GRNMAXDMON

iTrader: (1)

So, I finally installed a reman starter motor yesterday to start it up. Once it started I let idle but since the car has been sitting for over a year I thought the brake pads might have seized so I had my dad push it forward while in gear and the clutch was slipping big time. Just about a month ago I replaced my Clutch Master Cylinder due to the old one leaking inside the car. But now I can't for the life of me remember if I adjusted the shaft that goes onto to the pedal? But once I put it into 1st gear it barely moves. Then I pumped the pedal and then it got a bit difficult to pump and I felt the clutch slave go out! The seal inside the clutch slave just bit the dust. The clutch I installed back in Nov. 2011 if I recall, then the car drove fine and then last year is when I stripped the car down for body and paint. Now that I have been putting her back together the clutch starts to act up. I replaced it with an Exedy OEM clutch, not sure if its considered a Stage I or not but its the second time I use this clutch kit. So what do you guys think? Clutch pedal adjustment or something else?

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

You said the slave cylinder went out, right? Did you replace it and you're still having engagement issues? I'm a bit confused what exactly your symptoms are at this point. Of course I'm also tired so my reading comprehension probably isn't so good.

GRNMAXDMON

iTrader: (1)

The clutch master is what I replaced and it had pressure but once I was ready to move the car for the first time in over a year it barely moved like if the brakes were seized but they weren't. I kept pumping the pedal until I lost pressure and that's when I realized that the slave cylinder took a dump. My question is why did the car barely move? Was it cuz of the new clutch master not adjusted due to too much pedal travel or is my clutch actually bad which is hard to believe since I drove the car less than 10k miles after clutch replacement and started to strip her down for body and paint. I bought the clutch master at NAPA.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Well, the fact that your slave cylinder took a dump probably means it was on its way out prior to that, no? Have you replaced the slave cylinder? I would do that first. IIRC there's no real adjustment per se with the pedal assembly itself. All you can do is adjust that stopper to limit or extend the travel a tad bit. Beyond that, all you need to do is adjust the threaded rod on the master cylinder to ensure full range of motion. But again you won't really know anything until you fix/verify slave cylinder operation

GRNMAXDMON

iTrader: (1)

Well I've been thinking about this all day and thought that maybe the new master cylinder threaded rod is shorter VS. the original one I had installed might have been longer allowing for more of an adjustment to be made. So I think that with the new master installed it'll let me put the car in gear but once I let off the pedal I think it does not release all the way or let the pedal come back up all the way, and possibly the slave might have been going on its way out like you stated earlier. So, if you step on the pedal it pushes the fork onto the pressure plate with no problem but once released the fork moves away from the pressure plate and I think that's what it's not doing once let off the pedal. It's like only 80% of the pedal comes back up instead of the full 100%. Either way I went ahead and ordered a new slave cylinder from Nissan.

marke

iTrader: (7)

When I did my 5 speed swap a few years ago I put in a new mc and it was like you said about the rod being shorter than the original one. I adjusted it all the way to the end but my clutch would engage barely off the floor. It eventually failed internally after I replaced the slave cylinder and the rubber line with a braided steel one. When I replaced it a couple months ago with another new one the rod was slightly longer and the clutch engages more in the middle. So I guess aftermarket clutch master cylinders are hit and miss.
After you replace ur slave cylinder u should probably check that rod to see if its adjusted right.

GRNMAXDMON

iTrader: (1)

Well, hopefully this weekend I can try and fix it. I already placed an order for a new slave cylinder from Nissan and I will remove the Master Cylinder and compare with my old which I still have. I am certain that is the issue at hand. Will update my findings when I figure it out.

GRNMAXDMON

iTrader: (1)

Well, i managed to work on it today before the rain got me. I installed the new slave cylinder i ordered from Nissan today and then i decided to remove the new MC and compare with the old one that was leaking. I found that the new MC rod was longer and barely any threads for adjustment and the old one was shorter but had more threads for adjustment. I went ahead and disassembled both MC's and swapped the rods and reinstalled. Bled the hydraulic lines and now my clutch engages and I was able to finally move the car for the first time in over a year.