Hey everyone. Just bought a engine hoist. Soon as it gets here im going to pull my motor out. When its out im going to put on a new oil pan, and make some solid motor and tranny mounts. Since im going to have it out does anyone know any ideas i could do to it while its out for a quick upgrade? Just thought id ask. Its allready got a new timing belt, rear main seal, water pump, and stuff like that. I was just lookin for some upgrades. thanks

 

Custom exhaust manifolds and turbo setup, bore cylinders, new pistons, cams, valves and springs, purple top injectors, racing clutch, lightened flywheel, underdrive pulley, complete transmission rebuild, paint the engine bay, what do you want people to say?

I think you should just make sure the engine and engine bay sparkle before you reinstall it. Sounds like you have the most important stuff covered, you should replace the tensioner when you do the timing belt and pump though.

 

I'm not even sure if you left something out of that list up there. I don't even know what the fuuck to say anymore, peace out!!!

Oh yeah, why are you pulling out the motor? Just for motor mounts and oil pan?

 

do the crank angle sensor as well. you might have to search around for one though because when i got my engine redone i tried to find one and no suppliers in Canada had one

 

I allready got a crank angle sensor put in. And yea, im puttin on a oil pan and dont wanna pull oout the cross member. and with the motor out i can find my oil leak. i cant see where its at but i know its on the pulley side of the engine. And like youve said i want to clean everything up nice. but yea it'll be fun haha. That first list was good, but i dont want to rebuild it lol i just thought maybe there were some bolt on parts that add some power that isent extremely exspensive.

 

y-pipe, cai, udp, fidanza flywheel.
as cheap as you can get, and be real upgrades.

 

what are the CAI and UDP

 

i got cold air

 

You really can't be serious my dude, you can change oil pan from underneath. Unless your planning on doing some major rebuilding, if your pulling the motor you should already have a game plan. Not to leave out that if you posses the knowledge to pull an engine you should already know what your going to do to her. Don't tell me your gonna pull a fuuckin' engine just to change an oil pan, come on my dude you gotta have other plans for her!!.

 

^^^ agreed if anything id hook the hoist up to the motor for support and unhook the crossmember.. you will have to unhook it anyway to get the motor out, but i would definitly not be considering pulling the perfectly good engine just to to a pan swap and to look for a leak... if the leak is coming from the pulley side its ur main seal probibly...

 

so what brand of crank angle sensor did you get?

 

He keeps sending me pms. I have a full turbo kit ready to ship to him if he ever comes up with the cash.

 

mang you summed it up

 

Best advise on this thread yet!..Way to put some knowledge on that one

 

Oh deffinetly, i have a leak on my pulley side i cant see or get to, and im cleanin up the bay and makin some solid mounts.

 

Can i put in a main seal with the motor in the car? the leak is on the lower half, toward the back of the car more on the pulley side.

 

You might have to take the splash guard out

 

noooo i cant see. And does anyone know what would be leaking???

 

Did you check the valve covers? Sometimes they can lead you to think it's something else. If your really going to lift engine out then you'll find your leak, so why bother asking where the leak is since your pulling motor out.

 

Well if you've never pulled an engine before and want the experience, go for it. After doing it a couple times, I would rather not. I even have a brand new hoist sitting unopened in the box since last year. You should get an engine stand too.

 

i have a new hoist also, but now that i looked into it the mototrs stayin in. im gonnalift it up a little, take the mototr mount bolts out, and drop the cross member. then hope someone on here can help me find my leak and know how to fix it with the motor in. And since im makin solid motor mounts, would anyone recomend the tranny mounts to? im thinking about doing thos since there not to hard to get at.

 

I suggest you replace the four bushings in the cross member this will isolate a lot of vibration off the chassis. I gooped up my mounts with poly and did the said bushings and I have zero vibration. And as a preventative kinda thing you should change out the exhaust manifold studs, that's a known VG issue.

 

check your valve cover gaskets, just to be safe. also power steering pump usually leaks on these cars and then you have cam shaft seals that leak all the way down making you think its the front main seal and its not. but since you said that you did the timing belt already you should have done the timing belt tensioner, tensioner stud, cam shaft seals and front main seal. never go the cheap route when doing something so delicate as the timing components. i learned the hard way and was lucky that i didn't blow my engine when the tensioner took a ****. i went ahead and replaced everything with Nissan OEM parts, replaced timing belt, cam shaft seals, front main seal, water pump, thermostat, tensioner, tensioner spring and both studs with washer and nuts. but since you will remove your engine from engine bay, go for it and while there look for your leak and change all vacuum hoses and all other hoses as well. have fun.

 

i looked today and there is oil around my valve cover but im not sure if its it.

 

This is why I posted this, imagine trying to pull your motor to find out it's just valve cover gaskets or loose VC bolts.

 

Exactly. Thank you very very much lol. Im gonna replace the oil pan, and if when i park it theres oil on the ground, ill know its not the valve cover cause that will only leak while the engine is running, and if it does leak parked it'd only be a drop. But anyways i pulled the cross member, motor mounts, and trany mounts today. But as soon as the last tranny bolts came out it jumped away from the bracket so i have no idea what im gonna do to get it back. I also made the solid mounts. so tomarrow morning they should be hard. Anyone know anything the VGs are known for to go bad so i can replace it while i have access to the bottom of the motor? thanks!

 

For now why don't you just make sure the valve cover bolts are tight, they will leak when running cause of the pressure. If thats the case then just reseal and you'll be good to go my dude.

 

i just bought a valve cover gasket set from rock auto, so ill see if it completly stops now.