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Brake problem- no preseure

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Old 04-22-2002, 11:30 PM
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Brake problem- no preseure

Ok im no expert on brakes so im not sure what is wrong. I have put new metalmaster pads all around except driver side rear cause the bracket is rusted in one position, so that stays like that till i get another. I bleed the brakes and got all the air out with my dad. But i have no pressure in the pedal. Ill press it down and nothing really happens i have to pump it 2 or 3 times to get a normal response. Also the front pass side smells alittle and both front brakes get real hot after i drive. Anyone no whats wrong or somthin i didnt do right???
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Old 04-22-2002, 11:36 PM
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are you sure you didn't get any contamination into the brake system when you were flushing it. even a little bit of moisture can make your brakes turn to mush. other then that, the other common problem would be a low fluid level or incorrect fluid, but that's a pretty novice error that I doubt you made.
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Old 04-22-2002, 11:49 PM
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Yea fluid is fine, i searched and found that maybe the caliphers are hung up and need to be greased and all that, which would produce the heat im finding. Not sure if that effects pressure though, maybe. Whats involed in cleaning up the caliphers?
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Old 04-23-2002, 05:31 PM
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I went through and clean everything made sure connections were tight, and things are moving properly, then bleed the system again. Still have to pump a few times to get pressure. Anyone want to take a stab at it???
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Old 04-23-2002, 10:31 PM
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Originally posted by Booner8269
I went through and clean everything made sure connections were tight, and things are moving properly, then bleed the system again. Still have to pump a few times to get pressure. Anyone want to take a stab at it???
yeppers...this is normal. in my chilton's book it specifically says to "apply the brakes a few times to seat the pads." This of course comes after replacing pads or removing the caliper, etc and makes good sense because u have to push in the caliper piston in order to get it back on; pumping the brakes gets the piston back out to where its supposed to b
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Old 04-23-2002, 10:51 PM
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Sounds like master cylinder may be going bad to me. I had to replace one on a 89 max with about 220K on it and that was a first and last for me. Are the front brakes squeaking alot when they get hot. You may also have a stuck caliper which is an easy fix.
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Old 04-24-2002, 06:16 AM
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No noises! Im thinking maybe its a calipher, but how do i know for sure and fix it. Im going to bleed the brakes again for the 3rd time but i dont think it will help.
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Old 04-24-2002, 06:39 AM
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low pedal/sinking pedal/lack of pressure-
it almost all points to air in the system. how are u bleeding the brakes? are you sure you're doing this correctly? can you tell me how are u doing them? which wheel you start off 1st and etc? are you sure you don't have a leak somewhere?

frozen caliper-
normally when your caliper siezes and it's "frozen" your caliper drags on the rotor. it does not release when you let off the pedal. signs of frozen caliper:
-rotor turning blue
-car pulling to one direction during braking
-longer distance needed to stop
-rotor overheating (warping/gouges on surface)
-pad wears unevenly..(one wheel brakes are done and the wheel is brand new)

doing a brake job correctly-
the 3rd gens have floating calipers. what does that mean? when brake pressure is applied the caliper moves with the force of the piston to apply brakes. the caliper rides on the sliding pins. the pins are the ones w/ the rubber boot around them..they move in and out. these should be cleaned and greased w/ a high temp grease every time the brakes are serviced.

master cyl-
sometimes the master cyl will fail. the seals inside will wear out and do funky stuff w/ your brakes. if it's leaking then you'll experience the low pedal or the need to pump the brakes to build pressure. normally when it does fail you'll notice a external leak...but it can fail internally also and give u poor brake pressure.

weak pedal right after installation-
this is normal...you did push the piston back..1st time you get in the car pump the brakes a few times to seat them and do the correct break in procedure afterwards.
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Old 04-26-2002, 07:03 AM
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I ended up bringing it in and paying $30 for them to fix it. Well i bleed them going driver side rear, pass front, i think pass rear then driver front, i just followed my chiltons manual. The guy at the shop said i was supposed to do it back of the car to front, the farthest from the master cylinder. And i did have a hung up calipher, some of my rotors are warped to. So ill replace them sometime this summer with some afternmarket ones, there not that bad the guy said. Thanks for all the input. Now i can drive with me new suspension i love it!
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Old 04-26-2002, 09:21 AM
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Re: Brake problem- no preseure

Originally posted by Booner8269
Also the front pass side smells alittle and both front brakes get real hot after i drive.

Your kidding right? That's like saying "I grabbed my exhaust right after driving for an hour and burned my hand. Is there something wrong with my car?"

There's this little thing we call friction. It's how your brakes work, it creates just a little heat.
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Old 04-26-2002, 09:32 AM
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Your kidding right? That's like saying "I grabbed my exhaust right after driving for an hour and burned my hand. Is there something wrong with my car?"
Duh i know brakes causes friction and heat, but this was abnormal heat. I couldnt even hold a lug nut in my hand after driving for 10 min.
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Old 04-27-2002, 07:34 PM
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Originally posted by Booner8269

Duh i know brakes causes friction and heat, but this was abnormal heat. I couldnt even hold a lug nut in my hand after driving for 10 min.
Sorry, i just couldn't resist

What kind of driving was it? Stop and go or highway? It only takes a few quick stops to build up alot of heat, most brake pads have an operating temp of above 400 degrees. The wheel and the lugs will get hot since they act as a big heat sink for the rotor.
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