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Grinding, whirring sound when trying to start my Max?

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Old 02-14-2002, 07:34 AM
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Grinding, whirring sound when trying to start my Max?

1992 SE 5 SP.
At first, a grinding, whirring sound happened when I tried to start it. Usually, after trying this once, it would start on the second start. Now, it is taking upwards of 5 times. I tried rolling the car in first gear to see if perhaps some of the teeth on the flywheel were shot, but it did nothing to help. I am thinking it is probably the starter. Any ideas? Also, I do not have a shop manual, but I would like to try to replace it myself (I will probably take it to a place like Schuck's to have it tested first-after I remove the starter, of course). Anyone know of any online resources (maps, etc.) for doing this? I will search the FAQs as well, but if you know offhand, I would appreciate it. Thanks friends.
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Old 02-14-2002, 08:55 AM
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Sounds like your starter's teeth are chewed up to me. This is an easy do-it-yourself job. The starter in towards the front of the car, attached to where the tranny bell housing meets the engine (obvisouly since that's where the flywheel is). If you stand in front of the car and look down, you should be able to see the cylindrical object sitting there in plain view.
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Old 02-14-2002, 09:14 AM
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Thanks for the info. I will yank it and bring it to my auto store. Does $155.- for a starter sound like too much? I am not in a hurry if there is a cheaper option...
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Old 02-14-2002, 11:14 AM
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I can't remember exactly what I paid for mine, but I think it was somewhere in that neighborhood. $155 sounds pretty good for a new starter, I doubt you'll be able to find it for a whole lot less. If you're really trying to save money, a search on www.car-part.com will give you plenty of used starters for 50-60 dollars though.
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Old 02-14-2002, 12:27 PM
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before you pull the starter, take it to a parts store and have them load test your battery. often the battery is worn out and can't provide the current to turn the starter, and it'll make a nasty grinding sound too...

they won't charge you to test the battery, and if that's not it, you can go home and pull the starter (takes about 5 minutes), and take the starter back and have it tested.
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Old 02-14-2002, 03:21 PM
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Well, the starter and battery tested fine. The next diagnosis would be the teeth on the flywheel. I got under the car and took a look and it appears fine. Although the bottom side of the flywheel teeth did appear to be curved-don't know if that's wear or normal. I would assume it is rare since the starter gear does engage and spin (I saw it do this on the testing machine). I was hoping to find some teeth missing, so that the flywheel hypothesis would be correct. I guess I will reinstall the starter, but the car in 3rd or 4th (or 5th) and roll the car a bit. Then try to start it. Any ideas?
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Old 02-14-2002, 08:59 PM
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I still say try a different battery. find a bigger one with more cranking amperage, and see how the car likes it.
My VE turns over REALLY slow on my battery and about 2 in 5 starts, it'll do that crap.

I pulled the brand new interestate battery out of my parents ES300 and dropped it in my car. WOW. turned over a LOT faster and started immediately. no nasty noises or anything.


How much current did they use to test your battery for starting? it needs to be able to put out at LEAST 400amps, absolute minimum. (OEM battery is rated at like 575 or so. After a couple years of use, this figure drops to about 500).
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Old 02-14-2002, 11:05 PM
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dont waste your time trying to figure out what is wrong with it because i would bet $ that the gear or what ever it is in the starter assembly is stripped out or the device that makes it so it can only turn one way is broken just spent the 150 or so dollars and get a re-built starter this happened to me and i had to drive my 76' celica for two weeks while i got different parts to try to fix it
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Old 02-15-2002, 06:08 PM
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Update. Bought the rebuilt starter ($145.- bones with a lifetime warranty) and installed it. Works like a charm. Thanks to all for the advice. I love this site.
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