flyry110

anyone know where i can get one? and who makes one? I really want an intake. I'm currently in the process of designing my exhaust, but i need some intake specs first.

thanks

Chris91SE

iTrader: (1)

go to http://www.cattman.com and look at the CAI's....they're made by place racing and cost $215 plus shipping...here are some pics...

<img src="http://www.geocities.com/scorpion66.geo/Car_Pics/cai1.jpg">

<img src="http://www.geocities.com/scorpion66.geo/Car_Pics/cai2.jpg">

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

I'm just going to relocate my Air sensor and run a new pipe in front of the battery and behind the front bumper. I've already cut a hole beside the battery to route the pipe, I'm thinking about trying some 3" exhuast flex and paint it. By the way, anyone know why one of the six wires on the Air sensor wraps around the other two wires in a seperate bundle like an RCA wire? I've already rewired it and haven't noticed any difference, just wondering if it was some sort of shield for the two wires in that seperate bundle to the sensor?

MSK

Hi: How is the performance of your car with CAI installed in the very cold weather?

Chris91SE

iTrader: (1)

i have yet to drive it in extreme cold weather...i installed it back in april and its been warm/hot...recently its been getting cooler (like 50's and 60's)...there has been a noticeable increase in power over the summertime heat....as the winter goes on i'll be able to tell you what its like in the "very" cold weather...

MSK

Thanks chris, Keep us posted. I drive a 90SE peral color, looks sharp. after the exhaust manifolds studs are repaired, I will start installing these upgrades/mods.
MSK

Guest

Chris,
The C.A.I your making. Is it for a DOHC or SOHC? I have a 93 SE and want to do the same thing. What is the reason for relocating the air sensor? Where are you going to cut for the airfilter?

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

Which Chris? This is getting confusing! Just call me Gregg! I'm making it for an '89 SE SOHC. I'm cutting the hole directly behind the driver's headlight bracket in that corner and even cut about 1 1/2 inches off the battery plate on that side so there would be room. I know the hole I made it too big, but I wanted to have some working room and then place a peice of sheet metal back over that area when my pipe is run. Relocating the Maf sensor is just the only way to run a custom line without going ahead and using the oem design. My way, the pipe is no longer than 3 feet tops and has very few small turns, just one at 90 degrees down behind the front bumper. This should increase air flow and speed. I just bought the stuff to sauder the sensor wires today so I'm still running it wire nutted (rigged but I didn't have the tools at the time) it's running fine!

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

The custom run CAI is done and took very little time to do it. I just went to a truck store and bought 2 1/2 feet (really only need about 2 feet)of the 3" flex exhaust pipe, galvanized, just cheaper ($12-)! Bought a 3" rubber connect for PVC pipe from Home Depot ($7). Then took it upon myself to buy some engine primer for heat resistance and six different colored wires to rerun the MAF sensor (Auto Zone $20+/-). I rethought the idea of painting the pipe, it looks fine so I'm not going to. I talked to Nissan, they said that the third, bare wire that wrapped around two of the other five wires was what I thought, an electrical sheild for those two wires. They said that as long as those two wires were isolated, then there really wouldn't be a problem, but, I'm going to run some bar wire and wrap it around the two like it's supposed to be. The temps have been in the 40's and 50's for the last couple of days and my Max feels like it has definately gained some spirit! So, for under $40, I ran it! It doesn't whistle or anything, actually, it doesn't sound different at all! Instead of cutting a hole in the pipe for the hose connection near the thottle body, I just re routed it to the driver's side valve cover line (the one for the rear valve cover). I then just hooked up a filter on the valve cover line so nothing could get into the valves and pressure and heat could still be released. This really only acts as a heater, mostly for the winter so it won't hurt being disconnected. I kept the other side connected since it's getting so cold lately just to be on the safe side.

MSK

Cris: Excellent, post some pictures of the modification so we will get a better picture.

Thanks

MSK 90SE

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

If anyone wants pics, email me. I know that's a pain, but right now that's the best I can do on my schedual. Still no problems with it, just need to sauder the wires to the sensor. I don't foresee any water problems for the filter, but I'll repost if it occurs, it's not rained around here yet, just really cold. Besides, even if the filter gets wet, I'll just add some more oil to it if needed, no water can work it's way up the tube, so again, no worries!

block

hey chris91se i have a q for you. you fstb , the bends are going up. I thought they were supposed to go down. well at first i thought up but when i did that i closed my hood and it bent it up. people told me that the bends in the pipe were supposed to go down. does yours hit the top of the hood?

Isaacm

I have mine up as well. It has to clear over a tube on the passenger side, I think it's A/C. With the bar up, it just barely clears this tube, and mine doesn't hit the hood.
Isaacm '93GXE

FYI...anyone who doesn't have the FSTB, I strongly recommend it!! Great deal from Courtesy, less than $80. One of my passengers even noticed a huge difference.

Chris91SE

iTrader: (1)

no it doesn't hit the hood...its very close...i no longer drop the hood anymore anyway because of this...i shut it gently...just make sure your bar looks like this and you'll be fine...

depending on your perception the bar bends either up or down...like i would say it goes down...just a perception difference...