Please help guys...
#41
Fuel smell is probably the common vent hose crack. It's right behind the driver back wheel, the rubber vent hose about a foot long, it routes over the rear subframe. Very common and not a difficult or time consuming fix. Just need about a foot long section of new hose for it.
Sounds like you lucked out on the struts. If you can somehow get away with not doing them (ie, can you start the inspection over again at a different shop?) then I wouldn't bother with them
Sounds like you lucked out on the struts. If you can somehow get away with not doing them (ie, can you start the inspection over again at a different shop?) then I wouldn't bother with them
My guy will just sticker the car for me to be honest with you. He knows I used to do inspections, and go over the car first.
I did just call my buddy and asked who told him the struts were bad.
I will check to see if the struts are leaking. But it sure handles nice.
He said Firestone!!!!!! I don't know why he is taking it to a chain store. I am sorry if someone works there on this forum, but the one near me tries to sale you everything they can!
I also asked what oil he was running. He said 10W/30. I better check the owners manual, I thought they were 5W/30, but I may be wrong.
Last edited by TonyPa; 06-15-2015 at 07:29 PM.
#43
Now that made me paranoid.
I know oil is always a big debate, so I never like to bring up that topic...
#44
True on the oil debate lol. I can't speak for other 3rd gens but i've been using synthetic (Amsoil signature series 5w30) for years now with no leaks or issues but then again thats just me.
#45
I was just using Castrol Synthetic on mine, since I could buy it local. I am messing around online right now, looking for body kits, Cold Air Intakes...etc. I think I might want to have fun with this car since the miles are somewhat low.
#46
synthetic and regular oil have a different molecular structure, synthetic in some 1970s and older stuff can cause leaks because of it but mid 80s and newer stuff it shouldnt. i ran Castrol 5w-30 synthetic in my 3rd gen with no problem and even my old 70s and 80s vehicles run synthetic without issue. my 88 D21 was on synthetic and never leaked a single drop of any fluid til the day it died
#47
synthetic and regular oil have a different molecular structure, synthetic in some 1970s and older stuff can cause leaks because of it but mid 80s and newer stuff it shouldnt. i ran Castrol 5w-30 synthetic in my 3rd gen with no problem and even my old 70s and 80s vehicles run synthetic without issue. my 88 D21 was on synthetic and never leaked a single drop of any fluid til the day it died
#48
If your interested i have some sets of clear corners new in the box. As for a body kit i believe there is a member selling a stillen body kit in the classifieds.
#49
I did read a thread on here, where the 3rd gen is shrinking. Bummer, I just got into it!..
#50
Thank you for offering. I will be in the market for goodies soon. I still have to do my exhaust, timing belt, all the maintenance stuff first. I am glad to see they sale stuff for the 3rd gen still.
I did read a thread on here, where the 3rd gen is shrinking. Bummer, I just got into it!..
I did read a thread on here, where the 3rd gen is shrinking. Bummer, I just got into it!..
#51
Thank you for offering. I will be in the market for goodies soon. I still have to do my exhaust, timing belt, all the maintenance stuff first. I am glad to see they sale stuff for the 3rd gen still.
I did read a thread on here, where the 3rd gen is shrinking. Bummer, I just got into it!..
I did read a thread on here, where the 3rd gen is shrinking. Bummer, I just got into it!..
#52
Well.....CRAP!!! I am gonna drop my car off this weekend, and their going to do the timing belt on Monday.
My buddy works for a parts store, so he got me the belt kit. He gets a discount.
Belt, Tensioner, Pump, And a thermostat.
Well, here's the issue.
I have no idea on my 93...3.0 SOHC GXE model.....what belt I have.
He said there was either a rounded tooth, or square tooth.
He got me the rounded tooth, because his manager said that was more common. I dunno, he works for a parts store, not Nissan.
I wished there was a way to peak in there, before dropping the car off.
Is there a way I can peak in there, without removing a lot of stuff??
And will it be evident if it is round or square. I haven't seen the belt yet, I am picking it up tomorrow from my buddy.
.
My buddy works for a parts store, so he got me the belt kit. He gets a discount.
Belt, Tensioner, Pump, And a thermostat.
Well, here's the issue.
I have no idea on my 93...3.0 SOHC GXE model.....what belt I have.
He said there was either a rounded tooth, or square tooth.
He got me the rounded tooth, because his manager said that was more common. I dunno, he works for a parts store, not Nissan.
I wished there was a way to peak in there, before dropping the car off.
Is there a way I can peak in there, without removing a lot of stuff??
And will it be evident if it is round or square. I haven't seen the belt yet, I am picking it up tomorrow from my buddy.
.
Last edited by TonyPa; 06-18-2015 at 07:50 PM.
#54
Oh, that would be great! I will try and see if there is a way tomorrow to peak in there. Too dark out now. He said it called for either one and so did rock auto. Is confusing.
Last edited by TonyPa; 06-18-2015 at 08:22 PM.
#56
#57
I just noticed I said "ptobably" above. For some reason my phone is changing probably to ptobably
And yeah, your car probably is square tooth as I assume that by July 93, Nissan was likely already building 1994 models.
And yeah, your car probably is square tooth as I assume that by July 93, Nissan was likely already building 1994 models.
#58
Crap. He probably got me the wrong belt. I will check my door date tomorrow. Ugh!!
#59
Sounds like your phone has a drunken spell check lol
#62
I looked, there is no easy way of getting the top cover off easily. I only see one bolt. The rest are buried.
I gave the dealer my last 8 digits of my vin. He just said, "He thinks round tooth".
He said the part number kept changing. But it is coming back to part number:
A1302885E86....He left the A out first, and said...wait it changed again to an A at the beginning. He was confusing me.
He said that shows round tooth, but he sounded like he was getting confused because they kept changing the part number as time went on.
But he stated, if he would have to order it according to my Vin, it would be a round tooth. I guess my buddy may have got the the right one. I think....However.....
I tried to look that part number up online, I see a Dayco cross reference. DAYCO 95104, thats with taking the A out of the beginning. Or maybe I shouldn't remove the A from the beginning since he said that added it on. He stated they added the A to the number on my car later on, I am confused. Looks like a square tooth to me.
I may be looking it up wrong....
.
Last edited by TonyPa; 06-19-2015 at 05:57 AM.
#63
Okay, I checked my door sticker. it is 6/93. I guess that means square tooth?
I looked, there is no easy way of getting the top cover off easily. I only see one bolt. The rest are buried.
I gave the dealer my last 8 digits of my vin. He just said, "He thinks round tooth".
He said the part number kept changing. But it is coming back to part number:
A1302885E86....He left the A out first, and said...wait it changed again to an A at the beginning. He was confusing me.
He said that shows round tooth, but he sounded like he was getting confused because they kept changing the part number as time went on.
But he stated, if he would have to order it according to my Vin, it would be a round tooth. I guess my buddy may have got the the right one. I think....However.....
I tried to look that part number up online, I see a Dayco cross reference. DAYCO 95104, thats with taking the A out of the beginning. Or maybe I shouldn't remove the A from the beginning since he said that added it on. He stated they added the A to the number on my car later on, I am confused. Looks like a square tooth to me.
I may be looking it up wrong....
.
I looked, there is no easy way of getting the top cover off easily. I only see one bolt. The rest are buried.
I gave the dealer my last 8 digits of my vin. He just said, "He thinks round tooth".
He said the part number kept changing. But it is coming back to part number:
A1302885E86....He left the A out first, and said...wait it changed again to an A at the beginning. He was confusing me.
He said that shows round tooth, but he sounded like he was getting confused because they kept changing the part number as time went on.
But he stated, if he would have to order it according to my Vin, it would be a round tooth. I guess my buddy may have got the the right one. I think....However.....
I tried to look that part number up online, I see a Dayco cross reference. DAYCO 95104, thats with taking the A out of the beginning. Or maybe I shouldn't remove the A from the beginning since he said that added it on. He stated they added the A to the number on my car later on, I am confused. Looks like a square tooth to me.
I may be looking it up wrong....
.
There's almost certainly no way you have any access to "peek into" the timing area to see the belt. I've never worked on a VG, but I'd be surprised if it had a removable plastic timing cover like Honda engines or anything which would let you see the belt.
I also think you're making this too hard. Do you live in the boonies or something? If not, I don't understand why you can't just order both kits as already mentioned and return the one you don't need. Unless you live in the middle of nowhere, any chain parts store should be able to get the kit for you later the same day even if they don't have it in stock at their physical location.
#65
You already have the kit so the tensioner etc. As well as your water pump will be fine. Just save yourself the hassle and racking your brain if its confusing you and taking that much of your time running around researching and just pick up a square tooth and bring back whichever belt you don't need. Probably less time than what your spending confusing yourself lol atleast when it's done you'll know for next time
#66
You already have the kit so the tensioner etc. As well as your water pump will be fine. Just save yourself the hassle and racking your brain if its confusing you and taking that much of your time running around researching and just pick up a square tooth and bring back whichever belt you don't need. Probably less time than what your spending confusing yourself lol atleast when it's done you'll know for next time
Especially since he's right in that cut-off range. If you do some brief searching, you'll see that in old online mentions, there are mentions of both types of belts being found on cars produced in that summer 1993 production range despite Nissan's official production listings of 6/93 and 7/93.
Either way, entirely too much work/effort/worry. Just get his buddy to grab both kits and return the unnecessary one.
#67
He got me the round tooth..
On fast "stupid" question. I was going to call local and just get the "belt", since I have the kit already. And get the square tooth belt. Just in case.
Will the tensioner matter with the round tooth kit, or are they smooth? If that made sense?
Or do I need the whole other kit for various reasons, from switching teeth styles?
On fast "stupid" question. I was going to call local and just get the "belt", since I have the kit already. And get the square tooth belt. Just in case.
Will the tensioner matter with the round tooth kit, or are they smooth? If that made sense?
Or do I need the whole other kit for various reasons, from switching teeth styles?
#68
On fast "stupid" question. I was going to call local and just get the "belt", since I have the kit already. And get the square tooth belt. Just in case.
Will the tensioner matter with the round tooth kit, or are they smooth? If that made sense?
Or do I need the whole other kit for various reasons, from switching teeth styles?
Will the tensioner matter with the round tooth kit, or are they smooth? If that made sense?
Or do I need the whole other kit for various reasons, from switching teeth styles?
*edit* actually - if your kit is JUST the belt and tensioner you should be good. I was thinking the VG had a timing belt driven water pump you'd be replacing, but the tensioner is smooth and shouldn't matter if we're talking JUST belt and tensioner.
Last edited by James92SE; 06-19-2015 at 08:03 AM.
#69
Okay, I will order the other kit,,,"square tooth" today. Should have it Monday. Just to be safe! Thanks. I am used to doing my own work, but this job I don't wanna do.
#70
#71
I assume you need the whole other kit. The groove profiles on the gears are surely different, hence the belt difference.
*edit* actually - if your kit is JUST the belt and tensioner you should be good. I was thinking the VG had a timing belt driven water pump you'd be replacing, but the tensioner is smooth and shouldn't matter if we're talking JUST belt and tensioner.
*edit* actually - if your kit is JUST the belt and tensioner you should be good. I was thinking the VG had a timing belt driven water pump you'd be replacing, but the tensioner is smooth and shouldn't matter if we're talking JUST belt and tensioner.
I didn't see this until now, and called Advance, they only show a round tooth kit. Ugh. I called a local NON chain store, and he said he shows round tooth. But he cannot get the kit, only the square belt. This is kind of wacky. i should drop the car off with the round tooth kit, and just let them deal with it, and if it is square tooth, then they can order it, and I will return my buddies kit.
I told them guys both stores....6/93
Also. I don't know what this VG stuff means. I am still learning Nissan. I wanted one, since so many people love the dependability of the car. And the power.
.
Last edited by TonyPa; 06-19-2015 at 11:44 AM.
#73
I wanna drive it!!!!! Although I need to do the brakes, low pedal, slight grinding noise.
Exhaust, I think thats all. Then time to do the fun stuff.
#74
I just called my mechanic, well sort of. I dont use one often. He said just drop it off Tuesday, and if it is the square tooth, he will deal with it, and swap it out. He deals with that parts store.
I wanna drive it!!!!! Although I need to do the brakes, low pedal, slight grinding noise.
Exhaust, I think thats all. Then time to do the fun stuff.
I wanna drive it!!!!! Although I need to do the brakes, low pedal, slight grinding noise.
Exhaust, I think thats all. Then time to do the fun stuff.
#75
Yeah, probably brakes, rotors, I think the left caliper is hanging up, since it pulls the the right when braking. Thats all easy stuff there. I truly like this car. I got to drive it home, but was very easy on it. The timing belt, If it was supposed to be changed at 60K, is way over due at 93K. I will know when I see what teeth I have for the next interval on mileage.
I won't ever really hit it hard. I have read these trannys are not the strongest in mine....
#76
Okay, timing belt, tensioner, water pump, thermostat..whole kit all installed. Mine was a round tooth. That was odd for a 6/93.
I looked at the old belt. He saves my parts all the time. It looked wore, but still decent shape oddly.
He fixed the steel fuel lines, and exhaust also, was the flex pipe. Everything for 600 bucks. Runs great, however...
He does state inspection, but farms out the emissions.
He ran it over for the emissions today, and it failed. Converter, and 02 Sensor.
He told me 250.00 for both done and installed. I asked him if is still fails emissions, he said they will put a waiver on it then. I dunno. Guess either way I am good.
He drove it to the emissions, and said the car drives amazing, and being it only has 92K on it, and the way I take care of cars, it should last a long time. He seems to really like these Nissans, and said their extremely dependable.
They should have it done tomorrow. Waiting on the Cat.
Beings I have the "round tooth", isn't that the 100,000 mile interval maintenance time for it?
I think the square tooth is 60K? Hope I am right!
After this, I just have to fix the front window regulators. The motors work, but the windows don't go up and down. Must be it. I seen them on ebay cheap. Hope their not a pain to do. Almost there.
I looked at the old belt. He saves my parts all the time. It looked wore, but still decent shape oddly.
He fixed the steel fuel lines, and exhaust also, was the flex pipe. Everything for 600 bucks. Runs great, however...
He does state inspection, but farms out the emissions.
He ran it over for the emissions today, and it failed. Converter, and 02 Sensor.
He told me 250.00 for both done and installed. I asked him if is still fails emissions, he said they will put a waiver on it then. I dunno. Guess either way I am good.
He drove it to the emissions, and said the car drives amazing, and being it only has 92K on it, and the way I take care of cars, it should last a long time. He seems to really like these Nissans, and said their extremely dependable.
They should have it done tomorrow. Waiting on the Cat.
Beings I have the "round tooth", isn't that the 100,000 mile interval maintenance time for it?
I think the square tooth is 60K? Hope I am right!
After this, I just have to fix the front window regulators. The motors work, but the windows don't go up and down. Must be it. I seen them on ebay cheap. Hope their not a pain to do. Almost there.
#77
So your 6/93 production date was round tooth. Seems to confirm that even though Nissan officially says 6/93 is square, and 7/93 is round, that in reality it seems like it's a crapshoot for VG's produced in the summer of 93
But anyway, just because a timing belt looks fine doesn't mean you want to risk using it longer than its service interval. You did the smart thing in replacing it.
$250 for a cat and an 02, installed, is a good price. The aftermarket bolt-on cats are about $100 by themselves. Although, if he just welds in one that should be cheaper on him. Not any less effective though.
Yes, your timing belt is good for the longer interval now. I'm not sure if it's 100k exactly, thought it was 90k, but either way you don't have to worry about it for a long time.
But anyway, just because a timing belt looks fine doesn't mean you want to risk using it longer than its service interval. You did the smart thing in replacing it.
$250 for a cat and an 02, installed, is a good price. The aftermarket bolt-on cats are about $100 by themselves. Although, if he just welds in one that should be cheaper on him. Not any less effective though.
Yes, your timing belt is good for the longer interval now. I'm not sure if it's 100k exactly, thought it was 90k, but either way you don't have to worry about it for a long time.
#78
It could have had the motor swapped to a later motor or perhaps the previous owner upgraded the cam and crank pulleys to the round tooth one like I did on my 91. The change interval for the round tooth belt is actually 105k making the conversion well worth it (~$50 and since you should remove the cam and crank gears to change the seals, virtually no extra work). My buddy and I both have Quests which are non-interference so we decided to see how long the belts last. Mines still going with ~120k miles on it and I believe his broke right before 130k (~128k I think). Don't push the limit on ANY other VG as the Quest (and Mercury Villager) are the ONLY non interference VG motors made.
#80
So your 6/93 production date was round tooth. Seems to confirm that even though Nissan officially says 6/93 is square, and 7/93 is round, that in reality it seems like it's a crapshoot for VG's produced in the summer of 93
But anyway, just because a timing belt looks fine doesn't mean you want to risk using it longer than its service interval. You did the smart thing in replacing it.
$250 for a cat and an 02, installed, is a good price. The aftermarket bolt-on cats are about $100 by themselves. Although, if he just welds in one that should be cheaper on him. Not any less effective though.
Yes, your timing belt is good for the longer interval now. I'm not sure if it's 100k exactly, thought it was 90k, but either way you don't have to worry about it for a long time.
But anyway, just because a timing belt looks fine doesn't mean you want to risk using it longer than its service interval. You did the smart thing in replacing it.
$250 for a cat and an 02, installed, is a good price. The aftermarket bolt-on cats are about $100 by themselves. Although, if he just welds in one that should be cheaper on him. Not any less effective though.
Yes, your timing belt is good for the longer interval now. I'm not sure if it's 100k exactly, thought it was 90k, but either way you don't have to worry about it for a long time.
I guess 92K is low? LOL
I don't know what VG I have? I see this term used a lot on here from looking around. Is that the style of motor? Is one better than the other. I checked my year. Seems I have a 170HP, unless I am wrong.
It could have had the motor swapped to a later motor or perhaps the previous owner upgraded the cam and crank pulleys to the round tooth one like I did on my 91. The change interval for the round tooth belt is actually 105k making the conversion well worth it (~$50 and since you should remove the cam and crank gears to change the seals, virtually no extra work). My buddy and I both have Quests which are non-interference so we decided to see how long the belts last. Mines still going with ~120k miles on it and I believe his broke right before 130k (~128k I think). Don't push the limit on ANY other VG as the Quest (and Mercury Villager) are the ONLY non interference VG motors made.
I don't know what you mean by getting 94's? Sorry, I am still new to this car.