camber bolt question
camber bolt question
alright so i got my suspension work done, new tie rods, ball joint, control arms, sway bar mounts and Ksport GT drop. i know i need to get an alignment after, but i guess i need camber bolts as well.
i searched and looked up for a bit what camber bolts are, but my question is can i get an alignment, drive for a bit and then add camber bolts? or do the camber bolts have to be on before an alignment? everyone says they would have to order in the bolts, would anything get screwed up if i got an alignment tomorrow and added the bolts when they come in next week? thanks
EDIT- tire wear doesnt matter either, my tires are toast anyways
i searched and looked up for a bit what camber bolts are, but my question is can i get an alignment, drive for a bit and then add camber bolts? or do the camber bolts have to be on before an alignment? everyone says they would have to order in the bolts, would anything get screwed up if i got an alignment tomorrow and added the bolts when they come in next week? thanks

EDIT- tire wear doesnt matter either, my tires are toast anyways
Last edited by chrome91; Aug 10, 2010 at 09:24 AM.
adding the bolts will drastically change the alignment.
if your tires are crap, just get the bolts and do the alignment once you have them installed.
personally I hate camber bolts.. I did a cheap ($1) workaround that works better.
remove the knuckle from the strut assy (might be easier to just remove the front strut) and then slot the upper strut mount hole so it's an oval- think sideways O... use a wire wheel and remove the paint off the strut around the holes and then add a washer that snugly fits the stock bolts. (try a 7/16" washer, or buy some smaller ones and drill them out to 12mm so it's a tight fit.)
reinstall strut assembly with washers on both sides of top bolt.
go get alignment. to change camber, loosen both bolts and adjust camber. retighten bolts and check specs. adjust till you're happy. When its where you want, torque the **** out of them suckers and finish alignment.
Then drive VERY carefully to a muffler/welding shop and have the washers tack-welded onto the strut housings to lock your camber in place.
let it cool and repaint the struts so they don't rust.
voila.
if your tires are crap, just get the bolts and do the alignment once you have them installed.
personally I hate camber bolts.. I did a cheap ($1) workaround that works better.
remove the knuckle from the strut assy (might be easier to just remove the front strut) and then slot the upper strut mount hole so it's an oval- think sideways O... use a wire wheel and remove the paint off the strut around the holes and then add a washer that snugly fits the stock bolts. (try a 7/16" washer, or buy some smaller ones and drill them out to 12mm so it's a tight fit.)
reinstall strut assembly with washers on both sides of top bolt.
go get alignment. to change camber, loosen both bolts and adjust camber. retighten bolts and check specs. adjust till you're happy. When its where you want, torque the **** out of them suckers and finish alignment.
Then drive VERY carefully to a muffler/welding shop and have the washers tack-welded onto the strut housings to lock your camber in place.
let it cool and repaint the struts so they don't rust.
voila.
yeah i guess from my ball joint, tie rods, and control arms being bad the front wheels had a half inch wobble so they have horrible uneven wear.
i'll think on which way to go in terms of your way or camber bolts, but would i be wrecking anything if i drive without camber bolts or an alignment for a bit? its about a half hour drive to get the car to my place tonight, then i'll be out of town from Thurs-Sun (car will be in the garage at home though) and next week the drive to get the bolts and an alignment. i wouldnt mind taking it for a wash tomorrow because its been sitting outside for almost 2 weeks while the works been done, i can skip it if its wrecking something though
i'll think on which way to go in terms of your way or camber bolts, but would i be wrecking anything if i drive without camber bolts or an alignment for a bit? its about a half hour drive to get the car to my place tonight, then i'll be out of town from Thurs-Sun (car will be in the garage at home though) and next week the drive to get the bolts and an alignment. i wouldnt mind taking it for a wash tomorrow because its been sitting outside for almost 2 weeks while the works been done, i can skip it if its wrecking something though
personally I hate camber bolts.. I did a cheap ($1) workaround that works better.
remove the knuckle from the strut assy (might be easier to just remove the front strut) and then slot the upper strut mount hole so it's an oval- think sideways O... use a wire wheel and remove the paint off the strut around the holes and then add a washer that snugly fits the stock bolts. (try a 7/16" washer, or buy some smaller ones and drill them out to 12mm so it's a tight fit.)
reinstall strut assembly with washers on both sides of top bolt.
go get alignment. to change camber, loosen both bolts and adjust camber. retighten bolts and check specs. adjust till you're happy. When its where you want, torque the **** out of them suckers and finish alignment.
Then drive VERY carefully to a muffler/welding shop and have the washers tack-welded onto the strut housings to lock your camber in place.
let it cool and repaint the struts so they don't rust.
voila.
remove the knuckle from the strut assy (might be easier to just remove the front strut) and then slot the upper strut mount hole so it's an oval- think sideways O... use a wire wheel and remove the paint off the strut around the holes and then add a washer that snugly fits the stock bolts. (try a 7/16" washer, or buy some smaller ones and drill them out to 12mm so it's a tight fit.)
reinstall strut assembly with washers on both sides of top bolt.
go get alignment. to change camber, loosen both bolts and adjust camber. retighten bolts and check specs. adjust till you're happy. When its where you want, torque the **** out of them suckers and finish alignment.
Then drive VERY carefully to a muffler/welding shop and have the washers tack-welded onto the strut housings to lock your camber in place.
let it cool and repaint the struts so they don't rust.
voila.
i did put a white paint mark so i could easily see if they spun any
seem fine for the last 1\2 year or so.....harsh roads around here too
and im on sprint springs and ancient tokico blues that came on my old white 92 gxe like 10 years ago ,lol
haha sorry for the noob questions, i didnt have a chance to reply to this thread at work and got the car right after and asked him.
it feels AMAZING to be on the new setup. he wants to do some more work on it next week so i probably will just get the camber bolts and alignment then. hes looking for a set of wheels for me as well. i definitely can feel the need for an alignment though lol
it feels AMAZING to be on the new setup. he wants to do some more work on it next week so i probably will just get the camber bolts and alignment then. hes looking for a set of wheels for me as well. i definitely can feel the need for an alignment though lol
I thought I had to get camber bolts....but I completly changed all the components on the front end to include new struts...it was ice..and my boy at the alignment shop said I didn't need to get camber bolts because I didnt have an aggressive drop on the max (1.5)..so old components did make her sag like an old lady..changed her out..and boy she's like new..not to mention last weeks change of the front bearings after 255K..tell your alignment guy to be honset..you may be o.k.!
yeah this is a 2" drop so im in the crazy zone for 3rd gens lol. the guy that did all of my work said to see if i can get camber bolts, if not he can rig it up himself.
its just wicked to not have crazy bodyroll anymore or be embarrassed with that horrible wheel gap
its just wicked to not have crazy bodyroll anymore or be embarrassed with that horrible wheel gap
alright i know pics are wanted 
info- he did use my KYB struts, i looked all over North America and the guy at Shox.com looked as well and all we could find are KYB's. my KYB are a little over 2 years old, but in good shape. i may try to find AGX, if not i'll keep using KYB. this thing handles like a dream now, the guy who did the work is going to help me find some racing rims and roll my fenders and try to get 245's on.
thanks go to NYCInk for finding me the suspension kit, and esp. JSMax for recommending his mechanic and all the info. his mechanic did all of my engine work and the suspension work
before, GXE springs-

now, Ksport GT 2" drop-



info- he did use my KYB struts, i looked all over North America and the guy at Shox.com looked as well and all we could find are KYB's. my KYB are a little over 2 years old, but in good shape. i may try to find AGX, if not i'll keep using KYB. this thing handles like a dream now, the guy who did the work is going to help me find some racing rims and roll my fenders and try to get 245's on.
thanks go to NYCInk for finding me the suspension kit, and esp. JSMax for recommending his mechanic and all the info. his mechanic did all of my engine work and the suspension work
before, GXE springs-

now, Ksport GT 2" drop-


It's not lower in the back, nice!
I think those are listed at 2.2" drop up front, 2.0" in the back (or something), looks more like 1.7" ish up front and 1.5" ish in back - looks good
Me no likey your fogs, though
I think those are listed at 2.2" drop up front, 2.0" in the back (or something), looks more like 1.7" ish up front and 1.5" ish in back - looks good
Me no likey your fogs, though
the story on the fogs is before i joined the site, i saw that pic of Greenies 3rd gen on that slope with fogs and thought may as well add fogs. added the small ones, then, i learned that most GXE's are prewired and you can just add SE fogs 
i want a Stillen kit now, but im worried about the front. my driveway/the crappy roads here would make it garbage in minutes
weird question, but does anyone even want stock GXE springs anymore? if not, scrap metal time

i want a Stillen kit now, but im worried about the front. my driveway/the crappy roads here would make it garbage in minutes
weird question, but does anyone even want stock GXE springs anymore? if not, scrap metal time
Good part about the stillen lip kit is its polyurethane and will withstand abuse way better than fiberglass, i would definitly get the kit tho if your thinking about it, and yea about the fogs....i would settle with none b4 them :P but yea i got mine at walmart for 20 bucks and they resemble the SE oem ones...
but wouldnt it rip off if you hit a nasty speedbump? a snowplow hit my driveway and ripped away asphalt too so theres a 3" curb and a slope to get up
priority is i have to get my crankshaft pulley looked at again and brake lines looked at next week, then hopefully do the fender rolling/new rims and afterwards get a quote for a custom CF hood and try to find a Stillen kit
priority is i have to get my crankshaft pulley looked at again and brake lines looked at next week, then hopefully do the fender rolling/new rims and afterwards get a quote for a custom CF hood and try to find a Stillen kit
during last winter while it was wet and icy put side i was leaving my college class 1 night and slid right into the curb at an angle tho so really it hit my lip and tire but didnt do any damage to the kit at all but you seem to have a little work ahead of you best of luck man
thanks. i might go for the kit then if it can take a few hits
the power steering system needs fixing soon (bad leak) and ive got a oil leak as well
the guy that did all of the work told me where to go to start getting into racing next year, but i need to fix the leaks first
the power steering system needs fixing soon (bad leak) and ive got a oil leak as well
the guy that did all of the work told me where to go to start getting into racing next year, but i need to fix the leaks first
Dude +1 for ksport! I think me and you are the only ones running those springs here... but anyways definitely get the stillen kit man... you will love it and it can take the abuse i have the front lip and im dropped on ksport and i havent scraped yet, just drive careful and be easy on rough roads and driveways n stuff and youll be A OK!
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