factory freak idle..??
01-06-2011, 06:39 PM
#1
factory freak idle..??
Hey how's it going guys I'm pretty new to the org this is my first thread so bare with me if its a lil unorganized I appreciate the patience and aid in advance..
So..here's what I've done..cleaned throttle body replaced gasket too,clean iacv and replaced gasket too,changed valve cover gasket,seafoamed my car,have always done regular oil changes and maintenance(filters,pumps..etc).
Now here's the problem my cars always had a nasty idle but at one point a few months ago after doing all this(tb,iacv,vcg,seafoam..etc..) my cars idle seemed pretty fine for the most part but now its back to crappyness again..when I pull up to stop signs/red lights nd throw it in neutral while coming to a stop my idle drops to 500 even 400 sometimes then goes fluxuates between 5-750 rpm. While standing still it sometimes does the same thing jus fluxuates rpms nd I get a nasty vibration while its idleing.
My question now..from my knowledge and what I've read from the org I've came to a few conclusions first off I read it cld be my ecu coolant temp sensor or a throttle position sensor mayb one or both went bad..second I was thinking maybe there's a vacuum leak somewhere was thinking of maybe doing a smoke test? Lastly the most common of problems could it just be my rusted exhuast manifold studs? My cars got 180k on the highway it runs like a charm but I'm thinking the rust finally caught up...btw it doesn't feel like I'm at a loss of power when I put it to the metal I feel like its pretty much all there so idk what else to conclude but I'm in possession of a factory freak lol
P.s I'm kind of a newb so I would RLY appreciate it if you guys could be a little bit more detailed in your responses again thanks again in advance your advice and opinions are welcome!
So..here's what I've done..cleaned throttle body replaced gasket too,clean iacv and replaced gasket too,changed valve cover gasket,seafoamed my car,have always done regular oil changes and maintenance(filters,pumps..etc).
Now here's the problem my cars always had a nasty idle but at one point a few months ago after doing all this(tb,iacv,vcg,seafoam..etc..) my cars idle seemed pretty fine for the most part but now its back to crappyness again..when I pull up to stop signs/red lights nd throw it in neutral while coming to a stop my idle drops to 500 even 400 sometimes then goes fluxuates between 5-750 rpm. While standing still it sometimes does the same thing jus fluxuates rpms nd I get a nasty vibration while its idleing.
My question now..from my knowledge and what I've read from the org I've came to a few conclusions first off I read it cld be my ecu coolant temp sensor or a throttle position sensor mayb one or both went bad..second I was thinking maybe there's a vacuum leak somewhere was thinking of maybe doing a smoke test? Lastly the most common of problems could it just be my rusted exhuast manifold studs? My cars got 180k on the highway it runs like a charm but I'm thinking the rust finally caught up...btw it doesn't feel like I'm at a loss of power when I put it to the metal I feel like its pretty much all there so idk what else to conclude but I'm in possession of a factory freak lol
P.s I'm kind of a newb so I would RLY appreciate it if you guys could be a little bit more detailed in your responses again thanks again in advance your advice and opinions are welcome!
01-07-2011, 09:41 AM
#6
I miss my VE
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 2,553
01-07-2011, 10:11 AM
#7
A bad injector can very well be fine at WOT. My black VE I got back in the day from flyry had a bad/sticky injector but flew like a bat out of hell at WOT. At idle it would be pretty stumbly occasionally..
01-07-2011, 10:31 AM
#8
I miss my VE
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 2,553
01-07-2011, 11:02 AM
#9
yeah I get you james but the cars actually pretty fine though when just cruising, its fine low rpm mid rpm all the same pretty much.......in low rpm 2nd gear I get this rly bad kick/studder from the car its feels mechanical like two hard parts knocking together I was assuming its my tranny/motor mounts feels like its coming from right underneath me I highly doubt this has to do with the fuel delivery of the car and just a seperate issue but just thought mayb id mention it just incase but if it is a seperate issue plz disregard lol cuz id like focus on my original post...to clear it up I don't WOT everywhere the cars power seems fine jus ****ty idle thanks again
01-07-2011, 11:23 AM
#10
Well, I didn't mean to imply that you were always at WOT. I was just talking about WOT in relation to you guys mentioning it accelerates well. The VE I described above also accelerated well. It drove perfect in all aspects. It was just occasionally stumbly at idle. As soon as it had any gas (be it moderate acceleration, WOT, whatever), it was perfectly fine.
The chances of this are likely small, but are you sure this low RPM in 2nd gear problem isn't just a by-product of driving "technique" (for lack of a better word)? From what I gather you're a relative new-comer at driving stick? For instance, if you're going slow, and still shift iinto a higher gear, you'll get this shaky/jerky action going on as it bogs the RPM range down to match the speed. Basically shifting into a higher gear but not having enough speed (think trying to go into 5th at like 20 mph or something).
The chances of this are likely small, but are you sure this low RPM in 2nd gear problem isn't just a by-product of driving "technique" (for lack of a better word)? From what I gather you're a relative new-comer at driving stick? For instance, if you're going slow, and still shift iinto a higher gear, you'll get this shaky/jerky action going on as it bogs the RPM range down to match the speed. Basically shifting into a higher gear but not having enough speed (think trying to go into 5th at like 20 mph or something).
01-07-2011, 12:23 PM
#11
I miss my VE
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 2,553
Well, I didn't mean to imply that you were always at WOT. I was just talking about WOT in relation to you guys mentioning it accelerates well. The VE I described above also accelerated well. It drove perfect in all aspects. It was just occasionally stumbly at idle. As soon as it had any gas (be it moderate acceleration, WOT, whatever), it was perfectly fine.
The chances of this are likely small, but are you sure this low RPM in 2nd gear problem isn't just a by-product of driving "technique" (for lack of a better word)? From what I gather you're a relative new-comer at driving stick? For instance, if you're going slow, and still shift iinto a higher gear, you'll get this shaky/jerky action going on as it bogs the RPM range down to match the speed. Basically shifting into a higher gear but not having enough speed (think trying to go into 5th at like 20 mph or something).
The chances of this are likely small, but are you sure this low RPM in 2nd gear problem isn't just a by-product of driving "technique" (for lack of a better word)? From what I gather you're a relative new-comer at driving stick? For instance, if you're going slow, and still shift iinto a higher gear, you'll get this shaky/jerky action going on as it bogs the RPM range down to match the speed. Basically shifting into a higher gear but not having enough speed (think trying to go into 5th at like 20 mph or something).
And as for his manual driving, hes pretty much got the stick down the right way. That retarded jerking in second gear happens to me too. It happens when your cruising in second at the speed you should be at second, lets say behind a car or something, waiting to either decelerate or accelerate, the thing will start to jerk big time unless you open up that throttle a bit. Feels like a mechanical issue in the tranny. But thats a totally different issue.
01-07-2011, 01:10 PM
#12
Oh alright I get what you mean now I thought for a second you think I WOT around town lol but honestly pretty much what VE evolution said is on point my driving skills have been on point for som time now and that shaking..jerkyness kinda feels like a tranny issue or tranny insulator issue I hope ( mayb throwout bearing? )..but yeah we cld rule that drivin technique out..anythin else come to mind?
01-07-2011, 02:33 PM
#14
You don't have to remove the intake manifold to test the rear injectors. There's a harness by the power valve that goes to the rear injectors and you can test each rear injector here with the multimeter
01-07-2011, 05:04 PM
#15
I really had no idea its possible for injectors to go bad and still have the car accelerate well. Its just not registering because every single car I've seen with bad injectors was really sluggish and had a "putt putt" every second coming out of the tail pipe. To check those rear injectors, the intake manifold has to come off? Highly unlikely its some kind of sensor right? Because I noticed in that 300ZX VE thread, hes having idle issues and 4signs mentioned to check a few sensors.
And as for his manual driving, hes pretty much got the stick down the right way. That retarded jerking in second gear happens to me too. It happens when your cruising in second at the speed you should be at second, lets say behind a car or something, waiting to either decelerate or accelerate, the thing will start to jerk big time unless you open up that throttle a bit. Feels like a mechanical issue in the tranny. But thats a totally different issue.
And as for his manual driving, hes pretty much got the stick down the right way. That retarded jerking in second gear happens to me too. It happens when your cruising in second at the speed you should be at second, lets say behind a car or something, waiting to either decelerate or accelerate, the thing will start to jerk big time unless you open up that throttle a bit. Feels like a mechanical issue in the tranny. But thats a totally different issue.
01-07-2011, 05:14 PM
#16
Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 189
Originally Posted by VEvolution
I really had no idea its possible for injectors to go bad and still have the car accelerate well.
Just unplug the coil packs one by one until you find a cylinder that doesn't run worse when unplugged. Then you can check resistance on that coil and injector, or swap with a working one to verify.
01-07-2011, 07:17 PM
#17
I miss my VE
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 2,553
That's classic cylinder not firing, so it's fuel, spark, or even a stuck valve. I had a valve adjuster break, and the remains were holding the valve open so the engine ran pretty much like that.
I recently had a bad injector, at idle it did the classic "puff puff" misfire sound from the exhaust and had a rougher than normal idle. Driving below 4000 RPM it was relatively smooth at light throttle, and had some shudder under heavier load. Above 4000 it felt almost normal. Power was reduced below 4000 RPM but not that dramatically.
Just unplug the coil packs one by one until you find a cylinder that doesn't run worse when unplugged. Then you can check resistance on that coil and injector, or swap with a working one to verify.
I recently had a bad injector, at idle it did the classic "puff puff" misfire sound from the exhaust and had a rougher than normal idle. Driving below 4000 RPM it was relatively smooth at light throttle, and had some shudder under heavier load. Above 4000 it felt almost normal. Power was reduced below 4000 RPM but not that dramatically.
Just unplug the coil packs one by one until you find a cylinder that doesn't run worse when unplugged. Then you can check resistance on that coil and injector, or swap with a working one to verify.
Guys what about exhaust manifold studs? His look pretty rusted. Would these be symptoms of broken exhaust studs?
01-07-2011, 07:50 PM
#18
You have to test different combinations of pins on the harness to test each injector:
01-09-2011, 07:47 PM
#20
I miss my VE
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 2,553
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