Changed a coolant hose on the black VE so I can go get it inspected. Trying to bleed it but it doesn't seem to want to. After about 20 minutes jacked up like this, heater on full blast, the fans finally came on. But per the temp gauge the engine isn't warming up at all

 

the typical **** outa the way;
1) coolant sensor (both)
2) is the front end high enough
3) no bhg, right (didn't think so)
4) blah, blah, blah.

honestly, Idk. is it still burping, and is hot air coming out of the vents?

 

I got the front end up even higher now. As high as my jackstands will allow. The bottom of the front fog lights are 26" off the ground

What is bhg?

I don't think I would have a problem with the coolant sensor. I mean, before doing this, my temp gauge was always right in the middle like all my other VE's. But I can't for the life of me get this to "warm up" all the way now.

I'm getting 180 degrees at the center vent, but then again it's 90+ degrees outside

It still "burps" a little when I rev it up for a while

 

bhg is "blown head gasket." not something a 3rd gen gets, and would rule it out, anyway.
been hanging out with the mk3 supra guys too long...

 

Its possible because thats what was wrong with mine when I bought it.

 

Well wouldn't a blown head gasket generally cause the car to run hot/overheat?

My issue is the car doesn't seem to want to heat up to operating temp. Although, if the fans come on, doesn't that mean the thermostat has/had opened?

 

probably a stuck thermostat. My Ve didnt want to bleed too, and warming up too forever. Then i changed it and warm up is about 5 mins.

 

Just a shot inda dark but have U tried keeping the bleeder valves closed, radiator cap on and run her til hot then open the valve a little. Unless that's what your already doin'. Plus if you want her to get hot you could leave heat off and turn on your a/c. Ride around the block and then try.

 

I turned on the A/C and let it run for a solid 15 minutes and the temp gauge still never got above that point.

I'll have to look through my paperwork tonight to make sure, but I'm pretty sure I replaced the thermostat last year when I did the rear injectors, KS, and KS harness

 

If memory serves, there is a bleeder bolt near the coolant temp sensor. I don't remember ever needing to jack them up to fully bleed them, I know if I did I never had to do it that high. Worst comes to worst you could just unbolt the coolant temp sensor. I've done some stubborn cars where on a cold engine I just fill it as much as possible, then run it for a couple minutes and add as needed. Good luck!

 

Because the heater is on full blast. That's done to cool down an overheating engine, not warm it up.

 

There is a bleeder there. Per the FSM, you've merely got to fill the radiator until you get antifreeze coming out of that bleeder, which I did. I jacked it up because I remember seeing all the threads here about needing to do that with the 3rd gen. I've never had any issues with my other VE's and haven't had to jack them up either. I looked through my records and apparently I did not change the thermostat on it so maybe it needs to be replaced.

But doing the heater on full blast is the S.O.P. on bleeding any car coolant system isn't it? It's what I've always done

I also ran the car for nearly half an hour with the A/C on full blast and it still never heated up all the way though.

 

Placing the temp gauge on hot allows the coolant to circulate through the heater core. Turning on the fan cools down the coolant when it's circulating through the heater core. So place it on hot and not turning on the fan is what you need to do. Remember I had that problem...it was the temperature sender not the temperature sensor. The sensor is talking to the ECU or the radiator fans would not activate, the sender is not talking to the gauge...change it!

 

Where is the temperature sender located?

I tried again today by sliding the heater switch all the way to "hot" but did not turn on the fan, and got the same results

*edit*

Found the temp. sender

http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...6133-what.html

Looks cheap enough to buy. I'll just get a new sender, sensor, and t-stat this week and put them all in together

 

Jacking the front end up was discovered to be very helpful on the VG engine. Nissan finally added a bleeder in 93 (I think).

 

I just raise the front end of my TK3 se 5 and idle with radiator cap off til it burps. It's the way i learned at clover park technical college from my 15 year bmw technician Mr. Steve Moeckel. Worked perfectly for me the few times i had to burp my cooling system

 

I think your fine that way. Maybe try driving it around your neighborhood while keeping an eye on the temp gauge? Reason why I think your fine is if you look at the temp gauge in my pic below, thats how its been for over 50k miles, and it still running beautifully at 170k+. Might be cause my car was a "factory freak", but maybe you were lucky enough to find one as well?



Take a look at this thread as well.. Its when I first bought my VE, and posted a question about the gauge as well. Check past post #45. Pervis Anethema said some gauges vary from car to car. Greeny thought it was the t-stat. All I know is in post #52, my damn pics have been hacked! Wtf! Looks like imageshack went bonkers and replaced the pics of my missing fog lights with random **** and a girl sleeping with her dog haha, oh man.. Hey Colombianmax, I know it was you! jk

http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...are-56k-2.html

 

I installed a Nismo 62 degrees celcius t-stat and still run right at operating temperature when warmed up.

 

Mine is like VEvolution where it's not at the middle but a little under it. I don't know why but it keeps bothering me for some reason even tho it never gave me a problem.

 

you cant bleed your VE because cars dont have blood in them

 

Well, I understand the gauge could be off and I wouldn't have an issue with it except for the whole year and a half I've owned it the needle has always been at the halfway point.

That is ever since I changed the coolant hose. So I know it's supposed to be a little higher, ya know?

 

You can actually use a plastic water bottle or 2 liter bottle with the bottom cut off and the top taped up to fit in your radiator cap opening....fill 3/4 of the way squeeze your hoses and place your heater in the full hot position.....My 90 VG has a coolant bleed screw on the very top of the intake....My VG seemed to take a while but the hoses were hot and the thermostat opened and finally circulated the coolant and purged out all the air thru the top and radiator opening

 

Im pretty sure if you had air in the system you would most definitly overheat after you reached operating temps. This is from my experience though. Not sure if this is fact.

 

So is your VE bled? Like someone stated, if your coolant system wasn't bled you would probably overheat. I guess I answered my own question though.

 

ENGINE/DRIVETRAIN (VG30E):
Engine: iron block SOHC V6 with aluminum heads
Bore and stroke 87.0 x 83.0 mm
Displacement: 2960cc 3.0L
Compression: 9.0:1
Max engine speed: 6000 rpm
Power (SAE net): 174 bhp @ 5600 rpm; Torque (SAE net): 186lbs:ft. @ 2800rpm
Zero to 60mph: 8.9 sec
SNowtanding 1/4 mile: 16 sec I know this is off base but I found this about the VG.

 

ENGINE/DRIVETRAIN (VE30DE):
Engine: iron block DOHC V6 with aluminum heads and variable induction
Bore and stroke 93.0 x 73.3 mm
Displacement: 2960cc 3.0L
Compression: 10.0:1
Max engine speed: 6500 rpm
Power (SAE net): 190 bhp @ 5600 rpm; Torque (SAE net): 190lbs:ft. @ 4000rpm
Test Results:
Zero to 60mph: 7.3 sec
S This is the VE at 190bhp and as you can see the VG at 174bhp. Reason I pasted this is cause so many claim the VE is so much faster, when really it's only 14 horses difference.tanding 1/4 mile: 15.7 sec

 

Not sure where you got that info from but I can state unequivocally that the VG 3rd gen does NOT make 174 hp.

I'm also very skeptical of a stock VG running 16 flat. Are you sure you didn't leave a few tenths off of that?

Lastly, the 15.7 1/4 time for the VE was one of the slowest VE times from the magazines back in the day. Most ran between 15.2-15.4

Nonetheless, believe what you want, but stock for stock and mod for mod the VE is markedly faster than the VG.

 

Did I just miss a VG/VE comparison discussion? Sir, all you need to know is the VE can hit close to 150mph, and in good time. Oh, and the VG can't

 

yeah VG's were 160hp, factor in the ones in 3rd gens are now 16-21 years old most are probably making 145-150hp

and built Z31 with VG30E have reached 300km/h. stock VE have more power, but VG's have a larger aftermarket because they were in Mercury Villager, V6 200sx, Z31, Maximas, Nissan Quest, etc. plus theyre easier to turbo because you can use Z31 turbo parts and you dont need as many custom parts like the VE would

 

My radiator sprung a leak last night, so I'm about to go swap one in. Let's see how the system will bleed.

 

Yeah I just wanted 2 see what some of you guys thought about this info I came across on the web. I like both engines but I think the obviuos choice would be the VE cause it has more power. Yes if you want 2 boost then I would say your probably gonna find it a little easier to turbo the VG. I'm assuming most guys like the VE intake more than the VG. My friend has the VE and it's bone stock and yes you can notice a difference but the VG is very powerful for a stock motor.

 

I've had 4 cylinder cars stay with me when I owned my VG auto.. Just sayin

 

Getting back on track...I just got done bleeding a VE5. After parking on an incline and putting the heater on hot, filling slowly and revving, and filling, and revving...an hour or so later I felt I got all the air from the cooling system. She now sits about 1mm below half.

 

That's the way 2 do it , I just never w/any auto had 2 park on an incline but 2 help the air bubbles/pockets along yes it helps. Seems like the VE's need to be bled like this I guess.

 

Lmfao that was funny vg vs ve comparison. Stock vg was when fresh out the factory 162hp at the crank vs 190hp at the crank ve. Nuff said ve pawns vg factory.

 

160hp* for VG.. I think you confused it with the 182 torque

 

I just stumbled across this info and I have seen others say 160hp. I don't know what was up with your VG but no 4bangers without turbo can stay near mine, even b4 I did anything to the intake, fuel pump, engine, suspension and exhaust, oh yeah she's A/T....Just sayin

 

what 4 cylinder cars? theres a huge difference from a stock Civic 4 cylinder and SR20DET CA18DET

lets just say i put a Civic in its place a couple nights ago

 

Your VG is nowhere near fast, calm down.. I've owned the car for 2 years and thought it was fast too till I got myself a VE. I'll never forget the day when I was alone in my VG, and 3 kids in their old *** stock Sentra only lost to my VG by a car length. Over and over again. Nothing was up with my car, but with a mid 16 sec 1/4, theres nothin to get excited about.

 

Listen my dude, I've owned 3 Mustangs, 1 Camaro Z28, Mark 7 LSC and an 86 300zx w/turbo. One of the Mustangs was a 92' Saleen(Official Saleen not look alike) another was a 84' Mustang Cobra and an 86' GT all of them had work done to them. The Saleen was 450whp doing low 12's on street tread, I think I know what fast is. I didn't post the stats to argue which stock 3rdgen is faster, the answer is obvious. I own a 93'Sentra in mint running condition with a brand new exhaust from front pipe to muffler so don't tell that BS about yours, like I said your VG must have been shot, I've driven a stock VE and of course it has more pull. But if you think 20 somethink HP is a big difference you have more 2 learn, I've been around the track many times. I didn't post my original post 2 hurt your feelings about your VE, yse it's a little faster and that's it. I've been in many fast cars and driven many fast cars, my brother owns a Mustang Mach1 with plenty of enhancement, my other ride is a Volvo 850 w/turbo w/upgrades. With that said, you really think your VE is much faster than come on over to NY and let's really see what's hood, I mean what's good!!!