Auto Transmission Died
#1
Auto Transmission Died
Hey fellas. Questions.
While driving down the street, I completely lost all the gears so I pulled over and noticed I wasn't able to get the gear to shift into drive, 1, 2 or return. At the same time, I notice some strange noises from under the hood spinning out of control. The sound doesn't sound too loud but it definitely felt like something is loosen and running out of control and it doesn't sound like the cylinders is banging into the head wall at all. Does this mean my transmission is gone or just the clutch? Usually if the transmission goes bad, there are slippery signs. I didn't notice any. It just gave up all of the suddenly. Is this normal? I noticed that RPM won't move occasionally and sometimes it just comes back to life then goes out again. But the air sensor was changed a few times and it didn't fix the RPM random error.
So what do you guys think I should do, where to start? I have a place where I can get all the tools to do engine/transmission removal. Once I removed the CV half-joint/axles, how long does it take to remove the transmission and clutch? Should I change both the transmission and clutch or just the clutch? What about the flywheel. A used AT is about $475. How much you guys think it'll cost me for all the necessary parts? Oh crap, is it even worth it or dump the car?
Also, for a while now I always have to wiggle the shift stick into D or R to just get the clutch enrage. Should I change the linkage cable too?
While driving down the street, I completely lost all the gears so I pulled over and noticed I wasn't able to get the gear to shift into drive, 1, 2 or return. At the same time, I notice some strange noises from under the hood spinning out of control. The sound doesn't sound too loud but it definitely felt like something is loosen and running out of control and it doesn't sound like the cylinders is banging into the head wall at all. Does this mean my transmission is gone or just the clutch? Usually if the transmission goes bad, there are slippery signs. I didn't notice any. It just gave up all of the suddenly. Is this normal? I noticed that RPM won't move occasionally and sometimes it just comes back to life then goes out again. But the air sensor was changed a few times and it didn't fix the RPM random error.
So what do you guys think I should do, where to start? I have a place where I can get all the tools to do engine/transmission removal. Once I removed the CV half-joint/axles, how long does it take to remove the transmission and clutch? Should I change both the transmission and clutch or just the clutch? What about the flywheel. A used AT is about $475. How much you guys think it'll cost me for all the necessary parts? Oh crap, is it even worth it or dump the car?
Also, for a while now I always have to wiggle the shift stick into D or R to just get the clutch enrage. Should I change the linkage cable too?
#3
My three cents
Well first of all we can definetly rule out the clutch....for obvious reasons.
Secondly as for a tranny just quiting all of a sudden w/o any signs of trouble, it happens all the time, I have lost two AT trannies that way. As for cutting your losses and just getting a new car I am never an advocate of sending a maxx to the yard, I have parted a few out but Cannibalism and abandonment are two entirely different things.
As for doing the work yourself the tranny will come out the bottom of the car leaving the engine in place contrary to what the book says, its not as bad as it sounds if you have the tools and a place to do the work.
As for the sounds you described that can be anything...... seriously, anything....
I say if you love the car fix it, cars are not single use disposable items....
good luck
Secondly as for a tranny just quiting all of a sudden w/o any signs of trouble, it happens all the time, I have lost two AT trannies that way. As for cutting your losses and just getting a new car I am never an advocate of sending a maxx to the yard, I have parted a few out but Cannibalism and abandonment are two entirely different things.
As for doing the work yourself the tranny will come out the bottom of the car leaving the engine in place contrary to what the book says, its not as bad as it sounds if you have the tools and a place to do the work.
As for the sounds you described that can be anything...... seriously, anything....
I say if you love the car fix it, cars are not single use disposable items....
good luck
#4
I suggest you get a second opinion on what the issue is.. If the engine starts and runs, then it's not the engine.
It could be a failed torque converter or a clutch band in the tranny or a differential or an axle..
hhmmm... just thought of something.. I had a customer have his car towed to me one time with a broken CV joint. the cage on the outer joint came apart and things got real ugly.. engine still ran and everything, but it wouldn't go anywhere and sounded like rocks in a lawnmower. From your vague description, it could be as simple as that.
step one is to get under the car and look- this might take two people. first, look for an axle not going to the wheel. look for greasy messes inside the wheels, and anything else that might be ugly or out of place. grab each axle (with the car OFF!!) and pull around on it. if they move, there's yer problem. If that doesn't show anything, have the car jacked up in the air, STAND CLEAR, and have someone start the car and put it in gear with the brakes on. CAREFULLY look under the car and see if one of the axles is spinning inside the outer CV joint or if the thing is flailing around inside the wheel well. let's hope not at this point.. keep in mind if that's the case, then you need to shut it off NOW and stand clear until everything is stopped. heavy chunks of metal from what's left of the CV joint could go flying out at any second- don't want your face anywhere near there.
If that's not it, then it's probably a tranny. an auto tranny isn't horrible to replace. it's 3-4hrs of work for me, but for a n00b to a transmission with hand tools, it could be a weekend job.
But either way, it's definitely doable. long as the engine and the rest of the car is in good shape, there's no reason to send a good car to the scrapper. just grab a tranny and get your groove on.
It could be a failed torque converter or a clutch band in the tranny or a differential or an axle..
hhmmm... just thought of something.. I had a customer have his car towed to me one time with a broken CV joint. the cage on the outer joint came apart and things got real ugly.. engine still ran and everything, but it wouldn't go anywhere and sounded like rocks in a lawnmower. From your vague description, it could be as simple as that.
step one is to get under the car and look- this might take two people. first, look for an axle not going to the wheel. look for greasy messes inside the wheels, and anything else that might be ugly or out of place. grab each axle (with the car OFF!!) and pull around on it. if they move, there's yer problem. If that doesn't show anything, have the car jacked up in the air, STAND CLEAR, and have someone start the car and put it in gear with the brakes on. CAREFULLY look under the car and see if one of the axles is spinning inside the outer CV joint or if the thing is flailing around inside the wheel well. let's hope not at this point.. keep in mind if that's the case, then you need to shut it off NOW and stand clear until everything is stopped. heavy chunks of metal from what's left of the CV joint could go flying out at any second- don't want your face anywhere near there.
If that's not it, then it's probably a tranny. an auto tranny isn't horrible to replace. it's 3-4hrs of work for me, but for a n00b to a transmission with hand tools, it could be a weekend job.
But either way, it's definitely doable. long as the engine and the rest of the car is in good shape, there's no reason to send a good car to the scrapper. just grab a tranny and get your groove on.
Last edited by Matt93SE; 12-01-2011 at 02:27 PM.
#5
Thanks, for the suggestion guys. The engine is still running fine. Yes, it does sound like a rock inside a lawn mover
Matt, should I depressurize the brake caliper first then spin the wheel once it's off ground to see if the axle spins? I assume for this part, the car needs to be in Park and if it spins then I have a bad axle?
And if I jacked up the front, put it in D and crank on the engine, if both axles don't spin then I have a dead tranny, right?
Matt, should I depressurize the brake caliper first then spin the wheel once it's off ground to see if the axle spins? I assume for this part, the car needs to be in Park and if it spins then I have a bad axle?
And if I jacked up the front, put it in D and crank on the engine, if both axles don't spin then I have a dead tranny, right?
#6
Due to some of your statements, I strongly suggest you hire a mechanic or find a friend that's good with a wrench to help you diagnose your problem first. No offense but you sound like me when I first started messing around with my car and an extra pair of capable hands will teach you quite a bit while getting you closer to the root of your problem. Again no offense, just want to make sure you get it as close to perfection as possible the first time around without tearing anything up.
#7
I would check your transmission codes also. It's a process like turning o/d on then off, then shifting through some gears ect. Do a search here for 'transmission codes' to get the procedure. This will help rule out some kind of electrical problem/solenoid.
As for the issue of wiggling your shifter back and forth to get into drive that is a bushing in your shift linkage. Very cheap and very easy to replace, but get the tranny working first
As for the issue of wiggling your shifter back and forth to get into drive that is a bushing in your shift linkage. Very cheap and very easy to replace, but get the tranny working first
#8
I would first check the condition of the tranny. Check the fluid first. See if its burned or watnot.
When my tranny died it gave me like a 2 week warning. Strange sounds were coming from it, and the fluid started getting dark, then it was slipping through gears. The final blow was when I was on the interstate going 70 mph and heard a loud boom, I was able to drive 30 miles home but it was no doubt that the tranny was finished. But because the car was so reliable, and I put a good bit of money into it I replaced the transmission for about $600. So if u like the car just look around the net for a tranny, I bought mine for $300.
When my tranny died it gave me like a 2 week warning. Strange sounds were coming from it, and the fluid started getting dark, then it was slipping through gears. The final blow was when I was on the interstate going 70 mph and heard a loud boom, I was able to drive 30 miles home but it was no doubt that the tranny was finished. But because the car was so reliable, and I put a good bit of money into it I replaced the transmission for about $600. So if u like the car just look around the net for a tranny, I bought mine for $300.
#10
i cant be the only one here who knows that the torque converters strip out
where the input shaft goes into them!
wont engage any gear and when you turn the engine off you can hear the converter spinning and scrapping inside the trans for a second or two
where the input shaft goes into them!
wont engage any gear and when you turn the engine off you can hear the converter spinning and scrapping inside the trans for a second or two
#11
when my RF tranny crapped out it gave pretty much no warning. only thing was it would sometimes make a knock going from drive to reverse, so i never would go from drive to reverse. fluid looked brand new (and wasnt even a year old), etc. i just parked it for few days and when i took it out again and got a few blocks from the house i hit the gas and it was just a massive rev and then the tranny kicked in like it was slipping. clutch band in 1st must have worn out. ive seen similar symptoms on cars at work and all needed the transmission replaced.
gotta remember that GXE auto trannies were designed for 4 cylinder engines hence why they have such a habit of blowing at low mileage. best thing to do is get a low mileage one and swap it in and not bag it at all
gotta remember that GXE auto trannies were designed for 4 cylinder engines hence why they have such a habit of blowing at low mileage. best thing to do is get a low mileage one and swap it in and not bag it at all
#12
thanks for the suggestions, guys. i just gave away the car to a local charity with new tires (mint rims), injectors, radiator, HID projector, etc.... i could've easily part it out and get back $1200 but what the hey ...it's season to be giving, plus i'll get back $500 on my tax return. now that my hands are making little money, i figurde it wasn't worth changing out the tranny considering that i already got my return on investment. the car lasted 8 years, which ain't bad. also, that tranny has 250K on it.
#13
here is my new ride:
http://www.bestvaluesandiego.com/201..._139489445.veh
paid $14.5K for it. it's pretty nice, just a few cosmetic issues but no biggie for me. any trip to the local walmart would've gotten me the same results anyway.
http://www.bestvaluesandiego.com/201..._139489445.veh
paid $14.5K for it. it's pretty nice, just a few cosmetic issues but no biggie for me. any trip to the local walmart would've gotten me the same results anyway.
#15
here is my new ride:
http://www.bestvaluesandiego.com/201..._139489445.veh
paid $14.5K for it. it's pretty nice, just a few cosmetic issues but no biggie for me. any trip to the local walmart would've gotten me the same results anyway.
http://www.bestvaluesandiego.com/201..._139489445.veh
paid $14.5K for it. it's pretty nice, just a few cosmetic issues but no biggie for me. any trip to the local walmart would've gotten me the same results anyway.
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