Ever since I redid my exhaust system I've been having an issue with my fuel system. I checked my ecu for codes but nothing. I ran diagnostics of ignition, fuel, emissions, exhaust and charging systems but found nothing. This is an intermittent issue so I started running realtime diagnostic and got the code for the engine temp sensor. I'm waiting for the part from Nissan to come in since AZ's part didn't fit properly. The only other suspect part is the power valve control solenoid body has crack (waiting on that also). I know the ets plays a role in the system but I've never seen it cause a cylinder to miss like this. It's missing on cylinder 1 intermittently and has to be this cause I can't find anything else wrong. Has anybody had this happen to them with there 3rdgen?

 

you most likely have a dying injector...3rd gen injectors are famous for intermittent failure before complete failure...

 

^^^ I learned that the hard way.

 

The injectors have been replaced and still ohm within spec, I didn't specify every component because I stated what systems I did diagnostics. Simply put, the fuel injectors check out fine and not because they have been replaced since I bought her because
I tested them. The fuel pressure holds after key off, so no leaky injectors, no bad check valve or bad fuel line. Fuel pressure regulator is working properly when tested, fuel pump is new and been tested and sending unit has been tested. Appreciate your response regardless.

 

I have (as did a lot of others here too) on many occasions tried to debunk this myth that injectors are fine when they measure fine ito static resistance.

Once again its a fallacy - injectors have an electrical and a mechanical component - being able to measure a "good" value for the coil resistance simply means exactly that and nothing more - the coil creates a magnetic field and the mechanical part of the injector is actuated as a result ....................... no coil resistance measurement can determine that any given injector is mechanically fine - even if its just been "replaced" or "looking good" to the eye - period.

 

I appreciate your contribution to this thread and I'm fully aware that an injector can fail regardless of the ohm measurements. It's highly unlikely that this injector is failing but I'll pull her out and swap with one from my spare set. I just hate to pull something out that has been replaced or repaired already. It has been like 2 years since I replaced them with oem injectors but maybe this one is defective. I just did up the entire exhaust from the headers to the muffler and just want to see how she responds to the new headers/muffler but can't because of this issue. When she's running good she sounds/feels great but even then I know she's not at 100%. I'm going to swap the injectors today and I'll report back. Good look on the suggestions guys.

 

Can I suggest you do not go and introduce yet another unknown variable then?

If you are quite confident that none of the other cylinders are misfiring (or then injectors on the engine is causing hassles) why not swap a known good performing injector with that funky injector and see if the issue moves with the injector - all off the same rail?

 

Now that you mention this I think I will try it out and see what happens.
Of course my Lude wants to act up because I'm in the middle of paying more attention to my older ride(Maxima). The injectors can be a PITA on the VG, especially the front rail(2,4 & 6).

 

Before you mess with the injectors, replace the engine temp sensor, clean the connections on the plug, and make sure the wiring itself isn't damaged. the wiring on these cars is quite odl and the insulation is cracking in places on many. If you got an error from the ECU, eliminate that before you go looking for other issues.

That said, the injector you're mentioning could be clogged--- not bad or defective, just clogged. the ethanol in the fuel they use today does a number on our cars' fuel systems and the interior of our fuel lines has been known to break up and these little bits clog the fuel filter and sometimes injectors. (there's rubber in the fuel system past the injectors, so it's possible...) I've seen it happen a few times.

In this case, sometimes a good fuel injector cleaning solution like BG-44k will help, but not always.

best way to check this is to pull the entire fuel rail out of the car, while connected, and then crank the engine and check the spray patterns of each injector. this is of course easier said than done.. on my 240SX, this is very easy since I don't have to pull the intake manifold. 10-15 min job.


But yes, a failing engine temp sensor can cause the car to run stupid rich. the ECU defaults to a rich-run scheme when the engine is cold and/or when the temp sensor is failing. I had one car sputter and die on the side of the road, unable to restart when the temp sensor went bad. good thing was I was on a back road 1/2 mile from home. it was a quick tow back to the house, but then a long run of parts swapping ignition and fuel injectors until the ECU finally spit out an engine temp sensor code. replaced it for $12 from parts store and all was good again.

 

I just received my Nissan brand Engine temp sensor this afternoon and I'm actually getting ready to install right now. I've already replaced the injector connectors on that side because the boots were all dry rotted and looked nasty. I replaced the temp switch with a new one a couple of days ago, even though it functioned fine(new looks nice). I've been trying to replace/rewire any connectors/leads that look suspect, trying to get the engine bay back to stage 0 look. I had to run real time diagnostics just to get the code for the engine temp sensor because it was so intermittent.