still stuck on boost (another thread that will never die)
02-05-2002, 12:26 PM
#41
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 23
Originally posted by mykizism
I dont understand.. what do you mean by the car pushed much worse?
Do you mean taking off from a dead stop?
or during cornering?
but if it wasnt the foam that caused this, what was the cause of the feelings of the car
I dont understand.. what do you mean by the car pushed much worse?
Do you mean taking off from a dead stop?
or during cornering?
but if it wasnt the foam that caused this, what was the cause of the feelings of the car
I removed the ST front swaybar and the balance is back the way is was, plus traction and ride are better.
I hope that makes better sense.
MK
02-06-2002, 02:25 AM
#42
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 1,030
Originally posted by j30_vg30et
The foam increased the stiffness of the cars chassis. This is independent of the suspension stiffness. Presumably, since the chassis isn't twisting and wiggling, the suspension works differently now resulting in understeer.
I removed the ST front swaybar and the balance is back the way is was, plus traction and ride are better.
I hope that makes better sense.
MK
The foam increased the stiffness of the cars chassis. This is independent of the suspension stiffness. Presumably, since the chassis isn't twisting and wiggling, the suspension works differently now resulting in understeer.
I removed the ST front swaybar and the balance is back the way is was, plus traction and ride are better.
I hope that makes better sense.
MK
02-06-2002, 09:52 AM
#43
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 23
I put the stock front swaybar back on, using the urethane bushings. The rear still has the ST bar.
In my case, the ST front swaybar would unload the inside tire too much while cornering, and cause extra wheelspin. It also increased ride harshness quite a bit over single wheel bumps and potholes.
Unfortunately the car wanders much more now that the ST bar is off.
In my opinion a stiff chassis (frame of the car) is good. This has nothing to do with the stiffnes (or frequency) of the suspension (the part the connects the wheels to the chassis). I personally like a softer suspension with lots of travel (and damping). Which means I need to make some coil-overs.
MK
In my case, the ST front swaybar would unload the inside tire too much while cornering, and cause extra wheelspin. It also increased ride harshness quite a bit over single wheel bumps and potholes.
Unfortunately the car wanders much more now that the ST bar is off.
In my opinion a stiff chassis (frame of the car) is good. This has nothing to do with the stiffnes (or frequency) of the suspension (the part the connects the wheels to the chassis). I personally like a softer suspension with lots of travel (and damping). Which means I need to make some coil-overs.
MK
02-06-2002, 11:23 AM
#44
Mmmm glad I have LSD. 
with the subframes, ST sways, FSTB, Tokicos, Eibachs.. the car handles pretty much neutral, except when I'm trying to get ont he gas out of the corners.. BOTH front wheels spin in my case, and I just end up going straight..
I'm sure a lot of that can be cured by simply changing my driving style though (easier on the gas coming out of corners). also possibly changing to the SE sway bar up front might do some good, as the car is VERY flat on the corners. I'll play with that once the turbo is on and see where that goes.
Also Jeff didn't kill his engine.. engine's fine. the turbo he used was an original T3 from a Z31 (same setup I'll be running at first), and the turbo itself lost the oil seals in it and became a James Bond type smokescreen.. so he pulled it and had it rebuilt. no big deal there. 13+ year old turbos are allowed to blow a ring someday.
with the subframes, ST sways, FSTB, Tokicos, Eibachs.. the car handles pretty much neutral, except when I'm trying to get ont he gas out of the corners.. BOTH front wheels spin in my case, and I just end up going straight..
I'm sure a lot of that can be cured by simply changing my driving style though (easier on the gas coming out of corners). also possibly changing to the SE sway bar up front might do some good, as the car is VERY flat on the corners. I'll play with that once the turbo is on and see where that goes.
Also Jeff didn't kill his engine.. engine's fine. the turbo he used was an original T3 from a Z31 (same setup I'll be running at first), and the turbo itself lost the oil seals in it and became a James Bond type smokescreen.. so he pulled it and had it rebuilt. no big deal there. 13+ year old turbos are allowed to blow a ring someday.
02-12-2002, 05:20 AM
#45
Originally posted by flyry110
i was hanging out with a guy last night from i think taiwan. . .anyway, he has a skyline and some of his buddies have Z motors in their maximas. . . .
i was hanging out with a guy last night from i think taiwan. . .anyway, he has a skyline and some of his buddies have Z motors in their maximas. . . .
03-13-2002, 09:03 AM
#48
Originally posted by Dummy
is the compression exactly 10.0:1 ?
__________________
Please do not tell me to use the search function! cause chances are, if i am asking..i probably
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is the compression exactly 10.0:1 ?
__________________
Please do not tell me to use the search function! cause chances are, if i am asking..i probably
already have!
#2. 10.0:1 is close enough for whatever you're doing. incredibly specific numbers won't change your requirements much.. it's pretty close to that, not much farther off than .1.. and it varies with each engine's condition.... some have higher compression because the cylinders are full of carbon deposits..
03-14-2002, 08:43 AM
#50
Originally posted by Dummy
thanks, i knew it was 10:1 just making sure it was 10.0:1
thanks, i knew it was 10:1 just making sure it was 10.0:1
you just answered your own question.
03-15-2002, 11:30 AM
#52
Re: Re: still stuck on boost
Originally posted by j30_vg30et
You don't need pistons. Leave the engine together. It seems most of the time when people take a japanese engine apart, it goes back together way worse than it started.
Run a good turbo, not some crap from the junk yard. Big injectors, fuel pump, intercooler and exhaust. Finally, have a JWT ecu done up.
I'm running 15psi on 91 pump with a bone stock VG and no problems.
MK
You don't need pistons. Leave the engine together. It seems most of the time when people take a japanese engine apart, it goes back together way worse than it started.
Run a good turbo, not some crap from the junk yard. Big injectors, fuel pump, intercooler and exhaust. Finally, have a JWT ecu done up.
I'm running 15psi on 91 pump with a bone stock VG and no problems.
MK
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