whats the best engine & fuel treatment?
my flush was at around 400,000km, VG are tough engines.
07-26-2010, 10:28 PM
#42
ehhh :/ im thinking bout the part where it says "the old stuff in your engine could be sealing things do to the old deposit holding it" what if i flush it and clean it and it takes away all the old build up sealing these things and they leak 
it makes sense if you think about it. FML!!!
it makes sense if you think about it. FML!!!
07-26-2010, 10:44 PM
#43
personally i would still do it. i would myself rather flush it and if somethings up get new seals than just depend on build up sealing things. its up to you whether you want to chance it or not
07-26-2010, 11:11 PM
#44
i have to seriously think about this one. ill probably do it after i fix my 2 bad injectors so this way my engine is running on all 6 cyl when i do it. still debating if i should do the flush myself or have the shop do it.
07-27-2010, 08:40 AM
#47
No thats for engine flushing...Im not sure about Seafoam, or BG44K...I heard they work. But I never used it on my car...I've seen video on Maximas on Youtube, but I always had second thoughts about it.
07-27-2010, 08:53 AM
#48
o ok. so what those videos were about was shops using other chemicals not meant for engines to flush em?
07-27-2010, 09:31 AM
#49
I used the Mystery Oil and it worked perfectly fine. So there. That's old mechanic was right.lol..Well he wasnt that old, was in his late 50's, to a 3yr old thats old..lol
07-27-2010, 02:46 PM
#50
Yeah basically it saying dont trust those shops that say you need a flush when you dont need one. Just change your oil regularly at every interval and you should be fine. I flushed my engine before, I had no problems, but paying $82 dollars is a rip off and BS.
I used the Mystery Oil and it worked perfectly fine. So there. That's old mechanic was right.lol..Well he wasnt that old, was in his late 50's, to a 3yr old thats old..lol
I used the Mystery Oil and it worked perfectly fine. So there. That's old mechanic was right.lol..Well he wasnt that old, was in his late 50's, to a 3yr old thats old..lol
07-28-2010, 12:22 PM
#51
- Well just pour some in your like half a bottle thats if you bought the 32oz bottle after you've done your daily drive for the day.
- Turn the car on let it mix with the used oil you have in your engine.
- Turn it off let it sit overnight.
- Next morning run the engine for 5 minutes or so.
- Then drain the oil, and watch all that stuff come out..your oil will be midnight black.
- Then take off you old filter and let the oil drain out from there also.
- When all the oil is done from dripping or you see small droplets.
- Put the oil pan drain cap back on, put a new oil filter on.
- Then put fresh oil in your engine
- Then put the engine oil cap back on.
- Then start you engine take it for a spin.
Note: Make sure you have a pan on the bottom to catch the oil from from your car. If any spill on to the ground, wipe it up quickly. And since you're from NYC you should know Sanitation always BS us with petty stuff.
07-28-2010, 06:38 PM
#52
I'd like to hear from some other members who have a good amount knowledge in this area because I think there is an overall larger point to be made here which is beginning to be touched on. One does need to determine whether they actually need an engine flush or not. What the vehicle manufacturers are clearly stating is that 1. on newer cars and 2. on vehicles which have had good fuel and regular oil changes.....that these services are not needed. 3. They are also saying that on cars which have significant buildup of sludge, running a flush will loosen particles but not always fully dissolve them which then results in oil passeges becoming blocked or particles causing problems in other areas....oil pump, block oil tube, clog hydrolic lifters, etc.
Therefore on older vehicles where there might be minor sludge, then a flush might be a good idea, but anytime you add a chemical into an engine which is not supposed to be there constantly (ie: oil, water, anti-freeze, gas), then there is some level of risk.
I believe it's been made clear that doing it "just to do it" is impractical financially and potentially harmful.
You don't just automatically dump salt and pepper into your mashed potatoes without tasting it first do you? You check to see if it needs it.
You can easily look through the oil cap and see if there is any build up or dark oily patches on the edges of the head or on/around the cams. You can also obtain some indication by evaluating how quick your oil turns dark and thickens. The more frequent the need for oil changes, the more your engine is running in poor condition and most likely developing/developed a good amount of sludge in the system.
Hopefully, some others can post and better elaborate on some "warning signs" for needing a flush versus simply keeping good maintenance or utilizing a better oil.
Therefore on older vehicles where there might be minor sludge, then a flush might be a good idea, but anytime you add a chemical into an engine which is not supposed to be there constantly (ie: oil, water, anti-freeze, gas), then there is some level of risk.
I believe it's been made clear that doing it "just to do it" is impractical financially and potentially harmful.
You don't just automatically dump salt and pepper into your mashed potatoes without tasting it first do you? You check to see if it needs it.
You can easily look through the oil cap and see if there is any build up or dark oily patches on the edges of the head or on/around the cams. You can also obtain some indication by evaluating how quick your oil turns dark and thickens. The more frequent the need for oil changes, the more your engine is running in poor condition and most likely developing/developed a good amount of sludge in the system.
Hopefully, some others can post and better elaborate on some "warning signs" for needing a flush versus simply keeping good maintenance or utilizing a better oil.
07-28-2010, 10:36 PM
#53
- Well just pour some in your like half a bottle thats if you bought the 32oz bottle after you've done your daily drive for the day.
- Turn the car on let it mix with the used oil you have in your engine.
- Turn it off let it sit overnight.
- Next morning run the engine for 5 minutes or so.
- Then drain the oil, and watch all that stuff come out..your oil will be midnight black.
- Then take off you old filter and let the oil drain out from there also.
- When all the oil is done from dripping or you see small droplets.
- Put the oil pan drain cap back on, put a new oil filter on.
- Then put fresh oil in your engine
- Then put the engine oil cap back on.
- Then start you engine take it for a spin.
Note: Make sure you have a pan on the bottom to catch the oil from from your car. If any spill on to the ground, wipe it up quickly. And since you're from NYC you should know Sanitation always BS us with petty stuff.
- Turn the car on let it mix with the used oil you have in your engine.
- Turn it off let it sit overnight.
- Next morning run the engine for 5 minutes or so.
- Then drain the oil, and watch all that stuff come out..your oil will be midnight black.
- Then take off you old filter and let the oil drain out from there also.
- When all the oil is done from dripping or you see small droplets.
- Put the oil pan drain cap back on, put a new oil filter on.
- Then put fresh oil in your engine
- Then put the engine oil cap back on.
- Then start you engine take it for a spin.
Note: Make sure you have a pan on the bottom to catch the oil from from your car. If any spill on to the ground, wipe it up quickly. And since you're from NYC you should know Sanitation always BS us with petty stuff.
07-28-2010, 11:15 PM
#54
I'd like to hear from some other members who have a good amount knowledge in this area because I think there is an overall larger point to be made here which is beginning to be touched on. One does need to determine whether they actually need an engine flush or not. What the vehicle manufacturers are clearly stating is that 1. on newer cars and 2. on vehicles which have had good fuel and regular oil changes.....that these services are not needed. 3. They are also saying that on cars which have significant buildup of sludge, running a flush will loosen particles but not always fully dissolve them which then results in oil passeges becoming blocked or particles causing problems in other areas....oil pump, block oil tube, clog hydrolic lifters, etc.
Therefore on older vehicles where there might be minor sludge, then a flush might be a good idea, but anytime you add a chemical into an engine which is not supposed to be there constantly (ie: oil, water, anti-freeze, gas), then there is some level of risk.
I believe it's been made clear that doing it "just to do it" is impractical financially and potentially harmful.
You don't just automatically dump salt and pepper into your mashed potatoes without tasting it first do you? You check to see if it needs it.
You can easily look through the oil cap and see if there is any build up or dark oily patches on the edges of the head or on/around the cams. You can also obtain some indication by evaluating how quick your oil turns dark and thickens. The more frequent the need for oil changes, the more your engine is running in poor condition and most likely developing/developed a good amount of sludge in the system.
Hopefully, some others can post and better elaborate on some "warning signs" for needing a flush versus simply keeping good maintenance or utilizing a better oil.
Therefore on older vehicles where there might be minor sludge, then a flush might be a good idea, but anytime you add a chemical into an engine which is not supposed to be there constantly (ie: oil, water, anti-freeze, gas), then there is some level of risk.
I believe it's been made clear that doing it "just to do it" is impractical financially and potentially harmful.
You don't just automatically dump salt and pepper into your mashed potatoes without tasting it first do you? You check to see if it needs it.
You can easily look through the oil cap and see if there is any build up or dark oily patches on the edges of the head or on/around the cams. You can also obtain some indication by evaluating how quick your oil turns dark and thickens. The more frequent the need for oil changes, the more your engine is running in poor condition and most likely developing/developed a good amount of sludge in the system.
Hopefully, some others can post and better elaborate on some "warning signs" for needing a flush versus simply keeping good maintenance or utilizing a better oil.
in the auto report is states that in 2002 the car passed EMISSION INSPECTION and SAFETY INSPECTION @ 185,451 miles on it.
so im not sure if i need an engine flush i was just wondering if i should get one do to not knowing what the car has been through. im holding back right now till i find out if i have sludge or not and till i fix my 2 bad injectors so this way i can feel the difference.
07-29-2010, 12:24 AM
#55
In regards to fuel treatment, I use Valvoline Fuel Injector cleaner every oil change
and I've done seafoam to both my 3rd and 4th gen through the brake booster hose, both felt nice and responsive however I did notice my engines BOTH got louder within the next couple thousand miles and I think it could've been related to the seafoam. Perhaps removing that gunk that holds everything in place made the engines louder especially considering ones at 200k and the other at 335k lol
and I've done seafoam to both my 3rd and 4th gen through the brake booster hose, both felt nice and responsive however I did notice my engines BOTH got louder within the next couple thousand miles and I think it could've been related to the seafoam. Perhaps removing that gunk that holds everything in place made the engines louder especially considering ones at 200k and the other at 335k lol
07-29-2010, 01:25 AM
#56
im the 3rd owner of the car. i have no clue what the previous owners have done to the car or how they took care of it. the miles on the car shows 30860 so i dont know how many miles exactly are on it, its a digital dash so i dont see how the numbers could have been rolled back unless they put a new engine on it.
in the auto report is states that in 2002 the car passed EMISSION INSPECTION and SAFETY INSPECTION @ 185,451 miles on it.
so im not sure if i need an engine flush i was just wondering if i should get one do to not knowing what the car has been through. im holding back right now till i find out if i have sludge or not and till i fix my 2 bad injectors so this way i can feel the difference.
in the auto report is states that in 2002 the car passed EMISSION INSPECTION and SAFETY INSPECTION @ 185,451 miles on it.
so im not sure if i need an engine flush i was just wondering if i should get one do to not knowing what the car has been through. im holding back right now till i find out if i have sludge or not and till i fix my 2 bad injectors so this way i can feel the difference.
Last edited by Hectic; 07-29-2010 at 01:29 AM.
07-29-2010, 11:29 AM
#57
The digital odometer reverts to 0 at 200k miles. The hundred-thousand segment is only capable of displaying a "1", therefore it doesn't go higher than 199999. Flip it to KM and it should read ~171533 on its second pass (200k km + 171,533). There are 230860 miles on your car (unless the cluster has been swapped). Also, replacing an engine isn't an acceptable reason to roll back an odometer. It's there to show how many miles are on the entire car, not just the engine.
this is good to know cuz now i dont feel like my car has 400k lol cuz i never knew. thanks bro.
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