Water Pump Took A Dump
#1
Water Pump Took A Dump
Yeah my water pump finally took a dump at 150 thousand miles. I figured it was on it's way out cause the pulley's bearing would make a rattle like sound every now and then. So I figure with the heat/heavy humidity here in N.Y. it was gonna happen. So now I'm gonna replace with a new pump/thermostat and change the belts since they gotta come off anyway. So how is changing out the pump? No gasket just ATV sealant or both? What about the timing belt and drive belt? Any suggestions, I'm more concerned with timing belt than the pump though. Anyway I'd appreciate any info/suggestions on either or both, thanks, Shiloh..
#2
rtv alone is fine
if you even have the slightest suspicion that antifreeze might have gotten on your timing belt, change it. $100 for a belt and tensioner now vs risking a $$$ and lots of downtime if the belt does snap is pretty cheap insurance.
if you even have the slightest suspicion that antifreeze might have gotten on your timing belt, change it. $100 for a belt and tensioner now vs risking a $$$ and lots of downtime if the belt does snap is pretty cheap insurance.
#5
in addition, the t-belt comes out, anyway, so it's not extra work, aside from the purchase of a few more parts.
#6
150,000 miles ya might want to take a peek at the cam seal/s. If theres oil seepage behind the cams timing pulley change the cam seals while your in there. Ya just remove the cam pulley and pry the old seal out with a seal puller. Make sure you have a strap wrench to hold back on the pulley while loosening the center nut. Cheap preventive maint. even if it's not leaking, cause it soon will.
#7
150,000 miles ya might want to take a peek at the cam seal/s. If theres oil seepage behind the cams timing pulley change the cam seals while your in there. Ya just remove the cam pulley and pry the old seal out with a seal puller. Make sure you have a strap wrench to hold back on the pulley while loosening the center nut. Cheap preventive maint. even if it's not leaking, cause it soon will.
#8
Good luck to you brother its not as easy as one might suspect to change a water pump on a car like ours..Nissan didnt give us much room on the passanger side of the motorbay to work on stuff on the other hand on the drivers side theres about 8 inches of clear open space.. i think they could of designed that 1 a little better but anyway ive heard that jacking the passanger side of the car up taking the tire off and working in the wheelwell gives plenty of room but i tried it before without any success. I couldnt even get the black timing belt covers off with out ringing off a bolt so i just said forget it and took it to a shop to do.. only took them about a half a day so with good mechanic skills(which i guess i dont have)you can get everythign changed in a few hours but if this is your first time digging this deep into your motor then be advised you might need a couple days to do this project..Its amazing how easy it is to do tho when the motor is out lol, my orig motor just locked up on me so im int he middle of getting the whole thing replaced, I wateched the guy take it all apart and put it to gether like it was nothing...but anyways its always a good idea to change out seals and any other odds and ends in there WHILE your in there because you dont want to make this project a yearly habbit...it will get old quick. O and dont go to nissan for the sealent for the waterpump/oilpan The silicon sealent is 20 bucks a tube.....Not to mention for the 2 horseshoe gaskets for the oil pan they wanted 60 for both...Stealership
#9
Good luck to you brother its not as easy as one might suspect to change a water pump on a car like ours..Nissan didnt give us much room on the passanger side of the motorbay to work on stuff on the other hand on the drivers side theres about 8 inches of clear open space.. i think they could of designed that 1 a little better but anyway ive heard that jacking the passanger side of the car up taking the tire off and working in the wheelwell gives plenty of room but i tried it before without any success. I couldnt even get the black timing belt covers off with out ringing off a bolt so i just said forget it and took it to a shop to do.. only took them about a half a day so with good mechanic skills(which i guess i dont have)you can get everythign changed in a few hours but if this is your first time digging this deep into your motor then be advised you might need a couple days to do this project..Its amazing how easy it is to do tho when the motor is out lol, my orig motor just locked up on me so im int he middle of getting the whole thing replaced, I wateched the guy take it all apart and put it to gether like it was nothing...but anyways its always a good idea to change out seals and any other odds and ends in there WHILE your in there because you dont want to make this project a yearly habbit...it will get old quick. O and dont go to nissan for the sealent for the waterpump/oilpan The silicon sealent is 20 bucks a tube.....Not to mention for the 2 horseshoe gaskets for the oil pan they wanted 60 for both...Stealership
#11
#12
Does it happen when you're just idling or driving in heavy traffic?
To me it sounds like the coolant temperature sensor is bad and is not reporting the proper temperature to turn on the cooling fans when it gets hot enough. Happened to me before.
So take a look at the cooling fans and the temperature sensor to make sure they are working.
To me it sounds like the coolant temperature sensor is bad and is not reporting the proper temperature to turn on the cooling fans when it gets hot enough. Happened to me before.
So take a look at the cooling fans and the temperature sensor to make sure they are working.
#15
yea.. it's most likely just one of the two causing the problem but if you change both at the same you may never know what caused it but you may not care either as long as it's fixed.
#16
I figured it was the WP cause at first my Max was running hot, then I checked coolant level which was low, which led me to believe there was a leak. I found the leak which was coming from right under WP. Next I drained coolant system refilled with new coolant/sealant to no avail. Then I ran my Max til it hit right temp but pump will not pump coolant into engine no more. Not to leave out that the WP pulley has had intermittent sqeaking sound coming from it for a while. I knew it was on it's way out cause she just hit 150000 miles and things are gonna start going. Most of my engine is original except for what I wanted to upgrade for performance reasons and that's all.
#17
If anyone's still interested I'm finally doing water pump today, finally got time and money to do it. Yeah and it's fcukin' HOTT!! The humidity over has been really bad this summer, even worse than last year, worse than normally. Also doing the thermostat which looks like a beotch on these auto's, not to mention the WP is a pain in the assssss!! Any suggestions/tips would be dope/great, thanks, Shiloh.
#20
Well the first signs that the WP was on it's way out was the light scraping noise coming from that area, the bearings were shot causing the inner propeller to rub/scrape inside. Then one day a couple of minutes from home my temp gage jumped up one bar and I knew this was it for the WP. A small leak from the WP was found and I left her parked in driveway like U should until you repair. Do to financial reasons I had 2 wait to do repair/install properly, you know belts,thermostat,good coolant,hoses, you know anything U might want to replace while in there. Taking off the crank pulley is bull**** but I'm lucky I have access 2 impact. Now belt area sound smooth/quiet like it should. I'm use 2 American V8's, this is my first import I've ever owned that I'm doing upgrade's 2 and hooking up 4 the street. Thanks 4 the reply though, Shiloh.
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