#81250 front with adjustment up to 1.75 degrees $29
#67010 rear adjustment up to 2.75 for $99


and, do i need to do front and rear? or just one?

FRONTS
caster spec min/max: 0.50' to 2.00'
my LF: 0.63' before, 0.63' after
my RF: 0.77' before, 0.77' after

camber: -1.00' to 0.50'
my LF: -1.00' before, -0.27' after
my RF: -0.82' before, -0.39' after

toe: 0.04' to 0.14'
my LF: -0.94' before, 0.09' after
my RF: -0.91' before, 0.08' after

REARS
camber: -1.31' to 0.19'
my LR: -0.08' before, -0.16' after
my RR: -0.70' before, -0.82' after

toe: -0.13' to -0.03'
my LR: -0.08' before, -0.06' after
my RR: -0.50' before, -0.06 after

 

Those are the spec-prod camber kits, the Ingalls is 1 degree. Sorry.

Anybody know? I can't read these specs.

 

WTF is up with your rear camber? The left and right need to be somewhere close to one another. If they aren't then you could get some freaky handling. Personally I would have had them set them as closer to -1' on both the front and rear camber. The tires can wear faster, but just flip them from side to side every once and a while. Anybody care to guess how BMW gets great handling and ride? Check out the rear camber on anything from a 3 series to an X5, they all have around -2'

 

I've got no idea, after my springs were on, I got an alignment to fix toe, other tan that, I have no idea.

Can anybody help me, I can't read these numbers.

 

aren't those the exact same numbers you posted a month ago and we translated in great detail for you? look those up and come back.

 

those are the same numbers I posted up, I reviewed the post, all I could make out was that the camber WAS off.

I looked at the numbers, and it doesn't make sense to me, maybe I'm missing something, but for instance:

spec: camber: -1.00' to 0.50'
my LF: -1.00' before, -0.27' after

isn't -0.27' within -1 and 0.5? why would it wear the tires?
sorry if i've missed something.

 

if you have negative camber, that means the top of the tires are leaning in.. that means they don't sit completely perpendicular to the ground... that means they wear faster. that also means they handle slightly better.. most track cars are set up with 1-2-3 deg negative camber, depending on conditions. but they only have to make tires last a couple hundred miles at most.


your front specs are fine. don't worry about it. only thing I would worry about is the -.16 and -.82 on the back. they should be closer to the same number, whether it's -.82 or -.16. having them off- even by 0.5 can cause some weird handling.

but they're all well within spec. if you don't race the car, don't worry about it.

 

thanks for the clarification matt. let me ask you this, if i correct the camber to 0', will that mean they are perpendicular to the road?

i was looking at my old tires, and i noticed that there was a lot of wear on the insides of the tires. shouldn't my camber have been off when i dropped the car /w sprints? i'm also not sure HOW accurate that print out was from the comapny who did my alignment.

 

I also heard racers put in a certain amount of toe-out too for better turn in.

 

don't you guys ever sleep?

 

no (actually I'm tired as heck but waiting for a download to finish)

 

I'm supposedly studying for an electromagnetics exam in the morning. friggin 45 pages of notes and 20 pages of homework to condense into 6 pages of notes allowed for the exam. grrr


correcting camber to 0 will make the tires perpendicular to the road yes. but you won't like the way it handles. it'll be floaty, and won't "snap" when you turn the wheel. you'll feel the sidewall of the tires roll over, then the car starts turning.
the additional wear you'll get with those camber numbers is nothing compared to how fast you'll eat the outside of the tires if you drive hard on "0" camber. you'll wear them out in a matter of weeks. been there, done that.

 

what i think.. since you have sprint springs, even you use spec prod camber kits that correct up to +,- 1.75 camber, i dont think you will be able to get ur camber all the way to 0 (perpendicular to road)

im using the 1.75 bolts and i wasnt able to get it remotely close to zero camber.. even if you do you dont want zero camber handling sucks

 

I have spec prod front and rear. All of the specs are within the limits (with Sprints). And no more new tires every 6 months.