What is the best way and rpm to launch my auto gxe, 3rd gen of course without damaging my tranny

 

without hurting the tranny, just push the gas as far as she'll go


i would brake TQ a LITTLE!!!! not alot, just just put a lil pressure on the tranny before you let off the gas. . . . but the only way to make sure you dont' hurt your tranny is to just stay off it till you hit it.

 

1-1.2k rpms, "seems" safest....either way I you get the same results by simply flash stalling! from my experience torque braking just spins the tires and raises 60ft times, flash stall is what got me down into the 2.36's on already balding tires!

 

What's flash stalling? I've never heard that term before!

 

left foot holds down the brake, right foot is placed over/rests on the gas but doesn't press down....on the second yellow, quickly lift left foot off brake and SLAM right on gas and hold!

 

and if you're a VG, keep holding, and holding and holding and holding and holding and hol. . . . . .

 

How is that any different from having fast reflexes and just going from brake to gas?

 

there much more room for error in going brake to acc. 1. lift right foot, 2. move foot right, 3. stomp gas...also figure in the chance you might miss the pedal, get the worng positioning on the pedal or get the sole of your foot caught on the edge of the acc. pedal.

"flash stall" method 1. lift left foot off brake, 2. stomp gas with right...much easier in my eyes no chances of error since right foot is already resting on the acc..

 

...and praying and praying and praying and praying and praying

 

BTW, I think the flash stall method somehow uses the inertia gained by releasing the brakes and the TC jumps in RPM a bit.... I think. Read something about it like 10 years ago but it confused me even then.

 

just like DA-MAX said flash stalling is the best. The only thing is that I don't think the automagics have enough torque multiplication or stall speed to get sub 2.2 60fts. I'm sure a convertor + small tires would net consistant 2.1-2.2 short times. Which would drop ET by at least 2-4 tenths with no other mods.

 

2.43's here on almost bald tires and a completely stock car. I torque braked when I saw the first yellow, then flash stalled when I saw the second yellow. It works pretty well.

 

muahahahaha!!!!!

 

well one advantage to launching the VE hard is to make the tires squeal and drown out that annoying "tick, tick, tick"...

MUAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.....ya'll know I won't let the VG get played like this, come on now!!! D

 

And his car is still broke down , check your PMs adidas, we need to coordinate.
Later

 

and with that tick tick you will still lose!!!!

 

Lemme try to explain the advantage of flash stalling. Ever go to the drags and watch some old school muscle car automatics run the quarter mile? Ever wonder why they rev their engine at the start line and hold it at what seems to be a high RPM? Ever wonder why you can't do that on your car? Well, the key to those muscle cars with automatic transmissions is their torque converter, which has a stall speed. A torque converter is like a bungee cord. When you step on the gas, the cord stretches and then the car goes. This stretching period is the time it takes the torque converter to reach its stall speed. I'm sure the stall speed on our torque converters is pretty low as compared to the 4000 RPM race only torque converters, but there still is a hesitation between when you step on the gas and when your trasmissions starts transferring all of the power it can to the ground. To avoid any hesitation, you can simply hold the engine at around 2000 RPM's when the first yellow light comes on (of course braking with your left foot) and when you see the second light, mash the gas pedal to the floor and release the brake at the same time. Don't hold the engine at 2000 RPM's and hold the brake for too long, because this creates a lot of heat and wear and tear on the transmission, engine, et cetera. If you have any questions about this post them up and I'll do my best to answer them.