I'm interested to know what some of you Maxima Enthusiasts here on Maxima.Org think about the different kinds of oils when using them on a 3rdgen Max. I know these days most will say that fully synthetic is the best and this may very well be true but is this true for a 3rgGen.? Most 3rdgens were ran on conventional oil there whole lives due to there age. A new motor should be broken in with conventional until about 5000 miles and then if you want or in some cases should be changed over to Full Synthetic. I want some of your opinions about changing over to Fully Synthetic on a engine with high mileage(150,000 and Up), is this a good idea? What do some of you think about a synthetic/conventional blend? Should someone just leave the engine alone if it's running good with conventional? What brands do you guys like? Due any of you use additives with there oils(example;Lucas Lube Treatment)? Whatever opinions or what not you have about this topic is cool. Personally I feel if your engine is tight/solid and runs very well with low mileage for a 3rdgen Max, then using a Blend and/or Fully Synthetic would be beneficial. I've been running a Synthetic Blend for about 2 years with no complaints. I'm getting ready to step it up a notch and go with Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic, just like I run in my Volvo. Mobil 1 makes a Full Syn for higher mileage vehicles with 75,000 and up. The Volvo has been running on Full Syn for her whole life, except the break in stage and she rums mint for a 97'(like a 07').

 

I don't think anybody would argue that synthetic is ideal. Some people claim that if you run synthetic in an older car that has been running dino that it can "cause leaks". But this is kind of a misnomer in that it can in no way *create* a leak. If anything, it will exacerbate a previous leak which may lead some to believe the synthetic caused the leak. Certainly if you were to switch to synthetic in an older car, you'd want to make sure all your oil seals/gaskets are in good shape.

I bought my old VE 5 (that I sold earlier this year) from a member here. He had it since about '98 or something. I bought it in '02 IIRC. Anyway, he had been running synthetic on it since he got it at ~70k miles or so. And I continued to run it exclusively on synethetic until I sold it with ~196k miles. I can tell you the valvetrain on that sucker looked BRAND NEW. It did have VTC clack and I had to ground the VTCs.

Now, beyond that, I'm not sure there's any tangible difference one could ascertain from just driving it normal conditions. Not many people care how the valvetrain LOOKS.

On the other hand, my current black VE 5 has 173k miles on it and looks to have been not very well taken care of over the years. The valvetrain is a murky dark brown, there's oil caked everywhere, etc. For what it's worth, I've never heard a PEEP of VTC clack since I've owned it (1.5 years now), and it also runs strong as hell.

So, I guess in terms of tangible difference/"results" in my experience it's kind of a crapshoot aside from valvetrain coloring. However, having said that, I'm currently replacing all seals/gaskets on said VE and when I'm done I'll be switching to synthetic. I already run synthetic in my blue VE. I just think that if you're wanting to keep a car LONG TERM (and I mean long term), synthetic undoubtedly provides superior wear protection. Of course, the main must-do is regular interval changes with either dino or synthetic.

Also, personally, I use the WalMart brand Synthetic. Super Tec or something like that. I did a ton of research on it, forum opinions for various cars, and oil spread analysis charts etc and it actually holds its own compared to the big boys. I don't run extended interval changes with it (ie, I still change every 3k miles even with synthetic) though. But you sure can't beat the price. Full synthetic oil change for under $20. Even the Super Tech filter is well-built, anti-drain back valve, etc. Well-informed speculation on the WalMart synethetic is that it's made by Pennzoil or Quaker State. Either way, we can deduce for certain that one of the "big-boys" makes it.

*edit* but yes, to answer one of your questions, if the engine is running great with conventional and you're not doing any overhaul work or anything, why mess with a good thing? I'd leave it be

 

I only have run full syntec in my first, second, and now current Maxima. Up until now all ive run was mobile 1 full syntec with k&n oil filter. Soon to be upgrade my oil to royal purple to see the difference from it and mobile 1. Also my additives are; gunk motor flush to flush the engine each time i change the oil, crc engine restore all, and Lucas full synthetic oil additive.

 

I use to work for Firestone a few years back and one of the Old timers use to always say not to fuuck with a high mileage motors earl either way. I believe as long as the seals are in good shape and it's worth it the owner to invest the extra dough on better oil then go for it. If the vehicle has weak seals or isn't a strong motor then don't waste your chedder, save for another automobile. I believe it's common knowledge that once it's fully synthetic you should never go back to Dino as you call it, good feedback my dude.

 

The deal with syntec is it expands the seals of the engine which helps the motor to not leak. Dino oil is just second rate. If you care bout your vehicles you only give it the best oil treatment. When i picked up my TK3 VE5 in 06 first thing i did was change it right over from whatever the previous owner used to full synthetic mobil 1 i got the car at 175,000 with a jdm swapped motor that probably had 60-70k miles on it. Car now has 237,000 in 4 years of owning it.

 

my oil change once im done with the clutch system and bleeding it with new syntec fluid as well as the whole brake system fluid.

 

I use full synthetic in both my Max's...for instant lubrication at start up especially in this sub degree weather. So with synthetic you're less likely to kill your starter (you know how it is starting a frozen motor). I however mix Amsoil and CRC GL4 gear lube from Napa together in my tranny...smooth as hell. The VE gets the 98 Toyota Corolla filter everytime, she loves it so much she don't clack at me .

 

So you were getting lifter tap on cold starts, now that you have lubed with a full synthetic/better filter and your good money, excellent. I also am a believer that synthetic is the way to go. I did run my Max on a synthetic blend for a little while(she doesn't get driven that much), with plans on going full synthetic after so many miles with the blend.

 

I was thinking about switching to another brand of oil, I currently use shell brand oil, but my car has 241,000 miles, So I may switch to a synthetic blend or either try the mobil 1 or supertech synthetic oil. I was wondering if anyone used the new bosh oil filters? I currently have a fram oil filter on my max, Will probaly do some stuff to the car tomarro since I havent been taking care of here like I should lately.

 

What does that engine restorer do man? Was wondering because I was thinking about getting a can myself.

 

it helps restore cylinder walls reduce the chance of oil passing the rings into the combustion chamber and being burnt. Also helps bring back compression.

 

ohh ok I may try that along with some supertech synthetic oil or synthetic blend.

 

o.p. i feel like you just opened up a can of worms

 

I've been using Mobil Clean 5000 "dino" oil. Less that $3.00 per quart, guaranteed for 5000 miles.

I try and change it every 3000 miles, and no matter what oil I use, I will continue to change the oil and filter at those intervals.

No one can convince me it is worth it to spend more on oil.

Whatever trips your trigger.

 

Lmfao ok well i personally notice a difference in using synthetic over dino. I work at autozone and see all the different oils and the clean 5000 is equivalent to i would say Quaker state so yeah you use dino. One day look at the inside of your valve cover and tell me was it worth dino. I also went to college for automotive technology and only because of trouble with my license for a bad ticket that once it's sealed and or expunged back to Nissan or Subaru dealership i go. Do some research on oil and see what the difference between synthetic and normal looks like.

 

Elusive.. I see you've got the oil pan gaskets. Where'd you get those? Courtesy?

Looks like they gave you a wrong one. On the VE they're the same size. That smaller one in your pic won't fit the VE. You need two of the larger ones (the one on the right in your picture)

I went through the same thing with Nissan a year or two ago. Ignore what they tell you and order another of the larger ones. Even Rock Auto does the same thing. Just last week, I had to buy two "kits" from them just to get get one complete set that fit the VE

 

Lol dude I've had those two seals since 2007 just never put them on. Just like my oem oil pressure sensor. And also the crankshaft seal. All bought in 2007 just never got around to installing any of them.

No bought from Bruce Titus Nissan in Washington next door from Subaru where i worked at both owned by Bruce Titus. Same parts place online i get my parts from. Www.nismoparts.com the guy i order from now probably will agree that back when i bought the seals they might of gave me one of the two Seals wrong.