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Old 04-14-2008, 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Chaoz
... timing belt. i believe that i did everything rite but, ...
Go back and think what u did. If u have not touched any injector related, then there is no reason to be any change - it is as it was before belt operation... (Ignition wirings can easily be shaken during that job)

If u touched only timing belt, possibly one cam is one tooth off - I've been there Would fit the power loss. No way but return to the job and ensure...

If batt has been out more than 30 minutes, ECU injection memory tables have been cleared (some effect on idle) and needs 'time' to gather data and rebuild the table. This would add to the 'crap idle.'
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Old 04-14-2008, 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Chaoz
hey i have just replace my water pump and timing belt. i believe that i did everything rite but, now my car is running like crap. i have no low end torque at all. the car still runs and drives but, i don't have any power any more. when i hold the gas a 2500 i can hear a nasty miss and one of my injectors are not firing so i think that is my power robber. can anyone please help me i dont know anything bout this car.. thanks
Yep, sounds like you have one cam a tooth off (timing retarded). If so your gas mileage will also be crap and you'll be shedding excessive heat into your cat.
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Old 04-14-2008, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by iciqueen
...if i cam taking it to the Nissan dealer ...
If u have to go there, take only their advice

The stealership parts and job quadruples your car price. Its cheaper to push this into junkyard, then go and buy another one (or swap engine if u find good spare and a place to do it)
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Old 04-14-2008, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Chaoz
hey i have just replace my water pump and timing belt. i believe that i did everything rite but, now my car is running like crap. i have no low end torque at all. the car still runs and drives but, i don't have any power any more. when i hold the gas a 2500 i can hear a nasty miss and one of my injectors are not firing so i think that is my power robber. can anyone please help me i dont know anything bout this car.. thanks
are you sure that you putht e right dots in the right places on the belt/sprockets? the spacing between them is unequal so even if all appear lined up they might not be. verify #1 TDC on all 3 sprockets.

but if you know you have a bad injector then i'd say that's probably your problem, but i'd still verify timing again just to be certain.
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Old 04-17-2008, 03:15 PM
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Timing belt issues

I have been driving this car for about 2 months now and have been recouping her from the previous owner. She had the car for over a year and did NO maintenance to it. The car died right in the driveway at idle about two seconds after start and i checked the rotor button......there is no movement on cranking the motor. It is my 93 gxe and i love the car, but what are my chances that the motor will survive, since it is an interferance motor? The local shop wants $400 give or take to fix it and we just spent 960 to buy it. Any suggestions? Any? Please reply to this thread or message me personally.........Im torn cause i love this car..........even tho she has 260k.

Maxima enthusiast in Distress
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Old 04-17-2008, 06:56 PM
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you need a new motor.
once the belt breaks, and you have tried to crank it, the valves have sustained damage. the extent of the damage is questionable though.
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Old 04-17-2008, 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by j_dragon78
...The local shop wants $400 give or take to fix it ...
Maxima enthusiast in Distress
Be careful with that shop. That is just (?) inspection down payment...

No proof of evolution here: what man does, starts to deteriorate immediately... but the distress belongs to the packg called life. Feel for yall no maintenance -ppl and their fellas..

Edit: Here again THE poof how 'bad the timing' belts are. They last only four times more than promised...

Last edited by Wiking; 04-17-2008 at 11:14 PM.
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Old 04-18-2008, 02:30 AM
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recently i went to pick up my friend and we stop by his freind\mechanics
shop and waht do i see?why its a gxe with the cylinder heads off because the timimg belt broke and i found it intresting when he showed me a new valve
compared to one that did hit a piston but at first glance would look ok
since it was not broken or "chipped" but compared to the new one it was clearly bent so it will not "seat"well and if its an intake valve this will lose compression right?
i bring this up because i read about people who have the t-belt snap but
say no valves broke and may just put a new belt on without checking valve seating
and straightness
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Old 04-18-2008, 04:12 AM
  #49  
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for all those worried about the vg timing belt replace it every 60k if u think yours is breaking youl start to hear a low whining sound when the car is in idle its sounds like theirs dust in the brakes so alot of mechanics will look at the other belts not the timing belt say "the belts" are fine and it must be the brakes
im pretty sure brakes dont whine while in park
get it fixed
 
Old 04-18-2008, 04:29 AM
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Originally Posted by maximagician
...will not "seat"well and if its an intake valve this will lose compression right?...
Any nonseating valve means lost compression ... how much - depends. Exhaust side will eventually melt by hot exhaust flow. Miracles do happen, at least I remember "one claim" here concerning broken belt. Most ppl wait for miracles and also receive... (= 4x more lifetime than promised) - but then comes the payday.

Whine: round teeth belt on squared sprockets can be noisy. Nissan service is superbly lost into this error which may destroy engine (both types are used, should not be mixed). Check out by prying top of cover.
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Old 04-22-2008, 10:41 AM
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Alright guys.....Im confused now.......I pried the timing belt cover top out and looked down in to see the belt looks intact as far as I can see. I am really confused now. Bumped the ignition and there is no movement of the pulleys up top.......Any suggestions? I am so lost at this point......All I can keep thinkin is that the damn Crank broke, but that would take a lot........HELP!
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Old 04-22-2008, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by j_dragon78
...Crank broke, but that would take a lot........HELP!
If crank broken, then no confusion, just swap engine.
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Old 04-22-2008, 11:36 AM
  #53  
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Did you try poking at the belt? Maybe your looking at the non torn part. See if it's loose.

Originally Posted by j_dragon78
Alright guys.....Im confused now.......I pried the timing belt cover top out and looked down in to see the belt looks intact as far as I can see. I am really confused now. Bumped the ignition and there is no movement of the pulleys up top.......Any suggestions? I am so lost at this point......All I can keep thinkin is that the damn Crank broke, but that would take a lot........HELP!
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Old 04-22-2008, 06:19 PM
  #54  
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Agreed. When my timing belt failed, it was really more about the tensioner had failed. The guy who built my engine installed the tesnion pulley wrong and it let go. This meant that the belt stayed in place, but was slipping on the crank sprocket. So, either a broken crank (check and see if crank/accessories turn when you try to start) or your T-belt is slipping on the crank sprocket.

FYI, mine is a built engine and simply replacing it was not an option. It cost me almost $800 to repair all damage. The only labor was paying someone to install new valves, seals, and valve springs which is included in the aforementioned price. I did 100% of everything else, including pulling the engine and parts and taking them to the shop, then re-installing all myself. I also just replaced a VG engine for a friend. Total cost for him, engine, my labor, and all supplies (water pump, timing belt, fluids, etc) was under $800.
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Old 04-22-2008, 06:29 PM
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damn under $800...boy your a true friend.
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Old 10-28-2011, 06:11 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by Mike90SE
There have been numerous occasions where the snout of the crankshaft breaks due to the pulley belts being too tight. I, for one, can attest to this as it was the demise of my VG. I too thought the timing belt had went south only to find out the snout of the crankshaft had broken. Long story short, replace the engine. It is toast.
HOw do you know if the crankshaft is broken? Will it fall off into peices? MY car wont start and it jus died, My rotor does not turn either,
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Old 10-30-2011, 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by maxinout93
HOw do you know if the crankshaft is broken? Will it fall off into pieces? MY car wont start and it jus died, My rotor does not turn either,
VG's are plentiful and cheap, go grab one...I'm putting one together for my RWD as we speak.


.
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Old 10-31-2011, 11:53 AM
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wow i guess u are right, i wont b able to see the extent of my damage until friday when i tow mine to the shop. Im hoping i can save it.
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Old 01-22-2012, 06:30 PM
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Need help!!

Ok guys heres the deal,

I got an 89 max and i'm changing out the timing belt. Everything was going fine. I was up late and went to bed. Next morning came out and like an idiot i went to spin the crank and there was no timing belt installed. I tried to move it back to where it was but i really had no idea. Is there anyway to "re-align" the timing gears? Or am i SOL? Nothing is really lining up any more as far as the timing marks. any ideas??
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Old 01-22-2012, 11:07 PM
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You can try to realign it but the damage is done!
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Old 01-22-2012, 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by ajan246
Ok guys heres the deal,

I got an 89 max and i'm changing out the timing belt. Everything was going fine. I was up late and went to bed. Next morning came out and like an idiot i went to spin the crank and there was no timing belt installed. I tried to move it back to where it was but i really had no idea. Is there anyway to "re-align" the timing gears? Or am i SOL? Nothing is really lining up any more as far as the timing marks. any ideas??
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/1994/em.pdf

Page 12 shows you the timing marks that will help you re-align the timing. It also helps on installing the timing belt.
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Old 01-22-2012, 11:18 PM
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I'll be swapping out the square tooth design for the better round tooth design....and buying a Nissan Oem 93-94 round tooth belt which is stronger since my VG eat off about 4" of teeth while accelerating briefly and at part throttle....I'll check my valve- trian for any binding, but I'm sure it was the NAPA belt that failed prematurely! My engine's low end torque is strong as hell and I'm sure it's pulling harder than most 4th gens....
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Old 01-23-2012, 04:30 AM
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Originally Posted by ajan246
Ok guys heres the deal,

I got an 89 max and i'm changing out the timing belt. Everything was going fine. I was up late and went to bed. Next morning came out and like an idiot i went to spin the crank and there was no timing belt installed. I tried to move it back to where it was but i really had no idea. Is there anyway to "re-align" the timing gears? Or am i SOL? Nothing is really lining up any more as far as the timing marks. any ideas??
not sure if moving it by hand can bend metal
you might need to spin the cams somehow when the crank stops moving
cause if the valve is in wrong position it might not let the piston go all the way up before it can go back down when turning the crank seperatley without the belt keeping the cams moving and valves out the way
hope it helps
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Old 01-23-2012, 11:24 AM
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I was able to get my timing marks lined up properly again. Cam and crank. However I am VERY unclear about the proper procedure for reaching TDC for the #1 cylinder. What I did was turn the crank until the orange/yellow mark on the crank pulley was lined up with the timing indicator on the lower timing belt cover. Then removed the distr. cap and verified that the rotor was pointing at the #1 wire terminal under the cap to check that it is on the compression not exhaust stroke. Is that the proper way to set TDC at #1 cylinder?

Also my other question was about the wording in the FSM. If you look at the FSM for removal of the timing belt. It says: set #1 cylinder to TDC on it's compression stroke. then it says "align timing punchmarks on cam sprocket and align punchmark on crank sprocket. temporarily install crank pulley bolt on crankshaft so that crankshaft can be rotated"
What's confusing me is this: Should the cam/crank timing marks line up when the #1 cylinder is at TDC? Or do you get it to TDC THEN rotate to align the marks.

This whole process went smooth as silk until I got to this point. Let me know if you have any tips/suggestions.
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Old 01-23-2012, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by ajan246
I was able to get my timing marks lined up properly again. Cam and crank. However I am VERY unclear about the proper procedure for reaching TDC for the #1 cylinder. What I did was turn the crank until the orange/yellow mark on the crank pulley was lined up with the timing indicator on the lower timing belt cover. Then removed the distr. cap and verified that the rotor was pointing at the #1 wire terminal under the cap to check that it is on the compression not exhaust stroke. Is that the proper way to set TDC at #1 cylinder?

Also my other question was about the wording in the FSM. If you look at the FSM for removal of the timing belt. It says: set #1 cylinder to TDC on it's compression stroke. then it says "align timing punchmarks on cam sprocket and align punchmark on crank sprocket. temporarily install crank pulley bolt on crankshaft so that crankshaft can be rotated"
What's confusing me is this: Should the cam/crank timing marks line up when the #1 cylinder is at TDC? Or do you get it to TDC THEN rotate to align the marks.

This whole process went smooth as silk until I got to this point. Let me know if you have any tips/suggestions.
as long as all three marks are lined up and the t-belt goes with the marks, you'll be good there.
just pray there's no bent valves.
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Old 01-23-2012, 07:31 PM
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WOOOO-EEEEE... prayed for a miracle and I recieved one!! Got the timing marks lined up, timing belt on the marks, fired it up and she is purring like a kitten!! About an hour of pure nervousness!! But hey!! It all worked out! Again thanks to the amazing crew at maxima.org! Thanks guys!!
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Old 01-24-2012, 08:35 AM
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I'll see if mine is as blessed/lucky since I have an extra New Timing belt laying in my small inventory of parts......Mine was running when it ate about 4"-5" of timing belt cogs....I'll try this b4 I decide to remove the heads again....
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Old 01-24-2012, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by CMax03
I'll see if mine is as blessed/lucky since I have an extra New Timing belt laying in my small inventory of parts......Mine was running when it ate about 4"-5" of timing belt cogs....I'll try this b4 I decide to remove the heads again....
Good luck bro! Keep us posted!
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Old 01-26-2012, 06:50 AM
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whirring noise

what's going on guys,

I should say before anything that during my t-belt change i also replaced thermostat and water pump. I got everything back together and i'm getting a strange whirring or whinning sound. Here it is.. let me know what you guys think. I don't know if it's serious... but it's driving me crazy.

http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=oqdbip&s=5
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Old 02-01-2012, 07:01 AM
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bumpp ^^
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Old 02-01-2012, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by ajan246
what's going on guys,

I should say before anything that during my t-belt change i also replaced thermostat and water pump. I got everything back together and i'm getting a strange whirring or whinning sound. Here it is.. let me know what you guys think. I don't know if it's serious... but it's driving me crazy.

http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=oqdbip&s=5
T-belt's too tight!
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Old 02-02-2012, 03:18 AM
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run it for a minute without any drivebelts to rule out the other pulleys
but dont go driving around tho....
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