Paxton

I have a 91 SE 5 speed.

I have been having intermittent clutch problems for months and I'm about ready to take it to a dealer and say fix it! I don't want to do that though since I know the fix is probably simple.
To make a long story short:
Was in cold weather and clutch was leaking fluid and sticking to the floor. I rebuilt clutch master cylinder, didn't fix it. I rebuilt the slave cylinder, seemed to fix it.
Pedal travel and clutch engagement has been erratic though.
Then one day, the clutch pedal went to the floor and the clutch started making noise, it turned out to be a broken tab on the throw-out bearing.
I had a new clutch disc and throw-out bearing put in.
Clutch pedal is still erratic. It will work at the top, then bottom of pedal travel.
Has been consistent for a few weeks, until tonight. Clutch started engaging closer and closer to the floor as I was driving home, I barely made it. I don't see any fluid leaking...could it be air in the lines? Do I have another bleeding point other than the slave cylinder? Would that help?
Thanks

Paxton

Sorry for that long message. I just went back out to look at it again and pulled the slave cylinder boot back and fluid poured out. I guess that means my slave cylinder is leaking again! I have rebuilt it twice in about one year! Maybe I should by a whole new assembly? Has anyone else had problems with the rebuild kits?

Also, I am not looking forward to bleeding the clutch again. Does it take everyone 30-45 minutes? Is there another bleeding point I should use besides the slave cylinder?

Dave S

Not sure about '91, but on '93 there's a second bleed point located on the driver's side strut tower. Can't remember which one you do first, but it's been posted before. Do a search and it'll turn up.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

If you rebuilt your slave cyl once and it still leaked, then you need to replace it..

the biggest problem is that you need to hone the inside of the cylinder walls when you do a rebuild.... but those slave cyls are so small that you can't get a hone in there. Soooo, I'd say you need to buy a new slave cylinder and try that..

and yes, there's another bleeder valve closer to the master cylinder. follow the tubing from either master or slave cylinder, and you'll find it.

Paxton

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Matt93SE

Thanks for the post! I have been working on it all night. I bought a new slave cyl today (like you suggested) and put it on. I bleed the system (slave first) and found and used the other bleeder by the strut. At first it did not work well at all, I was losing pressure. I think I put the copper washer on the line bolt on the wrong side. It looks to me like the bolt has copper on it to seal one side of the clutch line and the copper washer seals between the line and the slave cyl. Right? That is the way I put it back together (the second time). It tighten the ***t out of it to.

It still seems to be leaking very slightly where the clutch line attaches to the slave cyl. I am afraid to try and tighten the bolt anymore, but it is still leaking. Any ideas?

sxwk12

When you say you saw "fluid leaking" could it have been oil? I just had my whole clutch replaced, clutch, master cylinder, throw out bearing, and slave cylinder. I had the same problem, one day I push all the way to the floor, next day, didn't have to push far at all. The problem was the main seal. It was leaking. Leaked into the clutch and messed it up. After getting it out of the shop, I still had a problem with it slipping. Took it back to the shop and they had to adjust the clutch rod.

Sidney
94 Maxima SE

blackandwhite

iTrader: (3)

The cost of a new slave cylinder is only about $10 more than the kit. I replaced both, and like you stil have pedal problems, but I think it could be the return spring (for the pedal).

Paxton

No, it's not oil. I am sure it is clutch fluid. I can wipe the slave clean, drive it and then wipe a small trail of fluid from the slave cyl. I am sure it is leaking at the bolt coneection between the line and the slave, becasue I tightened the bolt a little more and it leaked a little less. I hope I never have to take that bolt out again!!!

Paxton

After tightening the ***t out of the line bolt on the slave, it is barly leaking at all. I bleed the top bleeder, and that helped my pedal return. The pedal feels good to me......for now. Have you bleed both points?

Martin

Having been in the brake line manufacturing business I suggest you replace the line into the slave cylinder. The problem sounds like the flare on the end is pooched and won't seal properly. You can splice a new short piece in. Purchase a short piece of 3/16" brakeline with the flare preformed. Cut the new and original line with a tube cutter and join the 2 using a splice fitting that uses ferrules to seal (rather than a formed flare).

good luck

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

The psrticular fitting that he's talking about it a banjo bolt type fitting I believe.. that's the only thing that would have the copper washers on it.

in that case, did you replace the copper washers or re-use the old ones? they should be replaced, but I've actually never had a problem re-using the old ones on my regular brake applications.. also, if the face of the seal on the slave cyl is scored for some reason, that will cause it to leak. make sure it's perfectly smooth, and use a very fine file to clean any scratches off if you have to.

Sounds like you've pretty much go tthe problem worked out already though. now if you want to find my power steering fluid leak, I'll be VERY grateful! I've already replaced all the hoses (high and low pressure), but the pump still makes the whining noise like there's air in the lines.. don't know if it's still leaking or not though.
and of course a new one is about $20349875 from nissan, and the local parts stores don't carry them. hellloooo salvage!

Rancid90SE

word to the wise,if this ever happens,clutch pressure starts getting weaker and weaker and gears become harder to get into...stop the car and call a tow truck...i had 2 bad experiences..when my slave went,and then when my hose went..so now i have a 2nd gear crunch/grind at high rpms...from tryin to shift a clutch with no pressure... which im hoping redline synthetic will help with..oh and i got my slave for $21 remanufactured and a brand new OEM hose for like $110 installed...so dont bother rebuilding yourself..and takes a lot less time bleading a clutch with 2 guys,like 5-10 min