TonyJr

Going with nistune. How does nistune read the wideband?

https://i.imgur.com/05ORnGv.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Efo1k0n.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/BqPYqt8.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/fjovMLq.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/rcokLKQ.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/RoIzzS2.jpg

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

depending which WBO2 you use...you plug the output signal to your laptop and nistune will pick it up.

TonyJr

That my next purchase is a wideband innovacate lc1. Would this work?

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Innovate LC-1 here. Works perfect with Nistune. I got the Innovate package that came with the gauge too. I was glad to get rid of my clock for it

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Where'd you pick up the N62 MAF? Did you get a good JY deal from a J30?

And do you have a BOV yet?

TonyJr

https://i.imgur.com/BEZTrDb.jpg

Pick it up off Craigslist. Guy was parting out his z32. $40

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Same BOV as me

Did that section of pipe with the BOV flange come with it or did you add that? Make sure your o-ring on that seals properly. Your BOV shouldn't be able to spin without a lot of effort. I bought that same section on eBay and it was pretty poor quality.

I ended up having to buy the actual HKS mild steel flange for it and welding it onto my own pipe.

TonyJr

Ill try it out. The pipe n flange came with bov. How does this bov sound? U like it? I'm hoping I don't run into many problems with the whole setup. Your issue with the white smoke freaks me out. Is a catch can a must have?

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

You can hear it in my videos and you can Google it too to hear it on other cars. At very low boost levels/moderate acceleration the SSQV has a tendency to sound a little fluttery. This is not to be confused with turbo flutter though at first it sounds similar and is a little unnerving. I love the way it sounds at full boost/acceleration.

Although for $40 you shouldn't really second guess it should you?

All engines have increasing blow-by as they age. Normally your PCV system routes blow-by right back into your intake - meaning you never see the "white smoke" in the first place. Once you boost your car, your PCV system no longer operates normally.

The "white smoke" you see in my video is the blow-by escaping out of the valve cover (the same blow-by that previously was routed back into the intake). If I had a catch-can in that location you wouldn't see any smoke.

Having said that, if you have more than even a tiny amount of blow-by currently you will absolutely have blow-by when you're boosted. That blow-by needs to go somewhere. This means if you have an unvented valve cover breather like I was running that you will also have "white smoke". Your amount may be more or may be less than mine.

I will say in hindsight I have always had a lot of blow-by in that engine. Everytime I took my upper intake manifold off I had pools of oil in the runners. And actually, thinking back on all of my VE's, I have had more blow-by than I would like on all of them.

Have you ever had your intake manifold off? Did you have oil in it?

Unless your VE is in inordinately good shape, this means you will more than likely have my same issue. Run it to a catch-can and you will see no smoke.

TonyJr

I never notice oil inside intake manifold.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

You've actually removed the IM and had no oil in it?

What about your intake pipe?

If not then you shouldn't have the issue to the extent that mine had/had

TonyJr

That's good news to hear. Thanks for all the help. I going to draw a picture of my setup and post it up. Let me know what you see wrong

TonyJr

https://i.imgur.com/wSxsW2T.jpg

I missing the catch can. Not 100% sure how to install. Let me know about vacuum lines if right?


I just order s ebay catch can. I now know how it works.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Looks pretty good

Just to be totally clear though - your wastegate needs to connect between your downpipe and your reverse y-pipe (green pipe) in your drawing. You want to T it into your downpipe so that it's going along with the downpipe flow (i.e., not a "T" shape, but rather a "V" or "Y" type shape). Same thing with your connection at the reverse y-pipe. You want a smooth flow into your wastegate, meaning you also want a "V" or "Y" type shape here too.

Boost control routing is correct

You need to place your BOV in front of your MAF.

And just to be clear you want your vacuum/boost stuff after the throttle plate. I would also not tie those in together. Run separate taps for both your boost gauge and your BOV.

TonyJr

Should I get a vacuum tree?

TonyJr

I never seen anyone connect there downpipe to wastegate. Just wondering what's the difference. Is it done this way for emissions purpose?

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

You don't have to get a vacuum manifold. I just wouldn't tee everything into a single smallish vacuum tap.

You've "never" seen a recirculated wastegate? I would say recirculated wastegates are far more common. You actually can just open dump your wastegate if you want but it will be insanely loud and literally likely scare people. Typically that was only done on full out race/drag cars but I forgot street cars these days like loud ricey atmospheric dumps.

So you're right. I said you "need" to connect your wastegate to the downpipe but really should have said you "should" connect it to the downpipe

TonyJr

Makes sense now. Ill try it open wastegate first to see how loud it is. I definitely don't like high pitch sound coming out of my car.

Is there a reason why bov has to be in front of m.a.f sensor

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Who is making your piping and when? How is your friend's build coming along?

TonyJr

He just bought a welder so hopefully in 2 weeks we start with the manifold and downpipe. We work alot so weekends is only time to mess with car. But I still have to safe $ for nistune too. I cant wait

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Another thing to clarify, since you keep referring to it as a manifold - your drawing doesn't seem to indicate a reverse y-pipe.

I'm not sure if you did that on purpose just to simplify the drawing but you want both your front exhaust manifold and your rear exhaust manifold routed to a y-pipe with that single pipe feeding the turbo.

Post up some pics when y'all start the work

TonyJr

The the best artist lol. But we got that part figure out. I'll take pics for people that what to turbo a ve.

TonyJr

Boost controller came in

https://i.imgur.com/HIBsj6m.jpg

Maxpwer

iTrader: (7)

Say what? Look at some more setups, this is done on 99% street cars, mostly just for noise control but emissions/legal requirements play a role. It's illegal in every state to dump exhaust without sending it through a catalytic converter first. Depending on the state, your emission test may include a visual exam that will result in your cars failure to pass. Even without the visual test, the sound will alert them that something is "wrong". My state, IL doesn't test pre 96 cars at all anymore. No more Dyno road simulation, they only scan your ECU through the OBDII port to verify all emission controls are functioning properly. As result, for my 91 turbo I built a 3" exhaust with no catalytic converter at all, but it's still a grey area as it's illegal to remove (or bypass) a catalytic converter despite the fact that no one will ever look.

TonyJr

I'm in Florida so i don't have to worry about the emissions issue. But going to try it with a open wastegate to hear. Then ill decide from there.

TonyJr

Do you think $850 for a stainless steel turbo manifold and downpipe is pricey?

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

You keep calling it a "turbo manifold".

You mean reverse y-pipe, right?

What I would be concerned with is the routing and how much it's "tucked". It's not easy to do that stuff and have it not affect ground clearance. It takes some effort and time to totally tuck both a 3" downpipe and y-pipe above the crossmember level.

But generally speaking, $850 for a full SS mandrel bend downpipe and reverse y-pipe setup is actually probably a decent or even good price considering it's not uncommon for people pay near that price for just SS cat-back exhausts.

Having said that, would I pay $850 for somebody to build a downpipe and reverse y-pipe? I wouldn't. But then again I hate having to pay anybody to do anything at all on any of my cars. Doing it all yourself is part of the fun/pride in it.

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

i have a wastegate dump to the atmosphere. yes it scares ppl thinking you have a massive exhaust leak. if you're going straight out to the atmosphere you will need some pipe that leads the hot stinky exhaust gases from the engine bay out. you can't have it just no pipe after the flange..you'll not like the exhaust smell or the smell of parts melting.

$850...is that 304SS TIG welded? the problem with MIG welding is that if you don't have a very good MIG welder you will have pin hole leaks. i learn that the hard way.

Maxpwer

iTrader: (7)

If you take into account a "decent" mig welder will set you back around $2k (TIG closer to $10k), not to mention a class and lots of practice, $850 is a rather small price to pay a professional who will no doubt do a far superior job. If it isn't someone with at least 5+ years of welding AND custom exhaust building, then I would say that's way to much.
You mentioned the turbo feed and downpipe, what about the rest of the exhaust? MES has a SS 3" catback that you weld up yourself, which is probably the option I would have choose if they had been around back when I built my custom one.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Do you mean the physical machine or you mean the person doing the welding?

I was surprised how many pinhole leaks I had in my charge piping. I would have never known had I not pressure tested all the piping.

For example, I found a handful of pinhole leaks on this IC pipe. I was surprised since it looked perfectly good to me. They welds are all with .035 wire (aka wide and fat) and continuous beads around the diameter etc.



I individually tested every pipe separately with compressed air. Then I was hunting around with soap and water to pinpoint the leaks and weld them up. I did notice the leaks were all somehow seeping up around/under the bead somehow and not in any of the actual welds themselves (i.e., didn't get full "integration" around the total diameter of the pipe on BOTH sides of every bead).

I assume a lot of people building stuff like this never bother to pressure test and actually aren't aware of pinhole leaks.

I also assume pinhole leaks are largely completely inconsequential but it irritated me so I found every last one and welded them up.

Maxpwer

iTrader: (7)

By "integration" you mean "penetration". That's the term us pros use. You need to go slower or turn up the heat!



















Noob

TonyJr

Central Florida shop is a well-known shop tuning and building custom turbo kits. The exhaust I'll do myself. The difference between stainless steel and steel is stainless steel last longer right? Hold the heat inside more as well

TonyJr

I planned on buying about $100 of exhaust steel pipe at advance discount auto parts. N tig weld then let a pro finish the job

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

I guess a better way to describe what I mean would be the "center point" of the penetration. Imagine a 1/2" wide weld bead around a pipe butt joint. Assuming being an amateur like me, if the exact "center point" of the penetration (bead) doesn't happen to fall directly in line with the joint, the outside edges of the bead are subject to leak and what I found was happening to me with leaks appearing to come up around the bead.

I guess more succinctly, your joint can leak if your bead is still covering the joint but not necessarily perfectly centered ON the joint. Which is what was happening to me.

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

LOL...that's why i said EFF IT...and TIG the entire mess. TIG there's A LOT more control. with MIG once the wire feeds you have to commit or break out the grinder later on.

Maxpwer

iTrader: (7)

You mean arc, or wire fed arc? A true MIG, and certainly a TIG is out of the price range for someone who isn't welding for a living.
Please believe that building a catback exhaust without a lift and experience is NOT something you want to take on. I can almost guarantee that you will end up spending double on piping because creating the proper bends takes experience and some trial and error. You would be way better off buying a 3" catback from MES for $195 or $270 for SS where all the bends are created for you. Don't both tacking it up, just take the kit to a shop and have them do it for you. You will be much happier with the end product and won't feel it's nessesary to completely redo it. Several guys on this board alone have experienced this first hand. Besides, I don't think that any local auto store has 3" mandrel bends. Were you thinking of going 2.5"?

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

it will last longer since 304SS has higher nickel content to resist rusting. it's harder to weld and a PITA to machine. the heat difference you won't really notice unless you ceramic coat it.

you know the pipes you get from your local parts store is thin walled press bent pipes right?...and i'm pretty sure they are not SS.

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

yes MIG welding on your back...not the "fun-est" moment for me.

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

i lap jointed everything and it was still a pain in the rear to seal everything up.
i rigged up a nice exhaust pipe expander so it's easy to make lap joints now.

Maxpwer

iTrader: (7)

By the way, a good long term plan if you want to weld is to find a local community college with a good welding lab. Your first semester you will learn a ton, and best of all you will have access to MIG and TIG welders you could never afford. If the teacher is cool and you take the same or higher level class the next semester he will likely allow you to bring in your own stuff to work on. As a bonus the shop will also have other metal working tools that will make your work much easier. Things like metals band saws and miter saws, grinders and heavy duty wire wheels, sand blasters and plasma cutters, drill press, etc were all available at my local community college. The car shop classes even had full lifts that I was able to use when classes weren't going on. The most important thing is to make friends with the teacher, and show him you are interested in learning everything you can. I recommend this to anyone who wants to weld, even if you have a welder you will likely learn how a nice (ie expensive) MIG and TIG welder compare to your home unit.

Edit: Despite already knowing how to weld (one class followed by 10 years of "recreational welding" (ie not as a job) I still learned a lot at the community college welding shop. Those classes really brought my knowledge and skills to a new level, and the cost was well worth it just for access to the tools and machines alone. I can't stress enough what a great experience this was and I highly recommend it to anyone