Ok, so the deal is I am trying to remove this bolt that's holding the belt tensioner. For some reason it appears to be locked up. Any idea on what I can do ?

the space is very limited for any tool.. cannot drill it and lube does not work .

 

Did you try aerokroil?

 

see if you can heat it...and no, a heat gun or hair dryer won't cut it. see if you can aim a torch on there.

once it's nice and warmed up (hot) tap/hammer the bolt remover and slowly turn it. get some ez out ready and a good drill since you might have to drill it out once you rip the head of the bolt off.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-10-pc...p-00952166000P

 

there is no space to put a drill ..! But I like that socket set you got there....

 

obviously your array of tools are lacking

they do make a right angle drill for these tight places.
with that attitude i'm going to stop giving you help/suggestions. next time check your attitude at the door..we're (i'm) here to provide assistance not get bs from new users (yes 10 posts = new user).

i know there's limited space...but you can also jack up/lift up the motor or lower the motor to clear the frame...but you can figure that out on your own.

thanks and have a great holiday.
Dan

 

Sorry, I'm just a Sunday mechanic. ..

 

Hum.. very touchy I see ..

 

not touchy...you NEED help...I don't. you don't get to give people attitude when suggestions are being offered.

maybe the best solution for you is to bring it to someone with a larger array of tools to solve this problem. breaking the head of the bolt will just add more time and frustration. a shop usually have the proper tool(s) to get these stubborn bolts out. if the head does break off they WILL drill it out..no other way around it.

 

Were you insinuating that I am incompetent? That was the reason for my response. .. no arms done.. I apologize.. but should? So far iam buying my tools as I need them.. I did torch it, sprayed, hammered it, and so on.. I DON'T want to break it. So I'm gonna try those sockets you said, after sprying aerokroil.. what else?

Thank you Dan.

 

If aerokroil won't get it I would try heating with mapp gas or acetylene torch.

 

who's touchy now?

no...these are steel bolts that are in aluminum block. nissan bolts tends to break when aged...ask any VG owner and they can tell about about the exhaust manifold studs.

you read too much into it...at no point was i trying to even remotely hint that you were incompetent. i was just pointing out that it's possible that it can break since the head of the bolt seems to have gone through some stress and what option you have after it's broken off. i hope it doesn't break and it'll come out with the tool.

 

used kroil in the past...it's "ok"...not magic in a can. strong odor with kroil too.

if it's this stuck a little heat will probably be the only thing that would help...or if lack of torque is the problem (rounded bolt head) then the socket i linked to might provide more leverage.

 

Aerokroil beats pb blaster hands down.

 

did you try to remove the bolt RIGHT after you torched it? have to do it while the bolt is warm

otherwise, you can get those rounded bolt extractor sockets, might be worth trying one of those after torching the bolt

and yes, as said you can get 90 degree air drills for tight spaces

 

Lay a few ply's worth of tissue across the socket and push it onto the stripped head to get a better grab on it. Trust me, it works.

Make sure the socket itself is not stripped, and the correct size of course.

 

I just bought a map torch from Lowes. So first thing in the morning, its heating time..! How long should I keep the torch on the bolt ? Is there any risk on applying hot fire on the outside engine case ...?

 

ive torched many many many bolts around the engine, as long as you just heat the bolt itself and stray away from fuel lines etc you should be okay. you dont want to cut the bolt, just get it red hot

 

Orange/red hot on just bolt/metal area.

If mapp won't get it, then you need the hotter quicker acetylene.

 

Take your time though.

No worries.

 

Ok. First thing on the morning. Then I will go to the other stores get a refund for all the other tools and lubricants I purchased...

 

I'm telling you, I'd have had it out hours ago with nothing but a paper towel and socket wrench.

 

First of all, why are you trying to remove the bolt on that bracket? Are you trying to remove the entire bracket that contains the tensioner pulley?

And why are you using vice grips? I see no reason a proper sized 5 point socket won't take it right off. Your bolt doesn't look stuck at all and I don't believe a torch will provide you any benefit. I wouldn't torch it or drill it or do anything like that as that all seems pointless. I suspect you are simply trying to unnecessarily remove the wrong part, using an improper tool, for what you're wanting to accomplish.

What exactly are you trying to do by removing that bolt?

 

theres been many times at work where ive been working on old piece of crap cars with rounded off bolts, if you round it off bad enough a socket will do nothing. ive always had to torch the bolt and wiggle it back and forth with vise grips to get it out

make sure this bolt does have to come out though

 

Yes. Engine front > cylinder head > side cover > behind the belt pulley > the top left bolt. I need it off in order to remove the cylinder head. Every other bolt is good.

 

It is the idler pulley, the top left bolt is attached to the side cylinder head cover

 

And again, you haven't tried a properly sized socket? The bolt does not look rounded over to me so bad that a 5 point socket won't take it right off. And Hectic's idea is a good idea too in case it is a bit round.

I believe even your vice grips would take it right off if you crank it down really tight. You don't appear to be clamping it all that hard which contributes to rounding the bolt, along with the bracket preventing full range of motion.

 

Since it's stripped already turn it with a long chisel and hammer!