Is bad engine mount a serious problem?
Is bad engine mount a serious problem?
Engine mount is nothng but 3 pieces of rubber, right? A mechanic said it is the bad mounts cause my Maxima to shake when stopping at a light. He said it is not a big problem to be fixed urgently.
I remember some guy here said bad mount finally will ruin the motor and tranny, is that true?
Do I need to replace the mounts? Shop said they are $100 each to replace.
I remember some guy here said bad mount finally will ruin the motor and tranny, is that true?
Do I need to replace the mounts? Shop said they are $100 each to replace.
it won't do a durn thing to your engine to have bad mounts, but it WILL cause vibrations- both while stopped and driving.
the other drawback is that the engine sits in the engine bay crooked, and causes more wear on CV joints and stresses your exhaust studs. (with a crooked engine, the back of the exhaust is pulling on the Y pipe, which is connected to the engine through the exhaust studs- a known weak point on our cars)..
so I'd recommend getting it fixed when you can, as exhaust studs are $300/side to replace, and CV joints are about $200/side.
Sooo, there's $1000 in repair right there because you decided to put off a $100 job for too long.
the other drawback is that the engine sits in the engine bay crooked, and causes more wear on CV joints and stresses your exhaust studs. (with a crooked engine, the back of the exhaust is pulling on the Y pipe, which is connected to the engine through the exhaust studs- a known weak point on our cars)..
so I'd recommend getting it fixed when you can, as exhaust studs are $300/side to replace, and CV joints are about $200/side.
Sooo, there's $1000 in repair right there because you decided to put off a $100 job for too long.
Originally posted by 92ZexMaximaSE
What do u think it could be if you have replaced your cv joints and still hear that clicking noise when you turn especially on cold days.
What do u think it could be if you have replaced your cv joints and still hear that clicking noise when you turn especially on cold days.
Originally posted by 92ZexMaximaSE
What do u think it could be if you have replaced your cv joints and still hear that clicking noise when you turn especially on cold days.
What do u think it could be if you have replaced your cv joints and still hear that clicking noise when you turn especially on cold days.
Originally posted by Matt93SE
it won't do a durn thing to your engine to have bad mounts, but it WILL cause vibrations- both while stopped and driving.
the other drawback is that the engine sits in the engine bay crooked, and causes more wear on CV joints and stresses your exhaust studs. (with a crooked engine, the back of the exhaust is pulling on the Y pipe, which is connected to the engine through the exhaust studs- a known weak point on our cars)..
so I'd recommend getting it fixed when you can, as exhaust studs are $300/side to replace, and CV joints are about $200/side.
Sooo, there's $1000 in repair right there because you decided to put off a $100 job for too long.
it won't do a durn thing to your engine to have bad mounts, but it WILL cause vibrations- both while stopped and driving.
the other drawback is that the engine sits in the engine bay crooked, and causes more wear on CV joints and stresses your exhaust studs. (with a crooked engine, the back of the exhaust is pulling on the Y pipe, which is connected to the engine through the exhaust studs- a known weak point on our cars)..
so I'd recommend getting it fixed when you can, as exhaust studs are $300/side to replace, and CV joints are about $200/side.
Sooo, there's $1000 in repair right there because you decided to put off a $100 job for too long.
Matt,
I'm not questioning your knowledge of the Maxima. However, I do feel that worn/broken engine mounts can lead to transmission problems.
Here's why: If an engine mount (or mounts) is (are) broken, they place stress on other things, the engine is uneven and pulls down on the tranny, wearing away the transmission mount. A broken transmission mount leads to the tranny straining, overheating, and consequently dying.
I know this because it happened to me.
I'm not questioning your knowledge of the Maxima. However, I do feel that worn/broken engine mounts can lead to transmission problems.
Here's why: If an engine mount (or mounts) is (are) broken, they place stress on other things, the engine is uneven and pulls down on the tranny, wearing away the transmission mount. A broken transmission mount leads to the tranny straining, overheating, and consequently dying.
I know this because it happened to me.
Originally posted by Matt93SE
it won't do a durn thing to your engine to have bad mounts, but it WILL cause vibrations- both while stopped and driving.
the other drawback is that the engine sits in the engine bay crooked, and causes more wear on CV joints and stresses your exhaust studs. (with a crooked engine, the back of the exhaust is pulling on the Y pipe, which is connected to the engine through the exhaust studs- a known weak point on our cars)..
so I'd recommend getting it fixed when you can, as exhaust studs are $300/side to replace, and CV joints are about $200/side.
Sooo, there's $1000 in repair right there because you decided to put off a $100 job for too long.
it won't do a durn thing to your engine to have bad mounts, but it WILL cause vibrations- both while stopped and driving.
the other drawback is that the engine sits in the engine bay crooked, and causes more wear on CV joints and stresses your exhaust studs. (with a crooked engine, the back of the exhaust is pulling on the Y pipe, which is connected to the engine through the exhaust studs- a known weak point on our cars)..
so I'd recommend getting it fixed when you can, as exhaust studs are $300/side to replace, and CV joints are about $200/side.
Sooo, there's $1000 in repair right there because you decided to put off a $100 job for too long.
Mounts are pretty cheap. NissanParts.cc has then for around $50 each. Strauss/autozone has the same prices. Installation should be around $35 per mount.
you're better off replacing em all at once.
you're better off replacing em all at once.
Originally posted by Pervis Anathema
Matt, engine mount replacement is only $100?!? I thought that the mounts alone were 3 times that much... What can I expect to spend for OEM parts and a professional mechanic?
Matt, engine mount replacement is only $100?!? I thought that the mounts alone were 3 times that much... What can I expect to spend for OEM parts and a professional mechanic?
Originally posted by Sudesh
Matt,
I'm not questioning your knowledge of the Maxima. However, I do feel that worn/broken engine mounts can lead to transmission problems.
Here's why: If an engine mount (or mounts) is (are) broken, they place stress on other things, the engine is uneven and pulls down on the tranny, wearing away the transmission mount. A broken transmission mount leads to the tranny straining, overheating, and consequently dying.
I know this because it happened to me.
Matt,
I'm not questioning your knowledge of the Maxima. However, I do feel that worn/broken engine mounts can lead to transmission problems.
Here's why: If an engine mount (or mounts) is (are) broken, they place stress on other things, the engine is uneven and pulls down on the tranny, wearing away the transmission mount. A broken transmission mount leads to the tranny straining, overheating, and consequently dying.
I know this because it happened to me.
you had other problems before that, as bad engine/tranny mounts won't cause overheating.
at worst case, it will cause misalignment on the CV joints and cause the joints to wear out.
every time you hit a bump or turn the car, the CV joints move at 10x greater angles than would be caused by bad engine/tranny mounts.
when the car is at ride height, the inner CV joints are designed so that the joint will sit in the middle of the sleeve, so it's got almost 2" of travel in and out of the joint. even if the engine was turned 10degrees off-axis in the engine bay, the only thing that will happen is the joints move a bit in relation to the rest of the car.
it's a simple geometry thing.
the engine and transmissions cases are also strong enough to offset any problems with bad mounts. it can't/ won't "stress" the case on the transmission enough to cause any internal clearance issues. if they did that, then you must have actually broken the case on the transmission.
I'm not trying to argue or tell you you're dumb, but whatever caused your tranny to fail was NOT your engine/tranny mounts. There was something else involved.
can dirty drive belt cause engine mount going bad?
Before my max starts to have the symptons of shaking, I did belt replacing at Firestone, and they didn't put back one of the splash guard between the front right wheel and drive belt pulleys. And dirt got into the belt and pulley, caused a lot of noise.
After 1 month, my max start to shake, and with the help of several tycoons here, it is finally diagnosed as bad engine mounts.
My question is , can it be caused by dirty drive belts?
After 1 month, my max start to shake, and with the help of several tycoons here, it is finally diagnosed as bad engine mounts.
My question is , can it be caused by dirty drive belts?
Originally posted by Matt93SE
no, impossible.
broken engine mounts are caused by hard driving, or just overall high miles and wear-and-tear.
they wear out incredibly faster when you drive hard though.
no, impossible.
broken engine mounts are caused by hard driving, or just overall high miles and wear-and-tear.
they wear out incredibly faster when you drive hard though.
Originally posted by Matt93SE
hehehe The same goes for transmissions too, Dan.
I might have a spindle for you soon.. you wanted right or left?
hehehe The same goes for transmissions too, Dan.
I might have a spindle for you soon.. you wanted right or left?
err may not need it...got a alternator plug handy?
Re: can dirty drive belt cause engine mount going bad?
Originally posted by hclll
Before my max starts to have the symptons of shaking, I did belt replacing at Firestone, and they didn't put back one of the splash guard between the front right wheel and drive belt pulleys. And dirt got into the belt and pulley, caused a lot of noise.
After 1 month, my max start to shake, and with the help of several tycoons here, it is finally diagnosed as bad engine mounts.
My question is , can it be caused by dirty drive belts?
Before my max starts to have the symptons of shaking, I did belt replacing at Firestone, and they didn't put back one of the splash guard between the front right wheel and drive belt pulleys. And dirt got into the belt and pulley, caused a lot of noise.
After 1 month, my max start to shake, and with the help of several tycoons here, it is finally diagnosed as bad engine mounts.
My question is , can it be caused by dirty drive belts?
SuDZ
Originally posted by male
I'd say defective CV...Where did you get it/them. A clicking CV is very distinctive noise and there is really nothing else that will click when turning. A wheel bearing will make whirring cyclic noise when going straight and will chnage if you cut the wheel left/right at speed. Remanufactured CV axles are known for defects. I had a Subaru the took three tries at reman. axles before I bought USED, UNKNown milage axles that made No noise and cost 15 bucks each!
I'd say defective CV...Where did you get it/them. A clicking CV is very distinctive noise and there is really nothing else that will click when turning. A wheel bearing will make whirring cyclic noise when going straight and will chnage if you cut the wheel left/right at speed. Remanufactured CV axles are known for defects. I had a Subaru the took three tries at reman. axles before I bought USED, UNKNown milage axles that made No noise and cost 15 bucks each!
Originally posted by male
I'd say defective CV...Where did you get it/them. A clicking CV is very distinctive noise and there is really nothing else that will click when turning. A wheel bearing will make whirring cyclic noise when going straight and will chnage if you cut the wheel left/right at speed. Remanufactured CV axles are known for defects. I had a Subaru the took three tries at reman. axles before I bought USED, UNKNown milage axles that made No noise and cost 15 bucks each!
I'd say defective CV...Where did you get it/them. A clicking CV is very distinctive noise and there is really nothing else that will click when turning. A wheel bearing will make whirring cyclic noise when going straight and will chnage if you cut the wheel left/right at speed. Remanufactured CV axles are known for defects. I had a Subaru the took three tries at reman. axles before I bought USED, UNKNown milage axles that made No noise and cost 15 bucks each!
Re: Engine mounts lasted a week
Originally posted by 1989 4DSC
It seems like it was fine on my car for about a week then I had the same big vibration with a 5 speed starting out. The clutch and pressure plate are not that old. Do these sometime break too soon? Are there competion motor and trany mount or do I have to make my own from ? what?
It seems like it was fine on my car for about a week then I had the same big vibration with a 5 speed starting out. The clutch and pressure plate are not that old. Do these sometime break too soon? Are there competion motor and trany mount or do I have to make my own from ? what?
Originally posted by Sudesh
Matt,
I'm not questioning your knowledge of the Maxima. However, I do feel that worn/broken engine mounts can lead to transmission problems.
Here's why: If an engine mount (or mounts) is (are) broken, they place stress on other things, the engine is uneven and pulls down on the tranny, wearing away the transmission mount. A broken transmission mount leads to the tranny straining, overheating, and consequently dying.
I know this because it happened to me.
Matt,
I'm not questioning your knowledge of the Maxima. However, I do feel that worn/broken engine mounts can lead to transmission problems.
Here's why: If an engine mount (or mounts) is (are) broken, they place stress on other things, the engine is uneven and pulls down on the tranny, wearing away the transmission mount. A broken transmission mount leads to the tranny straining, overheating, and consequently dying.
I know this because it happened to me.
other than that, it will just be a very uncomfortable idle/ride, and switching between P-R-N-D
Originally posted by Matt93SE
broken engine mounts are caused by hard driving, or just overall high miles and wear-and-tear.
they wear out incredibly faster when you drive hard though.
broken engine mounts are caused by hard driving, or just overall high miles and wear-and-tear.
they wear out incredibly faster when you drive hard though.
I've noticed a slight squeak occasionally as I shift into 2nd now. Wasn't there a few months ago. There's actually 4 mounts right? (2 front, 2 rear) Any advice on which ones tend to go first?
I bought my car back in August with both the front tranny mount and engine mount bad. I waited a little bit too long to replace them and eventually the rear engine mount went bad too. What really made the situation even worse was when my crossmember snapped in two. Thats when i replaced the three mounts (and the crossmember too) and the Max felt like a whole different car. I have a VE 5sp and i aslo noticed that my gas mileage went up too. I now have to replace the other rear tranny mount cuz its shot. I'll have fun doing that when i do my clutch next week at work on my day off. Broken mounts aren't that bad at first but can lead to a whole lot of other trouble.
it won't do a durn thing to your engine to have bad mounts, but it WILL cause vibrations- both while stopped and driving.
the other drawback is that the engine sits in the engine bay crooked, and causes more wear on CV joints and stresses your exhaust studs. (with a crooked engine, the back of the exhaust is pulling on the Y pipe, which is connected to the engine through the exhaust studs- a known weak point on our cars)..
so I'd recommend getting it fixed when you can, as exhaust studs are $300/side to replace, and CV joints are about $200/side.
Sooo, there's $1000 in repair right there because you decided to put off a $100 job for too long.
the other drawback is that the engine sits in the engine bay crooked, and causes more wear on CV joints and stresses your exhaust studs. (with a crooked engine, the back of the exhaust is pulling on the Y pipe, which is connected to the engine through the exhaust studs- a known weak point on our cars)..
so I'd recommend getting it fixed when you can, as exhaust studs are $300/side to replace, and CV joints are about $200/side.
Sooo, there's $1000 in repair right there because you decided to put off a $100 job for too long.

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