89-92 Max SE... what will it be?
#1
89-92 Max SE... what will it be?
Alright, I am kinda getting iffy about what I would like to get. I have really been looking around a lot for a 1992 Maxima SE (definately gonna get a 5spd) but now I am just noticing a lot of talk and complaints about the VTC's in em.
I want to know whether it would be a better investment to go with the earlier 3rd gen models i.e. the 89-91 SE's rather than 92-94? I am looking for a car that will last for a good long while (seeing as how it will be my first, and I don't want to put all of my hard earned money into some piece of $hit that will just break down after I put a little mileage on it.)
Also I am faced with the delema of performance between the VG and the VE. What do you guys think I should do, go with the VE and maybe have to fork out some cash later on for the VTC, or go with the somewhat more reliable VG engine? (By the way, whatever I get will end up being an SE)
I want to know whether it would be a better investment to go with the earlier 3rd gen models i.e. the 89-91 SE's rather than 92-94? I am looking for a car that will last for a good long while (seeing as how it will be my first, and I don't want to put all of my hard earned money into some piece of $hit that will just break down after I put a little mileage on it.)
Also I am faced with the delema of performance between the VG and the VE. What do you guys think I should do, go with the VE and maybe have to fork out some cash later on for the VTC, or go with the somewhat more reliable VG engine? (By the way, whatever I get will end up being an SE)
#2
Re: 89-92 Max SE... what will it be?
you just have to face the music...you're buying a used car..things WILL go wrong!!!! on the VE you have the VTCs that might go bad($$$$) while on the VG you have the exhaust studs that might go bad($6-800) both problems don't horribly rob peroformance, but they are audible problems so you'll know they are there (kinda a psychological thing ) but anyways...in the long run VTCs cost more than exhaust studs and and the VTC job is not your average DIY fix(neither are the studs, but they are manageable with some patience)...so if you are that worried and need piece of mind get a 89-91 5spd!
#4
Originally posted by Brandon90gxe
and i think with failed vtc's its still faster then a vg. i dont know that for sure.
and i think with failed vtc's its still faster then a vg. i dont know that for sure.
....so I guess VE auto w/ failed VTCs = premium running VG auto
#5
This is a tough dilemma, and one I had to contend with too. It depends on your priorities and what you're willing to put up with.
I'm pretty sure that the exhaust studs can break on both VE and VG engines, so the VG is prone to break 1 less thing (VTCs) than the VE. VTC fixes run about $2500 if I recall right. On the other hand, you have to change the timing belt on a VG after a long while too.
I think if you happen to find a VE car with WORKING VTCs (like mine ) grab it (well duh!). You can also always test drive a VG car and decide if it's fast enough to suit your driving style, which it may be since the VG pulls harder at low-RPM than the VE does. Some say it loses it's breath at high-RPM though - you decide (DOHC 24valve vs. SOHC 12valve - different breathing priorities). BTW, the VE has a LSD if that matters to you.
Personally I was willing to PAY for the VTC repair if (knock on wood) they go bad, so I decided I wanted ONLY a VE. Basically I bought for pure performance (and some ego I admit) and let reliability take a back seat in my pocket book. Took a while, but I found one. Enough power down low for "normal" driving (I usually drive in the city under 2500rpm) but the power reserve is there in spades for when you need it. I'm very happy with my car, but to be fair I have not driven a VG to compare.
No matter what you decide on, the shape the rest of the car is in is arguably the most important thing since if they're worn or have been neglected they could end up being very costly in time as well as money.
Hope this helped, good luck!
I'm pretty sure that the exhaust studs can break on both VE and VG engines, so the VG is prone to break 1 less thing (VTCs) than the VE. VTC fixes run about $2500 if I recall right. On the other hand, you have to change the timing belt on a VG after a long while too.
I think if you happen to find a VE car with WORKING VTCs (like mine ) grab it (well duh!). You can also always test drive a VG car and decide if it's fast enough to suit your driving style, which it may be since the VG pulls harder at low-RPM than the VE does. Some say it loses it's breath at high-RPM though - you decide (DOHC 24valve vs. SOHC 12valve - different breathing priorities). BTW, the VE has a LSD if that matters to you.
Personally I was willing to PAY for the VTC repair if (knock on wood) they go bad, so I decided I wanted ONLY a VE. Basically I bought for pure performance (and some ego I admit) and let reliability take a back seat in my pocket book. Took a while, but I found one. Enough power down low for "normal" driving (I usually drive in the city under 2500rpm) but the power reserve is there in spades for when you need it. I'm very happy with my car, but to be fair I have not driven a VG to compare.
No matter what you decide on, the shape the rest of the car is in is arguably the most important thing since if they're worn or have been neglected they could end up being very costly in time as well as money.
Hope this helped, good luck!
#8
Originally posted by DA-MAX
I wish I knew!!! cuase if I did I'd damn sure be running mid/high 15's with the mods I have right now!!!
I wish I knew!!! cuase if I did I'd damn sure be running mid/high 15's with the mods I have right now!!!
#10
VE ALL THE WAY
you should definately go with the 92 se b/c of the ve. the power is well worth it. i have one and mine had the exhaust stud problem(it cost me around 200 for a repair). just recently the vtc have started ticking though... but nothing that is really that noticable.
#11
buy the vg, get the intake, ypipe, advance timing and the udp and you'll run with the ve and you'll probably save money because ve's are very expensive compared to a 89 vg. I got my 89 5sp vg with 124k for 2,200. The combonation of those mods i listed will cost about 600 so thats a low 15 car for 2,800, plus you dont have to worry about the vtc's. I haven't seen a ve 5sp with good miles and condition for less than 4000. vg power.
#12
Originally posted by nardo'89SE
The combonation of those mods i listed will cost about 600 so thats a low 15 car for 2,800
The combonation of those mods i listed will cost about 600 so thats a low 15 car for 2,800
#14
Originally posted by DA-MAX
Hmmmm, show me proof of a VG 5spd running low 15's with those mods....never seen or heard of that occuring maybe high 15's!
Hmmmm, show me proof of a VG 5spd running low 15's with those mods....never seen or heard of that occuring maybe high 15's!
#15
Originally posted by nardo'89SE
but it easy to get high 15's with a intake and ypipe and the udp and timing
but it easy to get high 15's with a intake and ypipe and the udp and timing
#16
sorry for the newbie question, but what benefits does the ignition upgrade offer without large amounts of hp being added on?
also one day i will run a 15.6xx with y, intake, udp and timing, and it will be a great day for the vg 5sp.
also one day i will run a 15.6xx with y, intake, udp and timing, and it will be a great day for the vg 5sp.
#17
Originally posted by nardo'89SE
sorry for the newbie question, but what benefits does the ignition upgrade offer without large amounts of hp being added on?
sorry for the newbie question, but what benefits does the ignition upgrade offer without large amounts of hp being added on?
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