N00b Question Ohming out Injectors - 94 GXE
#1
N00b Question Ohming out Injectors - 94 GXE
More of an electrician for residential/commercial than electronics so I'm making sure I'm not missing anything.
Ohmed out an injector with my residential fluke meter and getting 3-3.5 across the terminals and my fluke is reading in kilos. The FSM shows 10-14 Ohms is the correct reading, so what's it mean that I'm getting a solid 3K ohms? Surely it isn't that far out of spec. This sound right to anyone?
The car came to me with two red top injectors installed and is now stuttering/sputtering/hesitating with an obvious lack of power. Already changed plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. Have 6 new Bosch injectors being delivered tomorrow. Not interested in doing this job twice and I'd like to make any good injectors available after the job. Would help to know where I'm going wrong with my resistance testing.
Thanks.
Ohmed out an injector with my residential fluke meter and getting 3-3.5 across the terminals and my fluke is reading in kilos. The FSM shows 10-14 Ohms is the correct reading, so what's it mean that I'm getting a solid 3K ohms? Surely it isn't that far out of spec. This sound right to anyone?
The car came to me with two red top injectors installed and is now stuttering/sputtering/hesitating with an obvious lack of power. Already changed plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. Have 6 new Bosch injectors being delivered tomorrow. Not interested in doing this job twice and I'd like to make any good injectors available after the job. Would help to know where I'm going wrong with my resistance testing.
Thanks.
#2
I've gotten some really goofy readings before on bad injectors. You're placing one probe of the multimeter on one injector terminal, and the other probe on the other injector terminal, correct?
And are you certain you don't have your multimeter on a goofy setting though?
You should check all of the injectors to see what the known good ones ohm out. If you don't get the correct 10-14 ohm reading on any of them you know you must have a goofy setting engaged.
And are you certain you don't have your multimeter on a goofy setting though?
You should check all of the injectors to see what the known good ones ohm out. If you don't get the correct 10-14 ohm reading on any of them you know you must have a goofy setting engaged.
#3
Went back out to test and realized my meter battery is dead. Haven't used it much the last year but that's the problem.
Is that your car in your sig? Looks like mine; even has the yellow primer wearing through the blue on the bumper lol
Can't find it now, but read before in many places where the red top injectors aren't for the VG, plus I've got all the symptoms described for bad injectors, so goofy ohms or not, gonna swap these out and get some batteries for the meter later to see which of the old ones are still any good.
Is that your car in your sig? Looks like mine; even has the yellow primer wearing through the blue on the bumper lol
Can't find it now, but read before in many places where the red top injectors aren't for the VG, plus I've got all the symptoms described for bad injectors, so goofy ohms or not, gonna swap these out and get some batteries for the meter later to see which of the old ones are still any good.
#4
I've never owned or worked on a VG, but I *think* the VG injectors are either pink or yellowish.
Red injectors are definitely VE (and also VQ)
You could actually put all VE injectors into your car and it will run/drive fine, but will run rich and your MPG would suffer and you probably wouldn't pass emissions. Mixing and matching VG and VE injectors is surely the least desirable thing to do.
Yes that's one of my VE's in my sig. That was actually from my emissions test so I could get my inspection sticker while I was still N/A just prior to my turbo install (intercooler was installed but no other turbo parts).
Red injectors are definitely VE (and also VQ)
You could actually put all VE injectors into your car and it will run/drive fine, but will run rich and your MPG would suffer and you probably wouldn't pass emissions. Mixing and matching VG and VE injectors is surely the least desirable thing to do.
Yes that's one of my VE's in my sig. That was actually from my emissions test so I could get my inspection sticker while I was still N/A just prior to my turbo install (intercooler was installed but no other turbo parts).
#5
Nice. Not sure where I'm going with this one just yet - gotta get it smooth before I decide if n/a is good enough.
It does run rich with the red tops on the middle cylinders, the rest are beige/pink with a yellow dot.
It does run rich with the red tops on the middle cylinders, the rest are beige/pink with a yellow dot.
#6
You still have to run on the dyno and do the sniff test for inspection?
#7
#11
Yes, sir. Tried RBS in Forney, TX - as someone had mentioned in another thread - but they were going for an extra $20 each and only *maybe* had 7 new injectors left from an order several years ago.
RockAuto.com is definitely the place to check for these injectors. Got the new ones installed, but waiting on dealer order for a gasket and hose I split off the IACV before I test and see if my problem was fixed. But the injectors looked good.
RockAuto.com is definitely the place to check for these injectors. Got the new ones installed, but waiting on dealer order for a gasket and hose I split off the IACV before I test and see if my problem was fixed. But the injectors looked good.
#12
Yes, sir. Tried RBS in Forney, TX - as someone had mentioned in another thread - but they were going for an extra $20 each and only *maybe* had 7 new injectors left from an order several years ago.
RockAuto.com is definitely the place to check for these injectors. Got the new ones installed, but waiting on dealer order for a gasket and hose I split off the IACV before I test and see if my problem was fixed. But the injectors looked good.
RockAuto.com is definitely the place to check for these injectors. Got the new ones installed, but waiting on dealer order for a gasket and hose I split off the IACV before I test and see if my problem was fixed. But the injectors looked good.
I'm surprised I've never even heard of RBS seeing as they're local
#13
I got all new VE injectors a couple years back on closeout too from Rock Auto. Mine were $275 total. So I was wondering if yours were on closeout as well. You can really get some good deals from them on closeout stuff.
I'm surprised I've never even heard of RBS seeing as they're local
I'm surprised I've never even heard of RBS seeing as they're local
They have an office in Grand Prairie too.
But yeah, RA was the better option.; Checked them out because of a post you made about them and those injectors you bought, and glad I did. $269 total with tax and next day shipping for the set.
#16
#18
The good news is that my parts came in and the injectors fixed my issues, the bad news is I can't drive it yet because I've got coolant coming off the bottom of the motor, no where near the radiator.
Imagine the odds.
Time to go sifting through water pump threads now. They sure didn't make the water pump easy to get to in this car. Glad I finally found the alternator though. lol
Imagine the odds.
Time to go sifting through water pump threads now. They sure didn't make the water pump easy to get to in this car. Glad I finally found the alternator though. lol
#19
Okay, so the coolant thing was my bad - missed one hose. So back to the original point of this thread.
Got my meter working and tested the injectors I pulled out. The two VE injectors (in my VG) are at 11.4 and 12 ohms. The other four injectors were at 424, 62, 19, and 0 ohms. No wonder the thing ran so rough.
Gonna list these two red tops for anyone wanting some used injectors for their VE.
Thanks for you help, James.
Got my meter working and tested the injectors I pulled out. The two VE injectors (in my VG) are at 11.4 and 12 ohms. The other four injectors were at 424, 62, 19, and 0 ohms. No wonder the thing ran so rough.
Gonna list these two red tops for anyone wanting some used injectors for their VE.
Thanks for you help, James.
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