ve turbo update
07-07-2015, 01:39 PM
#81
Jeff made very good numbers while still N/A. I want to say my old black VE dyno'd 180 whp and 185 ft lbs of torque with intake/exhaust/underdrive pulley. I can't remember what type of dyno that was on though. And it had massive heat soak that day, I was surprised it did 180 whp. 
What mods did it have for those dyno runs?
His car reminds me of Hadman's VE. You guys are really going to town. I should have my engine back in by this weekend as well. Going to try to start my engine break-in on Saturday. What type of break-in is Jeff doing?
What mods did it have for those dyno runs?
His car reminds me of Hadman's VE. You guys are really going to town. I should have my engine back in by this weekend as well. Going to try to start my engine break-in on Saturday. What type of break-in is Jeff doing?
07-07-2015, 03:06 PM
#84
The break-in refers to the first start-up and few hundred miles on the new engine. That period of time is critical to good piston ring seal specifically.
There are two camps: one that says absolutely baby your engine for a few hundred miles, this would be a "soft" break-in. Then there is an emerging camp these days that advocate for a "hard" break-in.
The hard break-in goes something along these lines:
Start engine up (with break-in oil of course), let it warm up to operating temp, then immediately take it on a 20-30 mile drive putting varying loads on the engine. Accelerate in gear about 75% throttle up pretty high into the powerband (though not to redline), and then decelerate IN GEAR back down. Do variations of this at various engine load/gear ranges. After this 20-30 mile drive, come back, change the oil, etc.
Decelerating IN GEAR is, evidently, vitally important to proper ring seal. If the cylinder walls get "glazed" during initial break-in you'll forever have terrible ring seal and in turn excessive blow-by etc. About the last thing you want for good ring-seal is to start the engine up and let it idle for an hour or to immediately take it on a long highway cruise at a constant speed type of thing.
What I stated above isn't meant to be an exhaustive guide but is the basic premise of the hard break-in. There are endless arguments all over the internet about which style of break-in is better. The "soft" break-in seems to be a bit of old-school think and you'll still find old hot rod guys doing this style break-in.
Personally, I'm leaning toward a more "hard" break-in myself.
07-07-2015, 04:45 PM
#85
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: midland city AL.
Posts: 74
Agree ive always ran mine at 2000rpm 10 mins first start up change oil then ride normal to hard after that no cruising for 50 miles. game over your rings should be done seated in those first ten minutes for the most part
07-08-2015, 08:32 PM
#93
I don't have an EGR delete. I have all my emissions crap still, as I have to still do emissions down here for another 3 years 
But you can make your own out of virtually any little piece of metal. Just scribe your holes for the studs and screw the plate down in place of your EGR. You can seal it up with some RTV or something under the plate.
But you can make your own out of virtually any little piece of metal. Just scribe your holes for the studs and screw the plate down in place of your EGR. You can seal it up with some RTV or something under the plate.
07-10-2015, 04:34 AM
#98
yup i used the 240SX EGR delete plate and it's was a perfect fit. even came with the little gasket.
07-10-2015, 09:26 PM
#99
Well I've been working pretty much non-stop for the past week getting my car driveable. I'm doing the engine break-in naturally aspirated. Got my stock injectors in, no turbo stuff, etc. I'm gonna try to put some mileage on it while N/A over these next few weeks or months, then when my gearset comes in I'll put all the turbo stuff back on at that point.
Since I didn't want to pull my full exhaust and because I have the stock y-pipe in for the break-in, I welded up a little adapter to adapt my factory y-pipe to my 3" exhaust.
Did that tonight after work, now tomorrow all I've got to do is add coolant, PS fluid, and a few other odds and ends in the morning and hopefully will do my initial startup and break-in tomorrow. Sure hope it doesn't self-disintegrate on me at first startup
Since I didn't want to pull my full exhaust and because I have the stock y-pipe in for the break-in, I welded up a little adapter to adapt my factory y-pipe to my 3" exhaust.
Did that tonight after work, now tomorrow all I've got to do is add coolant, PS fluid, and a few other odds and ends in the morning and hopefully will do my initial startup and break-in tomorrow. Sure hope it doesn't self-disintegrate on me at first startup
07-11-2015, 09:55 PM
#103
Started right up tonight, what a relief. Sounded about how I'd expect a VE to sound that has been sitting or is brand new and isn't all oiled up everywhere. I had my brother start it up while I filmed and topped off the fluids, so my camera work isn't the best as I was messing with the power steering fluid as he was turning lock to lock to bleed it.
Once it warmed up I immediately took it on a 30 mile "hard" break-in with lots of 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gear pulls making sure to decelerate IN gear often. I was really expecting some loss in low end power but if anything it actually feels more powerful and I never even fully went WOT in it. By the time I made it back home the engine had quieted down nicely.
07-12-2015, 06:24 PM
#110
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: midland city AL.
Posts: 74
Me no i put the 550cc injectors in im surprised it actually ildes 2000 rpm is all she will do then it bogs down lol i did 10min 1800rpm idle changed the oil and filter backed it in garage gotta order nistune soon if i wasnt leavin to alabama the middle of the week id take her to the shop so we can get the piping done
07-12-2015, 07:48 PM
#112
07-12-2015, 07:50 PM
#113
07-13-2015, 06:20 AM
#117
It looked like in your videos you've already got gauges in your glove box door or maybe dashboard?
