La Zona Imagery

Ok so I decided to change the timing belt myself...I am using this guide here:
http://www.caraudiohelp.com/nissan_m...e_tutorial.htm

Many thanks to the author

I am at the point where I need to find TDC. I am looking at the crank pully wheel standing in front of the engine looking down (standing over the passenger fender area). Which mark on the pully indicates TDC? I see five or six marks on there, and I want to be exact when finding TDC. Thanks!

Maxpwer

iTrader: (7)

Its not the pulley that has the marks, its the timing belt sprocket on the crank (behind the pulley). You need to match the dimple on the sprocket, with the notch on the oil pump lip (at about 4:30). When these are lined up, and the marks on each cam are aligned, you are at TDC! I'm sure someone will post a picture to clarify.

EDIT: I just read saw that write up, and that's a method I've never used when replacing a timing belt. Anyway, there is 5-6 notches on the edge of the pulley which allows you to set the base timing. The write up refers to the farthest mark on the left (0* BTDC)

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

yup. straight from fsm:

akurtzer57

iTrader: (4)

There is a mark on the pulley that indicates TDC. Just easier to pull pulley off and go off crank gear.

Maxpwer

iTrader: (7)

Woah woah, let not have anyone pulling their motor apart thinking the no 1 cylinder is at TDC when its not.
Just because the timing mark on the pulley (or crank gear) is lined up DOES NOT mean the no 1 cylinder is at TDC! The pulley mark (or crank gear mark) only indicates TDC once every two rotations of the crank shaft. There for, besides lining up the timing mark (or crank gear mark) you MUST make sure either the distributor points to no 1 cylinder or the cam marks are lined up as well.

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

stick a long screw driver into spark plug hole for #1 cyl...when it's at it's highest point it's TDC.

then look at the marks and fine tune it.

La Zona Imagery

Thanks for the help guys,I appreciate it.

Now I am at the part where I need to remove the alternator belt. But the alternator seems to be unmovable. I loosened both the alternator bolt and the tensioner bolt all the way, but the alternator won't move, thus I can't get the belt off. And tips?

La Zona Imagery

Ok I got all the drive belts off. The toughest one was the alternator belt because the bolt on the top was so torqued that the alternator would not swivel on the tensioner..but I got it loose finally

So now I am disconnecting the radiator hoses and removing the timing belt cover

MrGone

iTrader: (30)

Is this Rob from BFCOT by chance?

La Zona Imagery

La Zona Imagery

Ok so now I am trying to remove the top timing belt cover...damn its a *****. There is a metal AC hose blocking the edge of the cover from clearing the left cam sprocket. Then there is a metal coolant device blocking the top of the timing belt cover...why the hell did they design it this way? So frustrating!!

Also, I gave up trying to remove the crank pully wheel. I used an impact wrench with max torque 250 foot pounds. The bolt did not budge. I am assuming I can still install the timing belt without removing the the crank pully wheel though right?

La Zona Imagery

Here's the problem..if I try to pull the cover out, the metal pipe (on the bottom of this picture) blocks the cover from fully clearing the left sprocket.

But If I try to pull the cover up, that round metal thing (at the top of the picture) blocks the cover as well! Even trying the massage the cover out, those two issues still block it!

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

That cover can actually be removed even with the coolant hose in place. With it out, should be straight forward. Did you remove the water pump pulley?

La Zona Imagery

Yes I removed the waterpump pulley. That metal AC hose is blocking the upper timing cover from clearing the left cam sprocket (closest to firewall).

I also realized that the crank shaft pulley needs to me removed in order to remove the lower timing belt cover. So I am gonna spray some PB Blast on the bolt and let it sit over night...because right now even my electric impact wrench is not successful in removing that bolt.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

If that doesn't work...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O_6SFBg7_dg

La Zona Imagery

for some reason I am very paranoid about using the breaker bar/starter trick...I am just hoping some PB Blast and some heat coupled with an impact will get this nut loose.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

at work i helped a guy do the timing belt on a old BMW, we had to use the breaker bar/starter method. worked fine, took around 10 tries and we got it, whoever touched it last put a ton of loc-tite on it

La Zona Imagery

hmmm ok I might try it if the PB Blast don't work.

Which coil wire do I need to unplug first though?

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

I almost asked if you have a VE or a VG
the plug goiing to the coil from the harness. you can also pull the ECU fuse, but the plug is relatively easy to access.

La Zona Imagery

Ok I finally was able to remove the upper timing belt cover...I had to remove the thermostat assembly first, then it was very easy to remove the upper timing belt cover.

I was also able to remove the bolt holding the crankshaft pulley...it took some PB Blast overnight an few more tun with the impact wrench. The bolt came off, but the pulley wheel is still stock on. I am assuming I need a puller of some sort right?

Also, I was looking at the left and right cam sprockets...there are no indicators on it to find TDC. I see no white lines or indentations anywhere on the sprocket. ANy help here?

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

Yes I am a VE guy but I do know this much about the VGs that the marks are on the back plate for the cover or the head (which ever is behind the sprocket). Oh and yes you will need a harmonic balance puller (easily found at any autoparts store. Oh! when you do get it off I highly suggest inspecting your crank key (the notch on the crank to align and hold the crank pulley in place). The ones on the VG are known to break therefor screwing up your timing. About the equivalent to timing belt breaking.

La Zona Imagery

Thanks for the tip. Does anyone know the part number for the crank key? Maybe I should go ahead and replace it?

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

0092651600 at courtesy

jbbons25

iTrader: (2)

Look at the picture of post #3 of this thread and it shows that the camshaft gear will have a punchmark at one of the teeth and the cover plate behind it will also have a punchmark. You will see that for both camshaft gears. When you have both cam gears lined up along with the crank gear lined up, it will be at TDC.

maximagician

looks like a clean waterpump,is that new?,are you sure that it and the t belt werent done by the previous owner?most shops do them together

Maxpwer

iTrader: (7)

There is two problems with this statement. First, the pulley and crank sprocket each have their own key so if the pulley key were to break it wouldn't have any effect on the timing belt. Secondly, a broken pulley key is super rare and I've never even heard of a broken sprocket key. More often than not the crank sprocket is completely stuck to the crank, requiring its destruction to remove. Twice I've had to drill holes into crank sprockets and cut them with a cut off wheel until I could get a breaker bar to snap it into 3 pieces to get them off. It must be removed to replace the crank oil seal, which is highly recommended while you having the timing belt off!

La Zona Imagery Im guessing your working on a 91SE, in which case you have the square tooth timing belt with a 60K change interval. Late 93 and newer VGs have a round tooth belt that has a 105K change interval. The belts are about the price, and the conversion can be done for less than $50 (around $10 if you were already planning on replacing the crank sprocket)
Both the round and square tooth crank sprockets are the same price (~$33). Used round tooth cam gears can be picked up from a junk yard or e-bay from any 94+ VG for ~$10. I think its a great conversion for someone who wants to keep their car for a long long time, or a great selling point.

La Zona Imagery

Thanks for the tip Maxpwer..I might just go ahead and covert to round tooth since I am planning on pulling the cam sprockets to replace the oil seals.

But I got a problem....I can't for the life of me locate the TDC marks on the current cam sprocket. Here's a picture of my right cam sprocket...can anyone locate the TDC mark?:

La Zona Imagery

BTW yea Maxpwr, I am working on a '91 SE...reason I am putting so much time into it is because it has sentimental value to me.

As you can see, its all oily and grimey inside the timing belt area. I am assuming leaks everywhere.

Could the little line at the 1 o'clock position o the sprocket be the TDC mark?

Maxpwer

iTrader: (7)

First you are looking for a punch mark, just a small indentation on one of those teeth, not a line. That being said I honestly can't see it in that picture. You need to clean all the grease off those teeth so the mark is clear. Right now the little dent is probably filled in with gunk/grease. Ill try and post a picture of a clean one in a minute with an arrow to the punch mark.

Edit: This cam gear isn't super clean as its an old square tooth, but I cleaned it up a little bit so you can clearly seen the punch mark.

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

Forgive my inaccuracy. Its been about 4 years since I had to do the timing on a VG (lil foggy). Yes that key I was talking about was for the pulley. I started to cross my motor with his by that point. Thanx for catching that.

La Zona Imagery

Thanks for the help Maxpwr...

Ok so I think am at TDC right now...can anyone confirm? I want to make sure:

Right cam sprocket


Crank gear


Distributor



Problem is, I can't see anything on the left cam sprocket..it's too dark to see any marks there. But can I be assured of TDC just judging from the above pics?

Maxpwer

iTrader: (7)

Yes your number 1 cylinder is at TDC, you can be assured.

La Zona Imagery

Ok so I took the old timing belt off.

Now I am trying to put the new timing belt on..damn its tough! I tried doing for an hour, and I couldn't get it on

Any tips?

I installed a new tensioner and spring...should I have installed this after putting on the new belt instead? Because right now, the new belt is very hard to get oo the sprockets.

Maxpwer

iTrader: (7)

If you haven't already, it's a good idea to install the new water pump before the timing belt. Getting a timing belt wet with anti-freeze will reduce it's life and its almost impossible to avoid while its on. While you have the belt off its also the only time to replace the oil seals for the cams and crank.

It helps to take the tensioner off the stud while you install the belt. Just make sure the white lines on the belt match each punch mark and you know you have it installed correctly. Then you can reinstall and tighten the tensioner. Before putting the timing cover back on, start the car and let it run for a few minutes. During this time you should listen for any unusual noise like rubbing or squealing which likely means you over tightened it. Once the car cools down check the deflection of the belt according to the FSM

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

You might wanna replace you oil seal while you're at it! You old belt is oil soaked!

La Zona Imagery

still trying to get the new timing belt on...tried for almost 2 hours today...damn so frustrating

what's the secret?

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

what part are you having problems with?
all you should have to do is line up the marks on the belt with the marks on the cam/crank.

Maxpwer

iTrader: (7)

I will need a little more information on the problem before I can help you. What is preventing you from getting it on? Does it seem too tight and you are having trouble getting it to physically fit? Did you remove the tensioner as previously discussed?

Or are you having trouble getting/keeping everything lined up? The belt you have has 3 white lines on it showing the proper location of each punch mark for installation right?

Where did you get the timing belt from? Did you get it specifically for the maxima or another VG powered car? I think the belt should have 144 teeth, but thats from memory so I better double check that.

La Zona Imagery

The problem i am having is getting the belt to align at all 3 points at the same time. When the belt is aligned at the top two cam sprockets, it seems as if the belt is half a tooth short from aligning at the crank shaft. I am trying tp ull it to align but it won't budge.

I am using this belt:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...60628_16098_0_

it's 133 teeth

yeah i took the tensioner off and tried install the belt first...no luck...maybe this belt is too tight?

La Zona Imagery

Ok here's a picture of my problem...the lines on the belt are aligned correctly with the punch marks on the two cam sprockets. But it seems impossible for me to align the bottom white line to the punch mark on the crank sprocket. The red arrow I have drawn corresponds to where the white line on the belt is. As much as I pull on the belt the gear won't reach into the correct valley of the belt.