Bad Struts!
#1
Bad Struts!
I have a 93' SE and lowered with Intrax and stock struts. The stock struts are bad and i was wondering if continued to drive with the bad struts on could it cause any other problems on the car? I plan on getting KYB's next month but wanna know if something else could go bad.
#2
other than causing the car to bounce uncontrollably, no.
drawbacks to that are slamming your oil pan into the pavement if you hit a big bump, or in worst case, losing control of the car because it's bouncing all over the place.
as for other parts that could break because of worn struts, you don't have anything to worry about. just be really careful over speedbumps and other stuff like that for the time being.
drawbacks to that are slamming your oil pan into the pavement if you hit a big bump, or in worst case, losing control of the car because it's bouncing all over the place.
as for other parts that could break because of worn struts, you don't have anything to worry about. just be really careful over speedbumps and other stuff like that for the time being.
#5
First, keep in mind I've got every other suspension mod available for 3rd gens, so that plays a huge role here too.
The stage 2 pieces have been on a couple weeks now. Overall handling of the car between stage I and II didn't change a lot, BUT it was noticeable.
the biggest difference is in driveability- the car feels sooooo much better. the drive on the highway is about as smooth as stock- no more bouncy bouncy because of the stiff springs. Ride is
great.
cornering is still very impressive. corners that I could only take at 45 before, I can now hit the rev limiter in 2nd (about 70mph) on the same corner.
As far as what's different between stage I and II...
Stage I includes the bars that run beside the frame rails from fromt to back (connecting the front and rear subframes).
Stage II is an addition to the stage I. it's a large "6 spoked X" right in the middle. there's a thick piece of metal (1.75" I believe.. same as the long bars) that runs the width of the frame just
behind the cat, and has a metal plate welded in the middle. it bolts onto more metal brackets on the stage I rails.
Then from that metal plate in the middle (just behind the cat), there's an X going from there to each of the front and rear corners of the subframe bars.
Pipe diameter there is 1/2 or 3/4" or 1" I think. don't remember now.
Road noise is DRAMATICALLY less after I sprayed the whole thing (except what was near the exhaust) with rubberized undercoater. $5 and one hour very well spent. it's now quieter than my
car ever thought of baing in stock form (but I've also got 40lb of dynamat in it.)
the stage II is a bolt-on kit that you can do in your driveway after the install of the Stage I.
the stage I will require a drive-on lift for install, and MUST be welded to the frame. no wussy bolt people here. you've gotta weld. (and actually, welding it on makes it easier to return the car to
stock than if you'd drilled holes in the frame to bolt it on.)
Pictures are here:
http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pics/car/subframes
The stage 2 pieces have been on a couple weeks now. Overall handling of the car between stage I and II didn't change a lot, BUT it was noticeable.
the biggest difference is in driveability- the car feels sooooo much better. the drive on the highway is about as smooth as stock- no more bouncy bouncy because of the stiff springs. Ride is
great.
cornering is still very impressive. corners that I could only take at 45 before, I can now hit the rev limiter in 2nd (about 70mph) on the same corner.
As far as what's different between stage I and II...
Stage I includes the bars that run beside the frame rails from fromt to back (connecting the front and rear subframes).
Stage II is an addition to the stage I. it's a large "6 spoked X" right in the middle. there's a thick piece of metal (1.75" I believe.. same as the long bars) that runs the width of the frame just
behind the cat, and has a metal plate welded in the middle. it bolts onto more metal brackets on the stage I rails.
Then from that metal plate in the middle (just behind the cat), there's an X going from there to each of the front and rear corners of the subframe bars.
Pipe diameter there is 1/2 or 3/4" or 1" I think. don't remember now.
Road noise is DRAMATICALLY less after I sprayed the whole thing (except what was near the exhaust) with rubberized undercoater. $5 and one hour very well spent. it's now quieter than my
car ever thought of baing in stock form (but I've also got 40lb of dynamat in it.)
the stage II is a bolt-on kit that you can do in your driveway after the install of the Stage I.
the stage I will require a drive-on lift for install, and MUST be welded to the frame. no wussy bolt people here. you've gotta weld. (and actually, welding it on makes it easier to return the car to
stock than if you'd drilled holes in the frame to bolt it on.)
Pictures are here:
http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pics/car/subframes
#6
Re: Bad Struts!
Originally posted by nstymax93
I have a 93' SE and lowered with Intrax and stock struts. The stock struts are bad and i was wondering if continued to drive with the bad struts on could it cause any other problems on the car? I plan on getting KYB's next month but wanna know if something else could go bad.
I have a 93' SE and lowered with Intrax and stock struts. The stock struts are bad and i was wondering if continued to drive with the bad struts on could it cause any other problems on the car? I plan on getting KYB's next month but wanna know if something else could go bad.
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