What now?
03-11-2011, 12:53 AM
#1
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What now?
I just did front crank seal a few weeks ago and the oil pan seals. It still has a lil oil leak (looks like from the seal). It hasn't been started in about 4 weeks (because of the repairs I just mentioned) till tonight and it wasn't making this clattering sound before. I know its coming from around that crank pulley "ASP". Everything on this motor is brand new. I'm stumped and was planning on taking it to work tomorrow. Oh and I don't have my muffler on yet.
http://s122.photobucket.com/albums/o...=Video0002.mp4
http://s122.photobucket.com/albums/o...=Video0002.mp4
03-11-2011, 04:45 AM
#2
"There was a problem playing your video. Video not found."
process of elimination, you pull all the belts off to make sure it's not some random accessory? do you have to pull the timing chain to do a fms?
process of elimination, you pull all the belts off to make sure it's not some random accessory? do you have to pull the timing chain to do a fms?
03-11-2011, 05:11 AM
#4
huh....
I clicked that link four times to make sure it wasn't me....
fml.
yeah, seems to be missing pretty bad, too?
hard to tell with the sound, aside from maybe some sticky lifters, but that's up top, not near the crank...
I clicked that link four times to make sure it wasn't me....
fml.
yeah, seems to be missing pretty bad, too?
hard to tell with the sound, aside from maybe some sticky lifters, but that's up top, not near the crank...
03-11-2011, 11:34 AM
#7
Just replace all your vac lines, it's easier than hunting around. I'm systematically replacing "all" hoses in the engine bay as a preventative measure of course.
03-11-2011, 05:45 PM
#8
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Thats kool but way ahead of you. I already did that. Just gonna go around with a stethoscope and starter fluid to find it. I just replaced the brake booster last week and trying to pump the brakes I get nothing when engine running, but when off the pedal is firm. thats the first area on my list.
03-11-2011, 08:43 PM
#10
That's the first thing I said as well.....Haven't heard anything from him yet......check the torque of the Crank pulley.... Maximo018....
03-11-2011, 08:46 PM
#11
I would personally pull all the coil pack/sparkplugs and rotate the engine by hand to make sure it's turning smoothly, cause it sounds like there something loose or some contact being made inside the engine assy........
03-12-2011, 12:09 AM
#12
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Well I tightened the pulley to spec. It wasn't loose enough to shake by hand, but when I put the torque wrench on it turned a bit. Used pry bar to make sure that none of the accessories were loose. Too late to start her up tonight. Will have second (better) vid up tomorrow evening after work.
03-13-2011, 06:38 PM
#17
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Alright sorry it took so long. Just trying run scenarios. Car won't stay running more than a couple of mins. Starts up fine but dies out after 2 mins of idling. ECU says code 55 (no malfunction) So at least is not computer related, more than likely mechanically. The other night after the other video I adjusted the timing a bit back+ forth to improve idle a bit along with toggling the IAACV screw. Obviously big mistake! Should have left the screw alone. Tried checking for a vacuum leak but haven't found one with the spray or stethoscope. This is starting to get aggravating. I just need a smooth idle. There is a bit of a white cloud left lingering after she run a bit. My friend says it smells like gas and exhaust. ... Anyway heres the video
http://s122.photobucket.com/albums/o...t=MOV00476.mp4
http://s122.photobucket.com/albums/o...t=MOV00476.mp4
03-13-2011, 07:37 PM
#19
It sounds like it's idling really low. If you adjust the idle up higher will it not stay running?
There's not really any "damage" you can do with the idle adjusting screw. I would make sure the timing is in an acceptable range first and then mess with the idle screw if need be. I mean, all that labored sounding idle noise could just be from a way out of whack timing.
I'd highly doubt anything would be randomly wrong/broken/loose internally. You didn't touch the internals did you?
There's not really any "damage" you can do with the idle adjusting screw. I would make sure the timing is in an acceptable range first and then mess with the idle screw if need be. I mean, all that labored sounding idle noise could just be from a way out of whack timing.
I'd highly doubt anything would be randomly wrong/broken/loose internally. You didn't touch the internals did you?
03-13-2011, 08:15 PM
#20
You need a timimg light and maybe an engine analyzer at the least and place the inductive pick around the harness wiring to #1 ignition coilpack so you can see where you are with your timing @ the crank pulley.....! While doing that I would also check each coil pack for whether it's firing or not and fuel injectors just some basic troubleshooting to see if there's a dead cylinder or whatever......RPM drop test!
03-13-2011, 09:55 PM
#21
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It sounds like it's idling really low. If you adjust the idle up higher will it not stay running?
There's not really any "damage" you can do with the idle adjusting screw. I would make sure the timing is in an acceptable range first and then mess with the idle screw if need be. I mean, all that labored sounding idle noise could just be from a way out of whack timing.
I'd highly doubt anything would be randomly wrong/broken/loose internally. You didn't touch the internals did you?
There's not really any "damage" you can do with the idle adjusting screw. I would make sure the timing is in an acceptable range first and then mess with the idle screw if need be. I mean, all that labored sounding idle noise could just be from a way out of whack timing.
I'd highly doubt anything would be randomly wrong/broken/loose internally. You didn't touch the internals did you?
03-13-2011, 10:08 PM
#22
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You need a timimg light and maybe an engine analyzer at the least and place the inductive pick around the harness wiring to #1 ignition coilpack so you can see where you are with your timing @ the crank pulley.....! While doing that I would also check each coil pack for whether it's firing or not and fuel injectors just some basic troubleshooting to see if there's a dead cylinder or whatever......RPM drop test!
03-14-2011, 04:08 AM
#23
I just bought a timing light last night. Now to get the car to stay on long enough for me to check it. According to the pic I sent James a couple of hours ago of the lil spray of soot from the exhaust on the floor I'm running way rich. Timing must be way off but unlike most on here how ever long it takes me I will not give up and quit. But tonight I'm tired and don't wanna look her any more for the rest of the day.
Last edited by Augustus Maximus; 03-14-2011 at 04:16 AM.
03-14-2011, 05:52 AM
#25
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I just bought a timing light last night. Now to get the car to stay on long enough for me to check it. According to the pic I sent James a couple of hours ago of the lil spray of soot from the exhaust on the floor I'm running way rich. Timing must be way off but unlike most on here how ever long it takes me I will not give up and quit. But tonight I'm tired and don't wanna look her any more for the rest of the day.
03-15-2011, 01:09 AM
#27
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lol! I did and theres was no difference. First I'm gonna put the timing back at 15*. Then clean my MAF sensor ( never done since I bought the car). I remembered at one time the housing was covered in oily gritty substance. From there check my coils and spark. Watch it be something STUPID that easily could've been fixed in the beginning.
03-15-2011, 06:37 PM
#29
Check your compression and valve timing using a long 1/4 drive extension and looking @ your crankshaft pulley TDC mark,.....If the No.1 cylinder isn't at TDC on the compression stroke or your crank isn't lined up with the the crankshaft TDC mark on your timing cover....well then you got some real problems Brother Man.....On the compression stroke of the No.1 cyl....the piston should be at it highest point and the crankshaft corresponding timing mark should be aligned crank pulley TDC indentation.....GL
03-15-2011, 06:46 PM
#30
I would also stick the stock crank pulley back on to dial in the timing. The ASP is virtually impossible to read/dial in accurately. Remember to follow the FSM timing procedure, it's pretty finicky. IIRC you have to unplug some sensor, rev the engine X amount of times, adjust CPS, rev engine for X amount of time, etc
03-15-2011, 09:21 PM
#31
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Check your compression and valve timing using a long 1/4 drive extension and looking @ your crankshaft pulley TDC mark,.....If the No.1 cylinder isn't at TDC on the compression stroke or your crank isn't lined up with the the crankshaft TDC mark on your timing cover....well then you got some real problems Brother Man.....On the compression stroke of the No.1 cyl....the piston should be at it highest point and the crankshaft corresponding timing mark should be aligned crank pulley TDC indentation.....GL
03-15-2011, 09:25 PM
#32
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I would also stick the stock crank pulley back on to dial in the timing. The ASP is virtually impossible to read/dial in accurately. Remember to follow the FSM timing procedure, it's pretty finicky. IIRC you have to unplug some sensor, rev the engine X amount of times, adjust CPS, rev engine for X amount of time, etc
03-18-2011, 01:41 AM
#33
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I got a couple more things I'm gonna try. If I don't get it by Tues...oh well. Shes gonna go to the dealer. For $100 for diagnostic let them find it. If it takes going back deep down in the motor, let them do it. They can do it a whole lot faster than I can. I'm to the point of wanting it to run right (no matter what). I can maintain from there.
