Relocating the battery???
12-01-2000, 08:53 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 368
Anybody ever think of relocating the battery in a 3rd gen to the trunk??? This would help a little bit with weight distribution since the car is front heavy, would open up a nice space up front for intake mods, and would also shorten the distance for power to travel from the battery to the amp if you are running subs giving a little more power. Just curious if any one has considered this and/or tried it???
12-02-2000, 12:14 AM
#3
a few things..
1. yes you can do it.. Nismo did it on his 87SE. the kits are about $50 I think.. not too difficult to install.
2. yes, it's great for moving an effective 80lb of weight (-40lb on the front, +40lb on the back), but moving only 80 lbs wont' make that much of a difference in handling.. it's great if you need the room.
to prove my point, take a look at this month's SCC magazine.. they did some track tests on an eclipse where they dumped a number of 50lb sandbags in the back of the car, then did some track testing.. the first two bags (100lb) didn't make much difference, if any.
3. If you're running high power stereo stuff, you'd be better off with a battery up front and one in the back. having a battery in the back forces the alternator to deliver ALL the current through a 20 ftg section of where, from where the battery used to be, all the way up to the new location of the battery, THEN to the amps.
This in effect puts more strain on the alternator and battery, simply because of the voltage drop in 20 ft of 4 awg wire.
Personally, I'm neither for nor against it. there are pros and cons to each, and it just depends on what your needs/wants are on the car.
1. yes you can do it.. Nismo did it on his 87SE. the kits are about $50 I think.. not too difficult to install.
2. yes, it's great for moving an effective 80lb of weight (-40lb on the front, +40lb on the back), but moving only 80 lbs wont' make that much of a difference in handling.. it's great if you need the room.
to prove my point, take a look at this month's SCC magazine.. they did some track tests on an eclipse where they dumped a number of 50lb sandbags in the back of the car, then did some track testing.. the first two bags (100lb) didn't make much difference, if any.
3. If you're running high power stereo stuff, you'd be better off with a battery up front and one in the back. having a battery in the back forces the alternator to deliver ALL the current through a 20 ftg section of where, from where the battery used to be, all the way up to the new location of the battery, THEN to the amps.
This in effect puts more strain on the alternator and battery, simply because of the voltage drop in 20 ft of 4 awg wire.
Personally, I'm neither for nor against it. there are pros and cons to each, and it just depends on what your needs/wants are on the car.
12-02-2000, 12:36 AM
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 368
Hey, thanks for the info Matt. I was just curious and was wondering how difficult it would be. Someone mentioned it in another post and I was wondering if anyone had tried it. Thanks again! Now I am going to sleep.
12-02-2000, 12:44 AM
#5
It's about as difficult as installing an amp in the trunk..
basically all you do is ground the battery back there, and run a piece of 4 awg wire form your battery terminals up front to your battery in the back.
you also have to make mounting tray for the battery, and provide a way to vent it under the car just in case it leaks. (if you do any audio competition, you'll also have to vent the batteries whether they're sealed or not.)
basically all you do is ground the battery back there, and run a piece of 4 awg wire form your battery terminals up front to your battery in the back.
you also have to make mounting tray for the battery, and provide a way to vent it under the car just in case it leaks. (if you do any audio competition, you'll also have to vent the batteries whether they're sealed or not.)
12-02-2000, 11:55 AM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 648
I did put my battery in my trunk for about a week or so. At first it seemed fine but it seemed that the extra cable that was used to relocate the battery was not good on the alternator. The alternator had trouble keeping the battery charged. After a couple of days of driving the battery went completely dead. I just relocated to the front and everything was fine. Somehow you need to find a way to relocate the battery and still keep its charge the same.
92GXE, touring wing, 18” racing wheels, Port&Polished intake, custom intake, custom yellow interior, racing seats, back seats taken out and replaced with subs and amps, NOS kit, Suspension tech. Lowering springs, custom grille, soon to be custom painted and have the whole engine rebuilt for big shot NOS and custom SC and tranny converted to 5-speed.
92GXE, touring wing, 18” racing wheels, Port&Polished intake, custom intake, custom yellow interior, racing seats, back seats taken out and replaced with subs and amps, NOS kit, Suspension tech. Lowering springs, custom grille, soon to be custom painted and have the whole engine rebuilt for big shot NOS and custom SC and tranny converted to 5-speed.
12-02-2000, 02:44 PM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 164
I wouldn't bother - a bit like fixing weight distribution by keeping your gas tank full. However, if I did it...
Spring for the right parts for case and hold downs.
Also, I would use at least #4 wire and probably #2 or #0 for that long an extension. Use good cable spec'd for this application. Either automotive or go to a welding supply shop. Nice flexible cable is usually readily available there and they have the lugs, crimpers, etc. Or have them customer made - some sources below. The cable size or poor connection may have been the alternator related problem mentioned in the earlier reply.
Some sources I've found useful:
http://www.wranglernw.com
http://www.painlesswiring.com
http://www.optimabatteries.com
Good time to spring for that Optima - no leak issues and can be mounted in any position.
Let us know how it comes out.
Spring for the right parts for case and hold downs.
Also, I would use at least #4 wire and probably #2 or #0 for that long an extension. Use good cable spec'd for this application. Either automotive or go to a welding supply shop. Nice flexible cable is usually readily available there and they have the lugs, crimpers, etc. Or have them customer made - some sources below. The cable size or poor connection may have been the alternator related problem mentioned in the earlier reply.
Some sources I've found useful:
http://www.wranglernw.com
http://www.painlesswiring.com
http://www.optimabatteries.com
Good time to spring for that Optima - no leak issues and can be mounted in any position.
Let us know how it comes out.
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