I have a 1990 Maxima with 190K on the dial. It has not been driven for the past two years. Happened this way. It started with a brake problem which my mechanic could not resolve after several tries, so I let the car stand. Periodically, I would start it and let it idle a while. A year ago during one of these idle sessions, it quit and has not started since. The mechanic insists I need a fuel pump. He is, like me, 60+ and a mechanic all his working life. But I think he has stopped testing and started guessing. Anyway, I’m retired now and getting it to start is something to do. (truth is I miss the car).

New Battery. The engine turns over briskly. I have spark at the plugs. So I go after the fuel pump (because he said so). Could not budge the back seat and thought the Haynes Manual must be incorrect. But after searching the posts here and reading about problems similar to mine, I went to the tool shed got a crow bar and popped it out. After removing the seat, I checked voltage at the pump connector. I get 12v-14v when the engine is being cranked.. There is no voltage with the key in the ON position. I had done the “listen for pump humming” test but my hearing is suspect. So I removed the pump and applied current to it directly from the battery and it promptly emptied its contents on my clothing. I disconnected the fuel line at the rail and (I hope this was ok) I blew compressed air through it from the tank end. I assume that the gasoline spewed over the engine compartment means that the line, fuel filter included, is blockage free. I re-installed the fuel pump and with the rail still disconnected cranked the car for several minutes but no fuel reached that end.

What’s next?

Of course I’ll tell the brake story once I get her started.

 

Hows the relay for the pump along with the fuse?

 

I found a 25 fuse in the panel and replaced it with the prescribed 10. I have no idea about the relay. Where would I find it? And what do I look for when I have it?

 

Fuel pump relay is located in the trunk behind the panel left of the trunk striker. There are two relays, the one on the left is for the fuel pump. You should feel a click when the key is turned on.

 

if you have a ve, you only have one relay. and 2 relays if you have a vg. yes it is in the boot. open the boot, remove ?4? plastic and steel screws by the plastic that covers the striker. you might have to unscrew the brackets to the relay to have easier access to it..

 

a relay looks like a box shaped fuse (but its not a fuse). its' an electromagnetic switch, that's why it should have a click when you turn the key into ON position.

it has 4 prongs. 2 for the switch inside, and 2 for the load.

 

Thank you, thank you. I have a VG. With the key in the ON position will that be ONE (1) click of a continuous clicking? If the former, I'll have to go get the grand son to turn the key while I stand in back to listen for (or feel) the click.*remember I said my hearing is suspect*.

I have not gone out to the car as yet today but I am getting a picture on how things (should) work. You will note that I stated that there was no voltage at the pump connector with the key in the on position. I performed that test based on Haynes saying there should be 12V at the connector for 5 seconds with the key in the ON position. With the seats out, sitting on the floor of the car with the multimeter attached to the connector, I reached behind me and turned the key on. No voltage registered. Now you guys say there should be a click at the relay "with the key turned on". If the relay controls voltage to the pump with the key in the on position but before the car starts, I guess I will find that there is no click when I perform this test. Will let you know.

 

well, the fuel pump has 4 wires going into it, if i remember correctly, then there's a blue connector for it too. you might want to check the connector itself as well.

with the relay, it's just one click. you can actually feel it if you put one finger on top of the relay. like i said, it's an electromagnetic switch. if it doesn't click, it wont close the circuit, meaning no power to the component where it's connected. the relay activates with ignition in ON position and START.

 

idk but if i had the money and had a 90 max i would buy a vq3.5 and swap it in and have a newer engine so itll last longer but thats just me

 

Just uncovered the relays in the trunk. There are two as you say, one orange the other green. The Haynes manual, page 274 diagram 6.2a, says the green one is the pump relay. In my car, a VG, it is on the right, next to the trunk lid opener solenoid.

 

And what good would that do if the fuel cant reach it? SMDH

 

I have already checked the connector and reported on that in my opening post. no voltage there in the ON position. 12-to 14 volts as I crank the car.

I still have to go get my little assistant after school to perform the Click test.

 

i mean like after its all fixed it was just a suggestion its been done b4 plus you would love your car even more

 

Max, I lived in NY. I had two 3rd gens. 93 and 90 at the same time. Got nuff speeding tickets on the NJT. I crashed the 93 at exit six. regret I had to leave it at the tow yard. took the tail lights. still have them. I packed my personal belongings in the 90 and drove from NY to OK when I moved back in 07 and got 25 MPG. all that to say I love the 3rd gen and have not bought another Max because I hated the body changes. I'm happy with my VG3.0. I'm a sentimental old fool.

BTW my search of this forum indicates that as far back as 2002 people were saying that is a fool's swap

now stop cluttering up my thread with irrelevant posts unless you know how to fix the fuel problem.

 

The relay clicked. So we have a pump that pumps when current is applied directly to it, but not when installed. We have a relay that activates when the key is in the on position. are we now looking for a grounding failure?
and how does the ECU figure in this process?

 

look for the wiring diagram. isolate te problem by elimination. did you check the connector . just follow the harness from the pump and test it. It's better to test for voltage. to make sure theere is enough power in the circuit.

 

If its not the connector I suspect the pump itself even though straight to the battery it shot fuel all over you it won't respond correctly in its environment. Either that or a ground. Continue on working from the pump back towards the engine. You'll figure it out soon enough.

 

She is purring contentedly. Don't ask me what the problem was. I don't know. You take everything apart and reassemble them and presto! The break thru seems to have come after I simply too apart and reconnected the relay.

Now on to the brake. As luck would have it a huge leak is evident in a line mid car. But I am positive that that is not the original problem. Well I;ll see about the broken line and take it from there.

 

My options are replace the entire line with all the bending and flaring involved. Or, connecting the line on either side of the leak with a union.

Opinions? pros and cons?

Does anyone know the diameter of the brake line "off the top of your head"?

 

I would just replace it.

 

Maxima.org is invaluable. So to replace it I need parts, right? Look what I found in a 2007 Thread.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasit...611_1706_1711&

Ordered my parts today. Will also replace the fuel lines as there is a considerable amount of rust on all lines in the area.