92 Max,VE engine.
Here is the problem: Once I shut the car off, when I go to restart it the engine cranks for 3-5 seconds then starts to fire, misses on 1-2 cylinders then clears up. If I hold WOT when cranking it shortens this procedure. Any time I start it there is a very strong fuel smell briefly which goes away once it runs 5-10 seconds. Even a brief shutdown triggers this.
Now I think it's obvious the engine(1-2 cylinders) is flooded.......
If I pull fuel pump fuse under dash when running, then turn key OFF and replace the fuse it starts a little easier.

About a month ago I replaced 1 injector and o-rings and it ran great initially, I had read threads about nicking o-rings so thought I got lucky. Then this started.

So, I ordered full set of o-rings and required gaskets feeling certain I had f*$#ed-up an o-ring. I tear things down to unbolt fuel rail and check for leak. I take CAS off and set up with with cordless to spin sensor so the ecu keeps the fuel relay ON and let it pump away. It works you can hear the pump running and if I reconnect injector harness the injectors all spit fuel. However there is no fuel leaking past the o-rings, even with injectors unplugged and fuel pump running continually. The only thing I have not duplicated is the fuel rail being up to temperature. I am going to start pulling injectors and replacing the o-rings but, I thought I would see if anyone could point out something I am missing! I don't know of any other way to flood these engines than a dirty injector or leaking o-ring.
Any ideas?

New question, I pulled suspect inj. and found nicked o-ring. I also had the little plastic cap on end of injector fall apart on me. This looks like a "keeper" to prevent the o-ring blowing off the end of inj. under pressure. Dealer shows cap in diagram but there is no part #, service tech thought "you will probably be alright without it". I doubt that. Anyone have any experience with this? Ideas? Or a source for this piece. It looks like new injectors or pull some used inj. and try to salvage this piece from them. Tho' they do seem to self-destruct when attempting to remove them.

 

I too have have a similar problem as to what you are describing. I recently replaced 2 of my injectors. The car ran fine, except at idle and in park, at idle it would nearly want to shut off sometimes. Other than that the car ran fine. So I finially got tired of the missing and stumbling and decided to change 2 of the injectors. I had 4 from the JY, but only 2 had pintle caps. By the way I have the VG engine so I had to take the manifold off. The first time I didnt get any new O-rings, and managed to pinch the lower O-Ring on the first injector. Second time I pinched another O-ring. Then the third time I got some new O-rings, and then I realized that the injectors I installed were a different dot color from the originals I had in there. I even replaced the fuel rail hoses with new ones. But I have to crank the car a little longer than normal to get it to start, and I still have a strong fuel smell inside the car car once it gets started, then it seems as if The different dot injector does not spray the same as the others, and so I can feel the car loose a little bit of power in the drive range at times. At the time I thought All injectors were the same reguardless of dot color.

 

while ordering all new orings order some new some new injector retaining screws, they're phillip/hex headed......easier to work with! This is why I changed my valve cover hardware to hex headed bolts, it's easier!

 

On this subject: which gaskets am I going to need to replace all my injector o-rings(I have a similar problem) and my valve cover gasket?

I'm guessing I need the upper/lower plenum gaskets. But do I need the actual intake manifold gasket?

I know this is a noob question but I thought it pertained to this thread a little bit.

Thanks

 

Just a little FYI, I did my head gasket recently and thought I would change the injector o-rings while I had the rail off. Big mistake, For some reason every one of the injector o-rings leaked when i got done. They were installed with the chamfer facing the right direction according to the manual. I think the o-rings were manufactured wrong. So I would stay away from Airtex injector o-ring kits if you were buying aftermarket.

 

Nickdoof - from what I remember (I did this 3 yrs ago) - You don't need the intake manifold gasket unless you want to go that far down. I wouldn't touch it if I were you, if there's no problem with it.

Jameez what direction was the chamfer supposed to go? I didn't even know those cushion rings had a direction. I didn't even pay attention to that, but they don't seem to leak on me.

 

I changed all three orings per injector as well and I haven't leaked a drop on the rail at all.....Where are yours leaking? At the cap tops or at the bottom? Did you lube the orings with fuel or vaseline during installation?

 

The bigger grommet (o-ring) on top was leaking, It sounded like a major vacuum leak and the car idled like crap. It took a while to figure out where the leak was coming from. I did'nt even think of the new injector orings I put in. I used vaseline to lube them up. The funny thing is I cleaned up the old ones and put them back in and the problem was fixed. This reminds me I never sent them back for a refund, Damn. As far as which way the chamfer goes I think it was down but don't quote me on that, its been a while. The factory service manual doesn't say which way the chamfer goes up or down, It was in the haynes where I seen it. I like to refer back and fourth to each manual just in case one has different information to make the job easier.

See the chamfer on the big o-ring http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=930347

 

The one with the chamfer isn't on the top! It's under the fuel rail itself......It's flat and square like on the ends but chamfered on one side of the I.D.....

 

I'm talking about the o-rings not the keeper on top of the rail. Also the O-RING with the chamfer seals the upper part of the injector. So when I say its on top I mean its on the top part of the injector that is in the hole. not the top part of the rail. Also it's Chamfer is on the O.D. of the o-ring not the I.D...... Thanks for clearing that up........

 

I have a 92SE as well, did the injectors and new o-rings yesterday, brought three injectors from Hectic and got the o-rings(6 of them) from the dealer. For the front three injectors, it took me about 30-45 mins, not difficult at all. From what i understand, you will be fine without the cap, the smaller o-ring is not going blow out without it. And the cap is part of the injector, can't get it by itself.