1990 Maxima, 99 problems and a blown motor ain't one.
07-09-2012 | 02:34 AM
#41
Whelp after much ado, we got the water pump installed. Its still got water in the block and it was late so we didn't drain the block (where are those drain plugs, by the way? Do these VGs have block drain plugs anywhere? The Haynes wasn't notably descriptive so I may have missed it) which means its staying cocked up at an angle to keep the nasty water off the pump until we start flushing this thing.
Its a real shame that other pump was pissing everywhere as bad as it was... would've rather gotten clean water off that thing than potentially gumming up a new one.
Ah well. At least I learned a lesson in the process about being hasty and discovered that when you know what you're doing, the pump isn't actually hard, just tedious. The crank was the worst but PB blaster and two 5 ton pullers later, it was off. I gave it a judicious helping of 5W30 on the pulley itself so in the future it won't be so prone to welding itself to the crank. It was unreal how much effort it took to get it off. Stripped the first puller out. Zipped that bastard back on with an impact when it was all said and done and I surely won't be eager to do it again any time soon.
At any rate, progress! Another day, this weekend (my weekend, anyways, Wed Thurs) I'll drain it out and start flushing anew, hoping I don't see any friggin leaks due to mistakes or missed spots. Pretty sure we got that mating service nice and clean but I'm a glass half empty kinda guy
I've decided I want to backflush it this time rather than filling from the radiator over and over. Hoping that'll be a faster process. How would I do this? Disconnect lower rad hose for drainage, feed the garden hose water through one of the heater core hoses? Which one, top or bottom?
Gimme your flushing suggestions, this thing needs it bad and I want to do it right, I really don't want to do this process a THIRD time. It was a four hour job before flushing and it was still nasty, there has to be an easier way, and I'm told backflushing from the heater core is the way to go.
Also, next time I'm at my buddy's shed, I've got a couple hoses missing and or damaged I need to ID, and a loud hissing sound in the engine bay when running, hopefully I can get some leads on where its coming from, places to look. I'll take some pics and see if I can't vid the hissing. It sounds like upper intake but I don't know if the hissing sound is normal for these cars. It seems very loud to me, however.
Its a real shame that other pump was pissing everywhere as bad as it was... would've rather gotten clean water off that thing than potentially gumming up a new one.
Ah well. At least I learned a lesson in the process about being hasty and discovered that when you know what you're doing, the pump isn't actually hard, just tedious. The crank was the worst but PB blaster and two 5 ton pullers later, it was off. I gave it a judicious helping of 5W30 on the pulley itself so in the future it won't be so prone to welding itself to the crank. It was unreal how much effort it took to get it off. Stripped the first puller out. Zipped that bastard back on with an impact when it was all said and done and I surely won't be eager to do it again any time soon.
At any rate, progress! Another day, this weekend (my weekend, anyways, Wed Thurs) I'll drain it out and start flushing anew, hoping I don't see any friggin leaks due to mistakes or missed spots. Pretty sure we got that mating service nice and clean but I'm a glass half empty kinda guy
I've decided I want to backflush it this time rather than filling from the radiator over and over. Hoping that'll be a faster process. How would I do this? Disconnect lower rad hose for drainage, feed the garden hose water through one of the heater core hoses? Which one, top or bottom?
Gimme your flushing suggestions, this thing needs it bad and I want to do it right, I really don't want to do this process a THIRD time. It was a four hour job before flushing and it was still nasty, there has to be an easier way, and I'm told backflushing from the heater core is the way to go.
Also, next time I'm at my buddy's shed, I've got a couple hoses missing and or damaged I need to ID, and a loud hissing sound in the engine bay when running, hopefully I can get some leads on where its coming from, places to look. I'll take some pics and see if I can't vid the hissing. It sounds like upper intake but I don't know if the hissing sound is normal for these cars. It seems very loud to me, however.
07-09-2012 | 09:02 PM
#42
Whelp after much ado, we got the water pump installed. Its still got water in the block and it was late so we didn't drain the block (where are those drain plugs, by the way? Do these VGs have block drain plugs anywhere? The Haynes wasn't notably descriptive so I may have missed it) which means its staying cocked up at an angle to keep the nasty water off the pump until we start flushing this thing.
Its a real shame that other pump was pissing everywhere as bad as it was... would've rather gotten clean water off that thing than potentially gumming up a new one.
Ah well. At least I learned a lesson in the process about being hasty and discovered that when you know what you're doing, the pump isn't actually hard, just tedious. The crank was the worst but PB blaster and two 5 ton pullers later, it was off. I gave it a judicious helping of 5W30 on the pulley itself so in the future it won't be so prone to welding itself to the crank. It was unreal how much effort it took to get it off. Stripped the first puller out. Zipped that bastard back on with an impact when it was all said and done and I surely won't be eager to do it again any time soon.
At any rate, progress! Another day, this weekend (my weekend, anyways, Wed Thurs) I'll drain it out and start flushing anew, hoping I don't see any friggin leaks due to mistakes or missed spots. Pretty sure we got that mating service nice and clean but I'm a glass half empty kinda guy
I've decided I want to backflush it this time rather than filling from the radiator over and over. Hoping that'll be a faster process. How would I do this? Disconnect lower rad hose for drainage, feed the garden hose water through one of the heater core hoses? Which one, top or bottom?
Gimme your flushing suggestions, this thing needs it bad and I want to do it right, I really don't want to do this process a THIRD time. It was a four hour job before flushing and it was still nasty, there has to be an easier way, and I'm told backflushing from the heater core is the way to go.
Also, next time I'm at my buddy's shed, I've got a couple hoses missing and or damaged I need to ID, and a loud hissing sound in the engine bay when running, hopefully I can get some leads on where its coming from, places to look. I'll take some pics and see if I can't vid the hissing. It sounds like upper intake but I don't know if the hissing sound is normal for these cars. It seems very loud to me, however.
Its a real shame that other pump was pissing everywhere as bad as it was... would've rather gotten clean water off that thing than potentially gumming up a new one.
Ah well. At least I learned a lesson in the process about being hasty and discovered that when you know what you're doing, the pump isn't actually hard, just tedious. The crank was the worst but PB blaster and two 5 ton pullers later, it was off. I gave it a judicious helping of 5W30 on the pulley itself so in the future it won't be so prone to welding itself to the crank. It was unreal how much effort it took to get it off. Stripped the first puller out. Zipped that bastard back on with an impact when it was all said and done and I surely won't be eager to do it again any time soon.
At any rate, progress! Another day, this weekend (my weekend, anyways, Wed Thurs) I'll drain it out and start flushing anew, hoping I don't see any friggin leaks due to mistakes or missed spots. Pretty sure we got that mating service nice and clean but I'm a glass half empty kinda guy
I've decided I want to backflush it this time rather than filling from the radiator over and over. Hoping that'll be a faster process. How would I do this? Disconnect lower rad hose for drainage, feed the garden hose water through one of the heater core hoses? Which one, top or bottom?
Gimme your flushing suggestions, this thing needs it bad and I want to do it right, I really don't want to do this process a THIRD time. It was a four hour job before flushing and it was still nasty, there has to be an easier way, and I'm told backflushing from the heater core is the way to go.
Also, next time I'm at my buddy's shed, I've got a couple hoses missing and or damaged I need to ID, and a loud hissing sound in the engine bay when running, hopefully I can get some leads on where its coming from, places to look. I'll take some pics and see if I can't vid the hissing. It sounds like upper intake but I don't know if the hissing sound is normal for these cars. It seems very loud to me, however.
07-09-2012 | 11:18 PM
#43
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/1994/em.pdf
You will see the coolant drain plug locations on page EM-20
You will see the coolant drain plug locations on page EM-20
07-12-2012 | 12:36 PM
#44
Got the sucker flushed, water was NASTY. She runs a might bit cooler but the heater still doesn't work. I know it'll work... sometimes. I suspect the hose that runs off the intake into a thing on the firewall is probably the heater actuator, I have the hose pitifully ductaped to the intake tube on the upper manifold. I suspect strongly that this may or may not be why my heater doesn't work. What size is that hose? It seems wider on one end than the other, but maybe its been cut. I'm not sure.
At any rate, she runs a little cooler than before and thats good. still not drivable with the clutch acting up. Figured while it was idling I'd check which cylinders are dead. Disconnected juice from each cylinder one at a time from the distributor, confirmed that cylinders 3 and 2 are dead. No wonder she's a ***** to start and won't idle stably until warmed up. She's been running on four cylinders!
Buddy was a dumbass and didn't listen to me about not doing anything while I was in the shop digging around for tools. He decided to take initiative. Pulled the main circuit for the distributor and fried the hell out of himself.... bahahahaha I heard it from the shop thirty feet away, was pretty impressive to hear the loud crackling as it arced everywhere, and hear him screaming and jumping around like a madman. Strong spark at each cylinder and he confirms the main circuit felt strong, so at least I know the distributor is good.
Next up, is the clutch disengagement matter. After that, I'm replacing at least two injectors in the future. The exhaust leak is gonna have to stay, however. Don't have the tools to fix that myself and I"ve heard its quite the nightmare to deal with the exhaust manifold bolts. I'll pass!
At any rate, she runs a little cooler than before and thats good. still not drivable with the clutch acting up. Figured while it was idling I'd check which cylinders are dead. Disconnected juice from each cylinder one at a time from the distributor, confirmed that cylinders 3 and 2 are dead. No wonder she's a ***** to start and won't idle stably until warmed up. She's been running on four cylinders!
Buddy was a dumbass and didn't listen to me about not doing anything while I was in the shop digging around for tools. He decided to take initiative. Pulled the main circuit for the distributor and fried the hell out of himself.... bahahahaha I heard it from the shop thirty feet away, was pretty impressive to hear the loud crackling as it arced everywhere, and hear him screaming and jumping around like a madman. Strong spark at each cylinder and he confirms the main circuit felt strong, so at least I know the distributor is good.
Next up, is the clutch disengagement matter. After that, I'm replacing at least two injectors in the future. The exhaust leak is gonna have to stay, however. Don't have the tools to fix that myself and I"ve heard its quite the nightmare to deal with the exhaust manifold bolts. I'll pass!
07-12-2012 | 10:08 PM
#45
Got the sucker flushed, water was NASTY. She runs a might bit cooler but the heater still doesn't work. I know it'll work... sometimes. I suspect the hose that runs off the intake into a thing on the firewall is probably the heater actuator, I have the hose pitifully ductaped to the intake tube on the upper manifold. I suspect strongly that this may or may not be why my heater doesn't work. What size is that hose? It seems wider on one end than the other, but maybe its been cut. I'm not sure.
At any rate, she runs a little cooler than before and thats good. still not drivable with the clutch acting up. Figured while it was idling I'd check which cylinders are dead. Disconnected juice from each cylinder one at a time from the distributor, confirmed that cylinders 3 and 2 are dead. No wonder she's a ***** to start and won't idle stably until warmed up. She's been running on four cylinders!
Buddy was a dumbass and didn't listen to me about not doing anything while I was in the shop digging around for tools. He decided to take initiative. Pulled the main circuit for the distributor and fried the hell out of himself.... bahahahaha I heard it from the shop thirty feet away, was pretty impressive to hear the loud crackling as it arced everywhere, and hear him screaming and jumping around like a madman. Strong spark at each cylinder and he confirms the main circuit felt strong, so at least I know the distributor is good.
Next up, is the clutch disengagement matter. After that, I'm replacing at least two injectors in the future. The exhaust leak is gonna have to stay, however. Don't have the tools to fix that myself and I"ve heard its quite the nightmare to deal with the exhaust manifold bolts. I'll pass!
At any rate, she runs a little cooler than before and thats good. still not drivable with the clutch acting up. Figured while it was idling I'd check which cylinders are dead. Disconnected juice from each cylinder one at a time from the distributor, confirmed that cylinders 3 and 2 are dead. No wonder she's a ***** to start and won't idle stably until warmed up. She's been running on four cylinders!
Buddy was a dumbass and didn't listen to me about not doing anything while I was in the shop digging around for tools. He decided to take initiative. Pulled the main circuit for the distributor and fried the hell out of himself.... bahahahaha I heard it from the shop thirty feet away, was pretty impressive to hear the loud crackling as it arced everywhere, and hear him screaming and jumping around like a madman. Strong spark at each cylinder and he confirms the main circuit felt strong, so at least I know the distributor is good.
Next up, is the clutch disengagement matter. After that, I'm replacing at least two injectors in the future. The exhaust leak is gonna have to stay, however. Don't have the tools to fix that myself and I"ve heard its quite the nightmare to deal with the exhaust manifold bolts. I'll pass!
07-12-2012 | 11:18 PM
#46
Car has had all the hallmarks of dead cylinders from the get-go though, hard to start, RPMs race from stumbling at 400-500 to 1200 until warmed up, dies if I would push in the clutch too quickly.
Couldn't catch itself if you let off the throttle too quickly either, much like pushing in the clutch. (which could also be MAF/IAC, but those wouldn't explain the lack of idle change at 2 and 3) The idle didn't change at ALL when I pulled each wire at the distributor on cylinders 2 and 3. It was an obvious change with the other four.
She simply doesn't run well at ALL when cold, and until warmed up she tries hard not to die and stumbles like hell even if I give it some gas. Does idle relatively smooth though, but holding a steady throttle you can hear the missing pretty well, especially with that wicked exhaust leak making things a bit louder.
I'll try checking the connectors but I think its safe to say these injectors are toast.
While we're on the subject, as far as injectors go, I know we've got the write up but is there anything not really obvious that I should be aware of? Any favorite brand/sources for injectors? I've found some used and even remanned sets on ebay (a couple of the sellers seem like decent setups too, no shadetree sellers. Full on flow charts given, load tested, resistances, etc and the 1yr warranty behind them sounds like a fair deal for remanufactured) I'd rather go new but not sure I can swing the almost 600 bucks or more it'd cost for brand new OEM replacements. I do intend to do all six, why not since I'm already in there - unless I just financially can't do it. Is used even a bad idea? One guy even alleges 40k miles or less on the sets he's selling. I'd hit a yard around here but I don't think there's many J30s around here.
I'd certainly test each injector electrically before I installed it anyways. Rather not install one thats ready to die then have to tear that top end off again! I know theres colors to be worried about (why is this, by the way?), cleaning connectors, etc.
Last edited by Levsimus; 07-12-2012 at 11:20 PM.
07-13-2012 | 10:47 PM
#47
Nah, I've full confidence it was already running two dead cylinders, I don't think he's hurt anything besides his ego and himself haha!
Car has had all the hallmarks of dead cylinders from the get-go though, hard to start, RPMs race from stumbling at 400-500 to 1200 until warmed up, dies if I would push in the clutch too quickly.
Couldn't catch itself if you let off the throttle too quickly either, much like pushing in the clutch. (which could also be MAF/IAC, but those wouldn't explain the lack of idle change at 2 and 3) The idle didn't change at ALL when I pulled each wire at the distributor on cylinders 2 and 3. It was an obvious change with the other four.
She simply doesn't run well at ALL when cold, and until warmed up she tries hard not to die and stumbles like hell even if I give it some gas. Does idle relatively smooth though, but holding a steady throttle you can hear the missing pretty well, especially with that wicked exhaust leak making things a bit louder.
I'll try checking the connectors but I think its safe to say these injectors are toast.
While we're on the subject, as far as injectors go, I know we've got the write up but is there anything not really obvious that I should be aware of? Any favorite brand/sources for injectors? I've found some used and even remanned sets on ebay (a couple of the sellers seem like decent setups too, no shadetree sellers. Full on flow charts given, load tested, resistances, etc and the 1yr warranty behind them sounds like a fair deal for remanufactured) I'd rather go new but not sure I can swing the almost 600 bucks or more it'd cost for brand new OEM replacements. I do intend to do all six, why not since I'm already in there - unless I just financially can't do it. Is used even a bad idea? One guy even alleges 40k miles or less on the sets he's selling. I'd hit a yard around here but I don't think there's many J30s around here.
I'd certainly test each injector electrically before I installed it anyways. Rather not install one thats ready to die then have to tear that top end off again! I know theres colors to be worried about (why is this, by the way?), cleaning connectors, etc.
Car has had all the hallmarks of dead cylinders from the get-go though, hard to start, RPMs race from stumbling at 400-500 to 1200 until warmed up, dies if I would push in the clutch too quickly.
Couldn't catch itself if you let off the throttle too quickly either, much like pushing in the clutch. (which could also be MAF/IAC, but those wouldn't explain the lack of idle change at 2 and 3) The idle didn't change at ALL when I pulled each wire at the distributor on cylinders 2 and 3. It was an obvious change with the other four.
She simply doesn't run well at ALL when cold, and until warmed up she tries hard not to die and stumbles like hell even if I give it some gas. Does idle relatively smooth though, but holding a steady throttle you can hear the missing pretty well, especially with that wicked exhaust leak making things a bit louder.
I'll try checking the connectors but I think its safe to say these injectors are toast.
While we're on the subject, as far as injectors go, I know we've got the write up but is there anything not really obvious that I should be aware of? Any favorite brand/sources for injectors? I've found some used and even remanned sets on ebay (a couple of the sellers seem like decent setups too, no shadetree sellers. Full on flow charts given, load tested, resistances, etc and the 1yr warranty behind them sounds like a fair deal for remanufactured) I'd rather go new but not sure I can swing the almost 600 bucks or more it'd cost for brand new OEM replacements. I do intend to do all six, why not since I'm already in there - unless I just financially can't do it. Is used even a bad idea? One guy even alleges 40k miles or less on the sets he's selling. I'd hit a yard around here but I don't think there's many J30s around here.
I'd certainly test each injector electrically before I installed it anyways. Rather not install one thats ready to die then have to tear that top end off again! I know theres colors to be worried about (why is this, by the way?), cleaning connectors, etc.
07-16-2012 | 12:38 PM
#48
Hehe, yeah I figured OEM. I could just replace the two known bad injectors but common sense tells me two fresh and perfect firing injectors surrounded by mediocre, old injectors is just another headache down the road.
Buy once, cry once is probably going to be my justification on OEM. I'll have to research my options on this one before I jump on anything too soon. OEM seems the best but VERY expensive. My dad works at a Nissan dealership and even through him they're awfully spendy! Madness, I say.
Buy once, cry once is probably going to be my justification on OEM. I'll have to research my options on this one before I jump on anything too soon. OEM seems the best but VERY expensive. My dad works at a Nissan dealership and even through him they're awfully spendy! Madness, I say.
07-22-2012 | 04:20 AM
#49
Curious, the FSM says the tranny needs to come out the bottom. I don't have a service lift to do this. Is there something I'm missing here? Can I slide it over far enough to do what needs to be done? If it needs a service lift.... I don't know anyone out here with a lift. if its not the slave or master I'm likely going to have to throw in the towel.
I figure 1200 would probably move pretty quick, since the car is clean otherwise, I just don't have the time or space I thought I would and my helper buddy just got a new job that requires him to travel all over for weeks or months at a time.
Admittedly I didn't anticipate a clutch problem. Its an issue of disengagement it seems (car rolls under its own power with clutch floored in gear, doesn't like to shift while running), but if its beyond hydraulic I fear I may not have the means to do it myself and we assuredly cannot afford an $800 clutch job. Sigh, wish I was back home in OR. At least there I have shop space, tools and people to lean on!
I figure 1200 would probably move pretty quick, since the car is clean otherwise, I just don't have the time or space I thought I would and my helper buddy just got a new job that requires him to travel all over for weeks or months at a time.
Admittedly I didn't anticipate a clutch problem. Its an issue of disengagement it seems (car rolls under its own power with clutch floored in gear, doesn't like to shift while running), but if its beyond hydraulic I fear I may not have the means to do it myself and we assuredly cannot afford an $800 clutch job. Sigh, wish I was back home in OR. At least there I have shop space, tools and people to lean on!
07-22-2012 | 11:19 AM
#50
Hehe, yeah I figured OEM. I could just replace the two known bad injectors but common sense tells me two fresh and perfect firing injectors surrounded by mediocre, old injectors is just another headache down the road.
Buy once, cry once is probably going to be my justification on OEM. I'll have to research my options on this one before I jump on anything too soon. OEM seems the best but VERY expensive. My dad works at a Nissan dealership and even through him they're awfully spendy! Madness, I say.
Buy once, cry once is probably going to be my justification on OEM. I'll have to research my options on this one before I jump on anything too soon. OEM seems the best but VERY expensive. My dad works at a Nissan dealership and even through him they're awfully spendy! Madness, I say.
07-22-2012 | 01:11 PM
#51
sometimes you got to pay to play. Injectors are usually the most expensive thing one ever has to buy under the hood. Yes they cost a good chunk of what the car is worth, but how much is the car worth to you? If its taken care of you all these years, its time to return that. Especially for something so simple. I did it and glad I got it over with.
08-08-2012 | 07:27 PM
#52
EDIT: Sorry these were so big, they came off my phone, and on my tiny monitor they didn't look very big but once I'd uploaded them I see they've grown quite large!
Alright, got a slew of pictures, I was doing some rooting around under the hood to track the hissing sound... well I think I found it. I have a TON of vac hoses taht are toast, but none of them are even connected to their respective homes, so before I replace them, hopefully someone can help me ID where they go exactly so I'm not playing guess the smell with hoses.
I have an FSM I'm borrowing from my dad, but its not really giving me much to go on, I'm not good at reading hose diagrams since I don't know where half the parts they connect to ARE.
Alright, so starting from what the FSM says is the AAC we've got two hoses as pictured below:
they both seem to route down underneath the intake tube, terminating here into thin air
Where do these guys go?
But wait, theres more! Upon more inspection, trying to figure out where these little guys connect, I found this thing hanging off this black can, the FSM says it is a surge tank, I don't know what the hell it is, or does.
I'm suspecting, however that these hoses, all three, are somehow related to these two hoses here, coming off the... hell whats it called, power valve control solenoid valve/EGR control solenoid valve area.
One comes from underneath, the other comes off the right side of it where it splits in two directions. The red one is the one that begins underneath somewhere, the yellow is the other hose in question. Hopefully that makes this easier to reference. The green one is irrelevant, I marked it to separate it from the other two, specifically the one underneath so there was no confusion.
And finally, I found two MORE hoses coming from under the battery/coolant reservoir. They SEEM to be connected to some kind of metal canister thing underneath, I couldn't see it clearly so I'm not sure what it is, the FSM makes no reference to it either so I haven't a friggin clue where they connect to.
Hopefully one of you guys can help me out here, because I'm at a complete and absolute loss. The FSM does you no good if you don't know your way around!
Alright, got a slew of pictures, I was doing some rooting around under the hood to track the hissing sound... well I think I found it. I have a TON of vac hoses taht are toast, but none of them are even connected to their respective homes, so before I replace them, hopefully someone can help me ID where they go exactly so I'm not playing guess the smell with hoses.
I have an FSM I'm borrowing from my dad, but its not really giving me much to go on, I'm not good at reading hose diagrams since I don't know where half the parts they connect to ARE.
Alright, so starting from what the FSM says is the AAC we've got two hoses as pictured below:
they both seem to route down underneath the intake tube, terminating here into thin air
Where do these guys go?
But wait, theres more! Upon more inspection, trying to figure out where these little guys connect, I found this thing hanging off this black can, the FSM says it is a surge tank, I don't know what the hell it is, or does.
I'm suspecting, however that these hoses, all three, are somehow related to these two hoses here, coming off the... hell whats it called, power valve control solenoid valve/EGR control solenoid valve area.
One comes from underneath, the other comes off the right side of it where it splits in two directions. The red one is the one that begins underneath somewhere, the yellow is the other hose in question. Hopefully that makes this easier to reference. The green one is irrelevant, I marked it to separate it from the other two, specifically the one underneath so there was no confusion.
And finally, I found two MORE hoses coming from under the battery/coolant reservoir. They SEEM to be connected to some kind of metal canister thing underneath, I couldn't see it clearly so I'm not sure what it is, the FSM makes no reference to it either so I haven't a friggin clue where they connect to.
Hopefully one of you guys can help me out here, because I'm at a complete and absolute loss. The FSM does you no good if you don't know your way around!
08-08-2012 | 07:49 PM
#53
Originally Posted by Levsimus
EDIT: Sorry these were so big, they came off my phone, and on my tiny monitor they didn't look very big but once I'd uploaded them I see they've grown quite large!
Alright, got a slew of pictures, I was doing some rooting around under the hood to track the hissing sound... well I think I found it. I have a TON of vac hoses taht are toast, but none of them are even connected to their respective homes, so before I replace them, hopefully someone can help me ID where they go exactly so I'm not playing guess the smell with hoses.
I have an FSM I'm borrowing from my dad, but its not really giving me much to go on, I'm not good at reading hose diagrams since I don't know where half the parts they connect to ARE.
Alright, so starting from what the FSM says is the AAC we've got two hoses as pictured below:
they both seem to route down underneath the intake tube, terminating here into thin air
Where do these guys go?
But wait, theres more! Upon more inspection, trying to figure out where these little guys connect, I found this thing hanging off this black can, the FSM says it is a surge tank, I don't know what the hell it is, or does.
I'm suspecting, however that these hoses, all three, are somehow related to these two hoses here, coming off the... hell whats it called, power valve control solenoid valve/EGR control solenoid valve area.
One comes from underneath, the other comes off the right side of it where it splits in two directions. The red one is the one that begins underneath somewhere, the yellow is the other hose in question. Hopefully that makes this easier to reference. The green one is irrelevant, I marked it to separate it from the other two, specifically the one underneath so there was no confusion.
And finally, I found two MORE hoses coming from under the battery/coolant reservoir. They SEEM to be connected to some kind of metal canister thing underneath, I couldn't see it clearly so I'm not sure what it is, the FSM makes no reference to it either so I haven't a friggin clue where they connect to.
Hopefully one of you guys can help me out here, because I'm at a complete and absolute loss. The FSM does you no good if you don't know your way around!
Alright, got a slew of pictures, I was doing some rooting around under the hood to track the hissing sound... well I think I found it. I have a TON of vac hoses taht are toast, but none of them are even connected to their respective homes, so before I replace them, hopefully someone can help me ID where they go exactly so I'm not playing guess the smell with hoses.
I have an FSM I'm borrowing from my dad, but its not really giving me much to go on, I'm not good at reading hose diagrams since I don't know where half the parts they connect to ARE.
Alright, so starting from what the FSM says is the AAC we've got two hoses as pictured below:
they both seem to route down underneath the intake tube, terminating here into thin air
Where do these guys go?
But wait, theres more! Upon more inspection, trying to figure out where these little guys connect, I found this thing hanging off this black can, the FSM says it is a surge tank, I don't know what the hell it is, or does.
I'm suspecting, however that these hoses, all three, are somehow related to these two hoses here, coming off the... hell whats it called, power valve control solenoid valve/EGR control solenoid valve area.
One comes from underneath, the other comes off the right side of it where it splits in two directions. The red one is the one that begins underneath somewhere, the yellow is the other hose in question. Hopefully that makes this easier to reference. The green one is irrelevant, I marked it to separate it from the other two, specifically the one underneath so there was no confusion.
And finally, I found two MORE hoses coming from under the battery/coolant reservoir. They SEEM to be connected to some kind of metal canister thing underneath, I couldn't see it clearly so I'm not sure what it is, the FSM makes no reference to it either so I haven't a friggin clue where they connect to.
Hopefully one of you guys can help me out here, because I'm at a complete and absolute loss. The FSM does you no good if you don't know your way around!
08-08-2012 | 09:34 PM
#56
08-08-2012 | 09:38 PM
#57
Originally Posted by CMax03
08-08-2012 | 09:44 PM
#58
read this cardomain link:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/1993-nissan-maxima
full of all kinds of info regarding performance, vacuum hoses, electrical sensors, etc....
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/1993-nissan-maxima
full of all kinds of info regarding performance, vacuum hoses, electrical sensors, etc....
08-08-2012 | 10:29 PM
#60
Oh wow, that IS handy. Shoot, I might just be able to fix these hose routings after all!
I'm still curious what that pair of canister looking things (I think there was a smaller one, perhaps AC, but there was a bigger thing that I couldn't see, only feel, that the hoses went into) is under the battery/coolant overflow. I don't even know what section it'd be under to identify it, but it seems to have those two vac hoses coming out of it. I think that site covers the rest of the hose issues though.
I'm still curious what that pair of canister looking things (I think there was a smaller one, perhaps AC, but there was a bigger thing that I couldn't see, only feel, that the hoses went into) is under the battery/coolant overflow. I don't even know what section it'd be under to identify it, but it seems to have those two vac hoses coming out of it. I think that site covers the rest of the hose issues though.
08-09-2012 | 01:14 AM
#61
As for the following pic you took
Here is a picture I took of the evap canister that's underneath the battery. I pointed to the ports that the hoses it should connect to.
But from the pic you provided, the hose ports on the canister broke off. So you will need to either glue them back on or replace it.
Here is a picture I took of the evap canister that's underneath the battery. I pointed to the ports that the hoses it should connect to.
But from the pic you provided, the hose ports on the canister broke off. So you will need to either glue them back on or replace it.
08-15-2012 | 02:59 PM
#62
Whelp, thanks to everyone's help and jbbon's images, I got it figured out.
I did some more deductive reasoning and I figured out why I had those two busted hoses that were supposed to go to the evap canister, while also having two identical hoses coming OFF of the evap canister - I suspect the previous owner intended to replace the hoses with the broken ports and... well... simply never did. Left the canister unattached with its newer hoses, and the old broken and torn evap hoses attached to the engine.
I took the broken hoses off, hooked up the canister in their place and voila. Got the other hoses replaced/figured out using the massive stash of vac hoses I found in the trunk, and I think shes happier now. slight stumble when starting but no more 1500 to zero to 1500 idle anymore, she actually regulates herself now.
Ha, amazing. The injectors I suspected to be bad are very corroded at the plug and terminal, I'll try cleaning them (any suggestions for cleaning these tiny connections?) and see what happens but I'm sure they're toast.)
At any rate, the next issue at hand is the ever-present clutch disengagement matter. I did some messing aroudn nwo that it idles a bit more smoothly. I noticed when I press the clutch to the floor it won't let me shift into or out of gear easily, but if I let up slightly, maybe half to one inch, it'll shift in and out without complaint.
I admit I have not driven the car in this condition to test it, but I wanted some input before I get too excited at this new find. I cannot confirm whether it will work when moving. I will drive it around the field and see what happens, however and report back. Any suggestions? Could this be an adjustment issue or am I getting too hopeful?
EDIT:
Took it for a spin down the road and back, seems like upshifting isn't too much of an issue but if I'm coming up to a light and slow enough to jump into first, I can't until I'm stopped (and again, lifting the pedal slightly.) otherwise the lifting pedal trick SEEMS to work for upshifting. I'll admit however I'm terrible at rev matching so I've been a baddie and been braking up to lights out of habit. I haven't tried rev matching into gear, opting to shift into first as I slowly come to a stop (and there I have no luck as explained)
I did some more deductive reasoning and I figured out why I had those two busted hoses that were supposed to go to the evap canister, while also having two identical hoses coming OFF of the evap canister - I suspect the previous owner intended to replace the hoses with the broken ports and... well... simply never did. Left the canister unattached with its newer hoses, and the old broken and torn evap hoses attached to the engine.
I took the broken hoses off, hooked up the canister in their place and voila. Got the other hoses replaced/figured out using the massive stash of vac hoses I found in the trunk, and I think shes happier now. slight stumble when starting but no more 1500 to zero to 1500 idle anymore, she actually regulates herself now.
Ha, amazing. The injectors I suspected to be bad are very corroded at the plug and terminal, I'll try cleaning them (any suggestions for cleaning these tiny connections?) and see what happens but I'm sure they're toast.)
At any rate, the next issue at hand is the ever-present clutch disengagement matter. I did some messing aroudn nwo that it idles a bit more smoothly. I noticed when I press the clutch to the floor it won't let me shift into or out of gear easily, but if I let up slightly, maybe half to one inch, it'll shift in and out without complaint.
I admit I have not driven the car in this condition to test it, but I wanted some input before I get too excited at this new find. I cannot confirm whether it will work when moving. I will drive it around the field and see what happens, however and report back. Any suggestions? Could this be an adjustment issue or am I getting too hopeful?
EDIT:
Took it for a spin down the road and back, seems like upshifting isn't too much of an issue but if I'm coming up to a light and slow enough to jump into first, I can't until I'm stopped (and again, lifting the pedal slightly.) otherwise the lifting pedal trick SEEMS to work for upshifting. I'll admit however I'm terrible at rev matching so I've been a baddie and been braking up to lights out of habit. I haven't tried rev matching into gear, opting to shift into first as I slowly come to a stop (and there I have no luck as explained)
Last edited by Levsimus; 08-15-2012 at 03:18 PM.
08-15-2012 | 04:51 PM
#63
As for cleaning the lil plugs for the injectors theres a small file set you should find at a hardware store. The clutch sounds like an adjustment issue. Have you thoroughly bled the clutch? If so has the clutch pedal been tampered with? From there how worn is the clutch?
Matter of fact start that in the reverse order I gave it to you.
Matter of fact start that in the reverse order I gave it to you.
08-15-2012 | 06:02 PM
#64
As for cleaning the lil plugs for the injectors theres a small file set you should find at a hardware store. The clutch sounds like an adjustment issue. Have you thoroughly bled the clutch? If so has the clutch pedal been tampered with? From there how worn is the clutch?
Matter of fact start that in the reverse order I gave it to you.
Matter of fact start that in the reverse order I gave it to you.
I have no idea what condition the clutch is in, to be perfectly honest. I can assume it can't be too bad, I have not noticed any slippage, nor has anyone else, it grabs smoothly. I know motorcycle clutch feel better than cars, however, and while the concepts may be the same the feel is definitely not always the same thanks to bikes having wet clutches.
It has not been bled and I personally have done nothing to the clutch pedal myself. The FSM was a bit confusing and I need to track down my haynes manual to figure out how to adjust it. The fluid itself is dark, and maybe a couple mm below the bottom of the full line. I've no doubt it needs replacing but to be honest I wasn't entirely sure how to replace it - I figured if it was an obvious problem with a slave/master cylinder I'd just replace the entire hydraulics system and fill it with new fluid at that time.
I'm thinking a bleed or outright flush might be in order, but I wanted to bounce ideas off you more knowledgeable folks before just throwing time and effort at a solution that may not even be the fix. Broaden my attack options, if you will.
On an unrelated note, while rummaging around I found a few slips of off-white or yellowish paper with japanese on them, numbered 11 thru 13, listing information like my vehicle number (from the VIN) and that its a J30. What the heck are these? I can only assume they were part of the car's original paperwork when it was first shipped, but wondered if they were just trash or something worth hanging onto? I don't know Japanese at all!
Last edited by Levsimus; 08-15-2012 at 06:04 PM.
08-15-2012 | 06:53 PM
#65
U can drain the clutch fluid through the bleeder valve on the slave cycl. A lot of times the slave is the culprit but uncertain to say in your situation. I was having issues with mine so I replaced everything but the pedal assembly & bypassed the p.i.t.a. distributor block (makes life a whole lot easier when bleeding).
As for the the paper you found it sounds like a build sheet (list all options/everything that came with your car). I'd keep it. No one else I know of has one for their car. You could go to an online translation site or find someone to translate for you. I know how to read some of it and match the characters to the Japanese dialect, but from that to english I need the translation site.
As for the the paper you found it sounds like a build sheet (list all options/everything that came with your car). I'd keep it. No one else I know of has one for their car. You could go to an online translation site or find someone to translate for you. I know how to read some of it and match the characters to the Japanese dialect, but from that to english I need the translation site.
08-15-2012 | 08:46 PM
#66
U can drain the clutch fluid through the bleeder valve on the slave cycl. A lot of times the slave is the culprit but uncertain to say in your situation. I was having issues with mine so I replaced everything but the pedal assembly & bypassed the p.i.t.a. distributor block (makes life a whole lot easier when bleeding).
As for the the paper you found it sounds like a build sheet (list all options/everything that came with your car). I'd keep it. No one else I know of has one for their car. You could go to an online translation site or find someone to translate for you. I know how to read some of it and match the characters to the Japanese dialect, but from that to english I need the translation site.
As for the the paper you found it sounds like a build sheet (list all options/everything that came with your car). I'd keep it. No one else I know of has one for their car. You could go to an online translation site or find someone to translate for you. I know how to read some of it and match the characters to the Japanese dialect, but from that to english I need the translation site.
So that distribution block you mentioned, its not in the FSM that I could tell, I presume thats the ridiculously huge length of coiled up tubing, where the slave feeds into and then I assume routes to the master. What is that thing even for? I've never seen anything like it but I admit once again I know nothing of automotive hydraulic clutch systems. My bike's hydraulic system is so very simple in comparison!
You say you bypassed it so I assume its not doing anything worth having? If not, mind sharing how you did so? I was looking at it thinking how much o fa ***** it'd be to bleed with the air just bubbling up in those coils.
I think you're right, its probably the slave, likely I'd just replace both master and slave and be done with it, remove any potential issue there, and for 40 bucks its not like I'd be out a whole lot of money, they probably need replacing anyways. Hell, my brake booster/master cylinder for the brakes is leaking, probably why my brakes aren't very strong. Out with the old, in with the new! I'm just a weeeee bit scared of the bleeding/flushing process, I'm told its quite a pain, and its not a fast process even on the comparatively small brake/hydraulic clutch systems on motocycles. I let other people do it for me, too bad I never watched to learn the process.... :|
Last edited by Levsimus; 08-15-2012 at 08:48 PM.
08-16-2012 | 07:11 PM
#67
Originally Posted by Levsimus
Neat! I'll take a pic of them sometime and see what you might be able to get out of it. Only one of the three sheets I found has any non-form text on it. By that I mean its the only one of the three that had any of the blanks filled in, the other two are the same sheet, what appear to be the same (I don't know japanese to figure otu whether they are the same fields) fields across the board, just without anybody having put anything in for them! Kinda cool
So that distribution block you mentioned, its not in the FSM that I could tell, I presume thats the ridiculously huge length of coiled up tubing, where the slave feeds into and then I assume routes to the master. What is that thing even for? I've never seen anything like it but I admit once again I know nothing of automotive hydraulic clutch systems. My bike's hydraulic system is so very simple in comparison!
You say you bypassed it so I assume its not doing anything worth having? If not, mind sharing how you did so? I was looking at it thinking how much o fa ***** it'd be to bleed with the air just bubbling up in those coils.
I think you're right, its probably the slave, likely I'd just replace both master and slave and be done with it, remove any potential issue there, and for 40 bucks its not like I'd be out a whole lot of money, they probably need replacing anyways. Hell, my brake booster/master cylinder for the brakes is leaking, probably why my brakes aren't very strong. Out with the old, in with the new! I'm just a weeeee bit scared of the bleeding/flushing process, I'm told its quite a pain, and its not a fast process even on the comparatively small brake/hydraulic clutch systems on motocycles. I let other people do it for me, too bad I never watched to learn the process.... :|
Now I left the block as it because there is another line that runs through it. I can't remember for what but it is important. SO DON'T ELIMINATE THE BLOCK JUST BYPASS IT FOR THE CLUTCH. Pump the clutch and hold. Have a friend crack open the bleeder valve to let the air escape then close it quickly. Repeat until clutch firms up and no more air bubbles come out.
08-18-2012 | 01:01 AM
#68
Its not hard to do. I just ran a new hardline straight from the master cyl straight to the hose for the slave. Thats because I couldn't unscrew the hard line from the block(siezed). So I unscrewed from the master and ran another line.
Now I left the block as it because there is another line that runs through it. I can't remember for what but it is important. SO DON'T ELIMINATE THE BLOCK JUST BYPASS IT FOR THE CLUTCH. Pump the clutch and hold. Have a friend crack open the bleeder valve to let the air escape then close it quickly. Repeat until clutch firms up and no more air bubbles come out.
Now I left the block as it because there is another line that runs through it. I can't remember for what but it is important. SO DON'T ELIMINATE THE BLOCK JUST BYPASS IT FOR THE CLUTCH. Pump the clutch and hold. Have a friend crack open the bleeder valve to let the air escape then close it quickly. Repeat until clutch firms up and no more air bubbles come out.
Unless this was an OEM line and you're just holding out on me
08-18-2012 | 04:22 PM
#69
Actually it is an OEM line I ordered from Courtesy. I unraveled it by hand and route it the direction I wanted. The OEM lines have threaded fittings on them. So its really not that difficult.
08-29-2012 | 12:07 AM
#70
Eeeenteresting. I'll consider that route. Do you by chance have the part number laying around so I can price it out? Long shot but I'm not sure how to even identify the part to search for it.
On a side-note, I haven't had time to screw with the clutch issue but I did notice something while I was routing the vac hoses. I decided to experiment to deduce the nature of my speedo twitching/non-functioning issue. I disconnected the speed sensor and noticed the speedo still twitched at idle, bouncing around from zero to probably 20 or so.
This smacks of an electrical issue but I'm not convinced yet. Should I look into my cluster? I can't figure out how to test the speed sensor so I haven't even bothered to remove it yet. Something about testing resistance or some such. I saw a write-up on exactly how to do it but couldn't relocate it when I wanted to pull and test the bugger.
This car does have a lot of electrical oddities, no doubt due to age and sitting so long. Sometimes the dash clock runs insanely fast. Like, say, five minutes run by in a second or two. Sometimes it doesn't. Its real hit and miss, and the only time its behavior might change is if I turn the car off then restart it. Not predictable and certainly not consistent. The two surely can't be related but I don't even know where to begin. The clock running fast screams alternator though. I know my gas gauge can be iffy, it'll move up and down verrrry slowly as though the gas was sloshing around in the tank (not consistent) before settling down to a stable reading.
I admit my battery connections are shotty, I'm running a side-post battery with adapter posts screwed into it. They don't fit tight AT ALL -the coolant reservoir is wedged in well enough to keep the terminals from coming off the posts- and I'd be terribly surprised if this wasn't a pretty decent cause of at least the clock issue if not everything else. Just can't justify buying it a proper battery til I get it running. Bastards are expensive and Wyoming isn't terribly fond of batteries come winter if a car sits around.
perhaps I've already answered my own question - get a new CORRECT battery hahaha
Nonetheless mostly worried about the speedo matter, as it is certainly the most important. the ODO/Trip don't work at ALL and I don't believe cruise works either but I haven't mucked with that feature much yet.
On a side-note, I haven't had time to screw with the clutch issue but I did notice something while I was routing the vac hoses. I decided to experiment to deduce the nature of my speedo twitching/non-functioning issue. I disconnected the speed sensor and noticed the speedo still twitched at idle, bouncing around from zero to probably 20 or so.
This smacks of an electrical issue but I'm not convinced yet. Should I look into my cluster? I can't figure out how to test the speed sensor so I haven't even bothered to remove it yet. Something about testing resistance or some such. I saw a write-up on exactly how to do it but couldn't relocate it when I wanted to pull and test the bugger.
This car does have a lot of electrical oddities, no doubt due to age and sitting so long. Sometimes the dash clock runs insanely fast. Like, say, five minutes run by in a second or two. Sometimes it doesn't. Its real hit and miss, and the only time its behavior might change is if I turn the car off then restart it. Not predictable and certainly not consistent. The two surely can't be related but I don't even know where to begin. The clock running fast screams alternator though. I know my gas gauge can be iffy, it'll move up and down verrrry slowly as though the gas was sloshing around in the tank (not consistent) before settling down to a stable reading.
I admit my battery connections are shotty, I'm running a side-post battery with adapter posts screwed into it. They don't fit tight AT ALL -the coolant reservoir is wedged in well enough to keep the terminals from coming off the posts- and I'd be terribly surprised if this wasn't a pretty decent cause of at least the clock issue if not everything else. Just can't justify buying it a proper battery til I get it running. Bastards are expensive and Wyoming isn't terribly fond of batteries come winter if a car sits around.
perhaps I've already answered my own question - get a new CORRECT battery hahaha
Nonetheless mostly worried about the speedo matter, as it is certainly the most important. the ODO/Trip don't work at ALL and I don't believe cruise works either but I haven't mucked with that feature much yet.
09-26-2012 | 03:12 PM
#71
Well, over the last few weeks of absence, I've begun to slowly work toward replacing the clutch. Its been quite a journey so far. The axle nut was effed. Previous owner obviously intended to do the clutch or replace the axle and couldn't get the nut off. Instead of continually trying, they tried chiseling.
Needless to say, it explains why one axle looked new (pass side) and one looked original (drv side) the damn nut was toast. Had to remove entire hub assembly with the axle attached but I succeded nonethless. May have to replace the hub assembly (hint hint, in case anyone has one laying around, don't need caliper, rotor, just the hub assembly) if I can't get the nut off.
Anyways, got everything disconnected except the shifter linkage and had a question - do I NEED to remove pass side axle for a clutch job? That side LOOKS doable, but id rather not deal with it if I don't have to.
Also, if I have to use a regular floor jack, which way does our VG tranny tend to lean so I'm prepared come time to maneuver it? Ideally I won't have to, but if my loaner doesn't pan out, I will need to.
Needless to say, it explains why one axle looked new (pass side) and one looked original (drv side) the damn nut was toast. Had to remove entire hub assembly with the axle attached but I succeded nonethless. May have to replace the hub assembly (hint hint, in case anyone has one laying around, don't need caliper, rotor, just the hub assembly) if I can't get the nut off.
Anyways, got everything disconnected except the shifter linkage and had a question - do I NEED to remove pass side axle for a clutch job? That side LOOKS doable, but id rather not deal with it if I don't have to.
Also, if I have to use a regular floor jack, which way does our VG tranny tend to lean so I'm prepared come time to maneuver it? Ideally I won't have to, but if my loaner doesn't pan out, I will need to.
09-26-2012 | 09:58 PM
#72
Originally Posted by Levsimus
Well, over the last few weeks of absence, I've begun to slowly work toward replacing the clutch. Its been quite a journey so far. The axle nut was effed. Previous owner obviously intended to do the clutch or replace the axle and couldn't get the nut off. Instead of continually trying, they tried chiseling.
Needless to say, it explains why one axle looked new (pass side) and one looked original (drv side) the damn nut was toast. Had to remove entire hub assembly with the axle attached but I succeded nonethless. May have to replace the hub assembly (hint hint, in case anyone has one laying around, don't need caliper, rotor, just the hub assembly) if I can't get the nut off.
Anyways, got everything disconnected except the shifter linkage and had a question - do I NEED to remove pass side axle for a clutch job? That side LOOKS doable, but id rather not deal with it if I don't have to.
Also, if I have to use a regular floor jack, which way does our VG tranny tend to lean so I'm prepared come time to maneuver it? Ideally I won't have to, but if my loaner doesn't pan out, I will need to.
Needless to say, it explains why one axle looked new (pass side) and one looked original (drv side) the damn nut was toast. Had to remove entire hub assembly with the axle attached but I succeded nonethless. May have to replace the hub assembly (hint hint, in case anyone has one laying around, don't need caliper, rotor, just the hub assembly) if I can't get the nut off.
Anyways, got everything disconnected except the shifter linkage and had a question - do I NEED to remove pass side axle for a clutch job? That side LOOKS doable, but id rather not deal with it if I don't have to.
Also, if I have to use a regular floor jack, which way does our VG tranny tend to lean so I'm prepared come time to maneuver it? Ideally I won't have to, but if my loaner doesn't pan out, I will need to.
09-29-2012 | 01:38 AM
#73
Fair enough, any particular reason for pulling it? I mean, logic dictates that durr, pull axle, receive transmission, but after doing research it seems that with many FWD cars (and the VGs too) people are all doing them leaving the pass axle in.
Was just curious is all, their reasoning for or against doing so. Probably best that I do it right the first time, as you said, THEN worry about 'shortcuts' for next time. Does it really make it any easier for people to bypass the passenger side axle? Whats the hangup with leaving it in?
Was just curious is all, their reasoning for or against doing so. Probably best that I do it right the first time, as you said, THEN worry about 'shortcuts' for next time. Does it really make it any easier for people to bypass the passenger side axle? Whats the hangup with leaving it in?
09-29-2012 | 07:47 PM
#74
Originally Posted by Levsimus
Fair enough, any particular reason for pulling it? I mean, logic dictates that durr, pull axle, receive transmission, but after doing research it seems that with many FWD cars (and the VGs too) people are all doing them leaving the pass axle in.
Was just curious is all, their reasoning for or against doing so. Probably best that I do it right the first time, as you said, THEN worry about 'shortcuts' for next time. Does it really make it any easier for people to bypass the passenger side axle? Whats the hangup with leaving it in?
Was just curious is all, their reasoning for or against doing so. Probably best that I do it right the first time, as you said, THEN worry about 'shortcuts' for next time. Does it really make it any easier for people to bypass the passenger side axle? Whats the hangup with leaving it in?
10-02-2012 | 10:18 PM
#75
Fair enough.
Before I tackle this (it has been confirmed I'm not going to have a transmission jack for this project) any rough idea on the center point of the tranny is? Rather, where you'd recommend centering up my floor jack in hopes to keep this sucker as stable as possible?
Long shot, but I can't be the only person to have used a floor jack. Some of you badasses may have even just hulked it but I'm not taking any chances, being the meek chump that I am - it probably weighs more than I do
I'd just rather not have to JB weld my transmission housing because my dumbass dropped it off the jack by being unprepared.
Before I tackle this (it has been confirmed I'm not going to have a transmission jack for this project) any rough idea on the center point of the tranny is? Rather, where you'd recommend centering up my floor jack in hopes to keep this sucker as stable as possible?
Long shot, but I can't be the only person to have used a floor jack. Some of you badasses may have even just hulked it but I'm not taking any chances, being the meek chump that I am - it probably weighs more than I do
I'd just rather not have to JB weld my transmission housing because my dumbass dropped it off the jack by being unprepared.
10-03-2012 | 12:15 AM
#76
Originally Posted by Levsimus
Fair enough.
Before I tackle this (it has been confirmed I'm not going to have a transmission jack for this project) any rough idea on the center point of the tranny is? Rather, where you'd recommend centering up my floor jack in hopes to keep this sucker as stable as possible?
Long shot, but I can't be the only person to have used a floor jack. Some of you badasses may have even just hulked it but I'm not taking any chances, being the meek chump that I am - it probably weighs more than I do
I'd just rather not have to JB weld my transmission housing because my dumbass dropped it off the jack by being unprepared.
Before I tackle this (it has been confirmed I'm not going to have a transmission jack for this project) any rough idea on the center point of the tranny is? Rather, where you'd recommend centering up my floor jack in hopes to keep this sucker as stable as possible?
Long shot, but I can't be the only person to have used a floor jack. Some of you badasses may have even just hulked it but I'm not taking any chances, being the meek chump that I am - it probably weighs more than I do
I'd just rather not have to JB weld my transmission housing because my dumbass dropped it off the jack by being unprepared.
11-21-2012 | 10:43 PM
#77
Whelp I've been slacking on finishing up the clutch job. Car has been in pieces for quite a while. I'm ready to throw the tranny back on but the issue I'm having is discouraging. The clutch alignment tool I got with the kit doesn't fit well in the crank. Its loose, and there was no pilot bushing or bearing to speak of.
Along those same lines, the kit CAME with a bronze/brass bushing but it is half to a full mill too large for the hole. I did some googling and it seems this is NORMAL and I do not NEED to put this in.
HOWEVER - with this being the case, not having that bugger in there is making it near impossible to get my clutch aligned. I had everything bolted on and was trying to put the tranny back on but it was hanging up on what I can only assume was the clutch.
Now looking at it, it looked quite off center so I unbolted everything (had to put that spacer gasket back in, I forgot to the first time!) and thats when it all clicked - The alignment tool is doing me no good.
Now I can only imagine I'm not the only idiot with this issue. I surmised I could simply cut the end off the alignment tool leaving only the splines and the wider part of the tool, which I am estimating to be roughly the width of the hole but the lack of a pilot bushjing concerns me. It didn't have one when I took the tranny off. Looking at the input shaft it doesn't appear that it even goes into the crank anyways so I feel like the real issue is simply a solution to my clutch alignment issue.
I once heard of a trick where you put the tranny half-on and tighten the pressure through the starter hole. Couldn't find the story on that, but it was an auto to MT swap if I recall.
Either way, is there a trick to this? Its very frustrating and I so badly want to be done with this job. The constant setbacks and issues keep me from finishing this up simply by virtue of demoralization
Thanks for all your insight, ladies and gents, you guys have been a great help so far and this car has taken me quite a ways in the education department. Been learning a LOT about wrenching, as frustrating as the lessons have been!
Along those same lines, the kit CAME with a bronze/brass bushing but it is half to a full mill too large for the hole. I did some googling and it seems this is NORMAL and I do not NEED to put this in.
HOWEVER - with this being the case, not having that bugger in there is making it near impossible to get my clutch aligned. I had everything bolted on and was trying to put the tranny back on but it was hanging up on what I can only assume was the clutch.
Now looking at it, it looked quite off center so I unbolted everything (had to put that spacer gasket back in, I forgot to the first time!) and thats when it all clicked - The alignment tool is doing me no good.
Now I can only imagine I'm not the only idiot with this issue. I surmised I could simply cut the end off the alignment tool leaving only the splines and the wider part of the tool, which I am estimating to be roughly the width of the hole but the lack of a pilot bushjing concerns me. It didn't have one when I took the tranny off. Looking at the input shaft it doesn't appear that it even goes into the crank anyways so I feel like the real issue is simply a solution to my clutch alignment issue.
I once heard of a trick where you put the tranny half-on and tighten the pressure through the starter hole. Couldn't find the story on that, but it was an auto to MT swap if I recall.
Either way, is there a trick to this? Its very frustrating and I so badly want to be done with this job. The constant setbacks and issues keep me from finishing this up simply by virtue of demoralization
Thanks for all your insight, ladies and gents, you guys have been a great help so far and this car has taken me quite a ways in the education department. Been learning a LOT about wrenching, as frustrating as the lessons have been!
11-22-2012 | 12:26 PM
#78
Originally Posted by Levsimus
Whelp I've been slacking on finishing up the clutch job. Car has been in pieces for quite a while. I'm ready to throw the tranny back on but the issue I'm having is discouraging. The clutch alignment tool I got with the kit doesn't fit well in the crank. Its loose, and there was no pilot bushing or bearing to speak of.
Along those same lines, the kit CAME with a bronze/brass bushing but it is half to a full mill too large for the hole. I did some googling and it seems this is NORMAL and I do not NEED to put this in.
HOWEVER - with this being the case, not having that bugger in there is making it near impossible to get my clutch aligned. I had everything bolted on and was trying to put the tranny back on but it was hanging up on what I can only assume was the clutch.
Now looking at it, it looked quite off center so I unbolted everything (had to put that spacer gasket back in, I forgot to the first time!) and thats when it all clicked - The alignment tool is doing me no good.
Now I can only imagine I'm not the only idiot with this issue. I surmised I could simply cut the end off the alignment tool leaving only the splines and the wider part of the tool, which I am estimating to be roughly the width of the hole but the lack of a pilot bushjing concerns me. It didn't have one when I took the tranny off. Looking at the input shaft it doesn't appear that it even goes into the crank anyways so I feel like the real issue is simply a solution to my clutch alignment issue.
I once heard of a trick where you put the tranny half-on and tighten the pressure through the starter hole. Couldn't find the story on that, but it was an auto to MT swap if I recall.
Either way, is there a trick to this? Its very frustrating and I so badly want to be done with this job. The constant setbacks and issues keep me from finishing this up simply by virtue of demoralization
Thanks for all your insight, ladies and gents, you guys have been a great help so far and this car has taken me quite a ways in the education department. Been learning a LOT about wrenching, as frustrating as the lessons have been!
Along those same lines, the kit CAME with a bronze/brass bushing but it is half to a full mill too large for the hole. I did some googling and it seems this is NORMAL and I do not NEED to put this in.
HOWEVER - with this being the case, not having that bugger in there is making it near impossible to get my clutch aligned. I had everything bolted on and was trying to put the tranny back on but it was hanging up on what I can only assume was the clutch.
Now looking at it, it looked quite off center so I unbolted everything (had to put that spacer gasket back in, I forgot to the first time!) and thats when it all clicked - The alignment tool is doing me no good.
Now I can only imagine I'm not the only idiot with this issue. I surmised I could simply cut the end off the alignment tool leaving only the splines and the wider part of the tool, which I am estimating to be roughly the width of the hole but the lack of a pilot bushjing concerns me. It didn't have one when I took the tranny off. Looking at the input shaft it doesn't appear that it even goes into the crank anyways so I feel like the real issue is simply a solution to my clutch alignment issue.
I once heard of a trick where you put the tranny half-on and tighten the pressure through the starter hole. Couldn't find the story on that, but it was an auto to MT swap if I recall.
Either way, is there a trick to this? Its very frustrating and I so badly want to be done with this job. The constant setbacks and issues keep me from finishing this up simply by virtue of demoralization
Thanks for all your insight, ladies and gents, you guys have been a great help so far and this car has taken me quite a ways in the education department. Been learning a LOT about wrenching, as frustrating as the lessons have been!
11-22-2012 | 12:56 PM
#79
Well, looking at the thing, I think it HAS a pilot bushing, but its behind a larger plate thing. The automatic pilot bushing I think its called. It has a groove behind it, then it narrows again to the same diameter as the outer ring/plate thing. I've looked through the FSM and haynes book but unless I'm missing it, I haven't found any mention of a pilot bushing. I find it hard to believe this thing doesn't exist however. It clearly does.
I really honestly and truly don't see how a pilot bushing would fit into the crank without interfering somehow. Perhaps the bushing I have is the wrong one but I'm suspecting more given the input shaft's shape (very short aside from the splined section, doesn't have a long... probe? nub? on the end to slide into the crank, therefore implying it doesn't even touch the crank anyways) that even if I managed to get one in, all it'd be for is the alignment as you've implied. I'm not sure I could justify to myself (I'm a tight-*** through and through, especially on this car since as great a car as she is, she's a basket case) spending any extra money to get her done if I don't have to.
Then again, that mentality is only creating headaches trying to find workarounds so I suppose I'm chasing my own tail to an extent too. I suppose I'm young and dumb, with time I'll learn theres always time to do it right but never enough to do it twice... heh.
It just seems odd to me that they'd design it this way if it truly doesn't even NEED a bushing to begin with. Why even add the extra part or step instead of setting it up so you can easily align the clutch... I suspect this has more to do with the kits being cross compatible than Nissan, however. I'm sure the Maxima isn't the ONLY car out there to use this same kit and I suppose it would certainly suck more to have to make fifty different clutch kits for the same range of cars that realisitically could do with two or three compatible sets.
I really honestly and truly don't see how a pilot bushing would fit into the crank without interfering somehow. Perhaps the bushing I have is the wrong one but I'm suspecting more given the input shaft's shape (very short aside from the splined section, doesn't have a long... probe? nub? on the end to slide into the crank, therefore implying it doesn't even touch the crank anyways) that even if I managed to get one in, all it'd be for is the alignment as you've implied. I'm not sure I could justify to myself (I'm a tight-*** through and through, especially on this car since as great a car as she is, she's a basket case) spending any extra money to get her done if I don't have to.
Then again, that mentality is only creating headaches trying to find workarounds so I suppose I'm chasing my own tail to an extent too. I suppose I'm young and dumb, with time I'll learn theres always time to do it right but never enough to do it twice... heh.
It just seems odd to me that they'd design it this way if it truly doesn't even NEED a bushing to begin with. Why even add the extra part or step instead of setting it up so you can easily align the clutch... I suspect this has more to do with the kits being cross compatible than Nissan, however. I'm sure the Maxima isn't the ONLY car out there to use this same kit and I suppose it would certainly suck more to have to make fifty different clutch kits for the same range of cars that realisitically could do with two or three compatible sets.
11-23-2012 | 11:22 AM
#80
Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 202
From: North West Missouri
1990 Maxima, 99 problems and a blown motor ain't one.
If you're having car problems I feel bad for you son
I got 99 problems and a blown motor ain’t one
Tip my hat to the sun in the west
Feel the beat right in my chest
At the crossroads a second time
Make the devil change his mind.
It's a pound of flesh but it's really a ton
99 problems and a blown motor ain’t one
If you're having car problems I feel bad for you son
I got 99 problems and a blown motor ain’t one
99 problems
But a blown motor ain’t one.
Like busted rods or I'm gonna be beat
I could lose my engine in this heat
Looking for the prize but I don’t want to toil
I order one quart then I drink the oil
Well, you can come inside but your problems can’t come
99 problems and a blown motor ain’t one
If you're having car problems I feel bad for you son
I got 99 problems and a blown motor ain’t one
I got 99
99
99
99
99 problems
But a blown motor ain’t one.
99
99 problems and a blown motor ain’t one
