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UDP install...again...

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Old Jan 22, 2002 | 02:50 PM
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UDP install...again...

alright, my day off from work is coming up soon (saturday) and if i'm going to tackle the UDP install on my own (with a few friends to help) i need to know exactly what tools i'd need. what size sockets? i can hopefully get an impact wrench, but i need to know the nut size for the crank pulley itself.
also let me get this straight (and put very simply) to replace the crank oil seal (the one behind the pulley) i'll need to:
remove passengers side wheel
remove splashguard????
remove belts
remove crank pulley
fish old seal out with screwdriver
press new seal in
reinstall pulley (UDP)
reinstall belts (new, UDP sized)
reinstall splashguard?????
put wheel back on, take for a ride and grin at new found power..??

will i need a pulley puller?

TIA
Old Jan 22, 2002 | 03:03 PM
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Re: UDP install...again...

I don't remember what the nut size was for the crank pulley. I just remember it was pretty big. Like 24mm

But, those steps that you listed are correct. I followed the steps for removing all the belts in my Chilton's manual. Removing the belts in the correct order is a good idea.

Also, when you push the new oil seal back in...make sure you DO NOT damage it in any way or you will still have a leak. Since, it's not under pressure...all you do is remove the oil seal and push the new one in. Oil won't squirt every where b/c the seal is not at the very bottom on the engine.

Try to torque down the pulley nut pretty good. I believe it's 165 ft-lbs. I didn't use a torque wrench. I just tightened it with an impact wrench until it was tight. CCW to loosen.... CW to tighten. Just like a regular nut. Some pulleys are different.

As for the pulley puller, I would seriously recommend having one close by. I went to Pep Boys and got their loaner puller and they refunded my $58 when I returned the puller. I had to use the puller. Other's say that the pulley practically fell off in their hands. Just have one, just in case.

I can't think of anything else except to have fun when you launch out of the hole faster. Don't miss a shift or you will bump the rev limiter in a split second.
Old Jan 22, 2002 | 03:10 PM
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does anyone know the nut size? my plan is to buy the socket and return it when i'm done and i dont want to buy a whole bunch and return them all..thats just real shady and it might not work..anyway, i recall someone saying it was 22mm...aaron says its big, like 24mm..my best guess would be 23mm....i just need to know for sure, sorry for being a pain in the @$$.
thanks aaron, i do have a haynes so i'll be using that as a guide.
Old Jan 22, 2002 | 03:40 PM
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how much power can you expect to get from that?

my only worry is stripped nuts, so err on the small side if you can so you don't round them.
Old Jan 22, 2002 | 05:22 PM
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Originally posted by JiggaMyZigga
how much power can you expect to get from that?

my only worry is stripped nuts, so err on the small side if you can so you don't round them.
if its too small it wont fit. if its too big, it wont grab, i need whatever size it is..you cant fit a 21mm socket onto a 23mm nut..
Old Jan 22, 2002 | 05:25 PM
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the pulley is really that noticable? revs that much quicker?
Old Jan 22, 2002 | 07:45 PM
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Originally posted by Rancid90SE
the pulley is really that noticable? revs that much quicker?
It's more noticable than a POP charger. And less noticable than a Y-pipe. And very noticable when you look at how fast it revs. It revs pretty quick on my Auto. And now, I don't see how I lived without it. My low end power suffered a lot until I got this mod. Now, I can drive around town much easier.
Old Jan 22, 2002 | 08:38 PM
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how much did the UDP cost? i'd never do it myself, so how much to have a mechanic do it? (hrs of labor...)
Old Jan 22, 2002 | 08:41 PM
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Originally posted by JiggaMyZigga
how much did the UDP cost? i'd never do it myself, so how much to have a mechanic do it? (hrs of labor...)
If you have a VG, it will cost over $200, I think. Then add belts. I have a VE and it cost me $100, then $30 worth of belts, and free labor. It would probably take a mechanic two hours to do the job. So, $150 for labor. Just a guess.

Go to www.courtesyparts.com and click on the Unorthodox link, if you have a VG. If you have a VE, do a search for ASP. That is the name of the company.
Old Jan 22, 2002 | 08:51 PM
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go to a parts store and rent the sockets from them. you'll have to put down a deposit on them, then when you give the tools back, they refund your money.

if you're really concerned about getting the right one, pull the right side cover, then drive to the parts store. turn the wheel hard right so you'll have room to reach in there. go inside and get the whole set, then try the sockets until you find the correct one. rent that one. easy enough.
Old Jan 22, 2002 | 10:31 PM
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I am interested in doing this also, but was wondering what (if any) special tools are needed to properly put the new belts on the pulley. Do I need a belt tensioner? If so, are they sold at Sears, or do I need to go to an Autozone type place to get one?
Old Jan 23, 2002 | 09:01 AM
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My ASP UDP is in the mail as we speak. Does the oil crank seal come with it? Do you replave it no matter what, or just a good idea while your in there?
Old Jan 23, 2002 | 09:09 AM
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Originally posted by Booner8269
My ASP UDP is in the mail as we speak. Does the oil crank seal come with it? Do you replave it no matter what, or just a good idea while your in there?
if it's leaking replace it. if it's not..you CAN replace it..but u don't have to.
Old Jan 23, 2002 | 10:21 AM
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Booner: I would replace the oil seal even if it isn't leaking. It does not come with the pulley. Go to the dealership and buy a Front Main Oil Seal. It costs $4. And it takes 1 minute to replace.

Mizeree: You do not need any special tools for replacing belts. Just a nice socket and wrench set. You do not need to buy tensioners. There are tensioners already on your car. Just loosen them and the belts will fall off. If you have trouble getting the new belts on.... loosen the tensioner as much as it will go and then try to put the new belts on.
Old Jan 23, 2002 | 12:54 PM
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little update. the nut is DEFINATLY bigger than 24mm. my friend is letting me borrow whatever socket size it is(if he has it), and the only one i could get on there was 1-1/8" and there is some play when it changes directions..but its not the normal 6(?)sided socket, its got the little gripper ribs, so is that normal? as far as the play goes, its like maybe 1/10th of a turn. i dont want to get everything all set up and strip the nut, that would make me very unhappy. so now i'm guessing its about 26mm. anyone have any idea?
Old Jan 23, 2002 | 02:43 PM
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be very careful!

one inch is ~25 mm, so 1-1/8" is like..... ~28~ish mm. try 27!
Old Jan 23, 2002 | 05:25 PM
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Originally posted by JiggaMyZigga
be very careful!

one inch is ~25 mm, so 1-1/8" is like..... ~28~ish mm. try 27!
yet another update. i called my dad at work so see if he had anything smaller than the 1-1/8". he didnt know, he said he would look and talk to me when he got home..so he gets home and says "see if this fits, i'll be outside" so i go outside and look in his backseat and there is a pulley puller and hes sitting there trying tofigure out which pulley is the crank pulley, so i show him, test fit...................(suspense).................. ....it fits better than the other one. its a 1-1/16th
Old Jan 23, 2002 | 06:47 PM
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Umm..

I know this sounds anti-male, but why not just use a ruler to measure what size you need? Or is the thing buried inside the shaft of the pulley so you can't access it correctly with a ruler?
Old Jan 23, 2002 | 06:51 PM
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Re: Umm..

Originally posted by Mizeree_X
I know this sounds anti-male, but why not just use a ruler to measure what size you need? Or is the thing buried inside the shaft of the pulley so you can't access it correctly with a ruler?
its in a place where its not easily accessable without getting all messy from the salt and water thats on my tires and driveway to measure with a ruler. besides, making things harder is half the fun
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