built ve
05-15-2011, 07:47 PM
#7
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 212
Typo the header manifold was bored to match ports its only about 1/4-1/2 " on either side that had to be ground out but kind of cone shape it in to smooth flow and as for bolting up the same forget about it you gotta find your centers which match up vg and Ve lucked out ports centers are same apart but just center the height and side to side then mark and modify holes for exhaust studs as for head work they been cleaned new springs that's about it I get spare heads complete maybe someday ill tinker with them but I'm not going for speed anymore no point just to finish a 8 yr project
05-15-2011, 07:55 PM
#9
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Location: Richmond, VA
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Typo. The header manifold was bored to match ports; it's only about 1/4-1/2 " on either side that had to be ground out, but kind of cone shape it in to smooth flow. As for bolting up, the same; forget about it you gotta find your centers which match up. VG and VE lucked out; ports centers are same [distance] apart but just center the height and side to side, then mark and modify holes for exhaust studs. As for head work, they've been cleaned; new springs; that's about it. [If] I get spare heads complete, maybe someday I'll tinker with them but I'm not going for speed anymore; no point, just to finish a 8 yr project
05-15-2011, 08:00 PM
#10
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Location: Rhode Island
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Wow! That was much easier to read. As for the headers, they are indeed for the vg. I found a great deal on eBay and was actually planning on cutting and swapping flanges.
Last edited by 3rdmaxse0; 05-15-2011 at 08:04 PM.
05-15-2011, 08:05 PM
#11
05-15-2011, 09:20 PM
#12
05-16-2011, 06:29 AM
#13
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...r-headers.html
05-18-2011, 09:36 AM
#15
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Location: Okc 405
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If im not mistaken our ve engines are already 10.5-1 so nothing new with the pistons besides after market. Now the exhaust port work should give him a bit more power and impressive headers granted there vg headers lol. Only issue I see is there not equal length headers so you might end up getting back pressure. I rather spend time and money having custom equal length headers over using non equal lengths. What else you have done besides whats listed here.
05-18-2011, 04:08 PM
#17
05-18-2011, 04:56 PM
#18
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 212
Got motor out of basement finishing up mounting mounts accessory bracket fidenza flywheel clutch and bolt on tyranny gonna crank engine outside car first with analog oil pressure gauge first to make sure I make good pressure little paranoid
I got venom injectectors (waste of money)
Asp pulley sleeved
Flywheel
Wsp y-pipe back to magnaflow muffler
75 shot zex never used
I got venom injectectors (waste of money)
Asp pulley sleeved
Flywheel
Wsp y-pipe back to magnaflow muffler
75 shot zex never used
05-18-2011, 08:05 PM
#20
Nice build!! 
The headers look great. If the engine is still out, I would suggest throwing in ARP rod bolts if you haven't already... they aren't too pricey and would round out a very solid bottom end for whatever you want to throw at it down the road. Do you have any pictures of the pistons?
I dont think many people have had good luck with these plugs... I know my car ran pretty bad with Bosch +4's years ago when I tried using them. Maybe they have improved the design though.
The headers look great. If the engine is still out, I would suggest throwing in ARP rod bolts if you haven't already... they aren't too pricey and would round out a very solid bottom end for whatever you want to throw at it down the road. Do you have any pictures of the pistons?I dont think many people have had good luck with these plugs... I know my car ran pretty bad with Bosch +4's years ago when I tried using them. Maybe they have improved the design though.
05-18-2011, 09:36 PM
#21
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Location: Rhode Island
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I got pics I posted yrs ago same title I do believe. I was joking with the Bosch I run ngk. I had this car for going on ten yrs on the org maybe 7 or 8 I learned a lot about what works and what doesn't. I have eagle rods and I'm sure there bolts got some tensile strength. Crank lightened zero balanced with rotating assembly. Bunch of stuff I guess, cost me 1400 in machine work and lower assembly
05-18-2011, 10:50 PM
#22
I got pics I posted yrs ago same title I do believe. I was joking with the Bosch I run ngk. I had this car for going on ten yrs on the org maybe 7 or 8 I learned a lot about what works and what doesn't. I have eagle rods and I'm sure there bolts got some tensile strength. Crank lightened zero balanced with rotating assembly. Bunch of stuff I guess, cost me 1400 in machine work and lower assembly
05-19-2011, 07:06 AM
#23
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Moody/Pell City, Alabama
Posts: 124
[/quote]I dont think many people have had good luck with these plugs... I know my car ran pretty bad with Bosch +4's years ago when I tried using them. Maybe they have improved the design though.[/quote]
Nope, I messed up and bought Bosch plugs about a month ago, and my car runs awful
Nope, I messed up and bought Bosch plugs about a month ago, and my car runs awful
05-22-2011, 06:21 PM
#28
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Location: Rhode Island
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As of this morning engine is bolted in with trans. Before I even touched a wire put oil in and checked oil pressure by crank start. Everything looked good tensioners were tight and lifters didn't squish down at all ( air in lifters would cause that) just need to get some injector insulators because all of mine are cracked or torn. Just hoping for no rain
05-24-2011, 06:13 PM
#31
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 212
Ordered bottom insulators for the injectors today since mine are half torn or cracked.(Don't need a vacuum leak been there done that and no more rtv sealant bandaids for me) painting valve covers rear is done front needs lots of attention. Then I just need to clean up coolant pipes and housings and new fuel lines on rail and ill be snapping clips together. Tell you what though this is one of the easiest engine swap or replacement I have done, everything lays out where it needs go be no B.S.
05-24-2011, 06:17 PM
#32
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 212
And shiloh don't count on your motor going in the 200k range mine went due to neglect not changing regularly and lost oil with asp pulley wearing in ( especially when I was on the dyno I had oil everywhere)
05-24-2011, 07:55 PM
#35
finally stretched a rod bolt and came apart on me. at redline in 4th on the track. At Maxus no less. At least it died a noble death.
05-26-2011, 12:28 PM
#38
