[If you want to know why this thread is called: "Stop Stop Stop!", please review my posts in the 3rd Gen Newbie thread.]

I am going to use this thread to share with the ORG my progress in bringing my 1990 Nissan Maxima SE back from the dead. AND to create a chain of events that others can follow that may be on the same road as I am. I have big plans for this car... let's see how long it takes to get there.

This project is going to be a lot of work, and I already have received some excellent advice and replies from people on this forum... again: Thank You!
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To start, I have identified the 'house' plugs as a cold weather starting kit. Further investigation lead me to the plug where an extension cord plugs in. I kind of figured this was what was going on. Living in Texas for the past five years, I had not seen a cold weather kit for a very long time... took a little while to re-activate those neurons.

The leads branch off and attach to different parts in the engine compartment.

- to a pad under the battery
- to a pad that is attached to the bottom of the oil pan with silicon
- to the starter
- to the alternator

There are only three plugs but, the wires have been cut and spliced to other parts in the engine compartment as well.

I have not decided to remove them or not. That is not a my main concern at the moment.

 

approves of this thread.

This is why the name:

 

The oil pan job is going to be a huge undertaking. If I have to rebuild the engine (if it rebuildable) then I will just wait until then to do the oil pan(s)... yes, it looks like there are two oil pans on 3rd Gen 1990 Maxima SE models.

(I don't have all the details on this, but as I discover them, I will update, as there does not seem to be a lot of detailed information on the internet about this process. Nor do any manuals do a great job of explaining this either.)

- Remove cross support bar
- Remove the transmission mounts
- Remove the exhaust mounts to the engine
- Remove the stabilizer bar to be able to remove the exhaust pipe

? - Does the engine need to be hooked to a picker? and lifted?
? - Does the transmission need to be blocked/supported after the mounts are removed?
? - Does the exhaust pipe mounts have gasket kits?
? - Is the stabilizer bar under any kind of torque?
? - Am I missing anything?

- I purchased the gasket seals for both sides of the oil pan and the silicon gel that goes between the pans. Purchased from AutoZone for $12.
- I also have the oil and a new oil filter for when the job is complete.

The biggest part of this is being safe, organized, and very careful with the silicon gel when applying it so that no 'squeeze' crud gets into the oil pan. This is definitely a job you want to do right the first time.

 

Going back to the other thread, me being a glass is half full kind of guy, I'm not ready to rule in favor of a blown hg... I think maybe the car was run with just water for a long time, without enough antifreeze to stop It from corroding. I sort of think fix your oil leak and flush your radiator and it might be fine,

 

Maxima278, That is what I am hoping too. I could not determine if there was oil in the radiator fluid well or in the radiator... I suctioned fluid out of both and did the 'water' test (To see if any oil bubbles float in the jar of water). It looks like rusty old water.

Which would be right on with your observations.

What is your opinion on Blue Devil Head Gasket Sealer?
Any experience with removing the oil pan?

Thanks Again,

Cheers,

IP

 

No experience with that yet, but my crank seal leaks pretty bad on my 92 SE with the ve30de, really hoping not to have to remove my oil pan, but there's a chance I could be right there with you.

 

If yours is an automatic, the 2nd oil pan you speak of is likely the transmission filter access. ~ oil on passenger side under oil filter & trans on DS.

I'm a 4th gen owner, but not a lot changes on these cars overall.

Here is a good read: http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...il-change.html

Edit: and people usually just use RTV for the oil pan gasket iirc.

 

I've never seen or heard of a cold weather kit on our 3rd gens but make sure to take pics of your process. I would put the car on jack stands or ramps. If you can remove your y-pipe without removing your axle that would save you some time. Then try using an engine hoist to support engine from up top and remove the crossmember. Then you have plenty of room to remove the oil pan. Lucky for me I already did all this while my engine and tranny was out. Keep us posted on your progress.

 

3rd gens dont have 2 oil pans only car ive seen in person with 2 oil pans was a Porsche 911 i worked on once. the other oil pan youre seeing is for the auto transmission

oil and coolant dont mix, oil floats above coolant. if theres oil in the coolant, there will be a white milkshake sludge under your oil cap and the reservoir will have oil floating in it. if its all just murky, it sounds like just old coolant that needs to be changed

if your HG is indeed blown (could be but i doubt it really) dont use those sealer things, only way to fix it is actually replace the gaskets. another way to tell if the HG is blown is to rev it to 4 grand (yes 4, not floor it ) and leave the rad cap off. if bubbles keep coming up, the HG is blown and combustion gas is coming in. what happens is when the cap is on, the gas creates pressure in the rad so the relief valve on the cap opens because of the extra pressure. the coolant overflow will then flood with coolant, thats whats up with my Crown right now. the headgasket i think is just starting to go, when i go faster than 150kmh the overflow floods and pours coolant errywhere and the rad gets low on coolant

at least since ive been on here, i think ive heard of like 2-3 people blowing VG30E headgaskets and they probably severely overheated the engine. VG30E headgaskets dont go that often