Cracked Dash Pad Removal
#1
Cracked Dash Pad Removal
I found threads for the front part, but i need info for the top part, where the sun hits it.
Found a clean non cracked same color dash at the junkyard yesterday and got the dash cluster and the clock off but i don't know what/where else to remove to get the dashpad off.
Is it just screws and more screws or am i missing something?
Also i'm p sure, but 89 dash and 92 dash are the same, no? I know the face/radio area has differences, but the top part of the dash is the same right?
Found a clean non cracked same color dash at the junkyard yesterday and got the dash cluster and the clock off but i don't know what/where else to remove to get the dashpad off.
Is it just screws and more screws or am i missing something?
Also i'm p sure, but 89 dash and 92 dash are the same, no? I know the face/radio area has differences, but the top part of the dash is the same right?
#2
Yes the dashboards are the same. Unfortunately, you won't exactly be removing the dash "pad" - you will be removing the entire dashboard itself. The dashboards are the same for all 3rd gens, only difference is the radio cut-out area 89/91 to 92/94 and that is only a trim piece not the actual dash itself and it's a fairly big job.
To pull the dash, in addition to the gauge cluster and clock, you need to remove the entire HVAC/radio trim area. You will need to remove that panel under the steering wheel and that panel that is under the gauge cluster that has the foglight and cruise control switches etc. You will need to get the center console out of the way - you don't have to remove it entirely, but unscrew the screws so you can slide it back and push it up out of your way between the seats.
You'll need to unscrew the HVAC control unit so that it can be kind of pushed inward/down and out of the way. You'll need to remove the glovebox and the panel behind/below it. The entire center stack part needs to be removed (this is the entire plastic center piece that the radio/HVAC stuff sets in) too.
You'll need to remove the defrost vents that span the top of the dashboard right near the glass. Be very careful as these are brittle and if you've found un-damaged ones you'll be very liable to break them and then curse yourself. There's a black plastic piece in the middle. Pop that up. Then the vents on each side need to be slid (gently) toward the middle of the dash about an inch. Then those will come out. After those are out there are 3 (IIRC) screws that hold the top of the dash in.
After you have all that other crap removed, you need to unscrew/unbolt a few spots on the sides of the dash (fuse box area, and same area on the passenger side) and the dash will basically be free.
The wiring harness for the clock and whatnot is pressed in with little metal clips that just shove into little columns. You can remove them by just pulling on the little metal clips.
I may be forgetting a few things but by and large this should cover anything. I've pulled/swapped dashes probably 10 times over the years and have gotten really good at it, but can't picture everything in my head at the moment. IIRC you also have to drop the steering column to physically get the dash out which is pretty frustrating and annoying.
To pull the dash, in addition to the gauge cluster and clock, you need to remove the entire HVAC/radio trim area. You will need to remove that panel under the steering wheel and that panel that is under the gauge cluster that has the foglight and cruise control switches etc. You will need to get the center console out of the way - you don't have to remove it entirely, but unscrew the screws so you can slide it back and push it up out of your way between the seats.
You'll need to unscrew the HVAC control unit so that it can be kind of pushed inward/down and out of the way. You'll need to remove the glovebox and the panel behind/below it. The entire center stack part needs to be removed (this is the entire plastic center piece that the radio/HVAC stuff sets in) too.
You'll need to remove the defrost vents that span the top of the dashboard right near the glass. Be very careful as these are brittle and if you've found un-damaged ones you'll be very liable to break them and then curse yourself. There's a black plastic piece in the middle. Pop that up. Then the vents on each side need to be slid (gently) toward the middle of the dash about an inch. Then those will come out. After those are out there are 3 (IIRC) screws that hold the top of the dash in.
After you have all that other crap removed, you need to unscrew/unbolt a few spots on the sides of the dash (fuse box area, and same area on the passenger side) and the dash will basically be free.
The wiring harness for the clock and whatnot is pressed in with little metal clips that just shove into little columns. You can remove them by just pulling on the little metal clips.
I may be forgetting a few things but by and large this should cover anything. I've pulled/swapped dashes probably 10 times over the years and have gotten really good at it, but can't picture everything in my head at the moment. IIRC you also have to drop the steering column to physically get the dash out which is pretty frustrating and annoying.
#4
If they're anything like the nickel-and-diming Pick N Pull locations here they will absolutely charge you for the "dash complete". The problem is that these are open to interpretation and you are stuck being at the mercy of the subjective interpretation of the moron working the register. And at Pick N Pull in DFW they of course go with the more expensive option every single time.
To me, a "bare" dash would be the entire dash sans all extra crap like cluster/gauges/glove box/etc.
The "pad" should be fairly obvious as only some older cars have actual dash pads. Most modern cars do not use such a set-up and so it's moot.
Then a "dash complete" would to me be the ENTIRE thing. The full dashboard including glove box/cluster/gauges/everything.
But that's just my interpretation. Regardless, you'll come out much better than I would at PNP. PNP lists a "dash assy complete (no radio)" for $78. Sounds pretty straight forward right? But I guarantee you, they charge the $78, and then they count up every single vent on the dash and tack those individual prices on. And then they also charge you for the cluster bezel, or anything else they can find to charge you for. You'd be lucky to come out of there for less than $200.
They do this on everything else they sell too. Engines, door assemblies, headlight assemblies - everything. They charge you for the highest "complete assembly" price and then ALSO charge individually for every single component piece that comprises the "assembly". It's infuriating.
To me, a "bare" dash would be the entire dash sans all extra crap like cluster/gauges/glove box/etc.
The "pad" should be fairly obvious as only some older cars have actual dash pads. Most modern cars do not use such a set-up and so it's moot.
Then a "dash complete" would to me be the ENTIRE thing. The full dashboard including glove box/cluster/gauges/everything.
But that's just my interpretation. Regardless, you'll come out much better than I would at PNP. PNP lists a "dash assy complete (no radio)" for $78. Sounds pretty straight forward right? But I guarantee you, they charge the $78, and then they count up every single vent on the dash and tack those individual prices on. And then they also charge you for the cluster bezel, or anything else they can find to charge you for. You'd be lucky to come out of there for less than $200.
They do this on everything else they sell too. Engines, door assemblies, headlight assemblies - everything. They charge you for the highest "complete assembly" price and then ALSO charge individually for every single component piece that comprises the "assembly". It's infuriating.
#7
Ive gotten more than 1 dashboard from a pick n pull for only $30..?
there could also be another slight difference depending on whether the 92 has an airbag or not. the steering wheel tilt lever is different between airbag and non-airbag models. it is the same difference thats noticed between "89-91 and 92-94" button surround pieces. i put it in quotes because thats how theyve always been described, but really the difference is airbag and non-airbag, as my 92non airbag has whats known as the "89-91" surround. One of the dashes I removed was a serious PITA because after getting all the bolts out I was dealing with this part of the dash, just slightly different but was just a huge hangup, harder to get it over top of the steering column or something im not sure.
there could also be another slight difference depending on whether the 92 has an airbag or not. the steering wheel tilt lever is different between airbag and non-airbag models. it is the same difference thats noticed between "89-91 and 92-94" button surround pieces. i put it in quotes because thats how theyve always been described, but really the difference is airbag and non-airbag, as my 92non airbag has whats known as the "89-91" surround. One of the dashes I removed was a serious PITA because after getting all the bolts out I was dealing with this part of the dash, just slightly different but was just a huge hangup, harder to get it over top of the steering column or something im not sure.
#8
Ive gotten more than 1 dashboard from a pick n pull for only $30..?
there could also be another slight difference depending on whether the 92 has an airbag or not. the steering wheel tilt lever is different between airbag and non-airbag models. it is the same difference thats noticed between "89-91 and 92-94" button surround pieces. i put it in quotes because thats how theyve always been described, but really the difference is airbag and non-airbag, as my 92non airbag has whats known as the "89-91" surround. One of the dashes I removed was a serious PITA because after getting all the bolts out I was dealing with this part of the dash, just slightly different but was just a huge hangup, harder to get it over top of the steering column or something im not sure.
there could also be another slight difference depending on whether the 92 has an airbag or not. the steering wheel tilt lever is different between airbag and non-airbag models. it is the same difference thats noticed between "89-91 and 92-94" button surround pieces. i put it in quotes because thats how theyve always been described, but really the difference is airbag and non-airbag, as my 92non airbag has whats known as the "89-91" surround. One of the dashes I removed was a serious PITA because after getting all the bolts out I was dealing with this part of the dash, just slightly different but was just a huge hangup, harder to get it over top of the steering column or something im not sure.
I frequent every DFW PNP yard and the only one that actually consistently honors their prices is the Ft. Worth location. Problem is that's so far from me and the yard is TINY so not much incentive to go out there. By far the worst ones are 2nd Avenue in Dallas and the one on 310 in Dallas and those unfortunately are the ones I frequent the most due to proximity.
If your 92 non-airbag model had the 89-91 radio surround, it had to have been replaced at some point in its life. The model years 89-91 and 92-94 are the sole differentiator on the radio surround design. How long have you had that car? I wonder why it was replaced. I've always thought the 89-91 surround was quite ugly and if I personally had ever owned an 89-91 I definitely would've converted. Only difference is the trim panel and the radio brackets as I'm sure you know. My original 92 SE had no airbag and the updated radio surround design.
I've always had trouble getting the dash out/over the steering column on both non-airbag and airbag models, which is why I always just drop the steering columns as a rule.
I wonder how the OP turned out. Thankfully it's still cool. Pulling a dashboard in the middle of the yard with no shade in the summer is a majorly un-fun task
#10
Call ahead of time and ask what the difference is between "dash pad" and "dash complete". They can't tell you "dash complete" means anything less than a dash with everything. Which means they are left saying that a "dash pad" is only the bare dash piece. Confirm this is what they are saying, ask their name and go get it. Get it from the yard and bring it to the counter, mention the phone call and the person you spoke to if they try to ring it up as a complete dash.
#11
I tried to call them but their answering system is so jacked.
"If you are trying to sell your car press 1"
"If you are wondering about part prices and inventory, visit our website"
".........Press star to repeat these options."
And HOLY CRAP that thing is really on there. I'm still working on getting it off, even though i'm anticipating them wanting the 75 just cause of how thick the dash is. I see what you mean now James92 about how it's not just the padding, it's the whole dash. lol
"If you are trying to sell your car press 1"
"If you are wondering about part prices and inventory, visit our website"
".........Press star to repeat these options."
And HOLY CRAP that thing is really on there. I'm still working on getting it off, even though i'm anticipating them wanting the 75 just cause of how thick the dash is. I see what you mean now James92 about how it's not just the padding, it's the whole dash. lol
#12
Call ahead of time and ask what the difference is between "dash pad" and "dash complete". They can't tell you "dash complete" means anything less than a dash with everything. Which means they are left saying that a "dash pad" is only the bare dash piece. Confirm this is what they are saying, ask their name and go get it. Get it from the yard and bring it to the counter, mention the phone call and the person you spoke to if they try to ring it up as a complete dash.
I'm telling you, you would be shocked at the world of difference in terms of the niceness/customer service/everything between here and there.
But it's not even that they try to pull a fast-one on you. They're blatant about it. They could have a price listing for "Fender, black in color - $15" and another listing for "Fender, white in color - $200". You can take them a black fender and when you go to pay they will charge you $200 for a white fender. And you will sit there and argue with them whether or not it's a black or white fender. It's that outrageous and mind-boggling.
Are you THAT guy who breaks a bunch of good stuff to get the part he wants? I see the radio trim surround is bent down/broken out and I assume that was done when the clock/cluster trim was pulled out. For future reference, the shifter surround panel needs to pop off FIRST. Then the HVAC trim needs to be removed (need to pull out the ash tray), and THEN the clock/cluster trim can be removed.
#13
Hahaa busted.. That was the only part i broke; mostly out of frustration. (the trunk was locked too, i kinda broke that also)..
But besides that i've been treating this thing like my own car! I actually wanna give up on this dash but i feel like too many people have seen this thread so i gotta deliver.
OFF AGAIN FOR DAY THREE!
But besides that i've been treating this thing like my own car! I actually wanna give up on this dash but i feel like too many people have seen this thread so i gotta deliver.
OFF AGAIN FOR DAY THREE!
#14
The worst is when you get 3/4 's of the way through pulling a part only to realize you didn't bring a tool you needed or even to go back and find after all that work someone else finished the job and took the part you were working on getting lol. Patients and determination Ray and im sure you'll get it off of there. The bright side is if you haven't pulled a dash your learning on a scrap car and if you break a piece atleast you'll learn the process so when you take yours out you don't break your own trim and it won't be as frustrating. They say 3rd times a charm so i have faith your going to get that dash out this time By the way that steering wheel cover looks pretty pimp maybe if theyre gouging you for the dash they'll throw it in to sweeten the deal lol.
Last edited by ac max 92; 02-26-2016 at 09:46 AM.
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