Darkwing48

iTrader: (1)

Probably mean get the parts from a 1994 year vehicle... or 94 inch rims.

Maxpwer

iTrader: (7)

There are two type of motors that the 3rd gens came with. All 89-91 were all VG30E (SOHC) engines with 160hp/182Tq regardless of trim level; SE or GXE. The 92-94 Maximas had an optional VE30DE (DOHC) with 190hp/190tq that came with the SE, while the GXEs had the VG30E. All VE30DE engines (often referred to as simply "VE") had a timing chan that should last the life of the engine. The VG30E (referred to as a "VG") has a timing belt, with a 60k mile change interval from 89-93.5 (approx). In mid 93 (and from there after) the belt was changed from the 60k square tooth belt to a 105k round tooth belt. By getting a 94 car or replacement engine he meant that you are guaranteed to get the round tooth belt and gears. However swapping the 3 gears takes <$50 and 10 minutes, (once you have removed the covers to change the timing belt) and basically no extra time at all if you remove the 3 gears to replace the cam and cranks seals, which you should be doing since you're already in there. There is no need to remove the motor at all to change to the round (105k) belt so I don't know that we can draw any conclusion from your friends statement.

TonyPa

94 Inch Rims Might Work!......

Thank you VERY much. Thats what I needed was educated on this. I guess I am 160HP for now. WHich is fine.
Got the car back today. Runs great. I need tires.
He stickered it anyhow, but it felt weird in the rain. I will get them next week, then the window regulators. I dread doing the regulators. Otherwise. I am a happy guy! I like this car a lot!!!

TonyPa

Going to order my power window regulators today for my 93/GXE. I wanted to make sure I am ordering the right thing. It seems the motors do work, so I guess I just need the regulators?? I didn't remove the door panels yet. I was told their not too hard to do.
I had to tape the one window up, it wants to fall!

Are these the correct ones? Both my front door windows won't do anything for except the motors make noise, like their working.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/310840998548?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/350993335610?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Yes those are correct. Although you can't find any cheaper? I want to say I got mine WITH new motors for $30 or so. If your motors are good you only need the regulators yes. But again, for regulators only I'd think you could find a better price

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Rock Auto has one side for $9 and the other for $16 right now

TonyPa

Oh I didn't know. I am still learning the prices on the parts for this car. I snuck it out today, but it was too hot out with the windows up. I am truly impressed with the 3.0 in this ride. I am sure it could be tweaked even more. But I am happy so far.

WOW!! Thats much cheaper. I will go there and take a look. Thank you!
I have not had the door panels off yet, I can just hear the motors working. My buddy took the door panels off, and used a coat hanger he said, to keep them from falling down. As cheap as it is, I don't know why he didn't just fix them while apart. ...I dunno...
I can't see how the window would be held onto these regulators. Might make more sense when I get them apart.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Just remember you get what you pay for...

TonyPa

I see rockauto has Dorman. Is that any good? I dont know how high their shipping is though, ya always got to watch with that. on ebay they are 25.00 plus free shipping. I don't know the brand.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Dorman is much higher quality than the no-name stuff you'll find on eBay for more money

TonyPa

Okay, I will stick with Dorman then.

TonyPa

Okay, I was ready to order my window regulators. I am glad I waited.
I just changed my front left caliper, and hose. Both rotors, and new ceramic pads. Right front caliper looked like it was just replaced recently.
Got it all together and bled off. Topped off the fluid.
When I started the car, I noticed the brake light stayed on.
When I stepped on the pedal, I could hear a clicking behind the dash while I was pumping the pedal.
The light finally..... went out, after stepping on it about 10 times, and the clicking noise stopped behind the dash. Never saw that happen on a car before?? What was that???

Anyhow, no more pulling the the right. Felt good, but pedal feels a bit low.
If I pump it once, with the car "off", it comes up to where it should be with one pump. I didn't see a hole for adjusting the rear brakes on the backing plate.
When driving it, it does stop nice, but I hear a metallic noise in the back now. Like a rusty sound during braking, hard to describe.
Started to rain of course. I will pull the backs tomorrow. And if the shoes need replaced and the drums, I can order all through rock auto at one time.
Hopefully this will be it. I hope there is only one size drum for my car, so I get the right ones.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

only time ive seen the brake light acting up like that is when the system wasnt bled enough, clicking behind the dash could have been the PNP switch maybe. try bleeding the system again

its weird you guys got rear drum brakes, 99.9% of Canadian 3rd gens had ABS and rear disc standard. ive seen one with rear drums in my life at the junkyard and it was probably a US car

TonyPa

I was hoping to have rear disc, but I have drums. I honestly was shocked to not see a hole on the backing plate for adjusting the rear shoes??
I don't see how you would adjust them. The self adjusters were always a joke when I was young.
I did hear that clicking noise at first behind the dash towards the center I think, it sounded like a "relay" clicking, every time I pushed the pedal. After about 10 times it did stop. I dunno.
I had straight fluid coming out of the caliper I removed, when done bleeding. I am almost afraid of breaking any other bleeders off, since they look terrible, thanks to our winters here.
Was hoping with changing just that one caliper, that only air needed bled out of that area.
However...After putting on the new caliper, the hose popped a hole, and my son letting go the brake may have put air further into the system, than just the caliper I changed??? I am just guessing.
I do hear the rear drums making a funny noise when in motion going down the road though. Kind of like a rotating rusty scraping noise. If there is no rain tomorrow, I will pull the rears, and if their good, try and open the rest of the bleeders, without breaking any...hopefully!
I wished my garage wasn't tied up. This weather is delaying this whole project.

TonyPa

Okay, I got it!
First, I think this may sound odd.
But that clicking/clinking sound was not behind the dash.
ONLY IN PARK, when I step on the brake pedal, there is a clinking in the shifter handle. You can hear it and feel it right on the shifter handle. "Automatic" tranny.
I know that sounds strange. In neutral and any other gear it does not do it. I have no idea! I know its not the tranny, shifts smooth. Just seems to clink and you can feel it on the shifter handle when you push the brake pedal in Park. I have never ran into that.
On the bright side. I pulled the rear drums. The rear shoes have almost no pad left. Until I order from rock auto tonight. I did adjust them up, and took it for a ride. Nice firm pedal now, and stops perfect. No brake light!!!!
Felt good.
I am replacing the drums too, they look terrible. I hope there are not two different sized drums. I hate shipping stuff back. The shoes are showing two different sizes on rock auto?? Unless I am being stupid.
Shows.......9" X 1-37/64 Or 9 in. x 1.57
The right rear emergency brake cable is broke. I guess thats why the handle does nothing at all?? Left one is okay though.




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James92SE

iTrader: (31)

The click with the brake pedal and park is a standard safety feature. What it's doing when you step on the brake with it in park is it's "releasing" the shifter arm. Meaning it will only let you shift OUT of park if you have your foot on the brake. That's totally normal and pretty much a standard thing on any automatic transmission (regardless of whether or not you can hear it "click")

37/64 = .57 inch

TonyPa

Oh crap. Thank you! I thought there was another issue. Now I feel stupid!
And for the measurements. Now I look even more dumb!
I called auto zone for the heck of it. He said they only showed one size drum after I posted.
They can have everything in a few days, for 100 bucks. Drums, Shoes, Hardware Kit, and right rear e brake cable.
I can't see where that right rear cable goes too. My handle does nothing at all. But the left rear cable is not broke. I dunno....
It was fun to drive though!!! I really like this car!

TonyPa

I ordered my rear brakes and drums from a local NON chain store. Will be here Saturday.
My RIGHT REAR E brake cable is broke snapped off right at the rear shoe. So my handle is pretty much doing nothing at all like there is no e brake at all.
And we have a lot of hills here.
He cannot get cables for me. I seen Rock auto does sale them.
I was going to buy the left and right. Might as well replace both. I figure if I don't, Ya know what will happen. Hope their not a pain to change? They look like they go above the exhaust heat shields.
Its saying for ABS or NON ABS.
I don't know if I have ABS or not??
Also, must be a two piece system? Only shows on rock auto, left and right, no third one going to the handle?
Showing three different right rear ones...Confused....
Sorry for the stupid questions. I wanted to order today. Thanks guys. Have been driving it local, running good!
93 Maxima GXE 3.0 SOHC

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

I would assume that if you have drum brakes, you don't have ABS. But I'm not certain of that.

Easy way to tell though, if you have ABS you will have the ABS setup in your engine bay. It will be in the passenger side front corner, behind the headlight and in front of the wheel well. It'll be a sort of beige colored distribution block deal with a bunch of brake lines running in and out of it. Impossible to miss.

You can see it in this picture I found online

TonyPa

Rear Drum.
no, nothing like that there at all. Just a over flow bottle, and a windshield washer neck.
None of that cluster with all the brake lines. I see what you mean now! Thank you.
I don't understand why they sale so many right rear on rock auto. unless it is just the brands.
I hope this isn't a pain. I didn't have the car high in the air yet. But I can't see where their going to. Looks like they go up above the heat shield.
I was searching on a thread on here. Someone said.... you have to drop the exhaust where the y pipe connects to the cat..??
Mine is all welded together when they put the new flex pipe and Cat on...??? Theres no removing the exahust. I was hoping to slip the heat shields out of the way if possible?




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James92SE

iTrader: (31)

I'm not really sure what you're asking. Are you asking about the routing for the parking brake cables?

If I remember correctly, they follow right under the "tunnel" from behind the center console area (above the exhaust piping), then straight back to directly in front of the gas tank. From the gas tank, they split out around both sides of the front of the gas tank and then to each wheel.

They're not very complicated

And yes you can remove the heat shielding without dropping the exhaust. I've done it many times.

TonyPa

Thank you, sorry for the confusion. Yeah, thats what I was asking. I didn't want to drop my exhaust. It is welded in a few spots with the new flex pipe, converter....etc.
I was hoping to be able to do it without removing the exhaust.
Maybe I can get the heat shields out without removing the exhaust. I am going to order the left and right, so I can do both. I don't know what or if there is a third one, like at the front, that connects to the both rears. I haven't seen up in there yet.
Sorry for being annoying. I am trying to get all the maintenance stuff done first. Before I have fun.


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James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Both cables run directly to the handle. There is no third cable

TonyPa

Oh okay. I will get it up in the air as much as possible. I can't get my car in the garage right now. I have to work in the gravel...
I will see if I have to remove the console also, to get to the adjustment.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Yes you will need to remove the center console. That's super easy though. There are two Phillips screws that attach it at the front sides and also two at the back.

There are two little bolts that hold it down under the e-brake handle. Pop off that cover and I want to say they're 10mm, but they might be 8mm bolts.

Once you have all that off you can lift the whole thing up and out (must pull the e-brake handle up). Very easy