I think I have a bad driver side axle. It drive good, no lost in power but I check it out with both front tires in the air ,on first gear and the driver side axle sound like a bad wheel bearing. But the sound is on the inner part of the axle that attaches to the tranny not the outer side. Could it be the breeding went bad on the axle

 

I found a automatic ve would that axle work on my ve manual? My abs doesn't work, so can I get a *** abs axle?

Driver side

 

Spline difference is between VG and VE, opposed to auto and manual. Just make sure to get a VE axle. If the noise is coming from the output, you might be able to get away with pulling the axle, greasing it and reseating it. If the boots are torn, just go ahead and replace it.

Hopefully it's not the clutch or trans itself.

 

It's shift fine, boots are in good shape. Clutch is 6 months old. I'm going to pull axle n move boot to take a good look at inner bearing

 

transfer the ABS wheel from one to the other! Gently tap it off the original with a hammer and punch, tapping it @ 180* apart til it slides off! Then tap it on to the new axle!

 

Would it work without the abs. Cuz that sensor isn't even connected. Our was cut by previous owner

 

I have a dead cv on passenger side in theory if I order the "cheaper" non abs axle can I use above method to transplant the sensor to the new axle?

Just to know I'm planning on buying with abs cause I'm lazy but if I blow one again it would be nice to know.

 

Yup. all the axle housings are the same- at least all the ones I've seen. They're just missing the reluctor ring on the non-ABS versions.

 

Shibby.

 

If u remove boot you'll need new clamp, the clamps should not be reused.

 

I do believe Rock Auto has a Cardonne Select new not REM. on wholesaler closeout for around $38 and change.
They also have some KYB front struts 235051&02 for 32.00 each wholesaler closeout. plus shipping.
They also have an assortment of mounts for the struts. Might as well change them at the same time for those prices --- I am