Greetings all, what's new.

For the past few weeks I've been slowly getting my VE back on the road, fluid change, filters, tires, etc. I even took it on a road trip to South Florida for a little R&D. Getting back in the driver’s seat felt exactly how I remember it felt 3-4yrs ago. It's like putting on that driving glove and remembering how perfectly it fit. Enough with the mushy soap opera talk. The reason I’m posting is because of an intermittent engine miss I’ve recently develop.

I did the usual disconnecting of the coil packs to determine which cylinder had the miss. Cylinder #6 is the culprit. I swap the coil packs between cylinders 4 and 6, the miss stayed at #6. For shiits and giggles I also swap the plugs, the miss stayed the same. This confirms I got a bad injector. I tried swapping the injectors but both injectors were pretty solid in the rail; they will twist but not pop out. I was using a pliers and it started to chip the injector housing so I stop trying.

My local parts store wants $78 per injector and it’s a Sorensen brand. What other Nissan models use the same injectors as the VE?

 

Hey man! Glad to see you back on the 3rd gen!

Anyway, 4th gens use the same injector, and will likely be your best bet of finding spare injectors. Everytime I'm at the junkyard, I swipe as many 4th gen injectors as I can

There's a ton of other Nissans/Infinitis that use the same injector - the 1990's Infiniti G20, the J30, late 90's Q45, 93-97 Altimas, 91-99 Sentras, and maybe a few more I'm forgetting

What was the R&D?

 

do VE and VG share injectors? i doubt it but just wondering. haha

 

nope i dont think they share the same injectors...if you want to save a bit of money my uncle had the same problem but he went down and got his injector(s) cleaned and this solved the problem.

 

Thanks James, it's good to be back. The more I drive this car, the more other driveability issues slowly start coming. Example, after driving to work this morning and in the employees parking lot, I can feel the engine wanting to pull while I was parking. Put it in neutral and sure enough the engine would idle at 1500rpm. Hit the throttle a few time to make sure it wasn't cable related. Nothing, it still idled at 1500. It wasn't until after I shut the engine off/on when the idle returned to normal. I figured no big deal, maybe it was injector related. At least it's an injector on the left bank that's bad.

BTW, all that's needed to remove a VE injector is a phillip screwdriver to remove the hold down plate. Is that all you need for a 4th gen injector? Don't want to be unprepared at the salvage yard. And the R&D I did in S. Florida was re-upholster my seats. Sorry it's not the R&D you had invision

 

Hi 'Candiman'
I am in Charlotte, NC too (and oddly enough, fighting fuel injector problems too!). I've got one bad #3 or #5 (can't remember). Beautiful ride you have!

I have a '90 VG and I'm gearing up to tear it down next week. I'll be working out in the street, praying nobody calls code enforcement. I wound up buying the $15 new Beck Arnley injector from the forum member in Richmond and it should be here today. I never considered upgrading my VG injectors (don't know if there's a better one I should consider. Comments anyone?)

Mind if I give you a shout if things go heywire? Any 'pre-surgery' advice is much appreciated. I'm sweating just changing one, as opposed to all, but I ohm out OK on all others and with 230K, I figured I'd hedge my bets. If I'm wrong, I guess I know the drill when I do it again. Having them all cleaned off the engine is an option I guess, but I'm skeptical. Would like to take somewhere local if so.

 

I know this is off base but what kind of ground affect kit is that on that white Max inda pics?

 

Stillen kit on Candiman's car, because he has good taste

But dang, you guys are jinxing me. I went this morning to go walk my friend and his wife's dogs while they're out of town and the blue VE was missing BAD and had no power. Pulled the coils pack harnesses to determine which cylinder it is, then swapped around the coil packs and it didn't change on the bad cylinder. Busted out the multimeter, and the injector on that cylinder is showing 2043 ohms , while all the others are showing 11.3

Argh. Thankfully, it's on the front bank

Ended up driving the black VE, which I haven't hardly driven in months, so I guess it's good I was "forced" to drive it since otherwise it'd just sit some more

 

Damn James, and here I am getting ready to ask if you want to sell one of your 4th gen injectors. I just came back from the salvage yard. They had 1 VE and a couple 4th gens. The injectors on the VE were butchered, looked like someone was trying to remove them. One of the 4th gen had stripped hold down screws, so I attempted to remove an injector from the other 4th gen. The results were the same when I tried removing my injector. I got it to twist and rock, but it would not pop out. I even had a can of penetrating oil while in the salvage yard and no luck. The harder I tried, the more the housing would crack.

I even tried pulling the 4th gen fuel rail (with the injectors still inside) and tried giving it love taps with a rag over the tip to see if they would pop free. No luck, it started cracking the tip.

James, do you have a technique on pulling the injectors? The VE that started missing on you, do you know if it has all original injectors? All my injectors are original (157,000) and I would hate to go through the hassle of replacing one injector only to have another injector go bad in the near future.

Shiit like this makes you want to buy all new injectors, pull the rail and drill them out. Oh well, time to post in the classified forum.

Greg, are you aware that replacing right bank injectors on a VG require removing the intake plenum? I just wanted to make sure you're aware since you're doing yours outside on the street and you're worried about code enforcement. I'm in the Steele Creek area of Charlotte. Drop me a email and maybe we can work something out.

 

i think i used my panel popper tool with one hand to pry them up and out in

combination with pulling up with the other hand or some pliers

the panel popper tool is like a bent and forked wide flat screwdriver

also did you know you can ohm test the rear bank of injectors by
unplugging the rear injector harness from the main engine harness
over by the vtc area

 

The VE with the injector that went bad is from the JDM VE I've had for years (and just installed a year or so ago), so I have no clue how many miles are on it

Sure I've got an injector for you.. I'll PM you

I already got mine changed. Took me not even 15 minutes.

It can be kind of hard to get them out. Here's what I normally do:

First of all, you need a nice Phillips to get the caps off. If somebody has already FUBAR'd the caps, then you're kind of SOL (unless you wanted to buy the whole rail). If you get a proper fitting Phillips, and push straight down on it while turning I'm always able to break them free without stripping them.

Then twist the injector around to break it "free". Twist it back and forth, back and forth, over and over. I normally put a shop towel/rag over it because that hurts your fingers like heck after messing with it. Sometimes, just twisting it back and forth and pulling up at the same time you can get them out, but not very often.

There's two little cut-outs on the side that you can use to pry up with. I use a narrow flat-head screwdriver, but lots of stuff will work, basically anything that will fit in there. You have to be careful though, because if you pry up too hard you can break it. I also usually lay a wrench between the fuel rail and the front valve cover to serve as a fulcrum (otherwise you don't really have any leverage to pry up).



I normally pry a little on each side. Pry on one side, twist it around, pry on the other, etc.

Once all of this has gotten the injector raised up just a tad (and it should), you can pry on this section. This section is pretty strong so you can pry pretty hard.



Last thing I'll try if it's really stuck, is wrapping the whole red section pretty well as sort of "protection", and then using some needle nose to clamp down on it and twist and pull up on it (can also pry with the other hand).

Doing all this (or combinations) you can always get the injector out of the rail. Just takes alot of patience and gentle pressure/prying, twisting it a bit, some more prying, etc.

There's got to be some sort of tool that could be modified/created to work to lift these injectors out. Kind of just like some normal pliers, with maybe plastic tips/barbs that point inwards and could fit into those two holes on the side. Then just twist and pull up. That should work great. Not sure if such a tool exists, but a few more of these and I'll want to fab one up

 

James, thanks for the advise on pulling the injector I read your PM. I got another salvage yard to visit. Let me see what I can do when using your method. If all else fails I'll reply to your PM.

 

The injectors that was in the classified for $10.00 I got them, all six with rails and fuel pressure regulator and they all measure in spec and minute variation from each other .

 

Update, my injector have been replaced. Went to another salvage yard this morning and with James advise, I was a injector popping fool. Which was a good thing, because when I got home, two injectors ohm bad. Now I have a few spares for that next time. The VE and 4th gen injectors might be the same, but they have different injector caps. Don't let the different cap trick you. The 4th gen injector will drop right in. Also, you may not be able to completely push in and seat the new injector by hand, so use the retaining plate screws and slowly seat the injector.

And most importantly, after you have installed the injector and turned the ignition on to check for leaks, make sure you remove the plug from that cylinder and crank the engine over a few times. When I removed the injector, I didn't realize the excess fuel in the rail went right down the intake manifold and into the cylinder. Went I cranked the engine for the first time, it sounded like the engine hit a brick wall. As soon as I heard it I knew exactly what it was and what caused it. No damage caused, all is well.

Thanks
Mike

 

CandiMan, the method I use for pulling injectors is with a nice set of vice grips/locking pliers. I set them tight enough to grip without breaking the injector and them I twist side to side while pulling, always works like a charm. Same goes for the stripped phillips screws, if they're stripped, just use the vice grips to break it loose and then use the screw driver to get it out.

When I install the injector I moisten the O-ring with a bit of oil so they dont pinch and I place them in the rail, put the vice grips back on and just twist and push until its in.

James, KA24DE and SR20DE injectors might look the same as the VE30DE & VQ30DE but I think they're different ratings unless you got a source that shows same part numbers

 

Vice Grips? seriously?

Man up with some pliers. Beast man that ****. I was pussying around with screwdriver too in those holes... just ripped it right off.

 

Pliers??? SERIOUSLY?

1. You can accidentally squeeze while yanking/ its not a fixed grip

2. Pliers can slip off with more ease than vice grips

3. Work smarter, not harder; no need man beast anything other than ones G/F

 

Yep, Candiman, I know I've got to remove/replace all that stuff. I'm kinda joking about code enforcement. Although when I put in the tranny (on the street), I had a cop swing by 1hr. before turning the key, inquiring when all 4 wheels would be on the ground.

I'm sensing the VG injectors are diff. from the VE's, eh? Would like to ask about junkyards here in town, as I may decide to go fishing for some VG's and you may already know where some are. So yours are already done?!? That's awesome! I'm still fretting... I'll send you a PM.

Great photos & dialog, guys!

 

Straight from Rock Auto's catalog, all of these are the same part number

INFINITI G20 (1991 - 1999)
INFINITI G20 T (1995 - 1996)
INFINITI I30 (1996 - 1999)
INFINITI J30 (1993 - 1997)
INFINITI Q45 (1997 - 2001)
NISSAN 200SX (1995 - 1998)
NISSAN 200SX SE 1995
NISSAN 200SX SE-R (1996 - 1998)
NISSAN 240SX (1991 - 1998)
NISSAN 240SX LE (1991 - 1997)
NISSAN 240SX SE (1991 - 1997)
NISSAN 300ZX (1993 - 1996)
NISSAN 300ZX 2+2 (1993 - 1996)
NISSAN ALTIMA (1998 - 1999)
NISSAN ALTIMA GLE (1993 - 1997)
NISSAN ALTIMA GXE (1993 - 1997)
NISSAN ALTIMA SE (1993 - 1997)
NISSAN ALTIMA XE (1993 - 1997)
NISSAN MAXIMA 1999
NISSAN MAXIMA GLE (1995 - 1998)
NISSAN MAXIMA GXE (1995 - 1998)
NISSAN MAXIMA SE (1992 - 1998)
NISSAN NX (1991 - 1993)
NISSAN SENTRA (1991 - 1999)
NISSAN SENTRA SER (1991 - 1994)

 

The holy grail of injector list (for my VE anyway) I’ll make sure to keep this list handy whenever I visit the yard.

 

yes, thank you for the list!

Not that I want to get that good a tearing down a VG for injector replacement. Raised the white flag of surrender today and took it to a mechanic to have injector installed Too busy with a p.o.s. BMW issue to handle it. Boo....

 

if i have an electrical issue that is affecting my fuel injectors, how would i go about testing my theory?

 

I think I have another injector problem. Last time I did, I paid the Nissan dealer $400 to change just one injector. Want to check the resistance on the injectors that you can get to - left bank. Do the tabs on the electrical connectors bend in or out to release them so you can pull them off.

Also, I think I read somewhere that you can check the resistance on the right bank somehow without removing the intake manifold collector. Is this true? If so, how do you do it?

 

Found out how to check the injectors on the back (right) bank. There is a connector to the front (left) of the No. 1 spark coil. There are four connectors. If you look at the connector with the male contacts and with the boss that the other part that plugs in to the connector snaps into at the top, the connectora are in a square pattern. The two on the top row are A & B and the bottom row C and D. You do your ohm's test with the VOM meter between: B & D = 1, B & C = 3, B & A = 5. In my case the combo for 1 and 3 were 10 -14 Ohms. 5 was about 30.

In the 2, 4, 6 bank, I was able to pull the connectors. 2 and 6 were 10 - 14 Ohms. On 4 there was no continuity. I also ran the test where you pull the connector on the plug coil and No. 4 had no change in idle speed.

I had hoped to be able to just pull the No. 4 injector but I have now buggered up the phillips head screws that hold the injector in. So I imagine I will have to pull the left bank rail. Can you do that without taking the intake manifold collector off?

Also, on the injector with the 30 ohms - will that still work OK?

 

Well I was able to get the phillips head screws out with an impact screwdriver. But, try as I might, I couldn't get the injector out. So, I went ahead and took the left bank fuel rail off and was able to get the injector out. I ordered an injector, O rings and three insulators from the Nissan dealer. Should get the parts next Tuesday or Wednesday.

All the discussion about getting injectors from the junkyard. I can't imagine pulling a single injector out in the field. I can see pulling a complete fuel rail.

 

I've done both. If all three injectors are unmolested I'll grab the while rail. Usually though, one or two of them are hacked up due to people trying to mangle them out and in so in those cases I'll just grab the good one(s)

 

This has been a real nightmare. The new injector leaked. Somehow the bottom O ring must not have seated. So I pulled the rail again to verify it. I hooked up a compressed air line on the end opposite the pressure regulator and pressurized it to about 30 psi. Sure enough the new injector I had installed was leaking air at the bottom. So I loosened the two screws holding the new on in the rail about 1/8 inch to see if the injector would pop out under air pressure. I did move a little but the air leak stopped and the pressure stayed stable. So I screwed down the injector cap and the pressure still held.

So I reinstalled the rail and all the other parts. Well the engine wouldn't start. I kept trying and finally it started with the acellerator pedal depressed. I ran ar full throttle with copious white smoke coming out of the tail pipes and a lot of raw gas. Could I have messed up the pressure regulator?

 

Do they sell the injector tip, that plastic thing that surrounds the injector nozzle.

 

Dealer might sell it but not most parts stores as far as I know.