block

I was thinking of using synthetic it just seems better.

whats this amsoil?

SilverBullet98

Castrol GTX 10W 30 !!

DDD

GTX5 Lightech 10W40 semi-synth (actually - hydrocracking) is optimal for its quality/price rate. I use it for 3 years.
Also I've heard from a skilled man that Castrol Magnatech synth 10W40 is wonderous (especially at engine start up moments).

DDD

JeffesonM

iTrader: (5)

10W 30? I think my manual tells me 5W 30, and its a 92SE. Do I need different oil, or does it matter?

DDD

a cold weather and 10W40 is for hot days. This is a simple but reliable scheme of using motor oils. Also use one brand name because oil additive sets from different brands may be not compatible.
It's all!
Good luck,
DDD

JeffesonM

iTrader: (5)

Cool, thanks. What do those numbers mean, anyways?

FAST4EN

The specific "weight" and "viscosity" of the oil....I use 5W-30 in the Winter and 10W-30 in the Summer. Castrol Syntec Full Synthetic ($4.50/quart), changed every 2500-3000 miles and I use a K&N Racing Oil Filter ($10 at an auto parts store) every time. I've been using this combination for about 2 or 3 years and I haven't had any problems.

flyry110

mobile 1 synthetic baby. the best money can buy. 10W-30 and a KnN oil filter

The Max

Remember, Australian conditions are higher temperature on average than the US, so don't complain to me about how thick this oil is!

Amsoil Series 2000 Racing Synthetic 20W50 with an Amsoil SDF84 filter (after performing a hot engine flush using Amsoil engine flush) rocks my world.

Tick Tock

I use Mobil-1 5W-30 and 0W-30 in Dec-Feb. K&N oil filter or Nissan.

See Link -->> http://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.html

Tick Tock

One more handy reference for you guys:

Lubricant reference >>> http://members.aol.com/sirmigs/lub.htm/

DDD

It seems 20W50 is to be too thick for Max. I live in the conditions when +40C is often in summertime and succesfully use 10W40 all seasons. Moreover, I do know that 20W50 are a low quality cheap oils and can kill modern high rpm engine in 3 months. Why do you use it?
DDD

The Max

I knew I was going to have to repeat myself 3#-)

Dude, Australian conditions are much harsher than you think. And when you consider that oil pressure falls to 10 PSI with a lesser weight oil (which is OK according to Nissan's specs), a 15 PSI reading just proves that we've got better flow without overworking the oil pump.

But bear in mind, this isn't with everyday casual driving in mind, this is everyday thrashing in mind. I'll use the nitrous maybe once a fortnight if not once a week, just to prove a point with some fellas who want to run me. The car gets redlined at least 5 times a day depending on the conditions. It gets a workout, and racing oils generally are of heavier weight. For my VG, with higher compression and regular abuse, the 20W50 has proven to be a better weight and the Amsoil has demonstrated better shear strength than any other oil I've used.

For you guys, 20W50 flows like thick honey out of the bottle, whereas here in Australia, it flows out of the bottle just like your 10W40 does for you.

DDD

Actually a very specific conditions - generally your driving style.
But how have you measured the shear rate figures of the Amsoil oil? Or it is a theory?

Regards,
DDD

P.S. Surely your photo is the most impressive one on the Forum. Well done!

FitzMax

Mobil-1 5W-30 with the Mobile-1 filter. Thats my set up.

The Max

Why thank you 3#-)

Just got the results of my oil analysis today actually.

Turns out I've got a solubility factor of 90% (which is practically perfect ... it's a measurement of how much crud in terms of combustible by-products like carbon etc has actually dissolved into the oil leaving it virtually unaffected), discolouration of 4 (5 is the norm) which could be better after performing some more engine flushes/oil changes, and viscosity consistency of 95% (i.e. It practically hasn't changed!!).

From this analysis, it was concluded that the everyday driving, thrashing and occasional use of nitrous makes this oil selection a perfect one and that I can extend my oil change interval from 5000km to 8000km. Very good by my standards.

As for how I worked out the shear strength, I wouldn't know in a figure, but I do look at the different oil pressures I experience. If you look closely in the photo, I've got 2 gauges (actually, 3 now that I've added the transmission temperature gauge for my Level 10 box). One is for fuel pressure (when using nitrous) and the other is for oil pressure. Both are mechanical gauges for instant readings. I observe the PSI from that gauge.

89GXE

I use only Nissan Filters and Valvoline 10-30
and change every 2500-3000 miles. There is no greater
protection than regular oil changes despite what
synthetics claim.

Your friendly Nissan tech

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

You have some data to back that claim up?? And don't say xxx years of experience(I've heard that too many times). I'm truely not trying to be rude but this subject has been discussed to death(do a search)so much that such generic statements just don't hold weight anymore.

89GXE

If you remove the dirty worn out oil at proper intervals
there is not greater protection. I have seen people who
bought in to the synthetics claim of extended oil change
intervals and burn up motors. Case in point a guy buys a
96 Max brand new from our dealership we don't see him
until 20,000 mi with a ticking motor, turns out he did
change his oil as soon as he bought it and put I think
mobil 1 in it and did not change again for 10,000 mi!
He wondered why Nissan did not warranty his motor.
Dumbass! My Max has 177,600 on it and the one previous
owner used Val 10-30 and changed every 3,000 and the motor
runs extremely strong and makes no noises and I know of
several people with similar stories of using high quality
conventional oils and changing every 3000 mi and getting
long life out of engines. You might make the argument
that you could change a synthetic every 3000 and get
better protection but Ihave not seen evidence of this
and the cost is prohibitive for many people. From my
experience the greatest enemy is not the oil used but
it is the fact that many people forget or they under-
estimate the value of regular oil changes. IT IS VERY
IMPORTANT!!!! So I view it as bang for the buck, no
greater bang why spend the bucks?

Tick Tock

89GXE - I agree with your comments to a point. I agree the most important thing is to change oil and filter every 3K.

However, the comparison you draw is accurate but not fair. Pure synthetics are marginally better particularly under extreme conditions. If you could simply wave a magic wand and run Mobil 1 or Valvoline, still changing every 3K. Which would you choose? (i.e., if price were equal)

I chose to run Mobil 1 for the slight advantage and much easier starts running 0W-30 in my winter climate. In those -20 to -30 mornings - I do notice a difference.

On filters, I had been running the Nissan filters and still do in a pinch but have found the nut on the end and nice stiff can on the K&N filters to be really nice.

My final 2 cents - do what works, what you can afford and whatever yields the best results. I've run dino in most cars/trucks and synthetic in some.

By the way, have you ever cut apart a Nissan filter? I've always been curious how well they are constructed.

That's for all your "pro" perspective too - I for (at least) one on this board appreciate your contributions!
Thanks.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

That example is not valid at all.

1) He used mobil 1, which is not designed for extended oil changes.
2) Even w/ extended oil change programs, you must still change the filter.
3)This is only one example. I know many people who change their oil every 35K but use oil analysis and do change the filter regularly. But I would only do this on a really new car that's just out of 5-10k mileage period.

Why spend the bucks? Becuase it's actually more expensive to do it your way and Amsoil synthetics have higher flash, less ash, and much higher film strength.

block

I just put mobil 1 in my 89 max and it felt good. Im glad I used it. im going to change it in 3k miles. I could care less about the extra 2.00 a quart

The Max

What you have there is clearly an isolated incident.

Basically, Mobil 1 was not made for extended change periods, but rather just a higher performance oil in the same duration.

Amsoil on the other hand is what synthetics were designed for ... greater longevity, higher strength and less deposits, all in one fluid.

Now in my case, the vehicle does get a hell of a thrashing about, and so my intervals have only extended from 5000km to 8000kms. That's almost a 2000 mile difference. Yes, there are situations where people can extend their intervals to 35000km, but that can only be really concluded upon after a detailed analysis of a hot oil sample! If people blindly believe they'll get instant extended results, then they're wrong. But if they take the time, like me, and continue to drain every 5000km and have an oil sample from that duration analysed to come to the correct conclusion, then there is no reason why a motor should suffer from it.

Other than that, yeah many mechanics have argued that mineral oils are best for everyday vehicles and synthetics should be saved for the track, but then again, many mechanics argue otherwise.

Which is why I'm not out to change people from what they're currently using. If they're happy with it, I say fine. If they decide to change to synthetic and ask me about what oil to use and the pros/cons of it, then I'll gladly answer their questions (with Amsoil only, of course <grin>).

And the only reason why I'd recommend it is because I use it and have experienced a better change. The engine revs more freely than ever on a cold start, the amount of crap left in the oil when I change it is little meaning that friction has been greatly reduced compared to the mineral oils I've tried in the past, the engine feels smoother (and even those who aren't mechanic-savvy have mentioned the same). I've noticed the greater strength in the oil in terms of a higher PSI (5 PSI to be exact) read on my oil pressure gauge when it's fully warmed up. To me, that's a clear indication of an oil doing a better job than its predecessors.

Compared to most Max drivers out in the US, I must admit my motor only has about 85000 miles on it, so it's a baby compared to what you guys have been doing 3#-). But nevertheless, in such a short span of time, a motor that has been pulling 210FWHP since the 45000 mile mark and still idling like it was on new bearings (from what some mechanics have asked me <grin>) is a vote of confidence that not only is the motor a tough and reliable one (after some ******** former mechanic of mine bent 3 valves in the rear bank doing my timing belt!) but one that has been well looked after thanks to the oil I chose to use, and still do.

So as much as I don't want to burst your bubble, you are wrong (to me) as I am wrong to you. We'll just have to agree to disagree, but I figured I'd have to put forth my argument.