check Monday when I get back to the shop. Once I find out what it is I'll correct it after we paint the car. Don't want to slow up my painter while hes on a roll.

 

Yeah as I said before I was reading old threads the other night and read yours with this exact same word for word response about three years ago on what you had done. I have come across an entire VE motor locally for $300 with the plate. I wasn't neglecting to never put one on just whenever I get one I will.

 

I just don't want to loose the little bit of hair of I got left over this crap. I just need to get it out of these peoples shop and I'll take care of this issue some how.

 

yeah, that's what i was thinking too.. either the retainer on the tob or the adjuster on the master cylinder rod. if he's SURE the hydraulics are in working order, that is.

 

Pretty much everyone list some scenarios and I'll try each one out til I get it.