TonyPa

I have the chance to buy a 93 Maxima with a 3.0 auto from a friend of mine. It has 93,000 miles, runs and shifts perfect.
I planned on having the timing belt and pump done right away, since he don't know if it was done when he bought it last year. that cannot be ignored!
He took it for inspection, and they failed it for exhaust, and struts. He did say it kind of feels like a boat on bends, like leans too much, so you have to take the bends slow.
I don't know if they failed it since they "might" have seen leaking struts? They seldom ever drive the cars for inspection in Pa., so they didn't fail it for what it drove like. They saw something.
I tried to look up struts, and call around, even a dealer! ugh!!
I see I can buy the struts, but no one sales the springs??
No one can get them. I don't know if it needs the springs or how to tell without buying the car first.
The exhaust is bad at the springy part, if that makes sense. But that exhaust don't bother me.
He wants 500 bucks for the car. I am just concerned about the struts, and not being able to get the springs, or if it even needs them. I dunno? Any input??
I was hoping to find complete strut assemblies, but I guess for a 93, no way!

SideNote: I did speak with a guy at shox.com. just now, from searching through the forum here.
He stated seldom do the springs really ever go bad, it is the cartridges usually.
Just in case, he does sale at least lowering springs.

Here's a photo of the car, "link below" he said if it is sitting right, the springs are fine. Just the cartridges are shot more than likely? Seems to be sitting right to me.
Top of strut shown too. I asked if mine was the electronic strut stuff.
He said there would be a wire on the top of the strut. I see nothing on top of the strut?
Here's a link to my photos. It won't let me link them here for some reason.

http://s1345.photobucket.com/user/pa...?sort=3&page=1



.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Can you not just take it to a different inspection station that won't actually drive it?

That seems kind of weird to me to literally fail a car for struts. We have safety inspection here (plus emissions for the first 25 years), and the "safety inspection" pretty much consists of the tech driving the car from one end of the parking lot to the other, honking the horn to make sure it works, testing all the lights, and testing the seatbelts. I have had some pretty nitpicky techs try to fail me on safety for crap like "worn windshield wipers" or some such.

Anyway, if they actually did fail it in the "computer" and you are definitely for sure stuck repairing those things -

You are correct there are no aftermarket stock springs available for our cars, and definitely no preassembled "quick strut" type options. The springs don't actually "go bad" so there is no point in replacing them. That is of course, unless one is randomly rusted through or extremely pitted or some such, but I'd doubt it.

Just buy you some cheap Monroes or Gabriels and call it a day. RockAuto.com has the rears (API brand) for $11 a piece right now. The Monroe fronts are $44 each. That's only $110 (excluding shipping) to replace all your struts. I would strongly suggest you replace all four strut mounts too at the same time, which typically fixes the rear end "sag" you see on these cars. Rock Auto has all four strut mounts for about $65.

TonyPa

Thanks for replying. I tried to show a photo. I don't know if the link worked. It sits at a prefect ride height.
I won't be able to take it to a mechanic until I buy the car. The inspection is out, and its not mine yet, until Thursday. I really like the car, and for 500 bucks, I can't beat it!
I know the exhaust is bad, but I can do that.
But the struts, I do have a set of spring compressors. The cheap ones. I hope I don't get hurt doing that part. Everyone scared me about taking them apart.
My buddy said it does feel like a "boat" going down the road. And going into bends, it does seem to lean easily. But the ride height still looks stock, not squatting or anything. I am guess struts then. He said the mechanic said he couldn't do the emissions, that the car was too old and his machine doesn't do that? I never heard of that! my mechanic did my 90 Benz when I had it. He said no check engine lights are on, so it should pass emissions.
I appreciate the rock auto advice.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

If Pennsylvania is anything like Texas, pre-OBD2 cars here have to do emissions testing on an actual rolling dyno machine that uses a sniffer at the tailpipe to literally test emissions levels. They run your car at two different speeds to do a "low speed" and a "high speed" test. These days, because the frequency with which a shop would actually need to have a rolling dyno emissions tester is so low, many shops don't even have the equipment to emissions test pre-OBD2.

Newer cars (generally 1995 and up) don't have to do an ACTUAL emissions test. They literally just get hooked up to a computer and get tested for codes. This means that the check engine light (or lack thereof) on your Maxima is actually moot as far as emissions, because your emissions test wouldn't be done via a computer and wouldn't be looking for codes - as it would be testing the actual emissions coming from your tailpipe. Again, assuming Pennsylvania is like Texas. It sounds like it might be since you said the inspector told your friend the car is too old and he doesn't have a machine to test the emissions.

But again - I wouldn't bother replacing your struts unless you HAVE TO to get it inspected. If you are not stuck going back to that same mechanic/shop, I would try my luck at a different one if I were you. Unless of course the struts feel dangerously worn out/bad to you, but I'd doubt it.

TonyPa

Okay, your Exactly right! I just called three mechanics locally for emissions. They said a tailpipe sniff needs done, and none will do it. As their machines each broke, "that part I guess", they did not repair them. Damn!!!
I guess they failed the struts, because they seen something odd. But he is worried about me driving it. He said it floats around the road alot. Like scary on bends.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

If it's that scary to drive then you want to replace the struts regardless.

And yes it can be very annoying trying to find a shop with a (working!) rolling dyno tester. There's a Jiffy Lube near me who still has one and I try to use them but they periodically break their tie down strap deal and refuse to test my cars since they can't strap it down. Other shops still have the machines but will frequently lie and claim they're broken, when in reality I can tell they're just busy/lazy and don't want to bother with it.

Hectic

iTrader: (20)

Too much rust, stay away. Plus it's a GXE.

TonyPa

Oh yeah, I detected the ones I called today, didn't want to deal with the older style emissions. I really like Nissan. My Xterra ran forever. I wanted to get a Maxima. Maybe I will keep looking for a newer one. But something I don't have to take a loan out for.

Okay, will do. I am sorry to admit, I don't know what a GXE is? But I will take your word on staying away. Thats why I came on here. I appreciate it.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

The rust doesn't look that bad to me to turn down a $500 car

I don't see rust on the front strut towers so it can't be THAT bad. Unless the rear strut towers are totally rusted out, I'd say you've got a good cheap car on your hands

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

GXE is the luxury trim, nothing wrong with it. just the trans was a bit weaker than SE but if you dont bag the **** out of it its fine, my GXE was one of the highest mileage 3rd gens on here. rust is bugger all too

all you need is the strut cartridge unless the springs are broken which i doubt, just get KYB GR2

jakeru

My biggest regret on my GXE is not getting Konis when it was time to do struts. I cheaped out and went with Tokico blues. Suspension techniques anti sway bars front and rear really help the GXE corner a lot flatter and more controlled. I had a clunk in the front over bumps I finally diagnosed as worn out a-arm bushings. Got those replaced with energy suspension polyurethane. I did change the front strut mounts when I changed th shocks. I haven't had to mess with the rear link bushings. Best of luck!

TonyPa

I see there are some options for better struts. Thats a good things. I guess with the ride height the springs are okay then. I was told lastnight by a neighbor, those springs rarely ever need replaced. the ride height can tell if the springs re bad? Seem okay to me! The first photo should show ride height. I cannot link photos to this forum, not sure why.

http://s1345.photobucket.com/user/pa...?sort=3&page=1

I know the rear strut towers are solid. The rust is mostly in easy areas to repair.
I was concerned about the timing belt also? I don't know the mileage for
replacing them??
It's the 3.0 SOHC. I don't know how hard they are to change. I think my local guy wants about $550 to change it. At 93,000 it has never been changed. SO I think, he is not sure. I see many on the craiglist with high miles. These motors must last a while.
I read these cars go for a long time, don't know about the trannys. I baby my cars most of the time pretty well. I really like this car. Very confused.
Also, being the springs, "which cannot be bought", probably don't need replaced. Thats a bonus. I guess i was relating it to older cars, when springs went bad, they got that lean to them. I guess struts are different. I wouldn't mind trying to change the struts. I have a spring compressor, the cheapo set. Otherwise, the front section of the exhaust is leaking. And the e brake, and small gas line leak at the back. "The line". Otherwise, pretty good car.
I got my call back from yesterday, my landlords son. He has a service station. He said he can still do the sniff test. Said he can take care of it! That made my day.
I so like this car, but of course wanted advice from guys like you!
This guy I am buying it from is up in age, he drives them easy. I see that the GXE has a weak tranny. So maybe a tranny rebuild in the future. If they sale goodies for this car. Then I would even be happier!!!

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

I wouldn't bother trying to find higher end struts for this car. Besides, Konis and Tokicos are obsolete anyway, so that's moot. KYB's are nicer than Gabriel/Monroe but they are also much more expensive for very little difference in ride quality on a stock height car.

The rust issue is also moot IMO. I assume any other $500 20 year old car you'd find in your area would have just as much rust if not more.

You do want to change the timing belt. I would think you could find a better deal than $550, but that could be the going rate for all I know.

$500 bucks is a very good deal for a great running car. VG's run forever, so with 93k miles and some minimal maintenance investment it should last you a very long time. Yes the auto transmissions are a weaker point of the 3rd gen but at this point it shouldn't deter you any more than any other FWD auto tranny in a $500 car.

ac max 92

iTrader: (13)

I agree with James. Even if you put on new struts all around and do the the timing belt and a tune up your still ending up with a solid car for around $1,500 or less and if it lasts 3 years or more it wouldn't owe you anything. Check behind the back seat on either side to see if the rear wheel arches are rusted through or badly rotted. I found those to be bad spots but just by pulling back the rear seatback you should be able to telll. Im surprised with the shops not doing the pre obd2 emissions. Here where I am they do a 2 speed idle test without the dyno roller. They just put it in park and hold the rpm's at 2,500 for a period of time then idle for a period of time and test for Co and hydrocarbons.

TonyPa

Thanks, thats what I thought too.
Another side note I forgot. He did say it didn't want to start on damp days, after rain. That was back in December. I told him to change the cap and wires. He did, and said it hasn't happened since them. I guess thats fixed.
I am probably going to jump on this car. a 500 dollar car in my area, are usually scrap cars.
This one I would consider a good car to dump some money into. Struts, Exhaust, Fuel line leak, E brake don't work, and drivers power window motor works, but nothing happens. That would be my repairs!
I see above someone said rock auto for the struts, and they were cheap.
I would have to be brave enough to just do the compressing the springs myself.


Exactly! I just called a guy down the road that worked for Nissan forever. He opened up his own shop a few years back. My buddy uses him. I told him I would buy the timing belt kit...water pump...etc.
He told me 300 bucks, not bad. He said drive it easy to get it there, its way over due.
I figure your right. Struts, Timing, Exhaust, "he said near the front". some flexible part is leaking. I don't think its going to take much. I am actually pretty excited.
I won't be smiling changing the struts, those springs scare me!

ac max 92

iTrader: (13)

By the sounds of what your describing the flex pipe is leaking. If there's flanges there chances are it may not have been done before. If it's been welded in with no flanges it obviously been done before but if it has flanges and you don't have a mig welder it may be easier to change yourself provided the bolts aren't too badly seized and if it does have flanges you'll need to get yourself some gaskets aswell. Check the classifieds aswell for parts you may be able to use such as the window motor and regulator.

TonyPa

I asked my friend to look back under it for me. He said that that was all bolted together. So it sounds to me like I may be able to unbolt all the sections off and put innew ones. Either way I'm sure I'll get it to work. He said when he took the door panel off the power window motor was working. But he couldn't understand why I wasn't lifting the window. Then again he is not very good with cars. I will have to take a look at it. Shouldn't be very expensive to fix that either

ac max 92

iTrader: (13)

If the motor is working it sounds like you need a regulator. Not a very hard fix.

TonyPa

He did take the door panel off, and said the motor was working. But he said something about wrapping a wire in there, so the window didn't fall. I have no idea. I don't like when people touch stuff, then it makes it worse for me.

TonyPa

I will be picking it up Thursday night. I just spent the last half hour, if taken care of, these dang things go for a lot of miles. Some have 350K on the clock?
On the flipside. I am nervous. With 93K, I am bringing it home gently, then down to the mechanic gently the following week, I hope this timing belt don't snap on me. He said no taps or anything when cold start, whatever that meant. But he doesn't know if the original owner changed it.
I am liking everything I am reading on this car. Nissan seems to really be on top of things. According to the reviews, and how happy people are with them.

jakeru

That's totally a bad window regulator. Very easy fix! Just replaced both rears on my '89 maxima a few months ago. (Had replaced both fronts years ago.). I found some aftermarket regulators on eBay for a touch over $20 each. So nice to have power windows working again! Should have done it years ago. I did have to mess with the master owner window switch. My max has a lot of miles on it (230k).

The transmission has been reliable. Change the fluid periodically, and when driving it, try to be gentle through the shifts. The shifting is very "lazy" (slow) in certain gear changes - meaning it slips a lot. This makes it a really smooth, comfortable ride, but you'll want to be neutral on the power (throttle) through the shift, so it's not wearing the clutches or bands or whatever. My auto tranny is still going strong at 230k, and I haven't even installed any aftermarket tranny cooler or anything even. I have been changing the ATF every 30k, and driving while being mindful of how it works.

You can still safely nail the throttle in between shifts.

TonyPa

Thank you for the advice on the window reg. He told me don't worry, the air works. I want the window to work too.
The tranny fluid is clean, but honestly, I am changing every single fluid out on the car. I do when I get any used car. Just so I know where I am at with everything, He is an older gentleman. SO he has driven it easy.
I drive mine pretty easy. Sometimes when going 45 mph, I slap my wifes Jeep Compass around, not impressed with the power. Might be the gearing.
i am just over concerned with the timing belt, and making it to get it done without and incident.
I was online looking, I didn't know they sold body kits, cold air intakes..all kinds of fun stuff. This could be bad for me!
Just for reference, this is the SOHC. So I guess 170hp. I would honestly like to add a tranny cooler. Just to make myself feel better if they help out.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

A very important yet almost universally overlooked "wear and tear" adder to an automatic transmission is the lack of people using their parking brake! I cringe watching people park their auto equipped cars on inclines and seeing it rock after the driver jams it into park. Same thing when coming out of park. It's good practice to always use your parking brake with the auto tranny - put foot on brake, shift to park, and then pull the ebrake while your foot is still on the brake. This totally prevents the rocking in gear and difficulty getting into gear that I routinely see people struggle with

TonyPa

Ohhhhhh. I so agree. The front of my house is on a hill. Not my driveway though!
However, When sitting on my porch....I see my neighbors constantly putting their car in park, no e brake... mostly the wife, and just letting the brake go.
When she pulls it out of park, you should here it!!!.....
I do have to see whats wrong with the E brake on this. He said the handle moves, but does nothing. Probably cables, I am guessing.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

guys i work with laugh at me that i use the E-brake every time in my auto transmission, at least when i go into gear from a hill i dont hear a loud clunk when the pin passes over the pawl

TonyPa

They shouldn't be laughing. When I used to do state inspections, people would get mad at me because their E break did not work and I would fail them. we have a lot of hills where I live. But then they would tell me they never used it. From not using it the cables end up seizing up. Although nobody seems to believe me on that one normally.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

theyre all old mechanics, they laugh at all the stuff i do even though im the only one under 50 there but im right half the time at least lol

TonyPa

I just switched the title today, going to go pick the car up tomorrow. I am going to drive it very easy. Kind of nervous with 93,000 on it, without knowing if the timing belt has been changed.
I may attempt it myself to save 300 bucks labor, we'll see.
Don't know how hard it is on a FWD 3.0 SOHC. Might be worth the 300 labor. Never done one on this type of car before.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

if youre really worried just try to remove part of the timing cover and get a flashlight to see if the belt is cracked

for kicks a few years ago we did a estimate for timing belt+ waterpump on my old GXE at work and all in it came out to $1500ish at $150ish/hour labour

TonyPa

WOW!! I can get the belt/tensioner/water pump/thermostat for 100 bucks. And they told me 300 labor.
Maybe that is cheap. He worked for Nissan for 20 years, but opened his own shop up the street. He did my Xterra a few years back, and saved my old parts to show me.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

yeah where i work the boss kinda doesnt use any lube, goes in dry lol

timing belt probably isnt on the verge of snapping, ive seen a few break and usually they were at the 250,000km mark/10 years old when they finally let go. i remember on my 1992 GXE it hadnt been changed in something like 7-8 years and when i changed it the belt looked fine

TonyPa

It is a 93, with 93,000 on it. He said when he starts it, there is no clattering. I don't know what that meant? I think it is supposed to be changed at 60K, from what I have read. Could be wrong though.
I will only drive it home, then to the shop to get done. After that. I will start on the exhaust and struts, and fuel line leak.
I will do the struts myself. Rock Auto as someone said in this thread, is cheap. That will stop the boat effect.

I wished this damn thing will quit making enter a security code to post..

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

clattering was a VTC problem on 92-94 SE with the VE30DE engine

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Keep in mind his prices are in Canuckistan dollars

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

its more here because to be a licensed tech with your Journeyman and Redseal certificate like i have to you have to apprentice and go to college for 4 years. states you dont need to go through all that stuff so labour rates are higher here lol

some dealerships my buddies work at are $170 an hour

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

So you don't have a gazillion "mechanico generals" on every street corner there?

And I'm not saying that's bad. A shocking number of ASE certified people I've dealt with seem to be just be incapable of doing anything without their Mitchell On Demand and the like. Plus, the ASE certified stuff gets over-used. You get one guy in a shop who is ASE certified in "brakes" and then the shop claims they are "ASE certified" but without a true master tech certification it doesn't really mean much. Nobody seems capable of true advanced diagnostics/troubleshooting anymore and shops just resort to being parts swappers.

I personally think that real world experience trumps any certifications for automotive work any day of the week for the vast majority of auto repair stuff. No way I'm paying $1,200 (in USD conversion of your price mentioned earlier) for a timing belt job on a Maxima. Give me the mechanico general who's done a dozen of these at 200 bucks a pop.

TonyPa

Oh okay. He just told me sometimes their clatter when first started if the timing belt is loose. He is not a mechanic though. Its nice and quiet.
I am sure if I drive it home easily, and then to the mechanic in about a week, I should be fine. Seems the "starting it up", is when they snap sometimes. I guess the torque put on them, when starting.
I just seen 60K for the service, and it has 93K, and the previous guy didn't tell him if it was done. He can't afford to fix all the stuff to pass inspection, so I am getting it cheap!

WOW......Our normal labor rate here near me is about 65.00 an hour for regular garages. The dealers ar somewhere around 95.00

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

nope, weirdest thing being in Las Vegas and such is seeing those 24 7 repair places. over here you cant advertise to do repairs from your home unless youre a Journeyman either

automotive program is pretty easy anyways and the government gives you $4k when you complete all 4 years

American dealerships (GM, Ford, Dodge) up North are around $170 an hour, my buddies that work on diesels all day make $60+ an hour. i make only half of that in the city independently

TonyPa

Just got home from picking her up. Wow, these 3.0's run very well. Idles great, shifts very nice.
I will pull the wheels soon, and check. But I think someone lied to him. This car drove perfect. It didn't have no boat effect, and handled perfect on bends. I have no idea why they failed him for struts, unless they are leaking when I check.
Yes, the exhaust is loud underneath. He did say the flex pipe area. And there is a fuel smell at the back. Hopefully I don't have to pull the tank. He said the line was leaking, hopefully somewhere easy to get to. I am quite impressed with this motor.
The brake pedal felt a little low, unless I am just used to my other car. The car pulled to the right slightly when I applied the brakes, may be the left caliper hanging up. Light grinding I think when I hit them. Doesn't seem to bad to me after all. I have to finish a car up in my garage, then I will get the Nissan in. E brake handle does nothing. Probably needs new e brake cable, I am guessing. Seemed fun to drive.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Fuel smell is probably the common vent hose crack. It's right behind the driver back wheel, the rubber vent hose about a foot long, it routes over the rear subframe. Very common and not a difficult or time consuming fix. Just need about a foot long section of new hose for it.

Sounds like you lucked out on the struts. If you can somehow get away with not doing them (ie, can you start the inspection over again at a different shop?) then I wouldn't bother with them