Does the S/T rear Sway bar go on the max axcactly like the stock one?
03-29-2002, 08:39 PM
#2
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 56
Nope. Nothing like it. You use two plates that get bolted onto the strut. Seems quite strong and an excellent design. One problem though. I just broke the stock bracket that is welded to the frame....it's one of the "hangers" for the bar. You use the stock pieces there except for the rubber is replaced with urethane(?) from the kit. I wanted to weld a metal piece on it, but ended up just using a couple big washers and torqued it really good. That held through some tough driving today. It broke the other day from the hard U-turns I sometimes make. Guess I will take them a little lighter from now on. I don't think it's S/Ts fault. I think it would have happened with any of the kits if they use the stock brakets. Maybe should take it to a shop and get them to beef up the brakets. I'll see if it happens again.
Gene
Gene
03-29-2002, 09:18 PM
#3
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: CT
Posts: 3,085
OK I did go out side and figure it oue but it was getting dark and the bolt at the bottom of the strut were not budging. So tommorrow I will get some WD40 and take pics and do a write up. I also think the front sway was easy and does make a differance
03-31-2002, 04:37 PM
#5
Get that sway bar figured out?
there's a few pics on my website if you need them..
http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pic...car/sway_bars/
there's a few pics on my website if you need them..
http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pic...car/sway_bars/
03-31-2002, 06:42 PM
#6
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: CT
Posts: 3,085
Originally posted by Matt93SE
Get that sway bar figured out?
there's a few pics on my website if you need them..
http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pic...car/sway_bars/
Get that sway bar figured out?
there's a few pics on my website if you need them..
http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pic...car/sway_bars/
03-31-2002, 07:17 PM
#7
those bolts on the rear strut were a PIA to break loose, but I did them with regular hand tools and some penetrating fluid...
just spray them with liquid wrench or something and let them soak for an hour or so before you start tweaking on them.
(FYI, don't even think of using 3/8" drive tools on those. 1/2" minimum. If you don't have any, this is a good reason to spend $35 on a good set of 1/2" drive metric impact sockets.).
The rsb_mount_1.jpg pic showed where it ripped the eye hole out of the mount on the frame.. this is a very common problem with any aftermarket sway bar. (addco and ST bars both tear these loose).
best way to keep this from happening is to make sure the bushings on the sway bar are bolted on while they are as close to directly below the brackets as possible (left-to-right wise. the ST bar sits a little bit back from them, so they'll tilt back..) pivoting front/back on them is no problem, as they'll twise around the bar. twisting left/right with them will snap them into pieces though... thus that's the reason it's important to get them on straight- so they're not stressed when you're driving down the road.
just spray them with liquid wrench or something and let them soak for an hour or so before you start tweaking on them.
(FYI, don't even think of using 3/8" drive tools on those. 1/2" minimum. If you don't have any, this is a good reason to spend $35 on a good set of 1/2" drive metric impact sockets.).
The rsb_mount_1.jpg pic showed where it ripped the eye hole out of the mount on the frame.. this is a very common problem with any aftermarket sway bar. (addco and ST bars both tear these loose).
best way to keep this from happening is to make sure the bushings on the sway bar are bolted on while they are as close to directly below the brackets as possible (left-to-right wise. the ST bar sits a little bit back from them, so they'll tilt back..) pivoting front/back on them is no problem, as they'll twise around the bar. twisting left/right with them will snap them into pieces though... thus that's the reason it's important to get them on straight- so they're not stressed when you're driving down the road.
03-31-2002, 07:28 PM
#8
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: CT
Posts: 3,085
Originally posted by Matt93SE
those bolts on the rear strut were a PIA to break loose, but I did them with regular hand tools and some penetrating fluid...
just spray them with liquid wrench or something and let them soak for an hour or so before you start tweaking on them.
(FYI, don't even think of using 3/8" drive tools on those. 1/2" minimum. If you don't have any, this is a good reason to spend $35 on a good set of 1/2" drive metric impact sockets.).
The rsb_mount_1.jpg pic showed where it ripped the eye hole out of the mount on the frame.. this is a very common problem with any aftermarket sway bar. (addco and ST bars both tear these loose).
best way to keep this from happening is to make sure the bushings on the sway bar are bolted on while they are as close to directly below the brackets as possible (left-to-right wise. the ST bar sits a little bit back from them, so they'll tilt back..) pivoting front/back on them is no problem, as they'll twise around the bar. twisting left/right with them will snap them into pieces though... thus that's the reason it's important to get them on straight- so they're not stressed when you're driving down the road.
those bolts on the rear strut were a PIA to break loose, but I did them with regular hand tools and some penetrating fluid...
just spray them with liquid wrench or something and let them soak for an hour or so before you start tweaking on them.
(FYI, don't even think of using 3/8" drive tools on those. 1/2" minimum. If you don't have any, this is a good reason to spend $35 on a good set of 1/2" drive metric impact sockets.).
The rsb_mount_1.jpg pic showed where it ripped the eye hole out of the mount on the frame.. this is a very common problem with any aftermarket sway bar. (addco and ST bars both tear these loose).
best way to keep this from happening is to make sure the bushings on the sway bar are bolted on while they are as close to directly below the brackets as possible (left-to-right wise. the ST bar sits a little bit back from them, so they'll tilt back..) pivoting front/back on them is no problem, as they'll twise around the bar. twisting left/right with them will snap them into pieces though... thus that's the reason it's important to get them on straight- so they're not stressed when you're driving down the road.
03-31-2002, 07:39 PM
#9
the new bushings (red ones in the pic) come in the ST sway bar kit. they're the best ones available..
the end links won't do much good to replace, as the stock ones can be easily (and cheaply) re-welded when ever they break. takes about 45 minutes to remove, weld, and replace.
I DO recommend reinforcing the eye holes though. what I did was take a piece of angle iron and cut it to fit inside the OEM bracket, then drill a hole to mount the endlink.. attach it to the frame through welding it or self-drilling/tapping screws, and you're done and shouldn't have to worry about that part again.
the end links won't do much good to replace, as the stock ones can be easily (and cheaply) re-welded when ever they break. takes about 45 minutes to remove, weld, and replace.
I DO recommend reinforcing the eye holes though. what I did was take a piece of angle iron and cut it to fit inside the OEM bracket, then drill a hole to mount the endlink.. attach it to the frame through welding it or self-drilling/tapping screws, and you're done and shouldn't have to worry about that part again.
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