maxinout93

Ive got 3 semi annoying issues, First is the alternator. Since I removed my splash sheild, because it was sagging, I have been having wet drive belts, squealing on start up( I dont know if thats because the belts are loose or what not) I just replaced the lower idle pulley, maybe time for a new belt, but I dont know. Its been raining down here lately and everytime I splash into some water, my alternator gets soaked, and nearly wants to stall the engine, and also squeals so loudly. Anyone else have these issues? How Do I solve it?

2) The other issue is the front engine mount, I have this feeling that the engine is now sitting on the chassis and all the other moving parts of the car( cv axles ect) I recently took a trip down the interstate, the car was shaking/ vibrating pretty badly, so Im assumnig this is the culprit! Is the front engine mount difficult to replace myself? I will probaly go out and put some pb blaster on the bolts until I order a new one.

3) That darn metal sheild on my driver side( the one that sits behind the brake disk ) is constanly rubbing aginst my rotor, I try and bend it bak, it stops for a little while, then the scraping and rubbing comes bak. Is there an easy way to remove this thing?? please help!

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

1) Stop driving into huge puddles? You shouldn't have any issues like that unless you're driving into actual puddles. At startup you shouldn't have any squealing unless the whole thing was very recently completely soaked. If not, your belt might need to be tightened a bit. None of my VE's have ever had all the splash shields and I've never had any problems at all unless I go right through huge puddles..

2) How would the engine be sitting on the chassis? That's not possible. The front engine mount is easy to replace. Just support the engine from underneath (jackstand under the oil pan - I probably wouldn't use the crank pulley on the VG with the notoriously weak crank pulley snout), drop the crossmember, and replace it. In my experience though, if you have one engine mount that has been bad for quite a while, it'll quickly ruin your other one. If your front mount is trashed, I'd bet your rear mount isn't looking too good either.

3) Well, if you properly bend the shield off the rotor there's no way it would bend itself back randomly. If the shield is still touching each time you check, then you didn't bend it back far enough. Are you sure it's the shield and not just squealing pads? I wouldn't take the shield off.. you'll ruin your wheel bearings in no time if you do that

maxinout93

1) thanks for your response, but I try to avoid the big puddles, but sometimes its even the little ones, and the depressions in the roadways that fill with water. I never really had this problem with the shield installed, so i guess ill go and get another decent looking one from the JY.
2)what I meant by that, is it feels like its sitting directly on the chassis because I can feel it vibrating more than it used to.
3)I guess I will try to bend it back a little more. (the shield) Im pretty sure its that sheild because the brake pads are not that old.

shiloh51933

iTrader: (5)

1. Replace the splash shields...there on there for a reason that should be obvious presently(buy new ones or JY shields that are in good shape). You can try spraying your accessory belts down with Gunk Belt Dressing, that's what I use. Checking the belts would be a good idea but replacing with new is better if needed.

2. If you want to check the front motor mount you'll need a helper to operate the car while you watch under the hood. Have your helper step on brake pedal, put in drive and give a little throttle while holding brake down. You'll be watching for movement, if the motor jumps up at you it's most likely the front mount. You'll have to do the same test/check in reverse and looking for the motor to make major movement. The motor shouldn't be doing this and that's the job of the MM's to keep the engine in place while cushioning the motor but cushions just enough so the vibrations don't shake the vehicle.

3.As already mentioned I'd look into the brakes or the CV joint maybe for the scraping sound.

redhunter

I would recommend changing both engine mounts at the same time. I made the mistake of only changing the front and a few months later not only the back but the new front one went out. I think it was due to the fact that both old mounts had "settled" into position over time and introducing a new mount with the bore hole in the original position stressed both of them. By doing both you can drop the crossmember and gradually tighten everything up together evenly. The trick is unscrewing the rear mount bolt. After putting the car on floor jacks, I removed the passenger tire and got about 20" of socket extensions and a socket universal joint to grab hold of the rear mount bolt. Also you may want to consider using two scissor jacks underneath. One to hold the engine up and the other to raise and lower the crossmember. Having the ability to gradually adjust both of them made it easier for me to line everything up.